E30 from Ukraine - "Shadow of Intelligence"

[The_Glory]

Just read through this whole thread. Awesome work on this considering your situation, the attention to detail is great! The rear trunk relocation for the battery you provided is pretty useful to as I'll be doing the same in the near future.

Thank you.
I'm glad you found it interesting and useful.
By the way, next time I will probably write in detail about battery mounting and trunk linings for it.

[The_Glory]

Lately, because of the damned Muscovites, I have been dealing with urgent household chores - alternative and autonomous lighting, power supply and heating. It took quite a lot of time and money, so again the progress on the assembly is not significant at all. Mainly also on electricity.

Assembly_30. ETK_61_Battery

Next, we continue the ETK_61 section Общее е/оборудование автомобиль

The following subsection BMW battery. with electrolyte


According to ETK, 65Ah batteries were installed on the 325i, but I had 70Ah. My battery completely died after several years of idleness in the garage. Tried to charge it, but to no avail. So just a photo for a picture :)


Now, because of these blackouts, is not the best time to buy a battery or generator - the prices are inadequate. Maybe a little later I will buy a new one. I haven't decided yet - whether it's an original BMW or just an Exide that comes in the original.

In addition to the battery itself, there should also be its fastening. I didn't have it before, and the battery was just lying at the bottom of the right trunk compartment. Of course, I have now fixed it and installed all the necessary parts.

Battery


Parts Blogs and #10 come with the new battery, so they are not in the photo yet. Parts #8, Albums and plastic spacer #11 are fasteners used only when installing the battery under the hood. Part #13, apparently, is not used at all on the E30.

So, the mounting kit includes tank #4, gas discharge hose #5, hose fitting #12, pallet Special and bolt with plate Visitor Messages


There are nuances in some details.
Tank No. 4 for before restyling and after restyling is different. By 87 (61 21 1 374 963) it is much smaller, but it is no longer available for ordering. After year 87 (61 21 1 376 693), the tank is larger and serves as an additional support for the pallet. In addition, it is easier to find, and it fits normally on pre-restyling cars, so I don't see the point in looking for tanks specifically for pre-restyling.


In the photo, you can see another piece of white foam - it is not by chance ;) But according to ETK, it is in another section, so I will write about it there. In short, it is also an additional support for the pallet. Although it looks like a "collective farm", this is a factory solution to a problem that was probably not taken into account right away. :) Although, I'm not 100% sure about this, but I can't imagine any other use for it... If someone has it left from the factory and it's somehow misplaced, or in the wrong place - please correct me.


But this is what the problem itself looks like - without this support, the mounting eye on the pallet breaks under the weight of the battery.



As practice shows, this is how most of these pallets look on pre-restyling cars, because that foam has not been preserved. Perhaps that is why they made a larger tank on the restyling, so that it would be a support for the pallet. By the way, pallets for restyling and restyling differ precisely in this eye. Someone already glued my pallet, but it was very unsuccessful - it did not even fit into its place. That's why I redid everything - it doesn't look perfect, but it performs its function well. The hole had to be slightly enlarged, because the pin was not welded exactly. Maybe later I will buy a new one.



Another point that is not clear - there is no rubber seal in the ETK instead of the body plug, for installing the tank. The diameter of the hole in the body is much larger than the diameter of the tank nozzle. I don't know, maybe the hole in the body is smaller on the restyling, but I selected the size of the rubber plug, cut a hole for the nozzle in it, and it all fit perfectly and tightly on the body. By the way, I also did not find smaller plugs in the left and right trunk niches in ETK, so I also simply selected them by size in a car store. This is what it looks like from below.


The hose (61 21 1 377 745) is sold by 1 meter, although half will be enough.

Fastener No. 7 (61 21 7 564 274) consists of three parts, but each of which must be ordered separately:
61 21 7 564 274 - plate 1 pc.
61 21 7 577 620 - bolt 1 pc.
07 14 9 158 226 - locking washer 1 pc.

The bolt is inserted into the plate, then a locking washer is screwed onto it, which prevents the plate from jumping off the bolt.


And the last nuance - the ETK does not show the bolt, washers and nuts that are used to fasten the pallet - one M8 bolt, three 8 washers and two M8 nuts.

Battery mounting assembly.


All that remains is to buy and install a new battery.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_31. ETK_61_Wire contacts clamp

Next, we continue the ETK_61 section Общее е/оборудование автомобиль

We will talk about the "general" subdivisions of ETK, in which numerous wires, connectors, contacts, foams, clamps, clips and other wiring fasteners are listed. I don't see the point in writing everything in detail on each pin, so I'll just write what and how I use when repairing and restoring the wiring.

Wire


When replacing or supplementing wiring, I use original wires from donor pieces of E30, E34 and newer BMW wiring. I choose the wires according to the colors given in the ETK. Although wires of many colors can still be ordered new, but I don't see the point in this.


Connector plug housing


I also take some connectors and pins from them from donor wiring. There are a lot of their standard sizes in ETK, so it is difficult to understand their numbers and quantities - it is easier to take and try on in fact. In addition, many of them are no longer available to order, or are unreasonably expensive.
My main problem (like most) is with the door connectors. Therefore, I bought several such donor connectors, as well as a C302 connector for additional equipment to equip my own, and a C103 connector. I bought another set of pin removers because they are not very strong.


A small offtop - I will show, using the example of donor connectors, how some people repair and "upgrade" the wiring ;) After such wonderful electricians, then the devil will break his leg in that wiring :)
For example, judging by everything, this is the docking of the restyle wiring with the connector to the restyle - everything is simple - everything was cut off, and then everything was soldered. They didn't hear about the replacement of pins :) So this black cuttlefish came out:



Now the door connector is amazing - the wires of the central lock are all in one twist - and for grounding! )) And a bunch of amazing twists of different colors!

And the "logical" continuation - the red wire through the insert with two turns to the factory brown ground wire! ) How it somehow worked there - I can't imagine! ))


The only normal C302 connector was simply cut off.


So, back to my wiring. I washed, cleaned, cut off all the "masterpiece" twists, and prepared donor connectors, foam removers, and new flat contacts.


As I said, the main problems I had were with the door connector. As practice shows, almost everyone has such a problem - the rubber corrugation from old age allows water to flow down the rack, the contacts oxidize and eventually rot completely. Especially those with constant power. Because of this, these connectors are difficult to remove, and especially when people do not know how to remove them, and disassemble them in an absolutely barbaric way. Judging by the condition of those that I saw - they are practically torn out. So, I will show how to disassemble them correctly and carefully - maybe someone will need it.
First, it is good to fill the connector with WD-40 or something similar. Wait, and then sort it out. Remove the rubber corrugation, press the two lugs on the sides and pull out the door part (No. 14 on the ETK diagram) from the body (No. 15 and No. 16). Next, carefully press the three latches on the case and squeeze the connector into the niche of the front speaker.
Now, how to disassemble the body connector to replace the pins in it.
Door connector C405 (left) and C404 (right) are structurally similar, and consist of three parts (although for some reason only two are shown in the ETK)
No. 15 - outer case - 61 13 1 380 587
No. 16 - inner case - 61 13 1 375 690
lining of the inner case



To get to the pins, press the two latches on the sides.


We push them up along the guides


We pull out the lining of the inner case, and we already have access to the pins.

But it is much more convenient to change the pin by separating the inner case from the outer one. To do this, from the side of the wiring, insert two thin screwdrivers into the grooves on the sides, press the latches with them, and pull out the inner housing. Fully disassembled door body connector.


By the way, 4 pins remain in the outer case. This is done, for convenience, to separate the main wiring and the wiring of various additional options. I will write about this in the corresponding section with a detailed explanation.


When replacing pre-styling headlights with restyling ones with lenses, you need to change all their connectors. This time I did everything properly, without the "kolkhoz". Maybe someone will also find it useful:
The body of the connector is straight:
61131378400 straight black
61131378401 straight white (high beam)
61131378402 straight gray (sidelight)
61131378403 direct yellow (low beam)
A straight pin with a piece of wire:
61130007441 straight thin (0.5-1.0mm2)
61130007442 straight thick (1.0-2.5mm2)

Corner connector body:
61131378416 angular black
61131378417 corner white (main beam)
61131378418 corner gray (sidelight)
61131378419 corner yellow (low beam)
Corner pin with a piece of wire:
61130007445 angular thin (0.5-1.0mm2)
61130007446 corner thick (1.0-2.5mm2)

I will write about all other connectors and pins that I will change or add as the case progresses, in the appropriate sections.

[URL='http://ru.bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/E30-4-doors/Europe/325i-M20/L-M/1985/browse/vehicle_electrical_system/various_parts_wiring_harness_repair/']Various Parts for Wiring Repair[/URL ]


Everything is simple here - Tesa insulating tape, which comes in the original - PVC, fabric and Mylar, heat shrink and matches :)

I wrap the harnesses with insulating tape without gaps - I like it better that way.


Кабельные зажимы


I collected all the fasteners for wiring - judging by the photos on the Internet, different clamps were used in different years, so I will put them at my discretion. The quantity in ETK is not indicated, so I will watch as the case progresses - I hope that it will be enough.


Item No. 1 - plastic staples for wiring of different diameters and corresponding colors. Sold at any auto store.
Detail Forum - I don't know what it is for, I didn't find it. If anyone knows, please let me know.
Detail No. 3 - clamps for fastening the wiring along the thresholds. In each threshold, I counted 11 holes suitable for their installation. But I think that at least 5-6 pieces for each side will be enough.
Detail No. 4 - a clamp for fastening the wiring. Judging by the photo on the Internet, it was used on later machines.
Detail No. 5 - bracket for door wiring. At least I had him there.
Detail No. 6 - a clamp for attaching the wiring to the openings of the body. Judging by the photo on the Internet, it was used on earlier machines. The older ones have the shape of "herringbone trees", and the newer ones have the shape of "ladders". About 10 pieces are needed.
Detail No. 7 - a clamp for attaching the wiring to the studs of the body. Judging by the photo on the Internet, it was used on earlier machines. The older ones have the shape of "herringbone trees", and the newer ones have the shape of "ladders". About 20 pieces are needed.
Detail No. 8 - a clamp for attaching the wiring to the studs of the body. Judging by the photo on the Internet, it was used on earlier machines. I had them installed outside under the bottom. According to ETK, for some reason they have the same number with clamps #7, although in fact they are different.
Part No. 9 - ordinary screed 4.8/300mm
Detail No. 10 - a clamp for fastening the wiring. I did not find such a thing. Probably something similar to the blue collar in the photo. If anyone knows, please let me know.
Part No. 11 is a clamp for attaching the wiring to the torpedo. The older ones have the shape of "herringbone trees", and the newer ones have the shape of "ladders". About 10 pieces are needed.
Item No. 12, 13, 14 - metal staples of different diameters.
Part No. 15 - a clamp for fastening the wiring. Judging by the photo on the Internet, it was used on later machines.
Part No. 16 - was not used.
Part No. 17 is a bracket for attaching C103 and C302 wiring connectors. It was used on cars before restyling.
Part No. 18 - a bracket for fastening the wiring. It was used on cars after restyling, it was put in place of part E30 Technical Forums
Part No. 19 is a bracket for attaching C103 and C302 wiring connectors. It was used on cars after restyling.
Part No. 20 - was not used.
Part No. 21 is a plastic nut with lugs for wiring.

That's it with "common" units.
Details about wiring and its installation in the following sections.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_32. ETK_61_Different additional wiring sets.

Various additional wiring sets


Recently, I already wrote about this section of ETK, or rather about one item from it - No. 3. Now I will continue about other positions:

No. 1 - interior lighting wiring (to lampshades and "ends" of doors) - 61 12 1 373 554.


The wiring to the left and right shades is the same. In addition, I made similar wiring for the third shade, which I installed a long time ago, near the interior mirror, instead of the plug. I don't know - why wasn't this done at the factory?

No. 2 - wiring of the speed sensor, wear of the brake pads (with a separate harness). On my car, it is replaced by Blogs

No. 3 - wiring of the speed sensor, fuel level and brake pad wear sensor (additional tank fuel level sensor, as an option). I have already written about her before.

No. 4 - wiring of the automatic fuse of electric windows - 61 12 1 370 980.


Power cord for electric windows through the fuse button. The button blocks the operation of all electric windows.

No. 5 - wiring of the comfort relay of the electric windows (operation of the electric windows when the ignition is off and the driver's door is open) - 61 12 1 376 064.

Relay:

Found another one, without a relay.


No. 6 - wiring for daytime running lights (not sure, but it seems that the option of daytime running lights was provided for Scandinavian countries). I don't have one.

No. 7 - front door repair wiring (left and right). I don't have a repair room either, but there is a standard one, more about it later.

Private Messages - Diode (I don't know what kind of diode it is)

No. 9 - wiring of the pyro cartridge of the airbag (for cars with an airbag). I don't have it yet, but maybe soon. Although, I will not put an airbag - just for the collection of options.

No. 10 - wiring of the interior lighting delay timer (turning off the light in the interior after closing the door with a delay of several seconds) - 61 12 1 380 379.

Relay:

In the photo, the wiring is woven separately. I have wiring in the "top" configuration, so the same wiring is woven into the wiring harness of the central lock, so I will also write about it later.

No. 11 - I did not find it, it is probably not used

The next subdivision.
Various additional wiring sets


No. 1 - heater wiring. I will have an air conditioner, so the wiring will be different - about it in the appropriate section.

No. 2 - electric sunroof wiring - 61 12 1 369 295.

Relay:

By the way, this relay has an interesting marking of the contacts - in colors, according to the color of the wires:



No. 3 - wiring of an additional electric fan. I will have an air conditioner, so the wiring will be different - about it in the appropriate section.

No. 4 - wiper wiring. In mine, of course, it is part of the main wiring, and is connected to the fuse box.


No. 5 - airbag wiring (for cars with an airbag). I don't have it yet, but maybe soon. Although, I will not put an airbag - just for the collection of options.

That's it for additional wires. I will write about their installation together with the installation of all wiring.
Next time I will write about the so-called "electric package" - electric windows, electric sunroof, electric mirrors, central locking, interior lighting timer, and heating of the driver's lock.

[roguetoaster]

It's just amazing how fast everything comes together after you get the wiring sorted out, but it's a long road to get through repinning and double checking wiring setup.

Glad you can still get enough parts to keep the build going.

[The_Glory]

Yes, I totally agree - wiring is extremely time consuming. But I like to do it, so I do everything slowly and as carefully as possible. It is nice to get beautiful harnesses instead of piles of tangled wires. And there is not much left, I'm just writing with some lag behind real things.
Now, the delivery time of new original parts also takes a lot of time. My final order, which I placed on December 1st, should arrive tomorrow. But I'm making progress little by little...

[mjweimer]

I love following along with this build thread. Many thanks for posting all of the part numbers along with the pictures and excellent description, this is a fantastic reference for all these small bits and pieces are not clearly defined in the ETK.

Keep up the progress, have fun and stay safe brother.

[The_Glory]

I'm glad you found it interesting and useful. I hope that my next posts will also be useful.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_33. ETK_61_Bundles of wires (electric package)

Next, we continue the ETK_61 section Общее е/оборудование автомобиль

The next subdivision is the so-called "electric package".

Wire bundles (electric package)


This is a set of options combined into one interior wiring harness and door wiring. This set includes the following options:
- electric mirrors
- electric windows (two front or all four)
- central lock
- electric window comfort relay
- electric sunroof
- interior light switch-off timer
- heating of the driver's door lock

The wiring of the last four options was already shown in the previous section.
Depending on the configuration of the machine, there may be different combinations of these options. In my case - the "top" configuration, so they are all present.
The wiring of the electric passenger mirror on early cars was a separate harness (No. 1 and No. 2 on the diagram), and later it went together with the wiring of the central lock. By the way, in my car after its purchase, they were both, but the mirrors still did not work :)
So, let's move on to the main wiring of the "electric package" (No. 6 on the diagram).
I bought the wiring for four electric windows a long time ago, and the "package" included the remains of the central locking wiring. It was necessary to separate them. My garage is in the basement, it's dark there even during the day, and there's nothing to do without light. That's why I pulled the wiring to the house - my wife probably didn't like it very much, but she didn't kick it out - I'm grateful to her for that :)
Here is such a tangle of wires:


I untangled everything superfluous from it - the remains of the wiring of the central lock, with the main connector cut off and the rear part for the tank and trunk.


And the remaining wiring for four power windows is in fairly good condition. Replaced only two pins on the right front.


Even the tag with the number - 61 12 1 380 369 - corresponding to the year 85-86 has been preserved. What is needed.


But under this number, the same "electrical package" is available in the ETC - "For cars with an electric window lifter and a central lock." Therefore, I took my wiring from the garage, from which I also separated the wiring of the two front power windows.


And there remained a "package" of wiring for electric mirrors, central locking, a timer for turning off the interior light and heating the driver's door lock.


On the left, the wiring of the timer for turning off the interior light and heating the driver's door lock is woven.


On the right is the central lock and electric mirrors.


Rear door connectors, and connectors of the central lock on the hatch of the tank and the trunk.


I already said above that depending on the equipment of the car, there may be different combinations of these options. And to make it easier to combine them, the front door connectors C405 (left) and C404 (right) consist of two connectors - external and internal. Thanks to this, the wiring of the "electric package" can be very easily separated from the main body wiring - it is enough to simply separate the inner part from the outer part (how to do it correctly, I wrote in previous entries).
The outer part remains on the body wiring - there are only three wires for powering the entire "electric package":
red/black - constant power
green/black - power from the ignition switch
brown - mass

The inner part remains on the wiring of the entire "electrical package" and can be replaced completely, or supplemented with pins for various options from the "electrical package".


If I had known this before, I wouldn't have pulled all that wiring through the hole in the motor shield! )))

On the right, in the outer part, the mass and three wires of the right electric mirror remain.
The wiring for electric windows and/or central locking remains in the interior.


By the way, on the inner parts on both sides, as a rule, there are two more wires with 1-pin connectors (blue and white) - this is the audio wiring for the front tweeters in the doors.

The tag on my wiring was also preserved, but it was of little use - the number was completely rubbed off. Logically, it should be the same - 61 12 1 380 369


So, we put the wires one on top of the other.

We put it in one bundle.





We rewind it with the original fabric insulating tape, and we get a beautiful harness of a complete "electrical package".


With two tags :)


And now, useful (I hope so) information on connectors.

Front left side:


1.1 - C405 internal door connector
1.2 - C405 external door connector
2.1 - tweeter +
2.2 - twitter -
3 - standard alarm
4 - power supply of power windows C302 (Q)
5 - grounding of electric windows G200
6 - door stop for the electric window comfort relay
7 - power supply of the central lock C302 (D)
8 - grounding of the central lock G200
9 - block of the central lock
10 - timer relay for turning off the interior light and heating the driver's door lock
11 - driver's door stop
12 - contact for the driver's door end stop

Front right side:


1.1 - C404 internal door connector
1.2 - C404 external door connector
2.1 - tweeter +
2.2 - twitter -
3 - door stop for the electric window comfort relay

Power window buttons:


1 - front left electric window regulator button
2 - button of the front right electric window lifter
3 - button of the rear left electric window lifter
4 - button of the rear right electric window lifter
5 - button to lock the rear power windows

Rear:


1 - C401 rear left door connector
2 - C402 rear right door connector
3 - central trunk lock
4 - the central lock of the tank hatch

In order for this entire "electrical package" to function, each door must also have appropriate wiring.


Driver's side (No. 3 on the diagram) - wiring comes in different configurations. I have, again, the "top" version with a full list of "electric package" options. In addition, it also contains wiring for the magnetic lock of the standard alarm system - 61 12 1 385 855.


1 - C405 door connector
2 - electric mirror
3 - button for adjusting electric mirrors
4.1 - tweeter +
4.2 - twitter -
5 - electric window regulator
6 - central lock
7 - door lock stop
8 - timer for turning off the interior light and heating the driver's door lock
9.1 - magnetic lock of standard alarm system
9.2 - unit of standard alarm system

C405 pinout:


Passenger side (No. 4 on the diagram) - wiring comes in different configurations. Happens only with an electric mirror. It happens completely without wiring, with a mechanical mirror. And it happens, even, without a mirror at all. I have, again, the "top" version with a full list of "electric package" options - 61 12 1 385 856.


1 - C404 door connector
2 - electric mirror
3.1 - tweeter +
3.2 - twitter -
4 - electric window regulator
5 - central lock
6 - door lock stop

C404 pinout:


The rear left and right sides (No. 5 on the diagram) are the same - the wiring is in the same configuration for a complete "electrical package" - 61 12 1 375 794.
Left:


Rights:


1 - C401 left or C402 right door connector (similar)
2 - power window button
3 - electric window regulator
4 - central lock

Pinout C401 or C402:


The entire wiring of the "electric package" looks like this:


In addition to connecting to the door wiring, and powering through the external connector C405, the "electric package" is also connected to the connector of additional equipment C302:
- comfort relay of electric windows - on pins Q (white/black) and Z (red/yellow) - power supply for the operation of electric windows when the ignition is off and the doors are open;
- central lock - on pin D (red connector with green wire) - power supply for emergency opening of the central lock;


Also, the parts of the "electric package" are connected to each other through the wiring of the button of the emergency fuse of the power windows.


1 - power supply from the relay to the emergency fuse button
2 - power supply from the relay to the power sunroof
3 - power supply from the emergency fuse button to the power windows
4 - emergency fuse button

Perhaps this is all I know about the "electric package" E30.

I'm almost done rewiring the other optional extras now. Then I have to finish with C302 and C103 on the main wiring, which has been hanging in the garage on the wall for two years. Then mount and connect it all. Then maybe body assembly will go faster...

[The_Glory]

Assembly_34. ETK_41_Body (rear part)

There is a short break on the wiring, but for now I will write what was already done on the body a long time ago. Although not much has been done.

So, we start the big section ETK_41 Body

For some reason, it is often more convenient for me to start the assembly from the end of the ETC section :)

The most recent subdivision:
Mechanical connection elements


I have already written before about the restoration of all fasteners with yellow zinc, and the purchase of a new stainless fastener, so I will not write anything more here. All fasteners, clips, set nuts and self-tapping screws are re-galvanized or new.

The first installed element is a spoiler. I put it up a year ago, but I'm writing it now.
Rear spoiler details


The rear spoiler (No. 1 on the diagram) for the 325i was installed in the basic configuration, and for other models it was an additional option - S325. And for the 325i, there was an option on the contrary - no spoiler - S326.
It could also be painted in the color of the car - option S324. This is exactly the option I have.


The spoiler is attached with pins to six M6 plastic nuts (No. 3) with sealing gaskets (No. 4). The four nuts were white in color - I had not seen them before, so I decided to leave them. I cut the gaskets myself, because the original ones, although available, are not cheap, and you had to wait a long time for them.


Parts #6-11 is the spoiler for the optional M-Technic I package. It is installed in the same holes as the regular spoiler, but is additionally glued with double-sided tape.

We install the spoiler on the trunk lid.


You must have noticed that there is something wrong with the spoiler... ;) It has both ends cut off.


This was done by the previous owner in order to install a Breyton spoiler on top. Maybe someone will say - "kolkhoz" :) But I like how it looks, so I left it like that. By the way, the Zender spoiler is similarly made.


And the original M-Technic II spoiler was made according to the same "two-tier" principle. It consists of a spoiler and an upper spoiler. The spoiler is attached to the same hole. There is an additional attachment for the upper spoiler.



So, on top of the standard spoiler, we install a Breyton spoiler.


We use rubber gaskets and stainless fasteners.


By the way, I removed the home-made additional diode brake light from it. Now it looks as it should.



Breyton


Install and fasten with four bolts.



"two floors" ;)


Next subsection:
Trunk door/locking system




Everything is installed:


Some details on individual details.
The seal (#2) was found in excellent condition, as a new one is unreasonably expensive.
Rubber stops (No. 3) for adjusting the pressure of the trunk.


Parts No. 5 and No. 6 are not shown in the photo - trunk hinges, they were not removed from the body.
Parts No. 7 and No. 8 are not shown in the photo - torsion bars of the trunk, they were not removed from the body.
There are three types of torsion bars, depending on the load on them:
- stock (left 41 62 1 937 495, right 41 62 1 937 496)
- for standard spoiler or M-Technic I spoiler (left 41 62 1 937 497, right 41 62 1 937 498)
- for M-Technic II spoiler (left 41 62 2 238 835, right 41 62 2 238 836)
A few years ago, I installed the original new M-Technic torsion bars - the trunk lid opened normally, and does not fall on my head :)
Parts No. 9 and No. 10 are torsional fasteners. The ends were broken so I ordered new ones and the middle one was intact.


Torsions in the first position. Later, if they stop holding the trunk lid, they can be moved to the second position, for greater rigidity. You have to pull them very carefully - you can break your fingers.



Middle retainer under a metal bracket.


The side latches are located under these brackets on the rear shelf.


By the way, does anyone know what they are for, and what are the threaded holes in these brackets for? What is screwed there? I can't find this information anywhere.

Detail No. 12 - gasket under the lock. There are two types - stock (51 24 1 884 147) and under the plastic cover of the rear license plate (51 24 1 884 152). The photo shows their differences, but I will write more about it in the corresponding section.



Part No. 14 - trunk lock bracket. It has a special nut for adjusting the pressure.


Part Other Forums is a rubber insert under the bracket in the lock. Many have not preserved it - it is beige in the photo. He did not take it out a second time so that it would not break.


Lock General Forums and E30 Technical Forums is different for cars with and without a central lock. The lock is attached with three bolts in the niche of the rear panel.



Part No. 18 is a plastic plug with a diameter of D=11MM (51 14 1 823 900). Another part with an inadequate price - 10 euros per piece. I measured all the openings in the trunk and did not find any suitable ones. However, I found two holes in the back panel, I don't know why they were made there, because they were not there in the original panel - they will have to be closed with something.


But these plugs do not fit there either. I looked through a bunch of photos on the Internet, and I didn't see these plugs anywhere... That's why I didn't order them. And he did it right. Then, somehow by accident, I saw a photo of the rear glass frame for the M3 on the Internet - that's where they are placed, under the lower corners of the rear glass. This is another mistake in ETK - these plugs are needed only for M3.


Detail No. 19 - a metal plate 1 mm thick for adjusting the position of the trunk lid in height. It is placed under the hinges of the trunk.


I bought four pieces just in case, but they probably won't be useful. The cover became normal even without them, as it was before. It will only be necessary to repaint the cover fasteners after adjustment.
Parts #20, 25-27 are used only for M3. And also number 18, as it turned out.
Parts #21-24, 28 are used only for convertibles.

So, the back part is a little gathered, next time I will continue a little more.

[The_Glory]

I continue the previous entry.

The following subdivisions in ETK are about the roof of the body, but they are also related to the rear part to some extent:
Roof


There is nothing special to write about here - there is an ordinary roof (No. 1) and a roof with a hatch (No. 2). If desired, the roof lining and hatch tray (No. 3) can be replaced by factory welded joints. The sunroof on almost all cars has corrosion at the junction with the sunroof tray. Perhaps this is a structural defect in the joint, or an unsuitable sealant, which spreads corrosion. I have already described everything in detail about the roof repair earlier. Now my roof and hatch pan are in very good condition.


Apron


In fact, these are separate details of the roof from the previous section.
Detail No. 1 - roof cladding, with or without a hatch. By the way, the trim is the same for 2- and 4-door sedans.
Details No. 2-13 - individual details of the power frame of the roof.
Detail No. 14 - the lower part of the windshield frame. This is an important part of the body, as it contains the car's serial number - VIN. By the shape of the stamping for the number, you can distinguish the car before restyling and after restyling.
Details Other Forums and General Forums - rear shelf. It differs for cars before 85 and after 85.
Part Regional Forums - plastic plug (51 71 1 801 066) D=20MM.


In the rear part, on the side of the trunk, near its seal, three such plugs are placed.



I already mentioned them earlier - the same plugs are used in the thresholds and in the trunk.
I had someone put them in the back shelf earlier - they fit the size. Although they shouldn't be there, I left them just in case.


The following division on the back of the body:

Fender/rear trim




Part Home and Members Rides - rear wing and its repair insert for 2-door sedans.
Detail Forum - back panel. I already wrote about it before - a new Polish analogue made in Taiwan) The quality is good, it turned out well, but it has two incomprehensible holes under the trunk lock bracket. I recently mentioned them, it was necessary to remove them immediately. Now we need to look for plugs for them.
Details No. 3-7 - tank hatch assembly.

Part Visitor Messages consists of two parts - a metal sleeve and a rubber cuff (pictured below).
Part No. 8 is a plastic holder for a tank cap.
Detail No. 13 - metal plates for adjusting the position of the hatch relative to the body. They are placed under the loop (#4).


51 17 1 906 869 - thickness 0.5MM
51 17 1 906 877 - thickness 1.0MM
I ordered two of each just in case, but they did not fit - the hatch turned out well without them.
Detail No. 14 - a rubber cover for the filler neck of the tank. In almost all cars, it tears under the influence of gasoline and time. Therefore, I ordered a new one (51 71 1 884 358).

Detail No. 15 - rubber buffer of the tank hatch. For a long time I could not understand what it is and where it belongs. Then he paid attention to its size indicated in the ETK - 1.5 MM. I looked more closely, and still found it! :) These are two tiny rubber inserts in the loop of the hatch, against which it rests when opening. They were painted over - I washed them off the paint. Although, new ones are available, but at an inadequate price of 9 Euros per piece.


So, the hatch is in place.



Details No. 9-12 - mounting of the rear license plate. I will write more about it and decorative caps later in another section of ETK.


Part General Forums - rear wing for 4-door sedans.
Part No. 17 - plastic plug D=12MM in the rear wing (51 71 9 057 117)


It is placed in the lower corner of the rear door, in front of the wheel arch.


Part No. 18 - shield (51 71 1 917 437). It is no longer available for order, but I was wondering what it is. I found only one photo of him on the Internet.


The quantity in ETC is 2 pieces. I'm not sure, but it looks a lot like the plugs in the holes for the stock towbar brackets. From the factory, there are metal plugs that are removed when the towbar is installed.


So, apparently, when dismantling the towbar, the holes are closed with such plastic shields. I think so. If it's not, please correct me.
Part No. 19 - shield (51 71 1 920 010). Rubber insert on the rear towing eye. By the way, few people have it preserved.


Parts General Discussion and General Technical - rear fender repair inserts. They are available to order, but as practice shows, it is better to buy an analogue and change the entire edge of the arch, which I did.
Part Off Topic Lounge - AEGS ECU holder (41 35 1 937 998). An interesting detail that I did not understand. I could not find even a single photo of her on the Internet. Judging by the name and location, it appears to be the optional AEGS telephone bracket that was attached to the rear left wing. I ordered it purely out of curiosity. And that's what arrived.




I tried to attach it to the wing in different places in the trunk, but I did not understand how and where it is attached.



Apparently, it is necessary to drill holes for it, as indicated in the EVA for other regular phones. Although, I don't need it and I wasn't going to install it. It was just interesting ;)

The following division on the back of the body:

Rear seat bottoms


This is the power frame of the rear part of the body. I also wrote about its repair earlier. Now all its parts are also in good condition.
Therefore, I will dwell on only two details.


Detail No. 8 - the lower spacer of the body tunnel. Used only on convertibles and sedans for the US market (51 71 1 913 824). It's not her in the photo :) I already made homemade spacers a long time ago - front, back, and bottom. It performs its function in the same way as the original one, so I will leave it for now. And later I may buy the original one, it is still available for order.
Part Albums is a plastic plug D=14MM (33 11 1 236 826), which is placed in the upper supports of the rear springs. I forgot to remove them before painting, so here they are blue :)


The same plugs are used in thresholds, we will talk about them later.

The last division on the back of the body:

Trunk floor/mudguard Rear


Again, I already described the repair of the rear arches and the trunk - now all the parts there have a good appearance and condition.
Therefore, I will dwell on only two details.


Detail No. 11 - it seems to me that this is again an error in ETK. I saw such shields in the niche between the rear wing and the arch only on 2-door sedans. They separate the interior from the trunk. There is no point in them on 4-door sedans, since the arch is completely closed. And there is no physical access to install them. So I probably don't have them, and logically I shouldn't have them.
Part E34/E28 Forums - plastic plug (51 71 1 801 066) D=20MM. The same plug I wrote about at the beginning of this entry. The same six plugs are placed in the holes of the spars on the floor of the trunk.


All over the back of the body. Next will be about the sides and the front.

[roguetoaster]

Thank you for continuing to meticulously document your build for posterity. It will probably be a useful resource for someone in the future.

Also neat to see optional parts that we all think about ordering, but generally never do.

[The_Glory]

Thank you for continuing to meticulously document your build for posterity. It will probably be a useful resource for someone in the future.

Also neat to see optional parts that we all think about ordering, but generally never do.

Thank you.
I hope that I am not writing all this in vain, and it will be useful to someone )
Although, I sometimes ask something here, but I have never received any answer so far... )

[roguetoaster]

Thank you.
I hope that I am not writing all this in vain, and it will be useful to someone )
Although, I sometimes ask something here, but I have never received any answer so far... )

I'd suggest putting any questions in a separate post in this thread or elsewhere on the forum lest they simply get missed. It's also possible that the right people who could answer simply aren't reading the thread, even those of us who have been playing with E30s for decades don't have all of the answers.

Also remember that reading a thread like this on mobile is problematic, so it's easy to scroll past. In any case, don't get discouraged.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_35. ETK_41_Body (Side frame)

So, we continue the ETK_41 section Body


Side frame


The side frame is a power frame consisting of sills, roof racks, and a rear wing. After body work, the side frame looks like this.


The following subsection shows individual details of the side frame.
Parts of the side frame


In the course of the body repair, I installed new external thresholds (#4), restored jack stands (#8-10), reinforced joints of the struts with the roof (#1,3, #5,6, #14-16), restored rear shelf (№13) and fuel pump mounts (№12,22), repair arches of the rear fenders are installed. All this has already been described before. Therefore, now I will dwell only on small details.



Part #11 is the left cover (51 71 1 916 123) and the right cover (51 71 1 916 124), which are installed on the bottom of the niche of the front speakers. I only had the right cover, and it got lost somewhere during body work, so I bought both new ones.




And it was only after sweating that I realized that the left cover is installed only if the car does not have a central lock. Because its control unit is installed exactly in place of this cover. That's probably why I didn't have it. I will finally check this when installing the central lock.
So, for now, I only put the right cover.


If there is a hatch, there are cutouts for the drainage hose on the cover.


We break the corner


And we try on the cover to the niche.


Do not be afraid) There is no rust in the niche. This is a thick layer of old oil anti-rust, on which sand has stuck after sandblasting the body. :) Deleting it is not realistic, and it makes no sense. Not aesthetically pleasing, but we have what we have.
I took the drainage hose from the threshold to the outside, under the wing. I don't understand why they didn't do that at the factory. Then the thresholds and floor on cars with a hatch would be much more complete ;)


The hose shifted a little, so I had to cut the corner of the cover more so that it would fit properly.



The left cover is still waiting for the installation of the central lock, then I will try it on. But I think she won't fit in there. Let's see...
I already wrote about plugs, I will repeat about some that are placed in the side frame.


Part E30 Technical Forums - plastic plug D=23MM (51 71 1 904 843). It is placed in the rack opposite the door hinge fastening nuts. There are two on each side of the front door.


On the rear doors, one on each side, opposite the upper door hinges.


The stoppers are fixed very tightly, so you need to put them after adjusting the door. By the way, this is what these holes are made for - through them you can turn the hinge nuts when the door is closed to adjust them.
Two more such plugs are placed in the absence of a central lock and rear power windows on the car - instead of rubber corrugations of the rear door wiring. Although, on the scheme in ETK they are marked as #18, but there the holes are larger and they do not fit there, and E30 Technical Forums are fine. Probably another error in ETK.

Part No. 18 - plastic plug D=20MM (51 71 1 801 066). This is again the same plug that I wrote about in the previous post, which is placed under the rear shelf and on the floor of the trunk. In this case, they are placed at the back on the inner threshold, two pieces on each side.
On the left, I have them brewed.

And on the right, they remained under the paint


Part E34/E28 Forums - plastic plug D=14MM (33 11 1 236 826) I also mentioned it in the previous entry - it is placed on the upper supports of the rear springs. In this case, the same plug is placed from below in the middle of the thresholds, one on each side.


Under number 19, there is another plug (51 71 1 839 321) D=16.5MM, but I did not find such holes for 6 such plugs. I didn't understand what it is and where it goes. Maybe another mistake...

Part General Discussion - plastic oval plug 33X42.5MM (51 71 1 911 996). This plug is placed on the front passenger side, in the absence of an "electric package" on the car - instead of the rubber corrugation of the front door wiring.

Everything on the side frame.
The front part and doors remained on the body. There is nothing to write about it yet, almost nothing has been compiled yet.
Next, I will probably write a little more about the equipment of the body - just today another parcel arrived with new bags, and then there will be wiring again...