E30 from Ukraine - "Shadow of Intelligence"

[The_Glory]

Assembly_36. ETK_51_Body equipment. (part 3) Base of license plate

Let's return to the ETK section again
Body equipment

Namely, to his subdivision, which concerns the rear of the car.
License plate base




The base of the license plate is an optional retrofit kit №1 on the diagram (51 13 9 056 620), which includes a plastic overlay for the license plate, a gasket for the trunk lock, and clips for attaching the overlay. It is no longer available for order, but all these parts can still be ordered separately. That's exactly what I did.

Part №2 - plastic cover (51 13 1 888 450)


If you notice, there is a hole in the bottom middle of my pad. I bought the cover new, and this hole was not there. But here the German engineers slightly neglected one point. Usually, many parts have several options, depending on the configuration of the machine. And in this case, the overlay exists only in one version. And this option does not take into account the installation of a standard alarm - the overlay covers the alarm LED. Therefore, it was necessary to drill a hole for it in the overlay.

Detail № 3 - double-sided tape for additional fixation of the lining at the edges. I don't see the point of ordering the original one, I glued the usual one from the store.


Part № 4 - gasket for the trunk lock (51 24 1 884 152). I recently mentioned it - it is placed instead of the usual gasket (51 24 1 884 147) and closes the gap between the plastic lining and the trunk lock. The difference can be seen in the photo.



Part № 5 - plastic insert (51 18 1 916 071) for a self-tapping screw. Here, German engineers have already taken everything into account - for the lining, not the usual ones (51 18 1 852 299), but these inserts are needed - they press the lining to the body. Although, the first time under the number 51 18 1 916 071, our official dealer slipped me the usual inserts 51 18 1 852 299. The photo above shows the difference - the usual black ones are smaller in size and do not press the pad. Although not critical, this time I ordered the correct inserts from Germany and they turned out great.

Parts №6 and №7- self-tapping screws and washers.

A license plate overlay is installed.


It looks beautiful. It will be especially good together with Startec. ;)
Unlike a regular gasket, the collar of this gasket closes the gap well.


By the way, he also installed the alarm LED, otherwise it won't turn on later - a malfunction of German engineers! :)

And to make it even more beautiful, I ordered decorative caps (№8) for self-tapping screws. This time, probably, for their sake, I will even drill holes in the license plates, and screw them in the "old school" way - through, and not just insert them into the frame ;)
The caps come in three colors:


64 11 1 375 497 - blue
51 18 1 823 474 - black
51 18 1 813 017 - white

I bought all colors, and 4 pieces for both license plates. Then I'll see which ones are more suitable in terms of color, and I'll put them there. Or I will change one at a time. :)

There are a few more details on the ETK scheme. They are present in the general photo.
Part №. 9 - rubber sealing ring (64 22 1 922 280) of side bars. These rings are often the cause of water leaking into the side niches of the trunk, so I bought them new.
Part № 10 - side ventilation grille (64 22 1 922 738) of the trunk with a rubber valve. Both grills are the same, fixed with latches in the body through a rubber ring. The rubber curtain valve lets air out (this is especially noticeable when closing the doors or trunk), and prevents air and water from entering the inside of the car.
Left side


The grilles have special fittings for connecting the hatch's rear drainage hoses. In the front part of the grille, the hose is fixed to the fitting with clamp №11 (54 12 1 922 721), and the rear fitting is closed with plug №13 (64 22 1 922 652).


Unlike the front, rear hoses of the hatch from the factory, through these grills, are brought out - under the rear bumper. It's good that it's not in the trunk, but in the front door sills! ))
Similarly, the right side.
There is only one nuance - I had an additional rubber seal on the right side on the front part of the grille.


Perhaps it is №12 on the diagram, but according to ETK this part is not used, and I did not find its number. And the second such seal was also not found. Although, apparently, there is a point in it - it additionally prevents the ingress of water from under the wheels to the grille.
From the inside, it is also similar - a clamp and a plug.


Parts №14 and №15 are not used. I don't know what it is, but visually according to the diagram, it looks like a bracket standing inside the front door. But it is not clear why he is here...

That's all for now.

[roguetoaster]

Your alarm is factory with an LED in the rear? Any idea if that LED was a sort of optional accessory? Do you also have an LED inside, maybe near the HVAC stack?

[The_Glory]

Your alarm is factory with an LED in the rear? Any idea if that LED was a sort of optional accessory? Do you also have an LED inside, maybe near the HVAC stack?

Exactly. What's more, there are two diodes - one on the magnetic alarm lock on the driver's door, and the other behind the license plate. There is no diode in the cabin. This is the factory solution described in the original alarm installation manual (EBA).
Here she is in ETK:
http://ru.bmwfans.info/parts-catalog...ems/#1369412_9

Part №9 (65 75 1 369 412) is exactly that diode.


The same option was available on E23, E28 and E30. But on the E23 and E28, there was not just a diode at the back, but another duplicate magnetic lock with a diode.
This is a very old system. In newer alarm systems, the diode was in the cabin, as in modern systems. By the way, I also have such a diode. But such alarms were installed on the E30 of the last years of production, mainly on touring cars and convertibles of the years 91-94. At least in Europe.

PS
I looked in ETK - it turns out that this option was not available for the US market. Amazingly.

[roguetoaster]

Good to know. In the US we did have a plethora of dealer installed systems that really ran the gamut in quality of components and quality of installation.

Yep, my security nub is in the HVAC stack in a '90 318i touring. Of late I have really been contemplating removing the whole thing, partly because I only have one "key" for the system, and partly because of the slight slowdown in starting the car since the nub is rather difficult to hit accurately as the parts don't exactly nest with each other.

[The_Glory]

Do you mean this kind of alarm key?


I have already heard several times that it is not very convenient to use. But I'm still going to install it, it's been in the garage for a long time.

And now I have a magnetic key for a separate lock in the door.




There will be a real launch ritual :)

[roguetoaster]

Yep, I have that exact annoyance, and my only fob is broken in pretty much the same way as well. Although the part number of the control box on mine returns E36 fitment if I recall correctly, but I suspect that it simply controls power to the main relay.

Your pre-flight checklist would be pretty involved with both of those units. Personally, I think it would be fun to put that exterior unit in the center console like a SAAB key just to confuse people.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_37. ETK_41_Body (central lock)

We continue the ETK_41 section Body

I don't know by what logic, but the electric drives of the central lock are for some reason related to the body.
Central locking


I also don't know by what logic I laid them out on the table for the photo - somehow it turned out chaotically, I mixed up almost all of them :) That's why I corrected them in Photoshop :)


Drives are different for each door:
№1 - Red body, white cover - front left (driver's)
№1 - Red body, red cover - front right (passenger)
№ 2 - White body, white cover - tank hatch.
№ 3 - Red body, white cover with a blue cap - trunk (has two stem positions)
№27 - White body, red cover - rear left and/or rear right (same)

Everything is clear about the pulls of the door drives in the photo - the shorter ones (No. 5 and No. 6) are in the front, the longer ones (No. 28) are in the back. The pull on trunk No. 7 is short with a straight hook. By the way, one detail is missing from the photo - No. 22. This is a plastic bushing in the trunk lock for this pull. I did not take it out so as not to break it. Here it is in the castle, and a thrust has already been inserted into it:

The trunk drive is installed


Details №14-16 - end switches of door locks. They are installed together with locks, so I will write about them in more detail there.


Details №17-20 - central lock control unit with a bracket.


The delay relay for the interior light and heating of the driver's lock is also attached to the same bracket. Therefore, I will also install it later along with the wiring.


By the way, I already wrote about the wiring of the central lock earlier - it goes in the "electric package".
Last time, I also wrote about the plastic covers in the niche of the front speakers. So, I checked - the left cover will definitely not stand in the presence of the central lock block. I ordered it in vain.

The tank hatch drive is attached to a special bracket №8.


A bracket is placed on the bracket to fix the wiring.


The bracket is attached with two self-tapping screws to the edge of the arch, and one bolt with a rubber gasket to the body. My bolt hole was already welded - probably it was the cause of corrosion in that place. I didn't want to drill a hole, so the bolt just serves as a stop. Although, even without it, there were no problems with the drive before.


Parts №12, №13, №23 - guides for the drive rod of the tank hatch. It is attached to the holes under the hatch.


Stem position "open"


Stem position "closed"


closed


The door drives are attached to the door with two self-tapping screws, so I don't see the point in writing about it separately - I will write next time together with the fastening of locks and handles.
By the way, on restyled cars, the central lock drives were not attached to the door, but to the door lock mechanism.

Parts №30-32 are not used.

[The_Glory]

Yep, I have that exact annoyance, and my only fob is broken in pretty much the same way as well. Although the part number of the control box on mine returns E36 fitment if I recall correctly, but I suspect that it simply controls power to the main relay.

Your pre-flight checklist would be pretty involved with both of those units. Personally, I think it would be fun to put that exterior unit in the center console like a SAAB key just to confuse people.

No, not just powering the main relay. I found the factory instructions (EVA) for installing this system - there is an opportunity to break several power circuits of the wiring - the main relay, motronic, fuel pump and starter. So dismantling this thing may not be easy.


I will leave it as it should be, especially since there is already a hole in the door. By the way, the "masters" made it too big - I still don't know what will happen with it...

[QuiqueUy]

v nice ! keep the updates coming ! lots of little stuff to put in , the amount of time it takes to take photos and organize its way more than actual working

[The_Glory]

Assembly_38. ETK_41_Body (front door locks)

We continue the ETK_41 section Body

I replaced all four doors. My old door is still assembled under the wall in the garage. Now it is necessary to rearrange everything from them to new doors.
I start with the front door.
The cores of the locks still need to be reworked under one key, the outer handles need to be painted - so more on that later. And for now about hinges, limiters, locks and internal handles.
Door Pd, hinges/door limiter




The front door (#1) is of two types - before 1988 and after 1988. The main difference is in the loops (No. 3 and No. 11). Until 1985, the hinges were not removable, but welded to the body. Therefore, when they wear out, there are certain difficulties with their repair. After 1985, the hinges are detachable, and you can order repair kit No. 18 (41 51 1 922 737) for them.
But without hinges, the doors themselves are interchangeable. Mine is an 84 body with welded hinges, but post 88 doors fit on them with no problem. Plates No. 6 and No. 14, 0.5 mm and 1 mm thick, are used to adjust the door in depth. The latter with a slot are more convenient - they can be placed without completely removing the door from the hinge. By the way, earlier I already mentioned the holes in the door jambs of the body - through them it is also convenient to adjust the doors in the closed position. And in general, hinges after 85 are much more convenient to adjust. But, we have what we have. The doors are fastened with self-locking nuts M8 (#7) 4 pieces for each door. Non-removable insert plates (No. 19) with M8 pins (No. 20) are provided for fastening in the door.
Detail Forum - convertible doors - they are completely different.
The second significant difference between the doors is the fastening of the window regulators. Until 1988, only cable lifts were installed on the doors. Cable or lever lifts were installed on the doors after 1988, so they have holes for attaching both types of lifts. Depending on the type of elevators, the glass guides and the glass itself differ. But I will write about it in the relevant sections.
Detail Groups - door opening limiter. Mine were worn out so I replaced them all. The front one is the same on the left and right side, but differs from the limiter of the rear door. It is attached to the door with two M6 bolts (#5). On the body, it is fixed in a special loop with pin Private Messages and staple Albums The connection is closed with rubber seal No. 10.


After the final adjustment of the doors according to the gaps, I plan to paint the nuts, as it was from the factory.
Detail No. 12 - a rubber insert for wiring electric mirrors.


Detail No. 13 - I don't quite understand what it is... maybe it's an error in ETK again. Somewhere it was written that this is a convertible part, but I'm not sure about that. Although, I did not meet her on sedans. So I don't have it either.
Detail No. 15 - a stiffening rib in the lower part of the front door.


It is riveted to the door with two rivets No. 17, through the seal No. 16. There was no point in removing it.



Door drive/door lock Pd




The photo shows the details on the right front door. On the left - similarly.
Detail Albums - the internal door handles (#1 and #2) differ on the left and right sides. The front and back are the same on one side.
Detail No. 3 - decorative handle frame. It is placed on top of the door panel. Therefore, I will put them later.
Detail No. 4 - a rod connecting the handle to the door lock. Same on both sides.
Detail No. 5 - the tip of the traction. Inserts into the draw holes in the handle and lock. I did not take them out so as not to break them, because they are quite fragile.


Part No. 6 and No. 7 - self-tapping screw and insert plate. Two for each handle.
Detail No. 8 - anti-squeal gasket under the handle body.
Detail No. 10 - traction clip. One on each side.

Door lock Pd




Detail Home - the door lock differs on the left and right sides. It is attached to the door with three special bolts M6 (#3).
Detail No. 7 - the tip of the thrust. It is inserted into the holes for traction in the lock. Three pieces for each lock. Although, there are 4 holes for rods on the locks, but one is not used.
Part No. 15 is a rod connecting the door lock button to the lock. They differ on the left and right sides.
Detail No. 6 - a decorative traction button.
Detail No. 2 - door lock latch. It differs before restyling and after restyling. But they are interchangeable. I replaced it with restyling ones. I think they hold the lock better. They are the same for all doors. If they are heavily worn, the left and right can be rearranged. It is attached to the body with two special bolts M8 (#4). Special insert parts #11 are used for mounting in the body struts.
Part No. 13 is a sealing washer made of thin rubber.
Detail No. 14 - a plate with a thickness of 0.5 mm for adjusting the position of the latch.
Parts #5, #8-10, ##12 are not used.

So, we start putting everything together. In addition to the lever of the door button No. 15, it is necessary to connect the lever of the central lock drive to the lock. I wrote about it last time.


Then we connect the pull of the inner handle to the other lever of the lock.


The upper lever of the lock with the tip for traction is not used.
Lubricate the entire lock well with grease for door locks, and the lock is ready for installation.
By the way, it is important to connect all the rods exactly as shown in the photo above. Otherwise, they will interfere with each other or cling to the door.
On the left (driver's) lock, this can be done only by opening a special fastener on the plastic cover. They opened it, connected the traction.


They closed the fastener.


We put the lock in the door and screw it.


Next, we connect the drive of the central lock to its pull, and screw it to the door. Using the door lock button, we check whether the drive moves freely to its extreme positions, adjust it and fix it in this position.
Next, we attach the internal door handle to the rod, and screw it through the gasket to the door. We also check whether it moves freely to its extreme positions, adjust it and fix it in this position.


The pull of the handle is additionally fixed to the door with a clip. By the way, the new clips are white instead of black and have a better design than the old ones.


The locks are installed.


The locks are also installed.


The door now closes, but it is necessary to adjust it even better and more precisely according to the locks and gaps. I will do this when the doors are fully assembled - with glass, electric lifts, moldings, etc. In the meantime, you still need to put all the "shadow line" moldings in order, paint the external handles, go through the cores of the locks, clean the seals, and remove the tint from the glass. A lot of work...

[The_Glory]

v nice ! keep the updates coming ! lots of little stuff to put in , the amount of time it takes to take photos and organize its way more than actual working

Thanks.
Yes, indeed, the photo and text take a lot of time, but I also like to do it )

[The_Glory]

Collection_39. ETK_41_Body (rear door locks)

We continue the ETK_41 section Body

Now the back door.

Rear door - hinge/door stop




There are two types of rear doors (#1) - before 1988 and after 1988. The main difference is in the loops (No. 2 and No. 3). Until 1985, the hinges were not removable, but welded to the body. Therefore, when they wear out, there are certain difficulties with their repair. After 1985, the hinges are detachable, and you can order a repair kit for them (41 51 1 922 737).
But without hinges, the doors themselves are interchangeable. Mine is an 84 body with welded hinges, but post 88 doors fit on them with no problem. Plates No. 5 and No. 7, 0.5 mm and 1 mm thick, are used to adjust the door in depth. The latter with a slot are more convenient - they can be placed without completely removing the door from the hinge. By the way, earlier I already mentioned the holes in the door jambs of the body - through them it is also convenient to adjust the doors in the closed position. And in general, hinges after 85 are much more convenient to adjust. But, we have what we have. The rear door is attached to the upper hinge with ordinary M8 nuts (No. 6), and to the lower hinge with self-locking M8 nuts (No. 8), 2 pieces each, for each door. This is probably due to the different construction of the upper and lower loops. Non-removable insert plates (No. 15) with M8 pins (No. 16) are provided for fastening in the door.

I'm not exactly sure about the difference between the rear doors in fixing the window regulators, but logically it should be similar to the front... Correct me, who knows for sure. But in ETK there are also two types of rear electric lifts. Depending on the type of elevators, the glass guides and the glass itself differ. But I will write about it in the relevant sections.
Detail Groups - door opening limiter. Mine were worn out so I replaced them all. The rear one is the same on the left and right side, but differs from the front door limiter. The rear limiter is stamped with the marking "H" (from the German "hintere"). It is important not to confuse them, otherwise they will cling to the edge of the opening in the body and gradually tear it apart. This is from my own experience - I used to have a rear one in front, as it turned out... It is attached to the door with two M6 bolts (#9). On the body, it is fixed in a special loop with pin #10 and staple #11. The connection is closed with a rubber seal No. 12.


After the final adjustment of the doors according to the gaps, I plan to paint the nuts, as it was from the factory.
After installation, it should be lubricated from the middle, for smoother operation. Bottom loop with grooves - with self-locking nuts.


Part No. 13 and No. 14 are plugs. They are duplicated in another section, so I will write about them there later.

Rear door locking system




The photo shows the details on the right front door. On the left - similarly.
Detail #10 - the internal door handles differ on the left and right sides. The front and back are the same on one side.
Detail No. 9 - decorative handle frame. It is placed on top of the door panel. Therefore, I will put them later. All four are the same.
Detail No. 7 - a rod connecting the handle to the door lock. Same on both sides.
Detail No. 8 - the tip of the thrust. Inserts into the draw holes in the handle and lock. I did not take them out so as not to break them, because they are quite fragile.


Part No. 12 and No. 11 - self-tapping screw and insert plate. Two for each handle.
Detail No. 13 - anti-squeak gasket under the handle body.
Detail No. 14 - traction clip. One on each side.

Details #1-6 - mechanism of the external handle. Will be installed a little later, after painting the handles.

Rear door locking system




Detail Home - the door lock differs on the left and right sides. It is attached to the door with three special M6 bolts (#2).
Detail No. 7 - the tip of the thrust. It is inserted into the holes for traction in the lock. Three pieces for each lock.
Detail No. 13, No. 14 - rods connecting the door lock button with the lock. No. 13 differs on the left and right sides, No. 14 is the same.
Detail No. 11 - a decorative traction button.
Part No. 6 - the lever of the rods, they differ on the left and right sides.
Part No. 9 and No. 10 - a special bolt and lock nut for fastening lever No. 11.
Detail No. 8 - traction clip. One on each side.
Detail No. 3 - door lock latch. It differs before restyling and after restyling. But they are interchangeable. I replaced it with restyling ones. I think they hold the lock better. They are the same for all doors. If they are heavily worn, the left and right can be rearranged. It is attached to the body with two special bolts M8 (#4). For fastening in the rear arches of the body, special built-in parts are provided.
Part No. 5 - sealing washer made of thin rubber.
Detail No. 12 - a plate with a thickness of 2 mm for adjusting the position of the latch.

So, we start putting everything together.


It is necessary to connect the drive rod of the central lock to the lock. I wrote about it last time.


We attach the rods to the lever - exactly as shown in the photo. Symmetrically on the other side. I put a protective tube on the button pull, just in case, so as not to scratch the paint. We do not attach them to the lock yet, because they will interfere with its installation.


Then we connect the pull of the inner handle to the other lever of the lock.


Lubricate the entire lock well with grease for door locks, and the lock is ready for installation.
By the way, it is important to connect all the rods exactly as shown in the photo above. Otherwise, they will interfere with each other or cling to the door.

We put the lock in the door and screw it.


Then we insert the lock nut into the door and screw the lever with the rods. We insert the rod into the hole and fix it in the lock with a straight hook.


The pulls should be located exactly like this.


At first, I was able to put them incorrectly :) But it sometimes did not fit in, sometimes it clung to the door. Therefore, it is necessary to put it exactly like that, and in no other way.
Next, we connect the drive of the central lock to its pull, and screw it to the door.


Using the door lock button, we check whether the drive moves freely to its extreme positions, adjust it and fix it in this position.


Next, we attach the internal door handle to the rod, and screw it through the gasket to the door. We also check whether it moves freely to its extreme positions, adjust it and fix it in this position.


The pull of the handle and the pull of the button are additionally fixed each to the door with a clip.


The locks are installed.
We check whether they work correctly. Let's not forget about the locking lever of the rear inner door handles - "child lock".
Located on the end of the door above the lock.


The locks are also installed.


The door now closes, but it is necessary to adjust it even better and more precisely according to the locks and gaps.


I will do this when the doors are fully assembled - with glass, electric lifts, moldings, etc. In the meantime, you still need to put all the "shadow line" moldings in order, paint the outer handles, clean the seals, and remove the tint from the glass. A lot of work...

[The_Glory]

Assembly_40. ETK_51_Coating of the luggage compartment

To complete the door assembly, I need to wait for my clip order, get the outer handle mechanisms from electroplating, and paint the "shadow line" overlays. Therefore, in order not to waste time, I return to the rear part.
Body trim

Namely:
Trunk compartment trim


I had the most "rare" side panels of the trunk - the first years of production - carpet with cardboard linings in some places. In normal condition, but at the bottom they were very contaminated with antirust. Also, the right fairing was from the 316, not the 325. The difference is that for the 325, it does not cover the lower niche where the battery is located, and has a special stamping along the wheel arch to pass the battery cable. So, I decided to replace both of them with newer ones - a carpet on a hard plastic base. The condition is good, although I had to glue them a little in several places and clean them well with chemicals. The color of all skins is the same - this makes it easier to find a replacement.
By the way, before restyling and after restyling, the skins are also different - cutouts for rear lights, and a place for attaching a wheel wrench and a towing eye. But I will write about it later.

All the parts together do not fit on the table, so the photo is in parts.

Left side.
Detail No. 1 - left paneling.


On the diagram, on the left side, there is also detail No. 20. This skin is used on cars with an automatic transmission with electronic control. Photo from the Internet.



By the way, I recently wrote here about the bracket that is placed on the left rear wing.


I thought it was for a regular phone. It turned out that I was wrong - it is precisely the ECU of the automatic transmission that is attached to it.
And skin No. 20 closes this bracket together with the ECU of the automatic transmission, which is mounted on the wing.


Thanks to the author of this photo for the information about this bracket.
I never found a photo of the installed skin General Discussion It would be interesting to see.

So, this bracket will definitely not be useful to me.


Although, I still did not understand how it is installed... Apparently, it is necessary to drill holes in the drain near the trunk seal, and in the bracket itself. Doubtful decision, because of discharge of water from the hatch into the thresholds :)


Right side.
Detail No. 2 - right paneling. As you can see, its lower part is cut above the level of the battery niche.


Part No. 10 - battery cover (51 47 1 884 346). After restyling, the cover differs in the edge on the back (51 47 1 971 556). I have it right before restyling - with a smooth rear edge. My cover was pretty scratched up so I decided to clean and paint it. By the way, he also tested the purchased "tornadore" and "chemistry".



I expected a better result.... probably it is better to clean carpets and seats. Therefore, I lightly sanded the covers. Now I am satisfied with the result.


Painted with a special primer and texture paint for plastic. I also liked the result.

Part No. 11 - cover attachment (51 47 1 923 983) for cars up to 1986 - you need not two, but three pieces - an error in the ETC. I had to order.
Parts CSS Examples and Articles are a similar mount, but for cars after 1986. Apparently, there are larger holes, so a plastic insert is used in the hole.
That is, either No. 11 or No. 12+No. 13 is used.
Part No. 14 - plastic protective shield of the battery terminal - prevents accidental closing of the key to the body when twisting the "positive" terminal of the battery.
Detail No. 15 - a clip for securing the shield to the rib of the wheel arch. By the way, the shield is still attached together with the casing of the battery cable with a plastic nut to the pin on the body. This nut is not shown in ETK at all.
Detail No. 16 - lining of the right niche of the trunk. Again, not accurate in ETK - this part is used on cars without a battery in the trunk. Otherwise, it interferes with installing the battery tray. At least I do.
Details No. 17 and No. 18 - it is not clear what it is and why it is needed. No. 17 is no longer available, and I bought No. 18 (51 47 1 872 821), but I never understood what it was for. Some strange hooks. Probably also an error in ETK. But if someone has them installed, please tell me.

Part E34/E28 Forums - an interesting part that I already mentioned when I wrote about the battery - a spacer (51 42 8 129 390)


This is a regular dense foam 90x35x50mm with double-sided tape on the bottom. As I said earlier, it serves as a support for the battery tray, and prevents the opening for the tray attachment from breaking under the weight of the battery. This is such a ridiculously simple factory solution! :) Just stick to the bottom of the niche.


We put the protective shield, fix it with a clip and a plastic nut together with the cable cover.


We put the battery and cover it with a lid. We fix the cover with two clips from below and one on the edge of the arch.


Now not a big addition. There is a special factory option - S428 Emergency stop sign / first aid kit with built-in storage box. But for some reason, the details of this option are not available in ETK. Since it is installed on the battery cover, I will write about it here. The photo above showed another box that I also painted. This is the same "box" - 72 60 1 929 409. I simply chose the size of the clip for fastening and inserting it into the hole.



Although, ETC does not find such a number...
But this option in the assembly - the original first aid kit and an emergency stop sign. I have talked about them before.


The box is placed on the battery cover and fixed with one clip.



As you can see, I haven't installed the side panels yet, as the wiring will still need to be laid behind them. Then I will install them, but for now they just lie in the trunk. As well as a first aid kit and an emergency stop sign.

Back panel.


Detail No. 3 - rear paneling. Just fits snugly between the lights and the plastic top bar.
Detail No. 8 - protective plastic bar.
Part Albums - bar clip (51 48 1 905 599), 4 pieces are required. These are probably the strangest clips I've come across. They need to be hammered in like nails with a sledgehammer! :) And as it seemed to me, it is better to first break off the pin from the clip, insert it again into the hole of the clip, and only then hammer it hard. I was afraid that I would break it, but I nailed it... Fastening for the ages! :)


Trunk partition.


Detail No. 4 - lining of the trunk partition. There is a regular one, with a cutout for a ski cover and for an additional tank. By the way, one of the reasons why I refused to install an additional tank is the lack of this cladding. And without it, the look will not be very aesthetic. My paneling had a lot of extra holes from self-tapping screws - at one time, the previous owner had fixed "music" and a home-made subwoofer there. Later I threw it all out, cut the hole for the subwoofer, and installed a ski cover.


I removed the holes and drilled two additional ones :) The fact is that according to the ETK, this trim is attached with six clips Members Rides (51 48 1 884 779), and it had only four holes for clips from the factory. And in the photo on the Internet, everyone also has four. But six holes are provided on the body. So, I decided to put in six clips, so I made two more holes at the bottom near the hatch for the cover.


Part No. 5 is probably a large metal plug for the hole for the ski cover, in cars where it is not installed.
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Next will be about the lower and upper skins.

[roguetoaster]

Your battery tray and organizer came out well, they're tough things to paint nicely. I think that bracket for the automatic sport knob controller might be a great place to mount a spare parts container of some belts/lights/something else small.

[The_Glory]

yes, it turned out pretty well. I painted the inside of the boxes with matte plastic paint and the outside with textured plastic paint. So they look almost like they once looked new :)

No, I won't be using that bracket. Although it would be possible to transfer the phone there. But I don't have additional skin, so I'll leave it as it was.
Moreover, I definitely don't want to drill holes for it along the drain of the wing so that water can still get there later.