E30 from Ukraine - "Shadow of Intelligence"

[The_Glory]

ABS hydraulic unit

So, - a problem with the brakes.
Looking ahead, I'll say that I created it for myself, and then I bravely fought with it! )))

After pumping, the brakes were there, but bad, "cotton" somehow. I decided to "pump" them in extreme conditions - on the go, with sharp braking. Surprisingly, it seemed to work! The brakes became better, and somewhere after 3-4 times, the wheels even started to lock. I was already happy. And then somewhere on the 5th or 6th time, the pedal suddenly failed... something must have snapped! - I thought )
And I was not mistaken - from under the left headlight a stream of brake fluid flowed... I opened the hood - it was flowing from the ABS hydraulic unit, from the outlet fitting of the rear brake circuit (h).


I drove into the garage, tried to tighten the fitting, - it didn't work. Then I remembered that during assembly, this particular fitting was screwed tightly, but then I didn't attach importance to it. Oh, in vain. I unscrewed it, it looks like everything is fine with the thread.




But I couldn't screw it in anymore - the thread in the hydraulic unit was already damaged. When assembling, I screwed it in crookedly, it held for a while, but during emergency braking it still didn't hold... We tried to thread the place with an M10x1 tap - after that the fitting was screwed in, the tube was fixed. But when I pressed the pedal, the brake fluid no longer gushed out, but simply flowed out through the damaged thread. Fiasco. I clogged the hydraulic unit. ((


I removed it, and it became clear that here it is necessary to either cut a new M12 thread, or look for another hydraulic unit.


There was also an option to install a "spring" - a Chinese repair kit for thread restoration. I almost bought it, but for some reason it did not inspire confidence in me... also in the brakes.
I also do not really like the option with cutting the thread for the M12x1/M10x1 adapter - if small metal shavings get inside, how can I clean them out later? And if they go through the tubes to the calipers?....
That's why I started looking for another hydraulic unit. On Fortunately, it turned out that they are not expensive, and there are many of them on sale, because few people need them. So, I bought an ABS hydraulic unit at a car scrapyard (at the price of a Chinese "spring"). According to the "legend" of the seller, it was brought from Poland and has been in storage for a very long time. The number is exactly the same - BOSCH 0 265 200 013.


I disassembled it a little, washed it, cleaned it, painted it.


Although the numbers are the same, the units have some insignificant differences.




Ready to install.


I installed the hydraulic unit, and here again something went wrong with the thread! Now the problem was with the outlet fitting of the front right brake circuit (r). It did not want to twist at all! Although the broken fitting twisted freely.


The thread on both fittings are normal.


I don't know what the problem was, maybe my hands are crooked... ))) But I really didn't want to screw in another hydraulic unit. Therefore, after struggling with that fitting for two days, I decided to order an adapter (or in this case, rather, a spacer) M10x1/M10x1.
And it worked! The spacer easily screwed into the hydraulic unit, and the fitting easily screwed into the spacer. I don't understand why it didn't screw in without the spacer, but we have what we have! :)


So, the hydraulic unit is installed and screwed in. By the way, before installation, I blew all the brake pipes with a compressor to completely replace the brake fluid, because it looked very dark. Therefore, the entire system needs to be pumped again. We start pumping - and trouble! The hydraulic unit does not pump. Not at all. No way. I stupidly did not blow it.
I remove the hydraulic unit again! )) I try to blow it with a compressor - it does not blow. And then I remember the words of the seller that should have alerted me - "it has been in storage for a long time". The old brake fluid in it has dried to death.
By the way, about the differences - this unit has two additional outputs (or inputs) on top, which are closed with threaded plugs. I thought they were "parallel" with the standard outputs, but they do not blow. I wonder what they are made for?




After soaking with brake fluid poured from a syringe, the rear circuit and the front left circuit began to blow. And I poured the front right circuit with brake fluid, carburetor cleaner, and solvent for several days - no result.


This is such a mess!

I've already started thinking about trying to disassemble this hydraulic unit to clean it. Although it doesn't look very easy to disassemble. I found a video on the Internet. But after watching this video, I realized that it's better for me not to do this, because I'll have to put it back together later... )) There are 100,500 small parts. You also need a specific tool.
Maybe someone will need it.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=TXgrG8hen2Q&pp=ygUHQWJzIGUzMA%3D%3D

So, I'm looking for a third ABS hydraulic unit! ) But, preferably, a working one! ))
And here I got a little lucky. A teammate is building a car for sports/drift, so he completely disconnected the hydraulic unit, because he doesn't need ABS. But until recently it was working. You just need to remove it from the car. We agreed, we removed it. The hydraulic unit is exactly the same as I had before, with the same number, and without those additional fittings.
"Master ABS" )))


Everything is blown out, the brake fluid in it is fresh. Again cleaning, washing, painting.


But there is one nuance - some terrible corrosion of the aluminum body! Just to dust. I don't know what it is from. I cleaned it, and covered it with zinc. Fortunately, it is not through and through! ))




I'm installing the third ABS hydraulic unit. And you think everything went well the third time? Of course not! ))) Again the same problem with the front right circuit fitting! It doesn't turn. It's just some trash! But I already have a miraculous spacer! With it, everything turned without problems!. Such a tricky thing! ))


The brakes were bleeding for a very long time. At first, the brakes were "cottony". Then again a few passes with sharp braking, and again pumping. In the end, the brakes became better, and even ABS started working! Now I not only have it, but it also works! )) Maybe that's why the brakes still seem weak to me, because before, without ABS, it braked much more sharply! )) Or maybe I'm just used to the better brakes in the E53... I'll drive a little, and then we'll see how it brakes... ;)

That's how I've been "having fun" the last few weeks! ) Now I need to go to the rollover/rollover test stand.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_194. ETK_36_Wheel bolt lock with key

Returning to the section Wheels with tires

We will talk about the original "secret" wheel bolts.
The rarest and most interesting option is bolts with a key.
Wheel bolt lock with key




Part #1 - set of locks (36 13 1 182 006) - 1 pc. No longer available for order. The set includes - bolts, locks, covers, keys - 4 pieces each.


In my set, only one original key and one cover were preserved. I also had one "spare" bolt for a long time.


It is not possible to order the key and cover separately, so for a complete set I ordered 4 duplicates of the original key from a key shop. Also, my clubmate made copies of the covers on a 3D printer. Now the set is complete.


The bolt has a head for a standard 17mm wrench, so it tightens like other regular wheel bolts.


We don't pay attention to the condition of the wheel disks. :) The disks will be different, but they still need to be painted. I'll paint these later too.

Insert the key into the lock and put it on the bolt head.


Take out the key - the "secret" is installed. It rotates freely around the bolt and does not allow it to be unscrewed.


I hope that they will be easily removed if necessary.... :)

We close the lock with a plastic cover.


Looks good! ;)

Part No. 2 - set of wheel bolt locks M12X1.5 (36 13 6 786 419) - 1 pc. The set includes - 4 bolts, 4 covers, and 1 adapter.


These same "secrets" are listed in detail in the ETK section
Wheel bolt lock with adapter


There are many types of these "secrets" by the number of teeth with different ETK numbers. Therefore, for convenience, the bolts and the corresponding adapter to them are marked with digital codes - "CODE XX". I don't see any point in rewriting them here, so I won't indicate the numbers.
But I will post a very useful picture, from which you can find out the adapter code by the number of teeth on the bolt. The first two digits are the code, the next two digits are the number of teeth.


At one time, this picture helped me a lot when I lost the adapter and did not know its code. By the way, the code is indicated on the end of the adapter and on the end of the bolts. But when the bolts are tightened, it is problematic to read it.
So, we count the number of teeth on the bolt.
According to the picture, we enter the corresponding code.
By the code, we find the original number in the ETK and order the necessary adapter by it.

Part No. 2 - wheel bolt with code CODE XX - 4 pcs.
Part No. 3 - adapter with code CODE XX - 1 pc.
Part No. 4 - protective cap SW17MM (36 13 1 180 374) - 4 pcs.

By the way, in the photo there are M14x1.5 bolts from E53. I was somehow sure that they were the same, but on E30 they, of course, did not fit. Although, they come with a turnkey of 17 mm or 19 mm.
I will have to buy another set of M12x1.5 turnkey of 17 mm.

Now more modern "secrets" are available - instead of teeth, they have end slots of various shapes.
Wheel bolt lock set


Part #1 - wheel bolt lock set M12x1.5 (36 13 6 792 849) - 1 pc. The set includes - 4 bolts and 1 adapter.
I have come across many negative reviews about the quality of these modern "secrets". They "lick" and do not unscrew.
They were not used in the E30, so I probably will not buy them. I will order later with teeth, while they are still available.

I will write about the wheels later, when I paint at least one set of four.

P.S.
The problem with the power steering was solved quite easily - just one bolt on the steering rack was not tightened. Tightened the bolt, added ATF - everything is OK. I am very glad that everything is fine with the steering rack! )
But the problem with the brakes turned out to be more complicated than I expected. I will write about it when I solve it.

[The_Glory]

TYC Heated Mirrors

I have long written in the relevant section of ETK about heated exterior mirrors. Then I installed my old original mirrors, and the right one was not heated. Later I found the right original heated mirror, but it did not look very good.
And recently I accidentally bought an analogue of the stock mirrors from a teammate - exact copies of the original mirrors, including their mounts - TYC mirrors.


Left 303-0072-1 and right 303-0071-1


There are analogues with a simpler mount, just on latches, but I wanted exactly the mount that was at the factory.


In principle, they are the same, the only difference is the mounting ring turned 180 degrees.


The mirror is installed with the contacts towards the door, and the teeth down. Connect the heating wiring, the "polarity" does not matter.


We install the ring in such a position that four pins are visible.


The pins must fall into the holes on the four "ears" on the mirror adjustment mechanism.


After that, the ring is turned clockwise until it stops and clicks into this position, holding the glass by the "ears".


The ring is turned with a thin screwdriver inserted into the teeth on the ring through a special hole at the bottom of the mirror body.




To remove the glass, you need to turn the ring counterclockwise in the same way.

The heated mirror is installed.


Similarly on the left side.


It looks exactly like the original mirrors, the adjustment works. So far I'm satisfied. How the heating will work, time will tell.

And now briefly about the differences in mirrors.
From top to bottom - TYC analog with heating, original with heating, original and analog without heating.


The mirror glass can be ordinary, spherical, or with a "dead" zone. Each of them can be heated or not. Therefore, in some versions there are critical differences between the left and right sides. Therefore, on the original mirrors there are markings "L unten" and "R unten" - left bottom and right bottom, respectively. As I said, heated mirrors are installed with contacts towards the door. The bottom of the mirror is where there are "teeth" on the mounting ring. The original glass housings differ in the design of the contacts, but this is not critical. On the other hand, a thermistor is built into the housing, which prevents the glass from overheating.


A regular original mirror has exactly the same housing, but without contacts and a thermistor. On the housing of the analogue, there is no place for contacts and a thermistor at all. For these mirrors, it is not fundamentally left or right, it can simply be turned.


But, in fact, in the photo, all three original mirrors are left.


If necessary, the left mirror can be converted to the right, and vice versa. To do this, you need to remove the mounting ring and rotate it 180 degrees.
The glass housing on the side of the heating contacts has a special "tooth" for fixing the glass in the working position (bottom in the photo), and a "tongue" that is a stopper for the ring (top in the photo)


There is a special stop on the ring (between the contacts in the photo)


When installing, the ring is turned clockwise and fixed by this stop by the "tooth" on the housing. If you press the "tongue" on the other side with a thin screwdriver and turn the ring counterclockwise to the stop, the ring will easily be removed from the glass housing.




Turn the ring 180 degrees and install it on the body. Now this is the right mirror - the teeth on the "R unten" side.


I do the same on the heated mirror - now one is left (teeth on the "L unten" side), and the other is right (teeth on the "R unten" side).




Let them be, just in case! )

[The_Glory]

All sorts of little things

I continue to finish all sorts of little things.

The plastic trim of the rear left door was not fixed with clips and kept falling out. The reason is that the wiring niche physically does not accommodate all the harnesses. They protrude above the plane of the holes for the clips.


Apparently, German engineers did not foresee the simultaneous installation of all electrical options! :)
But since 1985, they did correct this situation a little, and made an additional mount to the body at the rear end of the trim. I have exactly such trims - with holes for clips at the end. I have already written about this in the relevant section. But there are no holes in the body, so there is nowhere to put the clips. The same wiring harnesses are preventing me from drilling holes, and on the right side there is a metal pipe for the tank ventilation hoses. And I didn't really want to drill. So I found a suitable plate and made such an "adapter".


Through this "adapter" I fixed the cover with a standard self-tapping screw that fixes the seat back. A bit of a collective farm, but practical. :)


I inserted the front edge of the cover under the B-pillar cover and snapped its clips into the threshold. The cover still didn't turn out straight, but in an arc, due to the large number of wiring harnesses under it. There's nothing you can do...


Although it's not exactly even, the trim now holds up well and doesn't fall out every time you open the door.


There's very little wiring on the right side, so this trim holds up well on the clips, so I left it like that.
At the same time, I installed the plugs on the bolts securing the rear seat belt locks, which I had previously forgotten about all the time.




While I was moving the wiring harnesses there, I found a bad contact in the wire twist for the third brake light. I fixed it, now the indicator light goes out after pressing the brake pedal, as it should be.

I also found the reason why the brake pad indicator light didn't go out. While I was installing the connector mount and fixing it, the wire broke - near the connector of the rear right wheel pad sensor. After all, the wiring is 40+ years old.... I fixed it, - now all the indicator lights work normally.


I decided to fix the muffler properly. Without a lift or inspection pit, it was very inconvenient and very difficult. But I did it, lying under the muffler, with my nose in it! )))
I screwed the bracket to the rear beam and hung the muffler on it with the original rubber ring. I lifted it as high as possible.




The right rubber ring, near the spare wheel niche, became practically problem-free.


And I struggled with the left rubber ring for quite a long time. The bracket was welded a little inaccurately, so the ring did not want to fall into place. But in the end, it did. I had to bend the bracket on the muffler a little, put on the ring, and then align the bracket again.


I was afraid that because of this the muffler would be skewed to the right side, but it turned out to be quite even.


In the relevant section, I already wrote that I bought the stock clamps for the muffler, but it turned out that they were for the M20B20, and the diameter was too small for the M20B25 muffler. Therefore, for now, I left the welded mounts to the muffler. Maybe later I will redo the entire exhaust system.... or maybe not.... ))
The pipes are raised as high as possible, to the body.


Outwardly, it also seems to be more or less even.






That's all for now.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_193. ETC_51_Rubber floor mats

From the moment the car was purchased, rubber floor mats from a BMW E34 were in it. Therefore, this entry will not be entirely correct in relation to the E30, but since rubber floor mats for the E30 have not been available for a long time and are quite rare, I will write it just for information.

ETK section Body trim

Subsection
Foot mats


All GRAU gray mats are no longer available, so I will not list their numbers. Only multi-colored clips for fixing the mats are available.

These clips are also in a separate ETK section, but are only available in black.
Foot mats with locking mechanism


Part #1 - threaded cap ANTHRAZIT (51 47 1 919 171).

These same GRAU gray rubber mats are also shown in the ETK section Retrofitting, accessories

Subsection
Rubber mats


All numbers are similar, and are no longer available. Except for the black clips.

Maybe someday I will be able to find and buy these rubber mats for the E30, just for the collection. After all, the car will not be driven in wet weather and winter.
And for now, the similar rubber mats from the E34 will remain. They are the same gray color GRAU and texture, almost the same shape, and fit perfectly on the floor.






Front. The driver's one has already been rubbed a little, so it is taped.






Rear






So, the rugs are washed, the carpet is clean.








The only nuance with the driver's mat is that it is a little wider in the front, so it covers the left footrest a little. But not critical.


The passenger one fits perfectly.


The rear ones too.




I don't have the mounting clips yet.

This is temporary. I hope... :)
Later I will order a set of original velor mats while they are still available. Along with the mounting clips. But I will write about that separately.
Although, I could have put old pile aftermarket floor mats on the E30, but I didn't want to...


That way there will be more motivation to buy new original ones :)

[The_Glory]

Assembly_192. ETK_71_Warning plate (part 3)

Unexpectedly, another part on the factory plate! )

In the first part, I already wrote that I always had a factory duplicate plate with the VIN code of the car missing. There is a corresponding entry about this in the technical passport of the car. Back in 2008, after buying the car, the previous owner said that the plate was somewhere, and promised to look for it in his garage. But then he never found it, so I drove without it all the time.

But now I installed a new blank plate - just for the general appearance.




As they say, Kyiv is a big village! )) The previous owner must have seen it somewhere on the Internet, I don't know how he found out, and after 17 years he finally found this "native" plate! ) He passed it on to me through our mutual friend - I am very grateful to both him and our friend! )


Along with the plate, I also found the "native" fuel tank hatch in the original PLATANENGRUEN METALLIC paint (188)


The color is beautiful and "old-school", but still "not mine". I'm sure that being in 1984, I wouldn't have bought a new E30 in this color... The condition of the hatch, like the plate, is not ideal, but as an "artifact", it has value for me! )




Maybe when I order a new color for the car, I'll also order the plate. I'll have to order two original rivets again for the price of a package of the same ones at a hardware store. )

[The_Glory]

No smoking!

Earlier, in the relevant section of ETK, I already mentioned a rather rare original option (72 60 1 942 786), - something like a "non-smoking package" - a box for small items that was installed instead of the front ashtray. I have long wanted to find it, or order a new one, while it is still available, and then I accidentally see it at a club flea market for a very nice price. Of course, I bought it! )


Unfortunately, one of the previous owners still used it as an ashtray... Therefore, its condition is not ideal - in places the bottom is melted with cigarettes.


The next owner probably wanted to fix it somehow and glued the bottom with leather or Alcantara.


But the smokers were very persistent, and continued to put out their cigarettes on it!


I peeled off the burnt leather, and cleaned the glue residue as best I could.


I carefully sanded the inside of the box.


The appearance became better, but the bottom melted by cigarettes did not go anywhere...


At first I wanted to putty the bottom and paint it, but then I remembered that I had self-adhesive velvet, and decided to just glue all the inside surfaces with it. It turned out, quite well.




The bottom side remained melted in places, but it is not critical. ETK number 72 60 1 942 786.


Compared to the standard ashtray.




The installation is very simple - we take out the standard ashtray and insert a box for small things in its place.
It looks beautiful and unusual. And with "velvet", it may even be better than just plastic.


The box is illuminated in the same way as the ashtray, but the illumination is always visible. It also looks very nice in the dark!


I really like this little thing! )
I have never allowed anyone to smoke cigarettes in my car, and I will not allow this thing to do so. The rear ashtray has also lost its direct function - I installed the rear seat heating buttons in it. And now the front ashtray is also missing. I can also install the original plastic plug from later BMW models instead of the lighter, but I will probably leave it. Firstly, the plug was not used in the E30, and secondly, it is a gift from a friend, and its condition is like new.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_192. ETC_71_Warning plate (part 2)

So, let's start sticking all the stickers. I won't repeat their numbers - they are indicated in the previous part.

I'll start with the engine compartment.

The factory plate is attached to special holes above the right headlight with two rivets. "Clean sheet"! :)


The body color sticker is glued to the side on the left support. I glued the original sticker.


The sticker of the original parts is glued to the left support.


I glued it as high as possible so that the sticker would not cover the oil filler cap.


I glued the sticker according to the engine oil replacement regulations to the right headlight shield.

I don't know where it was glued at the factory. In the photo, I only saw it on the "sharks" on the hood. I have soundproofing there, so I glued it wherever I found a place, closest to the filler neck. - it seems logical, right? )


The air conditioner sticker is glued to the right headlight grille, or to the right headlight shield. I already have a sticker on the shield, so I glued this one to the grille.


The large high voltage sticker is glued to the right support.


The small high voltage sticker is glued to the ignition coil.


The ATF Oil sticker is glued to the power steering reservoir cover.


Girling dual vacuum brake booster sticker


A sticker according to the belt replacement regulations. I will write the dates and mileage later.


Hella Black Headlight Sticker
Low Beam


High Beam


Left Headlights


Right Headlights


I have a few left extra stickers.
The black sticker of the original parts on cars from 88 with the M40 engine replaced the orange one on the left support. On all touring it was glued to the right in front of the radiator. Therefore, it will probably be superfluous.


The sticker according to the antifreeze replacement regulations is also superfluous, since the factory did not use "long-life" antifreeze on the E30. Although, if you pour it in, you can stick it here...


The small high-voltage sticker from 91 replaced the large one on the right support. You can stick it on the high-voltage wire shield, but it's probably also unnecessary )


So all the stickers in the engine compartment are glued. Final look:






Let's move on to the trunk.

I recently mentioned the sticker on the Bilstein jack - I glued it.

Replaced the jack.


I stuck the sticker according to the battery replacement regulations on the battery cover. I don't know where it was glued at the factory. It seems logical, right? )




The stickers on the taillight housing are glued inside the housing.




The roadside assistance sticker is glued to the tool box, or to the trunk lid. I glued it to the box.




A set of two stickers for the hatch and the fuel tank cap. The red stickers were mainly on the lids with a lock.


I glued the red one to the lid, and I have the original white one on the hatch.




Although, maybe it's worth replacing it with a red one...


Maybe I'll replace it.


Let's move on to the interior.

Tire pressure sticker for the 325i, glued to the bottom left B-pillar of the body.


The sticker for the "break-in" mode for the first 2000 km is glued to the upper left corner of the windshield.


The ABS sticker is glued to the dashboard under the high beam lamp.


The sticker for using only unleaded gasoline is glued to the dashboard under the fuel gauge. Mine is in English, like all the inscriptions on the instruments.


The manual transmission gear diagram sticker is glued to the handbrake console.


The airbag sticker is glued to the top flap of the glove box.

Although my airbag is not fully installed, but it is there, so let there be a sticker! :)


On the left side of the shield, there may still be a sticker on the cabin filter replacement regulations. But if there is air conditioning, it is not possible to install a cabin filter, so this sticker will not be there.

Seat adjustment stickers are glued to the side seat shields. I have the original stickers well preserved, so I left them for now.




I also have the M-Technic stickers on the seat plates in good condition, so I left them for now.

Although, the colors on the copies are a little different. I bought the original plates new, but the sticker on the driver's seat started to rub off very quickly. I covered them with transparent film so that they wouldn't rub off at all.

The sticker for the standard alarm system is glued to the glass of the front door, above the door handle. I bought these stickers original.


I stuck them on both front doors.




So, all the factory stickers are stuck on.

There are two "bonus" stickers left, and one club one. I also decided to stick the Ukraine UA sticker. I have a lot of them - a collection from my student days, when they were given out at all sorts of car shows ))




A little "black" humor from the "gangster" 90s )))


Probably glued somewhere in a prominent place in the trunk )) But I probably won't glue it... )


RESPECT YOUR ELDERS is probably a "classic"! )




UA


And of course, the club "name" sticker!


That's all for the stickers.


P.S.
There might be something more for the BBS stickers later...

[The_Glory]

Assembly_192. ETK_71_Warning plate (part 1)

The car is almost completely assembled. Only the "final touches to the portrait" remain - factory stickers. Most of them are no longer available for order, so I ordered exact copies. I ordered all that I could find, even many extra ones.


Of the original ones, I only had a few pieces in poor condition, so of course I replaced them too.


So, back to the ETK section Spare parts+accessories

Subsection Warning plate





Part #1 - ALU factory plate (51 14 2 121 107) - 1 pc. Aluminum duplicate plate with the VIN code of the car. I always had it missing. In the office of the official BMW dealer, they told me that it is not possible to order a "number" plate for old models. They cannot put my number on it either. Therefore, I ordered a blank plate - just for the general appearance. ;)


Part No. 4 - blind rivet 3.2 2A (07 12 9 948 747) - 2 pcs. Rivet for attaching the nameplate. Regular rivets 3.2x6.4 mm. For the price of two pieces, you can buy a whole package of the same ones in a hardware store :)

Part No. 2 - "Batterie" label (51 14 1 806 553) - 1 pc. Not available for order. Sticker for replacing the battery.
Part No. 2 - "Motoroel" label (51 14 1 822 234) - 1 pc. Not available for order. Sticker for replacing the lubricant.
I have never seen these two stickers live on the car, so I am not sure where exactly they were glued, but they were there until 86.

Part #2 - "Original BMW Teile" label (51 14 1 827 417 or 51 14 2 121 500) - 1 pc. Not available for order. Orange sticker original parts on the left front suspension strut.
Since 88 on cars with the M40 engine and on touring it was replaced with a black sticker (2 121 173). The black sticker (2 121 174) was not used on the E30, it is for later models.

Part No. 2 - "Einfahrvorschrift" label (51 14 2 121 181) - 1 pc. Transparent "running-in" sticker on the upper left corner of the windshield.

Part No. 3 - "Tsz Anlage" label (51 14 1 363 259) - 1 pc. Not available for order. Yellow high voltage sticker on the right front suspension strut until 87.
Part No. 3 - "Tsz Anlage" label (51 14 2 121 919) - 1 pc. Not available for order. Yellow sticker high voltage on the ignition coil.
Part No. 3 - Nameplate "Tsz Anlage" (71 21 2 122 014) - 1 pc. Yellow sticker high voltage on the right front suspension strut from 91.

Part No. 5 - Nameplate 5-speed gearbox (51 14 2 121 028) - 1 pc. Not available for order. Black sticker on the handbrake console.

Part No. 6 - 5-speed sports gearbox label (51 14 2 121 134) - 1 pc. Not available for order. Black sticker on the handbrake console. Not used in my case.
Part No. 7 - "Bleifreier Kraftstoff" label (51 14 2 121 497) - 1 pc. White or red sticker on the fuel filler flap.

Part No. 7 - "Nur bleifrei Tanken" label (51 14 2 121 638) - 1 pc. Transparent sticker for the dashboard. It was available in different languages. I ordered in English (51 14 2 121 684).
I also ordered all the options for stickers for the fuel cap, although for some reason they are missing from the ETK. White early (2 122 072), white late (2 122 182), red for the lid with a lock (2 121 497). For diesel cars, red stickers for the hatch (2 121 408) and the lid (2 121 632).

Body color stickers in individual ETK sections:

Plain paint


Paint metallic




My BMW color is Pur Blau Metallic - 253/5. Only the BMW Z1 was painted in this color as standard at the factory, and for other BMW models it was only available in the "Individual" line. Therefore, this sticker does not make it into the ETK for the E30. I ordered it, as for the Z1! ;)

Part #1 - Metallic paint PUR BLAU (71 21 2 122 025) - 1 pc. Black sticker on the left front suspension strut. Below is a copy in the photo - there are some differences.


These were the basic stickers, and there are many more regulatory and optional stickers. Most of them are not in the ETK, or they are no longer available. Therefore, I will not write their numbers.
Stickers tire pressure, belt replacement, airbag, alarm, roadside assistance, ABS, unleaded gasoline, air conditioning, taillight covers and headlights, jack, vacuum brake booster, seat adjustment, power steering, manual transmission with ATF, M-seat plates.


White stickers on Hella and Hella Black headlights, yellow stickers on Bosch headlights, white stickers on early taillight covers.


Orange ATF Oil stickers on the power steering reservoir cover and on the late manual transmission housing.


Blue stickers on the ATE vacuum brake booster, and a yellow sticker on the Girling dual vacuum brake booster.


So, I removed all the unnecessary stickers, and got this set of stickers for my E30.


Stickers under the hood (if the battery is under the hood)


Stickers in the interior.


Stickers in the trunk (if the battery is in the trunk).


I'll write about the gluing in the second part.

[The_Glory]

BILSTEIN jack

I have already written about the standard jack in the relevant section of the ETK, but I will briefly repeat it.
Basically, the E30 was equipped with a Storz jack (71 12 1 178 721). But some cars were equipped with a Bilstein jack (71 12 1 178 722). What is strange is that the diagram in the ETK shows this particular jack, but its number is missing in the ETK. Probably another mistake.
For restyled cars with M-Technic II sills, there was a special Storz jack (71 12 1 180 172), with a wider "paw".

So, recently I wrote that I purchased a Bilstein Heber jack.




But it needed to be brought into proper shape. Cleaned and sanded.


Painted it matte black.


Bottom rubber buffer and top plastic cover.


The gears are made in the form of flat "stars".


We lubricate the gears and shaft with graphite grease, install a rubber buffer at the bottom, and cover the gears with a plastic cover.






Bilstein Heber


BMW 71 12 1 178 722


Load capacity 700 kg


You might be asking, why do I need another jack when I already have one, completely restored?
The thing is, I bought factory stickers for the E30, and the kit included a sticker for the jack. Judging by the photo on the Internet, this sticker was glued to Bilstein Heber jacks. In principle, nothing prevents me from sticking this sticker on the Storz jack. But, firstly, it's not entirely correct. And secondly, my jack is not completely complete, it lacks a gear cover. That's why I decided to buy a Bilstein Heber jack for this sticker! :) I like it better in appearance.
So, two standard jacks for BMW E30, - on the left Storz BMW 71 12 1 178 721, and on the right Bilstein Heber BMW 71 12 1 178 722 (with a sticker! :) )






Bilstein Heber


Storz


There are no fundamental differences between them.


Storz BMW 71 12 1 178 721


Bilstein Heber BMW 71 12 1 178 722


Both jacks are fixed in the trunk the same way.

Next time I'll probably write about the stickers.

[The_Glory]

Temporary bumper

Since there was a delay in painting the bumpers, I decided to temporarily install my old bumper so that I had something to screw the front turn signals and license plates to and could safely hit the road.
It's a good thing that I had previously painted this bumper along with the plastic. So I took it off my "nightstand", installed the glued old trim, and the clips for the license plate.




Top trim and turn signals. Since this is temporary, I didn't install the side plastic trim.






I once straightened this bumper as best I could after a traffic accident - it looks something like this... You can see how crooked it is... but it will be like that for the first time.


Although, from afar, on the car, it still looks more or less normal! Even in matte black :)


But if you look closely, everything is crooked )) I didn't install the side panels.


I also temporarily screwed the license plates with club frames with regular self-tapping screws. Then I'll install the original ones with colored plugs.




The same goes for the rear numbers. For now, it will be without a rear bumper.




Now I can go outside my street! :)

[The_Glory]

Assembly_191. ETC_51_Emblems - inscriptions

Basically, the car is completely assembled (bumpers on pause ;) ). The last step is to install the BMW emblems.
So, the ETK section Body trim

Subsection Emblems - lettering





Of course, I ordered new emblems.


The old emblems were original, from those times, but their condition and appearance were no longer very good.


Inside


Part No. 1 - Emblem Ø 82MM (51 14 8 132 375) - 1 pc. This emblem has been used since 1990 on many BMW models.

Before this, the emblem had a different number (51 14 1 872 324), and differed in the inner part and had the inscription BOMISA MILANO. No longer available for order.

Part #1 - Trunk emblem (51 14 1 872 969) - 1 pc. Used only on E28, E30 and Z3 M3.2.

Early emblems have a similar number, but differ in the inner part.

The peculiarity of this emblem is its shape - different thickness at the top and bottom - under the bend of the trunk lid.

Part No. 2 - Tip (51 14 1 902 279) - 4 pcs. White plastic clips for fixing emblems. There is a note in the ETK - when using the modern front emblem (51 14 8 132 375), you need to use other tips (51 14 1 807 495) - black plastic clips. I don't understand why, because they are the same diameter and are essentially interchangeable. But I ordered two of each, both white and black.
Part No. 3, No. 5, No. 10 - not used. These are nameplates for the diesel and turbodiesel models "324d" and "324td" with the M21D24 engine.
Part No. 6 - not used. This is a nameplate for the "325e" model with the M20B27 engine.
Part No. 4 - "325" emblem (51 14 1 924 867) - 1 pc. In my case, it is not used.
Part No. 7 - "i" emblem (51 14 1 916 137) - 1 pc. In my case, it is not used.
These are nameplates for the "325i" model with the M20B25 engine.
For the US market, there were "sports" versions of "325is" and "325es"
The factory configuration of my car has the option "S320 No model designation". So, if the factory did not have a 316 nameplate, then there is no point in installing the 325i nameplate. Although, now it is a full-fledged 325i.
By the way, I always wondered if it was necessary to pay extra money for this option? :)
Part No. 8 - not used. This is a nameplate for the all-wheel drive model "325ix" with the M20B25 engine.
Part No. 9 - The letter "M" rear (51 14 1 917 739) and front (72 60 1 933 569) - 2 pcs. This is a nameplate "///M", which could be installed on cars that have a "sports package", "M-package", or some of their options. Photo from the Internet.




My car has options from the "M-package", so the "///M" nameplates have every right to be present on it. But these are either suspension parts or interior parts. Externally, the M-Technic I body kit is missing, so the letters "///M" probably won't be there. Or maybe later I'll order them and install them for beauty! ) I used to have "///M3" nameplates! ))
Part #11 - M TECHNIC emblem front (51 14 2 231 593) and rear (51 14 2 251 228) - 2 pcs. Not used. These are nameplates only for the special series of M-Design convertibles from 1992. Not available for order. Although, now replicas can be seen on sedans, but this is not correct. Photo from the Internet.




So, I'm installing the emblems. I started with the rear one.
Insert the white clips into the holes on the trunk.


Insert the emblem tightly into the clips.




BMW


The same goes for the front emblem.


We insert the black clips into the holes on the hood. By the way, the black clips went into the holes very tightly!


We insert the emblem tightly into the clips.


Well, now it's definitely clear that this is a BMW! :)




Done.

I'll screw on the license plates and I can hit the roads! )

[The_Glory]

It really turned out to be a gorgeous car. If those two big gouges on the strut bar really bug you, it would probably take a few minutes with a TIG welder to fill them in. Since they're just cosmetic and a ton of penetration isn't needed it wouldn't have a big heat affected zone and weaken the bar either.

Thanks for the tip, maybe I'll do that later.

[varg]

It really turned out to be a gorgeous car. If those two big gouges on the strut bar really bug you, it would probably take a few minutes with a TIG welder to fill them in. Since they're just cosmetic and a ton of penetration isn't needed it wouldn't have a big heat affected zone and weaken the bar either.

[The_Glory]

Eibach front strut

Once upon a time, a long time ago, I made a set of struts according to the factory dimensions of the BMW E30 - front, rear and middle (analogous to the Cabrio).
I posted my drawings on the club forum. Many people have already used them - there seem to be no complaints :)
I painted the rear and middle ones and installed them a long time ago - I wrote about this earlier.
During the restoration of the car, I managed to find and buy an original aluminum Eibach front strut for the BMW E30. Just in the kit for the Eibach springs. And now, finally, it's time to install it. The strut is intact, but not in perfect condition - it has small, but in places deep scratches, and traces of aluminum oxide.


Unfortunately, the scratches are right on the logo... Eibach Kit Nr 2003920


So, I had to work hard to bring it into proper shape.
First, I sanded it down and bought new mounting bolts.


It became dull and very shabby. At first, I even thought that I had overdone it! )




You can't do anything with deep scratches. There's no point in sanding down such a layer of aluminum. Unless you putty and paint it. But it has to be polished, so it will be.


For polishing, I bought a set of special pastes, a textile polishing wheel and an adapter for it.


Before polishing, I manually sanded the surfaces with 600 grit sandpaper to remove roughness. You can see the difference in the photo.


Now I can start polishing.


I polished in five passes with all the pastes in turn - black, gray, green, white, blue. It took quite a lot of time and effort. But the result suits me quite well.


I'll say right away that I didn't set a goal to polish the aluminum to a "mirror" finish so that you could shave on it! )) I just wanted to make a slightly shiny surface. I even thought about stopping after the white paste. After all, there is no mirror chrome on the car, so it's not very appropriate here, in my opinion. But, it still turned out pretty shiny! ))


I bought new M8x70 bolts and nuts for mounting the pipe. I bought the original nuts for mounting the flanges a long time ago (07 11 9 904 295).


Screw the spacer flanges to the support bearing studs. Left and right are not interchangeable.
Left


Right


Install and screw the spacer tube.


It fits well, doesn't get in the way and doesn't get stuck anywhere.






Eibach Kit Nr 2003920. Scratches spoil the appearance a little, but do not affect the functionality.


There is a cutout on the spacer flange for standard mounting of the "mass" of the motor wiring to the body, but I do not have this bracket - I forgot about it when the car was undergoing bodywork...
Previously, my "mass" terminal was screwed together with a homemade spacer to the support bearing stud. The Eibach strut has special stampings for the nuts, so the terminal doesn't fit there well.


So, I had to move the "mass" terminal mounting lower, to the platform. There is a rectangular stamping with a threaded hole there, which is ideal for this. It seems that it was made for this. Maybe it is?..


It looks even better this way - the wiring is hidden under the platform.

Now I can go to the stand to check and adjust the camber and toe angles.
Only the license plates need to be screwed on ;)