E30 from Ukraine - "Shadow of Intelligence"

[The_Glory]

Assembly_182. ETK_3_Replacement lamp block

I have already written about lighting parts a long time ago. In ETK there is a replacement lamp block (72 60 8 361 986) - part number 19 on the diagram.


In ETK it is also in the section
Retrofitting, accessories

Spare bulb box


Part #1 - spare bulb box

It has not been available for order for a long time, so it is difficult to find it (photo from the Internet).


There are even later versions, but they are also no longer available, or are sold on eBay for $50-150 - very expensive, in my opinion. For example, such a block.


But recently, a colleague in the club offered me a new lamp block for a symbolic amount of money, which visually looks very similar to the original. I bought it, just in case - it looks like the original option, and may be suitable for its intended purpose! ;)


The lamps are not quite what you need.


So I re-equipped the unit with the necessary spare bulbs and fuses.


It will be in the trunk just in case. ;)


P.S.
Today I pick up my order with all the necessary technical fluids and lubricants, fill it in, and I will try to start the engine. I still need to buy some gasoline, because it definitely won't start! :)

[The_Glory]

Assembly_181. ETK_41_Body (Front wing) continued

At the beginning of the assembly, I wrote about the ETK section
Front wing


I also wrote about its details. Then I temporarily installed the wings. And now, finally, they are installed permanently, on sealant.






Top mount with seven screws.


Bottom mount with two screws.


Rear mount with two screws.




Front mounting with one self-tapping screw under the headlight, and one self-tapping screw under the bumper, near the wheel arch.


The top joint of the wing with the body, and the joint of the engine shield rib must be covered with body sealant. Otherwise, water will get under the hood. Later, I will paint the sealant in the body color, as it was from the factory.


Installing the hood seal and fender seals.




For the BMW E30 M3 Evo III, additional rubber seals were glued to the fenders to close the gap between the fender and the hood.
Left seal (51 71 2 233 121) and right seal (51 71 2 233 122). They are unreasonably expensive - 60 Euros apiece, so maybe someday I'll pick up something similar - they look better.
Now you can also install protective fenders.


Mounting for them.


Plastic clips are inserted into special square holes on the body. During welding work, the master thought it was easier to weld a pin than to make a square hole :). Therefore, instead of a clip and a screw, I will have a pin and a plastic nut at the bottom - like on the upper mount. I think this is not critical.


The top two studs.


The front two mounting plates for self-tapping screws.


I covered the self-tapping screws that secure the BBS body kit from the inside with rubber sealant.


We install the plastic shield, screw it into the clip at the bottom with a plastic nut and a self-tapping screw.


We fasten two plastic nuts from above.


We fasten one self-tapping screw from the front.


The second self-tapping screw and the hole in the shield are for attaching the lower plastic shield. It will be installed later, since first I will need to install the air conditioning compressor


and the power steering pump.


On the left, everything is similar.








The fog lights are already installed and connected. It was necessary to somehow fix the outside temperature sensor for the on-board computer. Since I don't have a standard front spoiler and standard restyled air ducts, there is no place to install the sensor. There is also no place for it in the BBS apron. So, I had to come up with something on the spot. The hole in the front apron for attaching the standard spoiler was a great fit for the sensor.


On the other hand, I put a rubber ring (13 64 1 730 767) for fuel injectors on the sensor - it fit perfectly and fixed the sensor in the hole. The sensor was perfectly positioned.


Later, this will still be covered with the lower plastic shield.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_180_ETK_18_Exhaust system with catalyst. Rear part

Rear exhaust system




Part #1 - rear additional muffler (18 10 1 705 783) - 1 pc. I have the Polish analogue Polmostrov installed.

Part No. 2 - rubber ring (18 21 1 105 635) - 1 pc. I use the BOSAL 255766 analogue
Part No. 3 - intake pipe bracket (18 21 1 712 511) - 1 pc.
Part No. 4 - bolt with washer M8X16 (07 11 9 913 214) - 1 pc. Bracket attachment to the rear beam.

Part No. 5 - bracket (18 20 1 707 925) - 1 pc. Clamp for mounting the muffler.
Part No. 6 - bracket (18 20 1 178 132) - 1 pc. Clamp for mounting the muffler.
Part No. 7 - bracket (18 21 1 176 029) - 2 pcs. Clamp for mounting the muffler.
Part No. 8 - nut with a collar M8 (07 11 9 927 022) - 4 pcs.
Part No. 9 - rubber ring (18 21 1 712 838) - 2 pcs.

Part No. 10 - exhaust pipe nozzle 60 MM, chrome (82 11 9 401 456), or black (82 11 9 401 457) - 2 pcs. I have decided not to buy nozzles yet, since I still do not fully understand what the exhaust system will be like after its replacement. If I install nozzles, then black ones - in the general "shadow line" style.

There are clamps for mounting the muffler in the photo, but there is a nuance. As it turned out, for an exhaust system without a catalyst, they are slightly smaller, because the muffler is narrower there. There are also structural differences - one of them consists of three parts, and the second - of two. Due to my carelessness, I bought just such clamps.
Exhaust system without catalyst





Part No. 4 - clamp (118 21 1 707 923) - 1 pc. Clamp for mounting the muffler.
Part No. 5 - clamp (18 21 1 176 713) - 2 pcs. Clamp for mounting the muffler.
Part No. 6 - rear muffler bracket (18 21 1 176 033) - 1 pc. Muffler mounting clamp.
Part No. 7 - M8 flange nut (07 11 9 927 022) - 4 pcs.

Part No. 9 - clamp (18 21 1 176 712) - 1 pc. Muffler mounting clamp.


The muffler for the exhaust system with a catalyst is wider, so the clamps do not fit very well.




I'm not sure if I can install them. So for now, I'll temporarily install the muffler on the old mount that's welded directly to the muffler. I'll try to find the right clamps for the exhaust system with a catalytic converter, and install them when I replace it.
But to hang the muffler on those rubber rings, you need a helper and a lift. Because I couldn't do it myself, lying on the floor, no matter how hard I tried... So again - temporary mounting...


So, the exhaust system is installed temporarily, on a temporary mounting, - so that the car can drive itself to the exhaust system service center, where everything will be redone. I hope that this will be done as soon as possible after the car leaves.

Now everything is ready for the first test run of the engine. I will fill in new oil, antifreeze, and soon I will try...

[The_Glory]

Assembly_179_ETK_18_Exhaust system with catalyst. Front part

For the M20B25 engine, there are two types of exhaust systems - without a catalyst and with a catalyst.
Exhaust system

They differ both in design and in mounting. Both systems consist of two parts - front and rear.
I have a system with a catalyst installed. Although, I stupidly cut out the catalyst and replaced it with stronger ones, and the entire system was combined into one whole.
So, the front part of the exhaust system with a catalyst.
Exhaust system with catalyst




Part #1 - catalyst intake pipe (11 76 1 716 743) - 1 pc. In my case, the catalyst was replaced with a double stronger one.

Part No. 2 - copper nut M10 (18 30 1 737 774) - 6 pcs. I use TRUCKTEC 0839054 nuts
Part No. 3 - sealing gasket (11 76 1 711 7170 - 2 pcs. I use FEBI 01610
Part No. 4 - manual transmission intake pipe bracket (11 76 1 716 360) - 1 pc. Consists of two parts. For the version without a catalyst and for automatic transmission, the fastening is different.
Part No. 5 - A8.4 washer (33 31 1 108 205) - 2 pcs. Fasteners to the gearbox.
Part No. 6 - M8X20 bolt (07 11 9 903 039) - 2 pcs. Fasteners to the gearbox.
Part No. 7 - M8X25 bolt (07 11 9 915 171) - 1 pc. Fasteners pipes. The thread in the bracket was damaged, so I cut a new M10 thread, and replaced the bolt with M10X25.
Part No. 8 - bolt M8X35 (07 11 9 913 676) - 1 pc. Bracket mounting.
Part No. 9 - washer A8.4 (33 31 1 108 205) - 2 pcs. Bracket mounting.
Part No. 10 - hinge bushing D=8MM (18 20 7 546 579) - 4 pcs. Rubber bushing of the bracket.
Part No. 11 - nut M8 (07 12 9 964 675) - 2 pcs. Mounting bracket.

Part No. 12...No. 15 - not used.
Part No. 16 - lambda probe 4-POL/540MM (11 78 1 716 114) - 1 pc. For restyled cars after 87 has a different connector.

Part No. 17 - protective casing (11 78 1 710 590) - 1 pc.

The original shield is no longer available for order. I couldn't find it at flea markets either, so I made it myself :) I already wrote about it last time.

If someone has an original one, I would buy it.
Part No. 18, No. 19 - are not used. The error in the ETK is the mount for fixing the lambda probe connector for restyled cars.
Part No. 20 - terminal D=6MM (63 12 1 364 431) - 1 pc. Plastic clip for fixing the lambda probe wiring.
Part No. 21 - terminal D=4.5MM (61 13 1 353 865) - 1 pc. Metal clip for fixing the lambda probe wiring.
Part No. 22...No. 26 - in my case is not used, since the front and rear parts of the exhaust system are combined into one whole.

We fasten the intake pipe to the exhaust manifolds with copper nuts (No. 2).


It is not very convenient to fasten, because of these "crutches" and welds. But this is temporary, I have hope ;)


We install the metal clip (No. 21) on the protective shield (No. 17).




The lambda probe is already installed on the intake pipe, so we snap the protective cover onto it.




We fix the lambda probe wiring in the metal clip (No. 21).


On the engine shield, insert the clip (No. 20) into the plastic nut, and fix the wiring in it.


In addition, I fixed the wiring on another such nut.


Connect the lambda probe connector to the engine wiring under the body platform.


Assemble the bracket, through the rubber bushings.






We fasten the bracket to the gearbox with two bolts.




We fasten the pipe to the bracket with one bolt. The mount on the pipe was already homemade, so it didn't match the hole on the bracket. I had to make a temporary "adapter".


So, the front part of the exhaust system is fixed. This is all temporary, I hope that after the car leaves, I will redo it all at the exhaust system repair shop.

More about the rear part of the exhaust system.

P.S.
Exhaust systems without a catalyst have a different design and mounting parts. There are also two types.
Preparation for a catalyst.

Without a catalyst.


Accordingly, I do not consider them.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_178_ETK_18_Exhaust system (preparation)

So, it's time to deal with the exhaust system. As I wrote earlier, I had to abandon the idea of installing a Chinese equal-length exhaust manifold Turbo Works made of stainless steel, for the reason that it physically did not fit the E30.
I also mentioned that I bought an original equal-length exhaust manifold Sebring, but it still needs to be brought into proper condition.
Therefore, I decided to postpone the "tuning" until better times, and for now, install my old exhaust system, without changes. Just clean and paint it. It looked like this.


I replaced the rear part almost immediately after buying the car, somewhere in 2010-2012. It was a new analogue of the muffler from the Polish manufacturer Polmostrov. What can I say about it now - great! After 12-14 years it looks quite decent, practically without corrosion.


In the front part, I then cut out the catalyst, and installed a double straight-flow stainless steel stronger in its place, also from the Polish manufacturer AWG. The stronger is also preserved in excellent condition.


Then the "masters" welded hooks directly to the muffler, instead of the factory clamps, and welded the entire line into one piece. I don't know why I agreed to it then... probably out of stupidity! )) But, we have what we have.. )
And the front part was "repaired" by the previous owners of the car... They replaced the corrugation with a regular pipe insert. Apparently after that, the flanges started to come off. They welded "crutches" to the flange. After that, the joint of the pipe insert cracked )) I've wanted to do something about it for a long time, but I still couldn't get my hands on it. My friend even gave me the front part with the corrugation in good condition. But it's still lying around with me. Now maybe I'll replace it. Or maybe I'll just replace the whole system.... we'll see...
I couldn't unscrew the lambda probe, and there was no point in doing so. I put a new one in then, I hope it still works fine...


So, for now, I'm just cleaning the surface mechanically with brushes.




Then sandblast


Much better. Found only three tiny holes in the welds. Welded them.




After that, I treated it with a rust converter, and degreased it with anti-silicone before painting.




I painted it with heat-resistant zinc paint in two layers.








Almost like new! )

Now about the mount. To the gearbox, the pipes were screwed using some homemade bracket. I found the original bracket. Moreover, they are different for the version with and without a catalyst. I had a catalyst. Therefore, I bought a bracket specifically for this option.




Of course, I sanded and galvanized. At the same time, some other details too.


I have the rear mount welded directly to the muffler. Just in case, I found and bought the original clamps for mounting the muffler. But, as it turned out, they are also different for a system with and without a catalyst.
I mistakenly bought one for a system without a catalyst.






The muffler is a little smaller, so the clamps don't fit very well.




I'm not sure if I can install a muffler on them, but just in case, I sanded them, primed them, and painted them.




And one more detail - a protective shield for the lambda probe (11 78 1 710 590).


I didn't have it at all. The new one is no longer available for order. Oddly enough, I couldn't find it in any of the flea markets, although it was installed on almost all E30, E32, E34... Where did they all go, I don't understand... If someone has an extra one, I would buy it. So, I asked a friend to measure its dimensions, and made it myself from galvanized sheet metal.
It turned out quite similar, as far as I'm concerned! ;)




I used the clamp that is used to fix the rear drain hoses of the hatch (54 12 1 874 589) - I just had extra ones left.
It fit perfectly, it fixes clearly and firmly.


So, the exhaust system and its mounts are ready for installation.
More on installing it on the car.

[The_Glory]

Second this. Those photos are very helpful to me, as I have an early car and adding late car stuff.

I'm very glad that you found it useful and interesting! So I didn't write in vain! )

[The_Glory]

This project is really something else. I don't think I've ever seen so many photos in a r3v thread, the car looks great and I love the color. Good use of 3D printing on the unavailable parts as well. Some day I want to do a nice restoration on my E30 like this. And happy belated birthday to your E30

And I immediately warned that there would be a LOT of photos and a detailed description, according to the ETK! )
Thanks for the congratulations! )

[Holland]

This project is really something else. I don't think I've ever seen so many photos in a r3v thread, the car looks great and I love the color. Good use of 3D printing on the unavailable parts as well. Some day I want to do a nice restoration on my E30 like this. And happy belated birthday to your E30

Second this. Those photos are very helpful to me, as I have an early car and adding late car stuff.

[varg]

This project is really something else. I don't think I've ever seen so many photos in a r3v thread, the car looks great and I love the color. Good use of 3D printing on the unavailable parts as well. Some day I want to do a nice restoration on my E30 like this. And happy belated birthday to your E30

[The_Glory]

Assembly_177_ETK_51_Body Trim. Decorative Grille

Back to the ETK section
Body Trim

Finally, I can install the decorative grilles.
Decorative grille




Part No. 1 - decorative grille, medium - 1 pc. There are three types:
Grille for air conditioning (51 13 1 945 877) - with slots along the entire height of the grille. For cars with air conditioning, or for countries with a tropical climate.
Standard grille (51 13 1 884 350) - with slots not for the entire height of the grille.
Winter grille (51 13 1 916 504) - a "blank" grille, without slots. For winter operation, or for countries with a cold climate.

I have all three types, but now I will install an air conditioner grille. I also have another "aftermarket" option - the KAMEI grille, I may write about it later.
All types of grilles in the original were only chrome-plated, even in the "Shadow line" package. But I made myself a black grille a long time ago and in body color. Accordingly, now I painted one in body color. The KAMEI grille will be black. I will change them according to my mood, along with the headlight rings! ;)
The winter grille will not work now - this car will not be driven in the winter. It will just be for the collection.


Part No. 2 - decorative grille left (51 13 1 876 091) - 1 pc.
Part No. 3 - decorative grille right (51 13 1 876 092) - 1 pc.
Depending on the year of manufacture and engine model, the left and right grilles have different shapes and sizes of slots. After restyling, they have an additional cutout on top for access to the parking light bulbs. For the US market, the grilles have additional cutouts in the upper edge for replacing headlight bulbs.
Part No. 4 - self-tapping screw ST3.9X13 (07 14 7 202 502) - 4 pcs. Side grille mounting, - two pieces on the left and right grilles.
Part No. 5 - tip 12X6.3 (51 13 1 840 154) - 4 pcs. Clip for mounting side grilles, - two pieces on the left and right grilles.
Part No. 6 - bracket (51 13 1 872 146) - 8 pcs. Top mounting of side and middle grilles.

Part No. 7 - decorative grille left (51 13 1 904 571) and right (51 13 1 904 572) - 2 pcs. Upper ventilation grilles.
Part No. 8 - bracket (51 13 1 904 575) - 6 pcs. Upper ventilation grilles fastening.
Part No. 9 - fog light hole plug left (51 71 1 933 767) and right (51 71 1 933 768) - 2 pcs. Before 85, the plugs were plastic, and from 85 to 87, they were metal. Not interchangeable. In my case, they are not used, since fog lights are installed.
Part No. 10 - bracket (51 71 1 933 759). Not used.
Part No. 11 - air intake for restyled cars. Not used in this case.
Part No. 12 - adhesive tape 15X15 (51 13 1 916 525) - 2 pcs. Grille seal. I cut them out of similar material, because their price is too high, in my opinion.
Part No. 13...15 - air intake and its mount for restyled cars. Not used in this case.

We insert three brackets on the upper grilles. Although, for some reason, 8 pieces are indicated in the ETK - this is a mistake.


Then we tightly snap the grilles into the holes for supplying air to the interior heater. Right grille.


The left grille has a hole for the left windshield wiper. For right-hand drive cars, on the contrary, there is a hole in the right grille.


By the way, the grille also serves as a decorative cover for the wiper axis. The cover had to be removed because the grille did not fit in its place. And this cover is used only for the central wiper axis. I searched in vain for another one :)


The upper ventilation grilles are installed.


We install the middle grille. At the bottom, it simply hooks onto the edge of the apron, and at the top, it is inserted into a special hole with a pin.


We fix it from above with two staples (No. 6). I glued a transparent protective film under the staples so that the staples would not peel off the paint.


We glue the seals (№12) on the side grilles. The headlight washer nozzles are already installed on the grilles.


We insert the clips (№5) into the special holes in the front apron. We pull out the headlight washer hose.


We connect the hose to the headlight washer nozzle.


Install and align the grille. Screw it in with two self-tapping screws (No. 4) from below.


Fix it from above with three brackets (No. 6), - above each headlight, and near the middle grille. I glued a transparent protective film under the brackets so that the brackets do not peel off the paint.


Similarly with the right grille.


The decorative grilles are installed. Now I can install the headlight wiper blades that I wrote about earlier.
Left


Right


Finally, the front end is completely assembled!


Beautiful face! I like it! :)


All that's left is to install the bumpers. But first, they need to be painted. They used to be black, but in the original "Shadow line" package they were painted in the body color.

P.S.
I almost forgot an important date! :)

Production date 1984-11-02

My E30 has an anniversary - 40 years! Now it's a real "oldtimer"! :)
As a gift for her, just in time, there will be a BBS body kit - in it the grandmother looks younger and more beautiful! )) And the face turned out very cute! ))

[The_Glory]

Assembly_176_Installing the BBS body kit (part 4) - front apron

In the section about fog lights, I already wrote and showed that the headlights are not installed in the factory frames, but directly in the BBS apron. So, now I install the apron together with the fog lights.
By analogy with the rear apron, I glued a rubber seal in the places where it adjoins the metal apron. It will also be attached in the same way - with stainless bolts in threaded rivets that were installed before the car was painted.




The apron lay for a long time and bent a little, so I had to warm it up with an industrial hair dryer and straighten it a little. This is the "plus" of this material - although it loses its shape if it lies for a long time and sags, it very easily restores its shape with not much heating.


Threaded rivets - two on each side.


Two near each spar, and one in the center.


First I screwed in the center, and then to each side, pressing and bending the apron.




From the end of the wheel arch we fix it with one self-tapping screw. From the inside, I covered the self-tapping screw with butyl rubber so that it rusts less.


Done.




After installing the lower plastic protective shield, the lower edge of the apron will still be screwed to it.

And now the nuance with the tow loops. If you noticed, the BBS designers decided that only one tow loop on the right would be enough, so they closed it tightly on the left!


And on the right, they left a large cutout opposite the loop.


To be honest, I don't really understand how to use this loop now... we'll see... Of course, there was a cover for this cutout. But I didn't have one, so I had to make it myself. 3D printing came to the rescue. On the third try, I found the right size.




It turned out pretty well.


And here's the most interesting thing - the fastening of this cover.
Once upon a time, when I bought the first such BBS apron, there was the same cutout for the loop, and on its sides were glued Velcro fasteners! In the photo from the Internet, there was no such cutout on the machines. That's a "collective farm", - apparently someone cut the hole themselves, and then closed it with a Velcro flap. So then I blew it! )) And I decided to do it more carefully. I glued that hole, and inserted the original small square plug from the front bumper there. I cut off the towing eye, and welded a large nut in its place, and made a threaded hook for towing - like on restyled cars. It was very convenient to use.


And it looked pretty good - not noticeable, as if it were supposed to be.


Then I bought another such BBS apron, in much better condition, and for cars with an oil radiator (with additional slots in the center). And what was my surprise when I saw exactly the same cutout for the loop and Velcro fasteners on its sides! )))

Something is wrong here, I thought, and started looking for a photo on the Internet. )) And one day I saw a new BBS apron for sale on eBay. And it has the same cutout and Velcro fasteners! )) NEW! I even saved that photo! )


That is, this is such a simple and non-standard factory solution! )) Although it looks "collective farm"! ))
By the way, the photo shows how the apron deforms if stored incorrectly for a long time. Fortunately, it easily straightens when heated. This is from my own experience.

Another nuance - the photo shows a package with fasteners. And in the package - black self-tapping screws and ties! ))


I guess back then no one really cared about that mount and all sorts of threaded rivets, clips and clamps - everything is simple and cheap - on self-tapping screws! ))

So, I hesitated for a long time - to make a plug in the same way on this apron, or to leave everything as the BBS designers intended... :)
I decided to leave everything as it was from the factory. )


During welding work, the right towing eye was turned. But they probably made it a little shorter, so it will be difficult to use it...


Velcro fasteners, even in the color of the car )


It seems to be holding up well.


And it looks good.


So the BBS front apron is installed.






Accordingly, the entire BBS kit is installed.
Except for the rear spoiler. I will keep the Breyton spoiler, I like it better. But if I find a BBS spoiler, I will buy it for the complete set.

P.S.
And about the screws! )) In my old photo above, BBS sill plates are installed, but from an earlier set. As you can see, they are simply screwed to the body with screws. I was often criticized for this, and people made remarks to me that it is a "collective farm", etc.
But, on the same eBay I found a photo of the same NEW set.


With instructions for mounting.


And what do we see there? Screw mounts! )) And screws are included! Exactly the same ones that I used for the clamps now. )


So, attaching body kits from those times with self-tapping screws is not "collective farm", but "oldschool"! )))

[The_Glory]

Assembly_175_Installing the BBS body kit (part 3) - sill plates

For now, I will continue installing the BBS body kit - sill plates.






A special plastic strip is used to attach the plates.


It is screwed to the body, and the sill trim is inserted into its groove. Additionally, for fixation and sealing, I glued butyl rubber tape to the strip.


As I already said, to attach the body kit, even before painting the car, I installed stainless threaded rivets. I screwed the strip to them with stainless bolts.




First fitting, - it seems normal, you can glue.




We glue the trim to the strip on the sealant. We install the rear small trim on the wheel arch on the sealant. We fix it from the end with self-tapping screws.


The front part of the lining is screwed to the front wing.




It is also fixed with self-tapping screws on the end of the wheel arch.


Only after this can the front lining be installed on the wing. It is inserted into the grooves in the sill lining, and closes its attachment to the wing.








It is important to immediately wash off the sealant residue from the joints before it dries. You will need a lot of rags.
Done.








I replaced the screws with black ones so they weren't so noticeable ) I covered them with butyl rubber on the inside so they wouldn't rust as much.




The upper joint of the pads looks quite neat.


There is a significant expansion in the rear. Miniwidebody :)


The lower mounting of these BBS pads is absolutely identical to the mounting of the original factory M-Technic I pads. It is possible that the original plastic clips (51 71 1 933 125) were used for it, or something very similar. My lower mounting kit did not have one, so I measured the dimensions and made a sketch of the clip.


My friend made a 3D model of it and printed them on a printer. You need 8 pieces in total.
I used 4.2x19 self-tapping screws and washers made of stainless steel.


We install the clamp on the inner metal edge of the threshold, and screw the cover to it.




The screw passes under the metal edge and presses the cover to the threshold.


In the back there are two more such clamps - a total of 4 pieces on each side.
The BBS sill plates are aligned and now fully secured.




All that remains is to install the BBS front apron.

P.S.
And I still don't know what to do with the moldings. At first they interfered with installing the plates, and now the plates interfere with installing the moldings... That's it! )

[The_Glory]

Assembly_174_ETK_13_Valves, pipelines of the intake system

To finally complete the engine assembly, you need to install the fuel injectors.
So, back to the ETK section
Preparation and adjustment of the working mixture

The last unit
Valves, pipelines of the intake system




Part No. 1 - distribution main (13 53 1 717 073) - 1 pc.
Part #2 - bolt M6X12 (07 11 9 913 442) - 4 pcs. Fastening of the distribution main.
Part #3 - BOSCH injector (13 64 1 734 776) - 6 pcs. Fuel injectors BOSCH 280 150 715.
Part No. 4 - ring of round section 7.52X3.53 (13 64 1 730 767) - 13 pcs. I use rubber rings BOSCH 1 280 210 752. 2 pcs. for each nozzle and 1 pc. on the fuel pressure regulator.
Part No. 5 - bracket (13 53 1 274 729) - 6 pcs. For fixing nozzles in the distribution line.

Part #6 - pressure regulator 3.0BAR (13 53 1 711 541) - 1 pc.

Part No. 7 - bolt with washer M6X12 (07 11 9 915 033) - 2 pcs. Fastening of the fuel pressure regulator.
Part #8 - vacuum hose Schwarz 3.5X1.8 (11 72 7 545 323) - 1 pc.
Part #9 - fuel hose 32MM-210MM (13 31 1 288 284) - 1 pc. Instead of shaped hoses, I use solid Gates 8x13mm hoses. I already wrote about them earlier in the sections on the fuel system.
Part No. 10 - connecting element (13 31 1 713 470) - 1 pc. It is used to connect two shaped hoses. In my case, it is not used, as I do not see the point of cutting a whole fuel line in order to connect it later with clamps.
Part No. 11 (No. 14) is a fuel pulsation damper, not used. It was installed only on Jetronic. On Motronic, they began to be installed near the fuel pump - I wrote about them in the corresponding section. Part No. 10 is installed in its place.
Part No. 12 - fuel hose 561MM-920MM (13 31 1 722 565) - 1 pc. Instead of shaped hoses, I use solid Gates 8x13mm hoses. I already wrote about them earlier in the sections on the fuel system.
Part No. 13 (No. 15) is a similar fuel hose, but for some reason it is not listed in the ETK.
Part No. 16 - clamp (07 12 9 952 104) - 4 pcs. If you use regular connecting elements, then you need 10 such clamps. As I already said, I don't see the point in this. Therefore, I only have four of them, and two of them have already been installed before, along with the fuel supply and return hoses.
Part No. 17 - wire holder (61 13 8 380 213) - 1 pc.

Part No. 18 - fuel hose bracket (13 31 1 714 455) - 1 pc. Similar to No. 17, but with a metal bracket for mounting.
Part No. 19 - 2-POL connector housing (12 52 1 706 121) - 6 pcs. Connector of fuel injectors, gray color for 2 foams. I wrote about this in the section on motor wiring.
Part No. 20 - protective cap L=12.5MM (61 13 1 358 330) - 6 pcs. Rubber protective cap for fuel injector connectors. I wrote about this in the section on motor wiring.
Part No. 21 - connecting part (13 31 1 709 577) - 1 pc. It is used to connect two shaped hoses. In my case, it is not used, as I do not see the point of cutting a whole fuel line in order to connect it later with clamps.

So, let's start with the injectors. They were in the box for several years, so they needed to be checked and cleaned before installation.


First outside.




And then on a special stand for washing nozzles. For this, I bought a repair kit for injectors. It includes rubber rings, plastic washers, tips and filters. I bought rubber rings BOSCH 1 280 210 752 earlier, separately.


Repair kit number in the photo.


After replacing the filters, washing, and replacing the repair kit, the injectors are ready for installation.






Fuel injectors BOSCH 280 150 715.




The nozzles are tightly inserted into the distribution line and fixed with a clamp. The bracket fits into the lower groove on the nozzle body. The upper grooves may be used on some other cars.


Before installation, you need to lubricate the rubber rings.


The nozzles are installed on the main line.




Fixation of nozzles with staples.




I read on the Internet that in order to install a distribution line with injectors, you need to remove the intake manifold, valve cover, or file something on them... I was scared to death by such a prospect! ))) But all this is stupid!
To install a line with injectors, it is enough to remove the intake manifold bracket and the crankcase ventilation hose. Then we introduce the main line from the front part under the collector, and carefully push it back. At the same time, the nozzles should be located horizontally towards the left wing. When the pipeline is completely under the collector, we turn it 90 degrees and install the nozzles in the holes of the collector. Also, do not forget to lubricate the rubber rings before watering. Not very convenient, but everything fell into place.


We fasten the main with four bolts to the collector.




We connect the motor wiring to the injectors, according to the length of the wires. By the way, in later versions, the wiring and nozzle connectors are mounted in one plastic strip, and are a separate part of the motor wiring.


I have separate connectors for each injector.


We screw back the intake coektor bracket and the crankcase ventilation hose.


We screw the fuel pressure regulator to the main line, and connect its hose to the collector.




On the other hand, connect the fuel return hose to the regulator.


We fix the hose with a holder (#17) to the air filter housing - I'm not sure if it was done that way from the factory, but I couldn't find another place for it.


With a similar holder, but with a metal bracket (No. 18), we fix the fuel supply hose to the brake master cylinder mount. I installed it earlier, along with the vacuum brake booster.


There, I connected the supply and return hoses together with a special clamp - I wrote about this recently.
We connect the supply hose to the inlet of the distribution main.


As I said - instead of several separate original hoses, I used solid hoses, without additional connections - I think it will be more reliable and safer for the fuel system.


The fuel injectors are installed and connected.


Well, now the engine is completely assembled and ready for a test run.












Almost ready. It is still necessary to change the oil and fill with antifreeze. Well, install the exhaust system.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_173_ETK_11_Engine. Exhaust manifold

At this point there should be a record about "tuning"! )) But he won't be there.
If you remember, I already wrote that I bought a beautiful and shiny new Turbo Works stainless steel exhaust manifold - it's like a Chinese copy of the Supersprint...


And it seemed to fit the engine more or less normally... almost normally... )


But his first fitting on the engine, already installed on the car, showed something completely different!


That's the maximum I could fit it in there! )))




Its pipes rested on the spar, on the oil filter pipes, one on the other, and on the gearbox.


The X-pipe, which was in the kit, could not be installed at the same time.




Although, if it fit, it would look beautiful! ;)


Of course, if you really wanted to, you could cut that collector, bend it again, then weld it, and finally, push it in! But I had neither the desire nor the opportunity. That's why I sold it.
By the way, a teammate had exactly the same story with the same collector. But I heard that it somehow fits on the E34 with the M20.
So, the Chinese "tuning" had to be abandoned! And such a thing!... :)
For now, I will install the factory collectors, and then we will see... ;)

Exhaust manifold




Part No. 1 - front exhaust manifold (11 62 1 710 834) - 1 pc.
Part #2 - threaded plug CM8X1 (07 11 9 919 210) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 3 - sealing ring A8X11.5-AL (07 11 9 963 041) - 2 pcs.

Part No. 4 - rear exhaust manifold (11 62 1 710 825) - 1 pc.
Part No. 5 - M8 nut (11 62 1 711 954) - 12 pcs. Copper nut FEBI 03687.

Part No. 6 - sealing gasket with heat shield (11 62 1 723 655) - 2 pcs. I use ELRING 495900.


Part No. 7 - mounting pin M10X40 (11 62 1 716 870) - 6 pcs.
Part No. 8 - sealing gasket (11 76 1 711 717) - 2 pcs. I use FEBI 01610.
Part #9 - nut M10 (18 30 1 737 774) - 6 pcs. Copper nut TRUCKTEC 0839054.


The collectors were sandblasted and painted with heat-resistant zinc paint.
Screw the threaded plugs (No. 2) with sealing rings (No. 3) into special holes on the collectors. I'm not sure, but I read somewhere that these holes are used to measure CO2 in the engine exhaust. But why do you need two more threaded holes - I don't know. If anyone knows, please let me know.
There was no point in unscrewing the pins (#7) from the collectors. Therefore, they are already installed on the collectors - we put gaskets (No. 8) on them and tighten the nuts (No. 9).


We put gaskets with heat shields (No. 6) on the studs, install and fasten the collectors with copper nuts (No. 5).

Previously, the pins were treated with copper grease.


Exhaust manifolds are installed. Now I can install the exhaust system.

P.S.
And what about "tuning"?! - you say... ))
Somehow so. ;)


Of course, not as beautiful as shiny china :) However, everything fit perfectly!
The real "old school" for BMW E30 with M20 - Sebring.


Exactly such equal-length collectors were installed on the BMW E30 AC Schnitzer.
It doesn't look very attractive right now, but I hope I can revive it! There will be a separate post about this later. Then I will think about a new exhaust system with a beautiful sound... But for now, everything will remain as it was before.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_172_ETK_11_Engine. Cylinder head

Well, to finally start the engine, you need to install the exhaust system and exhaust manifolds. So, let's go back to assembling the engine. Namely, to ETK sections

Cylinder head - additional elements


Cylinder head




Part No. 18 - installation pin (07 12 9 908 134) - 12 pcs.

The cylinder head had been completely rebuilt a long time ago, so I didn't do anything to it other than give it a good cleaning on the outside. But six pins of the exhaust manifolds had to be replaced.
By the way, I took the pins from another cylinder head, which a goat sold me a long time ago, as a fully working one.
But after its disassembly and defecting, a crack appeared in it, so then I decided to completely restore my cylinder head - maybe it's for the better! ;) And this one was lying around in the garage like junk. I also washed her with it.







Crack:




Regarding its repair, the opinions of the masters were divided at the time - some say that you can try to weld the crack and everything will be fine, while others say that the crack after welding can go further along the body... So then I didn't start playing this lottery, but completely rebuilt his cylinder head. And maybe I'll try to weld this one someday... or maybe it's not worth it... If someone can give me some advice on this matter, I'll be grateful.

So, six pins are installed. I treated all the pins with copper grease.


Now I can install exhaust manifolds.