E30 from Ukraine - "Shadow of Intelligence"

[The_Glory]

Collection_92. ETK_64_Heating and air conditioning. (part 4) Air conditioner details

So, I continue to assemble the air conditioner case. It remains to install the hinged parts.
Air conditioning parts




Part No. 1 - the upper part of the body
Detail No. 2 - lower part of the body
Part #3 - fan bowl (64 11 1 372 507)
Part No. 4 - servo drive (64 11 1 372 511) - 2 pcs.

Part No. 5 - connecting rod (64 11 1 372 512) - 2 pcs. Again a mistake in ETK - the left and right thrusts are different and this is very important, I will show why later.

Part No. 6 - relay (61 36 1 388 911) - 2 pcs.
Part #7 - evaporator temperature regulator (64 50 8 390 158) On the diagram, this is part #20
Item No. 8 is not used. Used only for climate control
Part No. 9 - condensate drain hose (64 11 1 370 998) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 10 - condensate drain hose (64 11 1 370 995) - 1 pc.

Part #11 - bracket left (64 11 1 372 635) and right (64 11 1 372 636)
Part #12 - rubber gasket (64 11 1 372 637) Not available for ordering, but as I said, it is perfectly replaced by a regular "fishing" rubber.
Part No. 13 - bracket (64 11 1 372 638) - 2 pcs. This is a plastic bushing of the linkage
Part No. 14 - fan bowl (64 11 1 370 934)
Part No. 15...No. 18 is not used. Used only for climate control
Part No. 19 - resistor (64 11 6 912 633)
Part No. 20 - evaporator temperature regulator (64 50 8 390 158)
Part No. 21 - insert of the retainer (64 11 1 376 327). Fastener for attaching salon clips

We connect the internal and external recirculation flaps of the recirculation flaps.


We install the resistor in the grooves and snap it into the connector.






We connect the upper and lower parts of the case with staples, inserting a rubber seal around the perimeter. We lay the wiring and fix it with metal clips, install and connect the thermostat and the temperature sensor of the evaporator. Below is a place to install a radiator.


We install brackets with servo drives and connect them. We fix the connectors in the brackets of the brackets. We install relays and fix their connectors on special grooves on the case. The wiring is fixed on the left with a tie, on the right with a clamp.


We insert the rods into the corresponding holes in the case and snap them into the bushings (#13) on the servo drives. And now an important point. Traction must be properly adjusted. If this is not done, then soon the flaps will break, as it often happens, and as it was in my case. The fact is that the servo drives are constantly under power and "pull" the flaps so that they are tightly closed. That is why they break. To prevent this from happening, you need to manually move the servo with the thrust as far back as possible until the servo lever rests against the bracket.


Now manually press the flap so that it closes, and adjust the length of the rod along the thread, and in this position snap it into the hinge.


Now the servo will not excessively "pull" the flap, as its lever will rest against the bracket.

It is the same on the right, but there is a nuance. I don't understand why they didn't do the same. The difference is that the lever of the right servo goes past the bracket and does not rest against it. But the right pull (unlike the left) has a special bend, with which it rests against the lever itself.


Adjusting the length of the thrust is similar to the left side.


Lubricate the joints with Teflon grease. Done with flaps.
A place to install the vaporizer. By the way, this is where the interior filter can be installed in the version of a conventional heater.


For now, just put the lid on.


On the cover there is a special attachment for the retainer of salon clips No. 21. There should be a similar mount on the left side of the case, but it's broken off...


I asked a friend to print a "repair insert" for this fastener. He also printed a few more things I needed - mounting the instrument panel, ceiling panel and cover on bolts with a lock.


Maybe not perfect, but the clip should hold.




The air conditioner body is fully assembled.

[The_Glory]

Collection_91. ETK_64_Heating and air conditioning. (part 3) Details of the heater housing/with a microfilter

BMW E30 was equipped with two types of interior heaters. Accordingly, each type of heater had its own radiator, radiator valve, electric fan motor and wiring. All these parts are not interchangeable between the two types of heaters, and must match each other. Of course, the housings of the heaters are also completely different. But, fully assembled with all these parts, the heaters are interchangeable. The difference can be only in the C204 connector, if you change between restyling and before restyling. Both types were available both before restyling and after restyling - there are many options for combinations :)

In addition, these two types of heaters were available in several variants each.

So, the types of BMW E30 interior heaters:
Type 1
1.1 - heater
1.2 - heater with automatic temperature control
1.3 - heater with attached air conditioner (perhaps this is a dealer or aftermarket retrofit)
Type 2
2.1 - heater
2.2 - heater with cabin filter
2.3 - air conditioner without recirculation (I only read about it somewhere, but never saw it)
2.4 - air conditioner with recirculation
2.5 - air conditioner with automatic temperature control (climate control) and with recirculation

The first type is simply a heater. But there is an air conditioner retrofit kit for it, although it is rare, mostly on early cars.

The second type can simply be a heater or an air conditioner. The cabin filter can be installed only in the second type and only for the heater option. In the air conditioner version, an evaporator is installed in its place. A bit of a strange decision in my opinion.

I had the simplest option installed - a heater (1.1), before restyling. Now I will install air conditioning with recirculation (2.4), restyling. In this part, we will talk about the assembly of the heater/air conditioner housing itself.

He looked like this:


Therefore, it was first necessary to completely disassemble it, wash it, clean it and bring it into proper shape and condition.
Unscrew and remove all hinged parts.
The case consists of upper and lower parts, which are fastened with staples.


Staples are easily removed with a thin screwdriver, the main thing is to find them all.


Having separated the lower and upper parts, it became clear that in order to remove the wiring, it is necessary to separate the upper part into left and right parts. They are riveted with four rivets in the place of installation of the electric motor of the fan - two on top


But two from below


But with four more rivets at the bottom of the case.


We drill rivets.
Then you need to unscrew the self-tapping screw in the upper part. This requires a very long thin screwdriver.


And one more self-tapping screw in the lower part.


In addition, the edge of the case was soldered (scratches in the photo).


Carefully cut the solder and, finally, the upper part is separated.


Carefully remove them from the grooves. I did not remove the central flap. There was a thin rubber gasket between the parts of the case.


Now you can remove the wiring and rewind it.


1 - connector C204 for connection to the main wiring
2 - temperature controller relay connector
3 - evaporator temperature sensor connector
4 - fuse connector (2A)
5 - radiator valve connector
6 - fan speed resistor connector
7.1 - power connector of the electric motor of the fan
7.2 - "mass" connector of the electric motor of the fan
8 - connector of the servo drive of the left recirculation flap
9 - connector of the relay of the left recirculation valve
10 - right recirculation valve relay connector
11 - connector of the servo drive of the right recirculation valve
12 - the connector of the backlight lamp of the air conditioner panel
13 - fan speed switch connector
14 - air conditioner/recirculation button connector
15 - connector of the backlight lamp of the air conditioner panel
16 - connector for connecting to Motronic motor wiring (pin 40, 41)
17* - cigarette lighter light bulb connector. Instead of a lamp, in accordance with the EBA instructions, I have a connector installed there for connecting the wiring of the gear knob backlight (I will write about this later)
18.1 - cigarette lighter power connector
18.2 - "mass" connector of the cigarette lighter

* this is how the additional wiring of the cigarette lighter and gear shift knob looks like


Body parts were thoroughly washed and cleaned of age-old dust and dirt. But there was one problem with the body, "classic" for the E30 - a broken recirculation valve. Not even broken, but completely self-made from plastic from the Zhiguli!


Someone tried very hard, but it still jammed and didn't work.


VAZ relay cover :)


And here I was lucky! At a flea market, I found a half-disassembled case of an air conditioner - with an evaporator, and damper drives, and with WHOLE dampers!


I rearranged the damper and glued new 4 mm splenum seals on all dampers.




By the way, I made the templates for all the flaps in .pdf format, so if someone needs them, you can print them out and cut them. Dimensions tested in practice! ;)

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pBzVuRbMJMIqI9nzqfZI5OLQCn9WMA6J/view?usp=drive_link

So, you can start assembling the case,


First, we insert the wiring and connector of the fan electric motor resistor. We also do not forget to insert the rubber valve body.


We insert a rubber gasket into the grooves of the case. I bought a skein of ordinary rubber in a fishing store - it costs a penny :) Although it only takes a few meters. There was some sealant in the places where the self-tapping screws were installed, so I put some black spacer sealant there as well.


Now we carefully connect the two parts, while it is necessary to get into all the grooves, and so that the rubber seal does not fall out anywhere. I got a little dizzy, but I made it! We twist two self-tapping screws, rivet new rivets through the metal plates, and seal the edge.






The upper part of the case is assembled - everything is as it was.


Now you can put the side flaps. We insert the axis and fix it with locking washers on both sides.


We put a red rod, attach a cable with a red label to it. Do not forget to put a red rubber band on the axle. A mysterious detail - I thought for a long time why it was there, and I came up with it! :) I'll show you later ;)




Also new gaskets on the flaps.


We put the flaps carefully so as not to break them - push the rod and put on the flap from the other side, while the flaps should fit into their grooves.






I lubricated the hinges of all dampers with Teflon grease.
We install the brackets for attaching the heater body to the body - just screw them tightly into the grooves.




The cables are attached to the corresponding rods. By the way, I did not remove all the cables from the case, because some are riveted. But someone must have removed it not carefully before and punched a hole - it had to be sealed.


Finally, the upper part of the heater body is completely assembled. It is strange that it consists of many parts, but in ETK it goes like one part. Although, for example, there are numbers on the same flaps, but they are not in ETK.


It's easier with the lower part - it's just a trough with a large flap. Also goes on ETK, as one detail. Cleaned and glued new seals.

So,
Heater housing parts/with microfilter




Part No. 1 - the upper part of the body
Detail No. 2 - lower part of the body
Part No. 3 - sealing gasket (64 11 1 370 936)
Part No. 4 - sealing gasket (64 11 1 370 937)
The gaskets can be bought new, but their price is a bit overpriced, in my opinion... :) That's why I cut them myself from a similar material.

Part No. 5 - bracket (64 11 1 370 938) Brackets for fastening parts of the case. You need about 22 pieces in total, although I don't remember exactly...

Part No. 6 - resistor (64 11 1 370 927)
Part #7 - cover (64 11 1 370 929) - only for the heater. In the photo, another cover is for the air conditioner.
Part No. 8 - air duct left (64 21 1 370 619) and right (64 21 1 370 620)
Part No. 9 - screw (64 11 1 370 949) - 6 pcs. For fixing the cover and air ducts.
Part No. 10 - cover (64 11 1 372 670) - 2 pcs. It is used only on 2-door cars, if there are no channels in the rear part of the cabin. In my case it is not used.

If it was just a heater, it could already be completely assembled. But, since this is an air conditioner, you still need to install all its hinged parts. More on that later.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_90. ETK_64_Heating and air conditioning. (part 2) Wiring connection, adapters

So, now everything is ready to install the air conditioner. Today will be, so to speak, the "introductory part".
The air conditioner in the E30 is probably the option that has been changed the most and most frequently throughout the E30's production period. Every year some changes were made to its wiring and design. Therefore, there are many combinations of wiring options, sensors, regulators, compressors, fans, radiators, heater housings and other air conditioner parts. And not all of them are compatible with each other. Now, as a rule, you don't have to choose, so I bought what I could find at the moment - an M20 air conditioning kit, which was then installed on the M42, with sad consequences for the compressor, due to its homemade mounting - I already mentioned this before .




In principle - a normal complete set, at a normal price.
Based on the wiring and ETM, I identified it as a variant of the 1989 model - that is, restyling. The main wiring in my 1986 model car is, accordingly, before restyling. Therefore, almost all the connectors are different, the circuits are different, the colors of the wires and pin numbers also do not match. But somehow it is necessary to combine all this! :) Having armed himself with the schemes of 86 and 89, he began to figure out how to do it. I decided not to "barbarically" cut anything in the wiring, but to make it on "transitional" adapters. For this, I bought donor pieces of wiring with the necessary connectors.


In fact, everything is not as difficult as it seems at first glance - you only need to connect a few wires correctly.
This time it will only be about connecting the underhood wiring of the air conditioner. If the wiring of the air conditioner corresponds to the main wiring, then the connection is very simple - you need to insert 5 terminals into the fuse block, and connect two connectors there (or one, for restyling). But this is not my case! :)
My case is a mix of '89 A/C wiring with '86 main wiring. It was for such an option that I made unfoamed adapters.


Please note - for other years of production, the pin numbers and the color of the wires may differ!

In practice, I only partially tested it - the heater fan works, the air conditioner fan works, the recirculation works. There is no way to check the operation of the compressor yet. Also, if you use this information, you do so at your own peril and risk! :) If there are any inaccuracies, I will make the appropriate changes after the air conditioner is fully launched.

Underhood wiring of the air conditioner of the 1989 model.


1 - fuse terminal #18 (30A), black-blue
2 - fuse terminal No. 3 (15A), black-green
3 - connector C413 for connection to the main wiring
4.1, 4.2 - connectors for connecting the diode
5 - terminal 86 of relay K1, black
6 - terminal 86 of relay K6, black-brown
7 - terminal 85 of relay K6, brown
8 - "ground" G104 (near the left headlight)
9 - connector of the additional air conditioner fan
10 - connector of the 2-pin radiator temperature sensor
11 - air conditioner compressor clutch connector
12 - high pressure sensor connector
13 - low pressure sensor connector





I haven't fully figured out the pressure sensors yet, so the blue connector 12 is temporary, and may be replaced later with the one needed for the corresponding sensor.
With the terminals, everything is simple and the same, regardless of the year of manufacture - empty places for relay contacts and fuses are visible on the board.
But the connectors are different. I have two white 2 pin connectors in my '86 fuse block to connect the A/C wiring.




They are compatible with each other in terms of shape, but you do NOT need to connect them to each other! They plug into the same matching 86 A/C wiring connectors.
But the connector corresponding to them (C413) on the wiring of 89 is completely different.


According to the expansion shown above, we make adapter No. 1 from the corresponding parts of the connectors - for underhood wiring of the air conditioner.


The cabin wiring for the '89 heater/air conditioner housing has the following C204 connector:


The cabin wiring of the 86 heater housing has the following C204 connector (three empty places for the air conditioner wires):


According to the expansion shown above, we make adapter No. 2 from the corresponding parts of the connectors - for the interior wiring of the air conditioner.
We add three additional wires for the air conditioner.


But we connect the corresponding foams according to the table above, according to the colors.


We get such an adapter (the length could be made twice as short).


According to the pinning shown above, we make adapter No. 3 from the corresponding parts of the connectors - for connecting the interior wiring of the air conditioner to the engine wiring (it could be made much shorter in length).


So, to connect the air conditioning wiring of the 89 model to the main and motor wiring of the 86 model, you need to make three such adapters:


As I already said, I made the length with a margin, I will shorten it in places, if necessary.

Therefore, we open the fuse block and connect adapter No. 1 to the corresponding connectors. These wires, in addition to black and green, go into the cabin to the C204 air conditioner connector. Black and green goes to fuse #19.


In the 86 version, the red-black wire does not go into the cabin with the other three, but is connected to the engine wiring under the hood. Therefore, this wire is brought out separately from the fuse block under the hood. It will be connected to the motor wiring later.


We break out the plastic plug in the fuse block housing, and tighten the underhood wiring of the air conditioner into it.


According to the ETM and EBA, insert the two fuse contact terminals (#3 and #18) and the three air conditioning fan relay contact terminals (K1 and K6) into the corresponding blanks on the board. This is given above in the description of wiring connectors. Connect the C413 connector to adapter #1. We put all these connectors in the fuse block and close it.


There is one nuance - judging by the EBA, there were simple configurations of cars, with no preparation for air conditioning at all. That is, - without these connectors in the fuse block. In this case, you need to buy the original additional wiring harness specified in the EBA. Don't know if it's still available.

Or just lay these wires yourself from the fuse block in the cabin to connector C204, according to the pinout table above.

Another small "upgrade" ;)
The previous owner installed an additional electric fan that was switched on by a button via a separate relay and fuse. I got used to it, so I decided to leave this button - suddenly I want to burn rubber on "donuts" or "barnauts", then it will not be superfluous to turn on the fan in advance, and not wait for the motor to overheat :) But I connected this button in parallel to temperature sensor, which turns on the maximum speed of the air conditioner fan - as if at the factory;)
This is the usual green button for heating the rear window.


The connection scheme is elementary - parallel to the sensor, to fuse No. 19 and to pin 86 of relay K6. Added a connector for adjusting the backlight of the button.


For convenience, I led the wires from the fuse block to the connector, and through the rubber insert in the engine shield, led it into the cabin.


I connected the backlight to the rear window heating button.


So, the underhood wiring of the air conditioner is connected, and together with other wiring is laid under the hood to the right headlight. I will connect its other connectors as the relevant parts of the air conditioner are installed.
Now you can install the heater/air conditioner housing and connect it using adapters #2 and #3. I will write about it next time.

[The_Glory]

Collection_89. ETK_61_Wiper system

Before installing the heater housing, I decided to install the wiper mechanism first. It will be much more convenient to do without a heater fan.
So, section General vehicle electrical equipment

Subsection Wiper system




Part No. 1 - wiper lever mechanism (61 61 1 370 792)
Part #2 - wiper motor (61 61 1 373 385)
Part No. 3 - protective cap (61 61 1 369 586)
Part No. 4 - electric motor crank (61 61 1 370 799)
Part No. 5 - drive rod (61 61 1 370 796)
Part No. 6 - corrugated casing D=16MM (61 61 1 370 800) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 7 - bolt M6X12-Z3-2 (07 11 9 915 014) - 3 pcs.
Part #8 - locking nut M6 (51 41 7 053 138) - 1 pc.



Part No. 9 - M8 nut (07 11 9 904 948) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 10 - protective cap (61 61 1 370 387) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 11 - nut (61 61 8 744 121) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 12 - spacer washer (61 61 8 444 182) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 13 - ring (61 61 1 353 766) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 14 - damper ring 18X28X6 (61 61 1 353 754) - 2 pcs.



Part No. 15 - bolt M6X20-U2-8.8 (07 11 9 903 995) - 1 pc.
Part No. 16 - sleeve (61 61 1 372 677) - 1 pc.
Part No. 17 - damper ring (61 61 1 372 676) - 1 pc.
Part No. 18 - corrugated crank cover D=16MM (61 61 1 370 649) - 1 pc.

For some reason, the ETK does not show the shims and retaining rings that fix the wiper axles.


There was no backlash in the hinges, so I did not disassemble them - I simply cleaned them well and replaced the grease in them. We also lubricate the axes and insert the mechanism into the housing. We put spacer washers on the axis to remove the axial backlash and fix the axis with retaining rings. The electric motor was working fine, so I just cleaned it. We fasten electric motor #2 to the windshield wiper housing #1 with three #7 bolts and cover it with plastic cover #3.


We insert rubber damper No. 17 and sleeve No. 16 into the hole of the case.
But it is better to screw the crank No. 4 to the motor axis with a nut No. 8 after installing the windshield wiper on the car. So it will be much more convenient to insert it into the niche of the body. Although, it is not very easy to do it anyway.


We insert rubber rings No. 14 into the holes on the body and deflect the wiring connector so that it does not interfere.


Insert rings No. 13, and install the wiper mechanism in the niche of the body.


Carefully push it to the holes. The procedure is quite difficult, there is little space, and it is not very convenient to do it. As I said, it is better to do this with the crank NOT screwed on - this way you can fold the levers more compactly so that they pass more easily through the niche. And good thing I did it BEFORE installing the heater and its fan. With him it would be much more difficult.
After the wiper axles are finally installed in their places, we put washers No. 12 on them, tighten nuts No. 11, and put on protective plastic caps No. 10. We screw in nuts No. 9, which will then be used to fix the levers of the brushes. But it will be after installing the glass.




After that, we screw the wiper body to the body with bolt #15, through the rubber damper #17 and sleeve #16.


I left the crank unfastened for now. We connect the wiring connector to the electric motor. After installing the glass, it will be necessary to turn on the windshield wiper so that its electric motor is in its extreme position. After that, screw the crank and brush levers.

[The_Glory]

Collection_88. ETK_51_Body equipment. Side panels and cladding

The carpet around the perimeter needs to be fixed with overlays.

Side trims and trims







Part #1 - left bar (51 43 1 884 375) and right bar (51 43 1 884 376). It is used only if there is a ceiling panel. Without the ceiling panel, these slats have a different top shape. I used to have them different, but now I replaced the left one with the right one.
Upper ordinary, lower under the ceiling panel:


Part #2 - bracket (51 43 1 922 789) - 2 pcs. Insert plate for lower fastening of slats No. 1.
Part No. 3 - bracket (51 43 1 881 429) - 2 pcs. Clips for upper fastening of slats No. 1.

Insert plate No. 2 and clip No. 1 are inserted into the grooves on the bar. Often they are broken. The plate is inserted into the lower hole on the body strut and is clipped into the upper hole on the body strut.


By the way, it is not clear why there is a hole with a thread similar to the thread for seat belt bolts in the middle of the body strut. What can be attached there?


The edge of the slat covering is inserted under the door seal and pressed against it.


The bar is installed.


Detail No. 4 - window frame lining left (51 41 1 906 475) and right (51 41 1 906 476)
Part No. 5 - bracket (51 41 1 906 485) - 6 pcs.


Staples No. 5 are inserted into the front door rack, 3 pcs. on each side.


Pads No. 4 are tightly inserted into staples No. 5.


Detail No. 6 - cladding of the middle left (51 43 1 933 731) and right (51 43 1 933 732) rack. Usually black, but in the exclusive Edition configuration there were INDIGO blue or SILBER gray.
Part #7 - left (51 43 1 916 681) and right (51 43 1 916 682) cover
Part No. 8 - plug (51 44 1 854 624) - 4 pcs. Clip for lower attachment of part No. 6. Can be replaced by item #15.
Part No. 15 - rivet with spacer sleeve (51 47 1 919 209) - 4 pcs. Clip for lower attachment of part No. 6. Can be replaced by part #8.


Part No. 16 - bracket (51 47 1 933 985) - 2 pcs. For fixing the wiring under the cladding of the rack.


Part No. 17 - threaded plug (51 71 1 913 007) - 2 pcs. There are two threaded holes for fastening the seat belt on the body rack. By default, the belt is screwed into the upper hole. When replacing the belt in the lower hole, you need to cut an additional hole in the lining according to the factory markings. At the same time, the factory top hole is closed with this threaded plug. I'm not going to rearrange the belts, so I don't have this part. It looks like this (photo from the Internet):


To install the rack lining, you need to unscrew the upper fastening of the seat belt, and pull it through the hole in the overlay. Plastic hooks glued to it are used to fix the lining. They are often already broken, as in my case. You cannot order them separately, but you can print them on a 3D printer. You need 2 pcs. on each pad. In the photo, the old hook is broken, and the new ones.


We glue them in the right places, at the same time I also glued sound insulation on these overlays and the edges of the cladding. We insert the overlay with hooks into the holes in the body rack and move it up until it is fixed. At the bottom, we press the carpet with an overlay and insert two bottom clips #15 (or #8). We insert cover No. 7 into the hole for the seat belt and screw its upper fastening. The lining of the racks is installed.


Part No. 9 - threshold cover front inner (51 47 1 904 595) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 10 - front outer threshold cover (51 47 1 904 641) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 11 - threshold cover rear inner left 51 47 1 933 557) - 1 pc.
Part No. 11 - threshold cover rear inner right 51 47 1 933 558) - 1 pc
Part No. 12 - threshold cover, rear outer left (51 47 1 904 645) - 1 pc.
Part No. 12 - threshold cover, rear outer left (51 47 1 904 646) - 1 pc.



External door sill plates with the M TECHNIC logo were available as an option. They look very beautiful, they are very expensive, they are very rare :)
Part No. 10 - threshold cover front outer M TECHNIC (51 47 2 230 812) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 12 - threshold cover, rear outer left M TECHNIC (51 47 2 230 813) - 1 pc.
Part No. 12 - threshold cover rear outer right M TECHNIC (51 47 2 230 814) - 1 pc.

Photo from the Internet:


Part No. 13 - bracket (51 47 1 840 961) - 16 pcs. A clip for fastening the inner linings of the threshold. 5 pieces each on the front pads and 3 pcs. on the rear pads.
Part No. 14 - bracket (51 47 1 840 960) - 14 pcs. A clip for fastening the external linings of the threshold. 4 pieces each on the front pads and 3 pcs. on the rear pads.
Part No. 18 - bracket (51 47 1 840 961) Clip for fastening the inner linings of the threshold. Parts #13 and #18 have the same number, that is, they are one and the same part. I do not understand why it is indicated twice.

I cleaned and polished all the pads before installation.


Installation is very simple - we insert the clips into the groove of the lining and snap them into the holes in the body. The inner linings press the edge of the carpet and the door seal, and the outer ones have a decorative and protective function for thresholds.
The front pads are installed.


And there was a problem with the rear ones - on the left side of the body, they forgot to drill one hole for the clips of the outer lining... I had to fix it. :( The hole was primed with zinc primer and painted.


There is also a nuance with internal ones. As it turned out, they are of two types. I had different ones - one wider and the other narrower, with a different shape of the profile.


The wider one has holes for additional fastening at its rear end.


I had to look for a pair of the same ones. Narrow ones are probably earlier, because they are harder to find. Therefore, I bought wide ones. But on the body, I did not find holes for additional fastening of the rear end. They also do not coincide with the holes for fastening the back of the seat. Well, I didn't use them, they hold up so well. Apparently, those holes are on later cars.


Rear pads are installed.


So, the carpet is completely installed and fixed around the perimeter. The heater/air conditioner housing can now be installed.

[The_Glory]

Collection_87. ETK_51_Body equipment. Bottom lining

Finally, it came to the interior assembly!
I already wrote about the not very successful idea with the blue interior :)
According to the factory configuration, my car had a green interior PINIENGRUEN (0149). Of all the colors available for the E30, it is my least favorite. It's also a good thing that the previous owner replaced it with an ANTHRAZIT (0211) black interior.

Underfloor trim



As I wrote before, before 1985 the carpet and soundproofing were separate parts, and after 1985 it was one unit. Therefore, the earlier version of the carpet is easier to clean and dry. There are many carpet numbers in ETK, depending on the year of production and color, but in terms of shape and size they are all the same and interchangeable for all 2 and 4 door sedans and touring cars. But of course, the early version should be installed only with appropriate sound insulation. And to install the late version instead of the early one, you need to remove it, since the noise insulation is combined with the carpet on the late version.
Accordingly, I have an early version of the carpet.


Detail #1 - lining of the bottom
Detail #2 - lining of the seat frame

The color is black ANTHRAZIT - in fact, it is dark gray. We will lay it on top of the installed sound insulation.


After buying the car, the back of the carpet was brown for some reason. I replaced it with a gray one a long time ago. But it turned out that the gray carpet can have a different shade, depending on the year of manufacture and model. The fabric itself also has a different texture and pile. After dry cleaning, the difference became more noticeable... Moreover, in the photo, the difference can be seen much better than in real life. Maybe later I'll find a backing that's the same texture as the main rug, but for now I'll leave it that way. In reality, the difference is not very noticeable ;)




Through special holes, we remove the front blower nozzles and the nozzles under the front seats. We also bring to the surface all the wiring for buttons and seat heating.


The carpet in the salon immediately became more comfortable :)

[The_Glory]

Blue Salon

So, it's time to lay the carpet and install interior details. And at this stage, out of nowhere, I suddenly had an idea - to assemble a blue interior - to match the color of the car! The idea seemed very good to me, and I began to look for parts of the original blue PACIFIC interior, which was installed on cars before 1985.
The carpet was found first. Although, in the photo, at first it seemed to me to be gray, not blue... and not by chance... I had to think better even then, but the idea of a blue interior won over common sense, and I bought it! :)


The carpet is not in perfect condition, but it is probably the best of the blue ones I have seen on sale. I compared it with my black ANTHRAZIT carpet - there is still a difference... it seems a bit like blue... :)


But, you need to wash and clean it well.


Now it looks more like blue! :) Although, in some places, spots remained... and under the pedals, it is simply already worn and worn.


Then there were 0212 PACIFIC blue door panels with houndstooth fabric inserts. Just what you need for a 1985 325i. In my opinion, houndstooth is one of the best fabric textures for the E30. The door trims are also not in perfect condition and have some blemishes, but I bought them as well. After cleaning, their appearance also became much better.


There is also an option to buy blue skins without fabric inserts. It will be easier to choose a seat with any fabric texture for them. ;)
An interesting nuance - all the blue door panels that I saw on sale here were sold with black pockets. Amazingly. But when I did find the blue pockets, I understood why it was so. Blue pockets, in contrast to black, gray, beige, brown and green, in 30-40 years almost completely lose their color and become almost white! Perhaps this is explained by the different quality of the dye for plastic... or I don't know what...


By the way, I also accidentally bought a blue door handle frame. Colored frames were on E23 and E28. And on the E30, there were only black ones, except for convertibles, which also had red and beige ones.
The inside of the pocket remained blue, as did the frame. And the outer side is very "burnt" in the sun.


And the door handles kept their color well. The difference is simply huge.


Later I bought another pair of blue pockets - they look a little better, but also almost completely discolored. Perhaps they need to be polished, or in extreme cases, painted.


Another interesting detail - in ETK, pockets of different colors have different numbers, but in fact, regardless of the color, the same number is indicated on the pockets! The upper one is black, the lower one is blue - 1 906 204. And there is no such number in ETK at all! Surprisingly! :)


And one more detail - some pockets are attached with self-tapping screws, and some with screws in threaded bushings. This is also not listed in ETK for some reason.


The most difficult part of the task remained - to find whole blue seats... And then I finally understood that the idea of assembling a blue interior is doomed to failure! :)
Everything I saw for sale looked something like this, or much worse:


In addition, I did not find blue "crow's-foot" seats at all. But I came to the conclusion that almost all colored E30 seats turn gray after 30-40 years of operation! :) I will definitely not install the seat in this condition in my car...
So, after comparing the assembled parts of the blue interior with my parts of the black interior...


...I've decided to shelve this crazy blue interior idea indefinitely and install my black interior! :)


I will write about this next time.

[The_Glory]

Collection_86. ETK_51_Body equipment. (part 2) Sound insulation

I wrote about the noise insulation of the body a long time ago, but in addition to the noise insulation of the floor, since at that time the wiring had not yet been laid.
So, I will continue this section.
Sound insulation





Until 1985, the sound insulation of the bottom was separate from the decorative carpet.
In this section, it remains to establish these two details.
Part No. 5 - sound insulation of the front bottom (51 48 1 916 533)
Part No. 6 - soundproofing of the rear bottom (51 48 1 906 357)

It is no longer available for order, and it is very difficult to find it in good condition. So I restored mine as best I could.
The front one had many cracks on the driver's side.


The cracks on the right are much smaller.


The condition of the back part was pretty bad, but I couldn't find a better one.


Therefore, I simply pasted a new soundproofing made of the same material on top of it.


I have already tried to seal the cracks in the front part with reinforced tape, but it did not help much. Therefore, this time I decided to seal it with construction sealing tape - I even picked up a similar color in a hardware store :)


It turned out not bad enough, in my opinion. I heated it a little with a hair dryer in places - it stuck very well.




Through special holes we remove the nozzles of the heater - from the front and under the front seats.




Sound insulation of the bottom is installed.


Now you can lay the carpet.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_85. ETK_64_Heating and air conditioning. (part 1) Grids and nozzles

So, I'm almost finished with the interior wiring - only the immobilizer and the air conditioner remain. I will connect the immobilizer when the car is running, but I will start recording the installation of the air conditioner now. There will be several parts, because there is a lot of information and photos.
Also, we start the big ETK section Heating and air conditioning

This time I'll start from the beginning of the chapter :)

Ventilation grille



Part No. 1 - left ventilation grill (64 22 1 381 149)
Part No. 2 - right ventilation grille (64 22 1 381 150)
Part No. 3 - middle ventilation grill (64 22 1 381 147)

The grids are kept on latches. But it seemed to me that it is more convenient to remove them not in the assembly, but to first remove the ribs of the nozzles of the grill. To do this, lower them as far as possible, then strongly, but carefully, press down to the click, and pull out the grille. Then we take out its case. Although, you can take out the entire assembly at once, and then disassemble the grilles. There was quite a lot of dirt on them. We wash, we clean.




We collect nozzle grids.


On the end, I glued strips of "anti-squeak" so that the nozzles are better kept in the installed position. I glued a new splenum seal to the middle grill.


We snap the nozzles into the housings. Grilles are ready for installation.


Hot air duct of the rear part of the cabin





Part #1 - hot air channel of the rear part of the cabin, left (64 22 1 913 815)
Part #2 - hot air channel of the rear part of the cabin, right (64 22 1 913 816)
Part No. 3 - plastic nut (16 13 1 176 747) - 4 pcs.
Part No. 4 - connecting element (64 21 1 370 635) - 2 pcs.

From 1985, these parts came standard on 4-door sedans, or as an option on 2-door sedans.
They are screwed to special pins on the body with two plastic nuts on each side. Part #4 connects the heater nozzles to these channels.




Channels exit through special holes in the carpet under the front seats.


Now you can lay the floor noise insulation and the carpet - more on that later. And now we return again to the grids and nozzles of the torpedo.

Nozzles/Covers





Part No. 1 - left glass heating nozzle (51 45 1 888 231)
Part #2 - right glass heating nozzle (51 45 1 888 232)
Part No. 3 - glass heating nozzle (51 45 1 888 230) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 4 - left warm air channel (64 22 1 888 241)
Part No. 5 - right warm air channel (64 22 1 888 242)
Part No. 6 - medium cold air channel (64 22 1 888 243)
Part No. 7 - left cold air channel (64 22 1 888 237)
Part No. 8 - right cold air channel (64 22 1 888 238)
Part #9 - self-tapping screw ST4,2X13-Z2 (07 11 9 907 939) - 9 pcs.
Part No. 11 - bracket (51 45 1 857 745) - 2 pcs.



For some reason, ETK does not specify self-tapping screws for fastening parts No. 3 - black self-tapping screws ST2.9X16 (07 11 9 902 423) - 2 pcs. , similar to those used to fasten the instrument panel shield.
Clamps for fixing the wiring are also not specified. All of them are needed:
61 13 1 391 721 - 2 pcs.
61 13 1 370 660 - 7 pcs.

Another useful thing, which is also for some reason not indicated in the ETK at all, is the additional sound insulation of the torpedo. It was used only on the E30 with a diesel engine. I decided to also install it for better noise insulation of the cabin. It looks like this and includes six elements (one was missing, so I cut it by analogy myself from the same material).


Before gluing the noise insulation, I cleaned the embedded parts for installing clamps and other metal surfaces of the torpedo from rust.
Three collars to the right.


Three clamps on the left and one more one on the left side torpedo bracket.


A place for an embedded clip for fastening a torpedo.


We prime and paint all internal metal surfaces and side brackets.


We glue the noise insulation to the torpedo, and glue the edges of the torpedo cladding where necessary.


We install side nozzles.


I'm just curious - why are the places for the grills made in different colors? It's like a traffic light - red, yellow, green. :) Or similar to the position lights of an airplane - red on the left, and green on the right :)
Left


average


rights


Insert nozzles with grids, but do not snap them. This will make it more convenient to install internal nozzles.


We install clamps. I additionally glued the joints of the channels with "anti-squeak" strips - so the plastic will not creak, and the channels will be more airtight.


First, we fasten the central nozzle No. 6 with three self-tapping screws, and put two clamps for wiring in its holes. Then we collect all the channels. After that, screw nozzles #1 and #2 with three self-tapping screws each. Only after that do we fasten the bars. Additionally, we connect the middle (No. 6) and side (No. 1, No. 2) nozzles with metal brackets, one on each side.
I cut out the left part of the noise insulation according to the sample from the right.


All nozzles and channels are installed, everything is ready for gluing noise insulation on them.




We glue noise insulation on all nozzles.






The torpedo is ready for installation. Now she is "diesel" :)
But first you need to install the heater. And before that - noise insulation of the floor and carpet. I will write about this next time.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_85. ETK_51_Inner rear view mirror

Let's return again to the ETK section Body equipment.
In the subsection Interior rear view mirror there is another additional electric option, almost the last ;)
S562 Rear view mirror with lamps for reading maps




I dreamed about it for a long time, and now, finally, I installed it. But, in order.
Part No. 1 is a standard rear-view mirror (51 16 1 817 121), included in the basic configuration.
Part #2 is an additional mirror, but I did not find its number in ETK.
Part #3 - additional mirror (51 16 2 125 362), according to the EBA instructions, it was installed on the right, in front of the passenger seat, on the front ceiling panel. To do this, you need to make a cutout in it for the bracket according to the template. It is no longer available to order. Maybe someday, if there is nothing else to do, I will try to make a similar one from my standard one... although it probably won't look very good... we'll see... It's obvious that mirrors #2 and #3 were used in training, police or other special purpose vehicles.
Part #4 - Rear view mirror with lamps for reading maps (51 16 1 906 525), comes as an additional option or in the "M-Technic" retrofit kit.
Part #5, #6 - left (63 31 1 380 153) and right (63 31 1 380 154) individual lighting lamp.


Item No. 7 - lamp 12V 10W, 2 pcs.
Part No. 8 - base plate (51 16 1 801 085) - mirror mounting bracket on the body.
Part #9 - shield (51 44 1 900 133) - rubber insert in the ceiling panel. Accordingly, it is used only on machines with this panel.


In the E30, normal interior lighting in the front part of the interior is available only in convertibles - there is a standard lamp above the interior rear-view mirror. For some reason, German engineers did not install it on all other E30 models, but decided that two side lights would be enough. In fact, it is very inconvenient to use them - you have to turn back to reach it, and still there is not enough light from the front - more shadow from the driver and passenger :) Therefore, it is not surprising that many owners somehow try to solve this problem themselves . In my car, the previous owner installed a ceiling light from the light of the small box in the plug of the electric sunroof, but for some reason did not connect it. I connected it in parallel to the left side lamp - it became much better. Later, I replaced that lamp with a standard side lamp with a switch - it became very convenient. It fits perfectly in place of the power sunroof plug and looks like it came from the factory. I don't understand why they didn't do it right away at the factory.


However, German engineers then tried to "rehabilitate" :) and made several additional optional lamps that were connected to the cigarette lighter, and a mirror with lamps. I have not yet bought the lamp for the cigarette lighter, but I managed to find a mirror in excellent condition, although without a connector. But that's not a problem - he installed the necessary connector.


Power buttons and lights with adjustable lighting angle.


An important nuance. The mirror has a greater mass than the standard one, so it can wobble on the move on the base mount. To avoid this vibration, an adjustable stop in the windshield with a rubber pad is provided. It often gets lost... surprisingly, I had it... but it also got lost somewhere in the boxes with spare parts... :( Maybe later it will be found, but for now I found a great solution - a rubber plug that is placed in the door - 51 71 1 904 603.


As I already wrote in the relevant topic, not all doors have openings for them, so I have some left over. Here, one came in very handy - it became just perfect. Even with the inscription BMW :)


Another nuance - the rubber insert No. 9 is put on the leg of the mirror through its hinge. On a mirror with lamps, this is prevented by the same stop in the glass. I haven't figured out how to tighten that rubber band without tearing it yet... The photo shows the size of the hole and the thickness and shape of the mirror leg. According to ETK, it is the same for both mirrors. I bought a new one, but I don't understand how to install it there. I wonder what to cut... If anyone knows, I will be grateful for the information. Can it not be installed with such a mirror at all?

Installing the mirror is very simple. I had already laid the wiring - these are two wires, power and "mass", which go from the niche of the front speaker along the left pillar of the body to the mirror.
In the niche of the left front speaker, we find a black 2-pin connector, and connect the wiring to it.


We lay the wiring together with the wiring of the electric sunroof up the rack, and lead it to the mirror.




We insert the wiring into the hole of the body, and take it out of the hole of the mirror bracket.


We connect the mirror connector and snap it into the bracket. It becomes quite tight, with considerable effort. It is removed in the same way - just pull hard.


A rearview mirror with map reading lamps is installed.


The lamps work only when the ignition is on - it's not very convenient, but it's better than nothing :) Although, for this case, I already have a homemade lamp - now everything is fine with the light in the cabin ;)
After installing the front glass, it will be necessary to adjust the stop with a rubber pad along the thread so that the mirror does not have a backlash.


P.S.
Another "detail" for the mirror - handmade silver "BORBET A"! If someone noticed him on the mirror ;)


A friend once made such a souvenir. It needs to be polished and hung on the mirror, but I will probably write about it sometime in the topic about wheels :)))

[The_Glory]

awsome work! i cant wait to see more!

Thanks
In fact, more has already been done, but there is no time to write.
I want to assemble the car as soon as possible... because the longer this war drags on, the less chance there is of surviving it...
If Europe and America continue to think for a few more years about whether to give Ukraine airplanes and long-range missiles, and whether to allow them to shoot at the racist territories, then by that time, we may not have anyone left to fight...
Also, I don't know when I will finish composing it, or if I will finish it at all, if I am sent to the front...

[Mazi!]

awsome work! i cant wait to see more!

[The_Glory]

Light On Indicator

I already added this option a long time ago, so I'll just copy and add a little to my old text from the forum.

In the ETK section Retrofitting, accessories I found an interesting option:
Lights on indicator.


Judging by the application, it was available for all E30, E32 (M30) and E34 (M40, M20, M21, M30, S38)
But, despite this, there is almost no information on it on the Internet, and it is extremely rare on the E32 and E34, and even less often on the E30. I managed to find only one photo of it and the EBA instructions:


Part No. 1 Signal light on (82 93 9 401 607).

Original instructions (EBA) for the installation of the light on alarm:

http://www.ow.no/archive/eba/1593.PDF

In the original EBA manual, the page scans are somehow confused, which makes it not very convenient to read. So I cut everything from there that only applies to the E30.
The gong beeps when you open the driver's door with the side lights or parking lights on - so you don't forget to turn them off - sometimes it's very useful.
The connection scheme is very simple.
The black wire connects to the driver's door limit switch.



The green wire connects to pin X of the C302 connector - this is power to the radio from the ignition on.




The blue and yellow wires are connected to the left and right side lights, respectively.
That is, to pins 7 and 9 of connector C103 (after restyling).


Or to 1 and 4 pins of connector C103 (before restyling).



The gong is installed on the steering panel, according to the template in the instructions.


So:
blue - left marker light in connector C103
yellow – right side light in connector C103
green - power for the radio in the connector of additional equipment C302 (X)
black - limit switch of the driver's door

As practice has shown, it is almost impossible to find such a gong. Therefore, in desperation, I bought an ordinary gong from the E34, which was also applied to many other BMW models. But I decided to connect it according to the original scheme for the E30, given above in the instructions. Since the gong connection scheme in the E34 differs from the E30 scheme, it was necessary to add diodes to the power supply wiring so that the different power sources (left and right dimensions, and the radio) are not paralleled.
So, in my case, the circuit for an E30 with a gong from an E34 looks like this:


The defoaming of the E34 gong connector looks like this:
"+" - blue - left marker light in connector C103 pin 1
"+" - yellow - right side light in connector C103 pin 4
"+" - green - power for the radio in the connector of additional equipment C302 pin X
T2 (long horns) - black - on the driver's door "mass" terminal
T1 (solid beep) - not used
T3 (short beeps) - not used
"-" - brown - "mass"

We twist the blue, yellow and green wires together (having previously installed diodes in them).
There is nothing complicated about the connection, except that it is physically very inconvenient to do it all under the torpedo. So while my wiring was off the car, I connected the gong wires to the appropriate factory twists, and routed them into the overall wiring harness. But I "got it wrong"... :) I mistakenly connected the power supply to pin W, instead of pin X... Therefore, now it also works in parallel with the backlight of the devices - a "bonus". :) And I forgot to lay the "mass" wire at all... :) It also happens... But here the foam of the C302 connector, which I added myself, came in handy - just what I needed! Pin B is "ground" from Y and pin C is power from X. So picked up the right 2 pin connector and connected it to C302 on BC pins. By the way, now there is only one G pin left unused.


I will not cut a hole for it - I will suddenly find the original one for the E30 later! ;) I'll just attach it to the wiring harness under the shield.

P.S.
In this version, the gong beeps not only when the door is opened with the lighting on, but also when the door is opened with the ignition on - it is also useful.

[The_Glory]

Collection_83. Check Engine option and additional lamps in the instrument panel

We continue to "Americanize" the E30! :) I already added this option a long time ago, so I'll just copy my old text from the forum.

Since 1987, a self-diagnostic function - Check Engine - has been available on BMW E30 with the M20B25 engine intended for the US market.
For this, a special DME Motronic 1.3 contact was used, the information from which was output to the orange "CHECK ENGINE" control lamp on the instrument panel. This lamp is located on the lower left of the instrument panel, in one of the reserve cells.



Do not confuse it with the orange "CHECK" lamp for BSK, which is located between the speedometer and the tachometer - they are completely different things.

Original operating instructions for the CHECK ENGINE function:

Control and signal lamps
1 - Engine operation indicator
The lamp should go out after starting the engine.
If the Check Engine light comes on or flashes, the engine can still be operated, but its electronics must be checked.

This function works as follows:

BMW MOTRONIC "PEDAL" fault codes
(models 1989-94)
All 1989-94 BMW cars are equipped with a self-diagnosis diagnostic system to detect a malfunction of the injection system. When a malfunction is detected, it is recorded by the electronic control unit (ECU) system and the code corresponding to the malfunction is recorded in the ECU memory until:

1) Car battery or ECU shuts down.
2) The engine starts 60 times without repeating the malfunction.
3) ECU memory is cleared using Bosch KTS300, BMW CARSOFT software or CS1000 BMW hand scanner,

To view fault codes from the ECU memory, use the following procedure:

1) Turn the ignition key to the "Ignition On" position.
2) Press the gas pedal five times in a row.

The CHECK ENGINE light will flash displaying the trouble codes starting with the lowest number. These CODES
consist of 4 digits separated from each other by a short pause (ie flash, pause, flash flash, pause, flash, pause, flash, translates as 1 2 1 1).
In the absence of errors, the code 1 4 4 4 will flash.

The decoding of the values of these codes can be viewed here

A useful feature, but it was not available on European BMW E30s.
But, if you look at the ETM scheme, you can see that it can be implemented quite easily - by adding only a few wires. Although it is not a fact that it will work on all machines, since it works only on DME Motronic 1.3. Therefore, it is better to immediately check the DME number and Motronic version according to this table
The DME Motronic unit is located behind the top lining of the small box.
In my case, it is a DME Motronic 1.3 unit with the number 0 261 200 173.


ETM wiring diagram for E30 with M20V25 1987 for the US market:


As you can see, two wires go to the CHECK ENGINE lamp:
1) green-white - power when the ignition is on from fuse #10 7.5A through twisting S212
2) brown (1988 - gray with diode, from 1989 - gray) - control signal from pin 15 of DME Motronic, through pin 12 of the underhood connector C101.
Everything is quite simple, but we start by checking the C101 underhood connector for a contact and a 12-pin wire.
Pinout of connector C101:


We remove the rubber band from the connector and look for the desired wire (indicated by the red arrow):


If there is a brown (or gray) wire on pin 12 of C101, you need to "ring" it to pin 15 of the DME Motronic1.3 connector (circled in the picture and the tester probe is installed in it):


If it "rings", then the task is simplified and there are chances that it will work :)
If not, then it is more difficult - you still need to pull the wire yourself from pin 15 of the ECU to pin 12 of C101. But it is better to immediately connect a light bulb to pin 15 of the ECU and to any "plus", turn on the ignition and quickly and sharply press the gas pedal to the floor 5 times, as described in the instructions above. If the lamp does not blink, then there will be no point in tidying up the wires - most likely, the problem is in an inappropriate ECU.
Next, you need to install a 12-pin "mother" contact with a brown-black wire, cross-section 0.5 mm, in the corresponding part of the C101 connector (circled in red in the photo):


12 pin "Papa" - factory brown (or gray)
12 pin "mother" - installed brown and black

We connect the connector, pull the brown-black wire through the rubber insert in the motor shield, and lead it to the instrument panel with a small margin in length.
Next, you need to pass the power cord. Power when the ignition is on comes from fuse #10. Scroll S212, judging by the ETM, is located in the scythe that runs along the door, next to the driver's seat. We lead the green-white wire to the instrument panel with a small margin in length. I immediately fed these wires into the main wiring harness. We connect a lamp to the wires, the same as in the ABS control lamp or torpedo illumination. Just in case, I wrapped the wires in the original insulation.


There are three orange and green reserve cells (used on diesel engines and automatic transmissions) on the instrument panel. We insert the lamp cartridge into one of them, where it holds better, because they are of different shapes:


We collect everything and check the work:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ixtLORLLHdc

The CHECK ENGINE function worked immediately and code 1444 flashes clearly - no errors!
Who did not understand - a long flash at first and then is a "pause", and short flashes between "pauses" are error codes. All codes will flash in a circle until the ignition is turned off. In my case, 1444 flashes in a circle - no errors.
It would seem - everything is fine! ) But, as you can see in the video, the lamp lights up after turning on the ignition and does not go out after starting the engine, but begins to flicker. During the day it is not so noticeable, but in the evening this constant flickering is stressful. As I said above, the ETM schematic for 1988 has a diode in the lamp circuit on the gray wire, going from the lamp to the DME Motronic 1.3.


A note on the schematic reads: "Diode installed as part of service information."
The idea arose that it is probably needed in order to avoid this flickering during engine operation. Although, looking at the diagram for its installation, there were doubts that this would help... But anyway, I took a diode from an old alarm and installed it according to the ETM diagram for 1988.
It did not help - the lamp also flickered with the engine running. If you put the diode upside down, naturally, the lamp does not light at all.
How to avoid this annoying flickering of the lamp, except to put a button in its circuit and turn it off - I do not know. Unless you get used to it and don't pay attention to it! :)
After a few days of tests, the CHECK ENGINE started flashing a different code - just 1.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jRukyC7j8N8

In the decryption file, in another table, it is there, 1 is an error when diagnosing DME. In the first table, there is a similar code for the same error - 1211. Most likely, it is the same thing, but its meaning is not completely clear, because there are no changes in the operation of the engine, in dynamics, in fuel consumption. Judging by the information on the Internet, this error appears occasionally in many people, and the reason for its appearance is not reliably known and it does not have any consequences. This error can be reset by running the check test and while the CHECK ENGINE light is flashing, fully depress the gas pedal and hold it for approximately 10 seconds. After that, the lamp will stop flashing and just burn. We turn off the ignition and repeat the test - now the lamp will flash 1444 - no errors. If this error is not reset, then, judging by its description in the tables, the DME unit needs to be replaced.
To make sure that this feature is fully functional, I ran another test with a known bug. I disconnected the connector from the air flow meter, started the engine and waited until Motronic "understood" this and "suspected" something was wrong :) The idle started to jump, the engine to shake. Turned off and started the test:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jW562o5pbIg

As you can see in the video, CHECK ENGINE detected an air flow meter error and code 1215 – Air Mass/Volume Sensor – is clearly flashing.
This error cannot be reset by holding down the gas pedal. To reset, you need to disconnect the battery or reset it with a special tester or wait until it resets itself after 60 engine starts without this error. I chose the first option :) After resetting, code 1444 appeared again - no errors.
That is, the option is fully functional.

While I was connecting the power to the lamp, I noticed that from the same coil S212, the power goes to both the reversing lamps and the seat belt lamp, which I wrote about above.


So now, I decided to add another reverse control lamp to the instrument panel ;) This is the second lamp in the photo above.
Ran another green-white wire and a blue-white wire from reverse light switch connector C301 to the dash. These wires also immediately feed into the main wiring harness.
It will be necessary to make appropriate icons for these lamps.

And one more lamp - a control lamp for the trailer's turn indicators. I already wrote that I bought an original towbar, even two - a regular one and one with a removable hook. I will probably write about this in detail later. But I will definitely not cut the rear apron of the BBS for the sake of installing a towbar. I also installed only a relay and a lamp :) It is necessary to use all the connectors to the maximum! :)


A relay with an additional contact is installed instead of the usual turn signal relay, one pin is added to its connector, and the "ground" terminal of the lamp is screwed at point G200. The lamp is inserted into the provided place in the instrument panel under the speedometer.


There is one more empty space left in the dashboard for a lamp, but I haven't figured out what to plug in there yet! :)

[The_Glory]

Collection_83. Additional options BSK (Active check control)

Some E30s were equipped with an on-board control system BSK (Active check control). They were mainly cars with 6-cylinder engines. There were different versions of this system, but I have its top version, which was only available for the US and Japanese market. It is distinguished by additional four lamps on a red field, which are absent in the basic version, and inscriptions in English.


For the European market, the top variant was only for diesel E28. It looks like this:


Additional functions could be in various combinations, depending on the configuration of the machine. I also have the simplest option.


There are four additional lamps on the board.


But the implementation of contacts is rather strange...


I installed it a long time ago, but only now did the wiring. My old photo.


So, additional BSK (Active check control) options in order:
1. Driver's seat belt and ignition key control lamp - for the US and Japanese market
2. The driver's airbag control lamp
3. Oxygen sensor control lamp (lambda probe) - for the US market
4. Catalyst overheating control lamp - for the Japanese market

Since these options were not available for the European market, we had to implement them on our own. First, you need to add the necessary wires to the BSK block connector. To do this, I made a defoamer. Additional option wires are highlighted in color.


Next, in order.

1. Driver's seat belt control lamp.

The complete set looks like this (photo from the Internet):


Of all this, I only had the on-board computer gong with two connectors (for the USA) and the BSK unit itself. I did the wiring myself, in accordance with the ETM scheme.


With the exception of the ignition switch control terminal. It is obvious that a European castle is not suitable for this. Maybe one day I will find an American one...
The BSK panel has not yet been installed, as the ceiling cladding has not been installed.


I haven't found the timer relay yet, I'll probably order a new one while it's still available.


The connector for it is installed under connector C302, to the right of the window comfort relay.


The driver's seat belt lock with the limiter will probably also have to be ordered new, or bought in the USA.


Or do it yourself - I bought a lock from newer models, I'll try to rearrange the end cap from it to my lock.
And so far, only the wiring connector is connected to it.


We connect the wiring to the second gong connector of the on-board computer.


As if everything is simple and should work ;)

2. Driver's airbag control lamp

I wrote about the safety pillow last time - I will not repeat it.

3. Oxygen sensor control lamp (lambda probe)

An interesting option for the US market. I found information about it on the Internet, so I don't know how reliable it is :) People write that a special fuse is installed in the speedometer, which trips every 30 thousand miles, and turns on this lamp. This signals that it is time to check the operation of the lambda probe. This lamp has no electrical connection with the lambda probe itself.

The fuse is placed here.




To implement this option, you need to add one wire to the BSK connector (pin 5), and connect it to the green connector of the instrument panel C6 to the O2S pin, according to the ETM diagram.


I already mentioned the green connector earlier. This is an additional connector that can be installed on any E30 dashboard. It looks like this:


All his pins are signed on the board.


There are only 5 "tracks" on the board with contacts for connecting to the speedometer:


1) Track V - this pin goes on the green case on the left to two identical parallel 1-pin connectors (V), which are not found anywhere in the ETM schematics. Therefore, I have not yet managed to find out what is connected there.

2) Track Tempo - speed signal from the speedometer, this contact goes to the green housing on the right to three identical parallel 1-pin connectors (A).

Additional options were connected to these connectors:
- cruise control;
- automatic transmission with electronic control;
- standard audio system with automatic volume level adjustment, depending on the speed of movement;
- standard telephone with automatic volume level adjustment, depending on the speed of movement;
All three connectors are parallel, so it is not important which option to connect to which of the three connectors.

3) Track 31 - usually marked as "ground", this pin goes to the green case on the right, to the same three connectors as the Tempo track. But judging by the board - this track is not used at all, because there are no pins on it either on the side of the speedometer or on the side of the connectors - they are all "muted" on the board.

4) Track O2S - mileage signal from the speedometer, this contact goes to the green housing on top of the first pin of two identical parallel 2-pin connectors (O2S).

5) Track 15 - this is usually how the +12V power supply is marked, this pin goes to the green case from above, to the second pin of the same two connectors as the O2S track.
But judging by the board - the right 2-pin connector is not used at all, because there are no pins on the side of the connectors - they are "muted" on the board on both tracks, respectively. An additional BSK option is connected to the left 2-pin connector - lambda-probe control. But this option was only available on machines for the US and Japanese market.

Connecting the green C6 connector to the speedometer looks like this:


It can be seen that, in fact, only one pin out of four is connected to an ordinary speedometer for the European market - Tempo(A). There are no corresponding contacts for all other pins on the speedometer board.

That is, they are not used in the European version. Apparently, for their use, at least, a speedometer from the "American" instrument panel is required.
And the European version only uses three 1-pin connectors (A) to the right of the Tempo track.

But I plugged it in! :)


All that remains is to find an American dashboard to make it work... :)

4. Catalyst overheating control lamp

This option was only available for the Japanese market. It controls the temperature of the catalyst. Information and all photos are taken from the Internet.
A sticker with a warning - do not park on dry grass when the catalytic converter is overheated, so as not to cause a fire.


Temperature sensor in the catalyst


Thermal relay


I did not find an electrical diagram for this option. But I don't need it, since I removed the catalyst a long time ago. I plan to use this lamp for other purposes - to control motor overheating. I will connect it to the air conditioner fan temperature sensor. But more on that later in the air conditioner entry.

So, the wiring is done for all four lights, but none of them will work yet... :) But eventually, I'll find the right parts, install them, and everything will work! ;)