E30 from Ukraine - "Shadow of Intelligence"

[The_Glory]

Assembly_197. ETK_51_Front bumper (part 1)

Finally, it's time to install the bumpers. I'll start with the front one.

Front bumper




Part #1 - middle front bumper (51 11 1 888 265) - standard chrome bumper.
But in my case it is now - primed middle front bumper (51 11 1 959 911) - optional bumper for painting in body color. Used with the option "S339 Shadow Line equipment kit".
Part No. 2 - left front bumper (51 11 1 888 391) - standard chrome bumper.
But in my case it is now - primed left front bumper (51 11 1 959 907) - optional bumper for painting in body color. Used with the option "S339 Shadow Line equipment kit".
Part No. 3 - right front bumper (51 11 1 888 392) - standard chrome bumper.
But in my case it is now - primed bumper right front (51 11 1 959 908) - optional bumper for painting in body color. Used with the option "S339 Shadow Line equipment kit".
Part No. 4 - left trim (51 11 1 888 269) - for the standard chrome bumper.
But in my case it is now - primed left trim (51 11 1 959 887) - optional trim for painting in body color. Used with the option "S339 Shadow Line equipment kit".
Part No. 5 - right trim (51 11 1 888 270) - for the standard chrome bumper.
But in my case it is now - primed right trim (51 11 1 959 888) - optional trim for painting in body color. Used with the option "S339 Shadow Line Equipment Kit".




Part No. 6 - screw (51 12 1 843 029) - 4 pcs. Flat head screw for square hole. I bought similar M8x25 screws at a hardware store. For assembling bumper parts.
Part No. 7 - nut with washer M8 (51 11 7 070 183) - 6 pcs. For assembling bumper parts and attaching them to brackets.
Part No. 8 - leaf nut ST4,8-13-ZNS3 (07 12 9 904 223) - 2 pcs. For fastening pads No. 4, No. 5.
Part No. 9 - self-tapping screw ST4,8X13-Z2 (07 11 9 907 957) - 2 pcs. For fastening pads No. 4, No. 5.

Part No. 10 - protective strip (51 11 1 888 266) - 1 pc. Central plastic plate for the license plate. For the M-Technic I body kit, a plate (51 11 1 953 715) is used, which compensates for the gap from the apron.
Part No. 11 - left protective strip (51 11 1 888 273) - 1 pc. Left plastic trim. For the M-Technic I body kit, a trim (51 11 1 953 713) is used, which compensates for the gap from the apron, and does not have a lower protrusion on its extreme end.
Part No. 12 - right protective strip (51 11 1 888 274) - 1 pc. Right plastic trim. For the M-Technic I body kit, a trim (51 11 1 953 714) is used, which compensates for the gap from the apron, and does not have a lower protrusion on its extreme end.
Part No. 13 - strip clamp (51 11 1 838 076) - 8 pcs. Clips for attaching the strips. For the M-Technic I body kit, a threaded clamping screw (51 11 1 919 151) - 6 pcs. and M6 nuts (07 14 7 134 319) - 6 pcs.

Part No. 14 - bracket (51 11 1 888 122) - 2 pcs. Brackets for attaching the bumper to the body.
Part No. 15 - bolt M8X16-8.8-ZNS3 (07 11 9 902 900) - 4 pcs. Fastening the brackets to the body. The ETK also indicates M6x16 bolts, but this is probably another mistake.

Part No. 16 - self-tapping screw ST6,3X22-C-Z2 (07 11 9 916 971) - 2 pcs. For attaching the bumper on the sides.
Part No. 17 - protective cover (51 11 1 888 293) - 2 pcs. Plastic plug for attaching the bumper to the brackets.
Part No. 18 - leaf nut ST6,3 (51 11 1 900 386) - 2 pcs. For attaching the bumper on the sides.

Part No. 19-22 - not used. These are side panels consisting of two separate parts. They were used on the earliest cars.
Part No. 23 - a set of fastening elements ( 51 11 9 057 083). A complete set of fastening elements for assembling and installing the front bumper, including parts No. 6 - No. 9, No. 13-No. 18. Unfortunately, it is no longer available for order.
In the photo from the Internet, there are even clips for attaching the license plate and some other unnecessary elements.


So, first we screw the bumper brackets to the side members. Two M8 bolts on each side.


The bracket is placed in this position - with the straight side up, and the beveled side down.


Installed. They do not require any position adjustments. The size of the holes on the bumper is sufficient for this.


Now we start assembling the bumper itself.
We fasten the side parts to the bumper - 2 bolts and M8 nuts each.


Since I am not using the original bolts, I had to cut off the cap a little on the two upper bolts so that it would not interfere with installing the pads later.


The rounded cap on the front two bolts does not interfere.


We do not tighten the nuts immediately. We try on the bumper, adjust the angles of the side parts in relation to the body.




After that, we carefully remove the bumper and tighten all four nuts. We install the mounting plate for attaching the pads.


We put the cover on the bumper and screw it in with a self-tapping screw.






Done.


The cover is good, the sawn-off bolt head does not interfere.


There are some more holes on the side parts of the bumper, but I don’t understand what they are for. There are no corresponding holes in the central part, so they are not used.


We install special mounting plates with a plastic spacer on the sides of the bumper and self-tapping screws for fastening.




The metal parts are assembled. Now you need to install the plastic linings. They are attached using metal clips. To make the clips hold better in the linings and press them, I glued splen gaskets to them.


We insert two clips into the side linings and four clips into the central lining. In the central lining, they are initially placed only at the edges. The two clips under the license plate are inserted after the lining is installed on the bumper.


We snap the clips into the holes in the bumper. The clips are not new, they have lost a little elasticity, so some of them had to be pulled out from the inside to lock them in place.


Two clips on the sides. You need to make sure that the plastic guides also fall into the corresponding holes on the bumper.


You also need to carefully hook the upper part of the trim with a special hook to the edge of the bumper. Often it is already broken.


By the way, when installing the M-Technic I body kit, it is not necessary to install other M-Technic I side panels. According to the EBA factory instructions, it is allowed to simply cut the lower protrusions at the extreme ends of the side panels.

Now we snap the two central clips - from the outside, right through the panel.


The plastic panels are installed.


As I wrote above, to attach the plastic overlays, you can use the original M-Technic I body kit mount, which is a metal mounting plate with an M6 threaded stud, which is pressed from the inside with an M6 nut. This will be easier, more reliable and faster. You will need 6 pieces in total. The central mount under the license plate remains on two standard metal clips.

The front turn signal housing is also part of the bumper overlays. We insert them from the outside, align all the overlays and press them, screwing the turn signals with two self-tapping screws.






The front bumper is assembled. Only two plugs remain to be installed after it is installed on the car.


The bumper is ready for installation.

[The_Glory]

The long-awaited moment is approaching. The bumpers will look very stylish on the beautiful blue car. Great job, the bumpers look great. The protective polish you used is very sensible; corrosion is the biggest enemy of these cars. I'm eagerly waiting :) :)

Thanks, I think it will look good!
I tried to prevent future corrosion as much as possible. Hopefully this will work.

[anilatasy]

The long-awaited moment is approaching. The bumpers will look very stylish on the beautiful blue car. Great job, the bumpers look great. The protective polish you used is very sensible; corrosion is the biggest enemy of these cars. I'm eagerly waiting :) :)

[The_Glory]

Painting bumpers part 3

Almost a year ago I already wrote about how I tried to paint bumpers myself.
Although, I was going to paint them at the painter who painted the car.
But the sellers at the paint selection convinced me that their paint, made according to the BMW code in aerosol cans, is no worse than the painter's.... I didn't really believe it, but I really wanted to quickly completely assemble the car and drive away! ) So I decided to try it...
Preliminarily, the chrome was completely removed with industrial sandblasting. Then the bumpers were treated with a rust converter, cleaned with a solvent. Aerosol acid primer was applied, and then aerosol 2-component acrylic primer. Then, as best I could, I puttied small defects on the surface, and blew with acrylic primer again.
And finally, I tried to paint a small panel from a can. It's good that I had the sense to not paint everything at once! I didn't get the color or texture right! )) It turned out to be some kind of solid matte shagreen! Or crap! ))) Which after a while also cracked with tiny cracks...
So, no matter what kind of paint was in the aerosol can, you can't paint a car with it properly! Now, I know that for sure! )
The primed bumpers lay in the garage for almost a year. I'm glad that no rust has formed on them during this time!


And finally, I made an agreement with the painter and took the bumpers to him for painting. He said that I was a very bad "painter"! )) And it would be better if I didn't do anything! )) But, we have what we have! )
He re-plastered and primed them.




And in the end, I got beautifully painted bumpers.






But the inside wasn't completely painted. So I decided to paint it anyway - don't waste the paint in the can! ) I've already painted the bottom of the car the same way before - it turned out fine.


For the inside, spray paint was just right!


Then I coated the inside of the bumpers with a clear wax anti-corrosion agent.




The final result - the bumpers are ready for assembly.


It turned out not bad...

[The_Glory]

"Opening of the 2026 season"

Well, spring has come, dry, sunny weather. The puddles and mud have dried up. At least they patched up the potholes on the roads a little. I can try to drive on the E30! )
It sat in the garage for half a year. For some reason I didn't cover it with a tarpaulin right away, and then it was too late - it quickly became covered with a thick layer of dust... Something needs to be done with this "temporary" sand and gravel on the garage floor...




So first wash it with plenty of water from the hose to wash away as much sand dust as possible.




And then a regular gentle hand wash! )
A completely different look!








I drove down my street a few times - for the first time, that's enough! )

P.S.
So that the entry is not completely pointless, I will "announce" some news.
If you noticed, I removed the temporary front bumper. Because the bumpers are finally painted and waiting to be installed.

[The_Glory]

RAID Steering Wheel

Recently, at a club flea market, I accidentally and spontaneously bought an original RAID steering wheel with an adapter for a BMW E30.


In good condition and for a nominal amount. In fact, for the price of the adapter.


In principle, I bought it for the adapter and the "golden" screws.




To install it on my BBS handlebars, which I will restore someday...


RAID with a diameter of 32 cm, noticeably smaller than BBS


And probably "eccentric"


Probably, I'll install it on my car...although, we'll see... ) And for now, it will be just for the collection! ;)
But with the adapter, not everything turned out so simple. It turned out that the RAID has a diameter of holes with an M6 thread and a size of 6x74 mm, and the BBS has a diameter of holes with an M5 thread and a size of 6x70 mm. Therefore, they do not match.


In addition, the holes have a different location, relative to the "top" mark on the adapter. In RAID, the two upper holes are on the sides of the mark, and in BBS, one upper hole falls directly on the mark.


Therefore, even if you drill holes in the BBS steering wheel, it will either be crooked or the turn switch will not work. And even so, I would not dare to barbarically spoil such a rare steering wheel! )
That's why I decided to "spoil" the adapter! ) Between the 6x74 holes, I marked 6x70 holes, drilled and cut an M5 thread. Now the adapter has become more universal! ;)


The "golden" M6 bolts, of course, did not fit, but now the BBS steering wheel can be installed on this adapter. I tried it on - everything is OK.


There will be a separate post about the restoration of the BBS steering wheel someday, but for now, it will lie on the shelf in the garage with this adapter and the RAID steering wheel until better times...

[The_Glory]

Odometer repair

I didn't have time to go on a trip, and it was already broken! )))

When I was assembling the dashboard, I replaced the broken odometer gears in it. But I used the original old gears from the "donor" dashboard. And in vain. The 40-year-old plastic in them was in the same condition, so they were only enough for 16 kilometers! )
So, it's time to go out again soon, so I decided to repair the odometer again to count that not significant mileage ;)
I removed the dashboard.
We unscrew the 4 self-tapping screws on the back of the speedometer.


We remove the green connector housing for additional options.




Now you can remove the speedometer from the dashboard housing.
The reason is immediately visible - a broken tooth on the brown gear:


We unscrew the two small screws and remove the transparent cover.


And we see broken teeth on the brown and green gears.


These two gears are quite easy to remove from the axles, but the green gear just fell apart!
This time I already bought a new repair kit for the Motometer gears. (For VDO, the gears differ in the number of teeth.)


The lower black gears are usually intact. But the upper ones, brown and green, are probably made of a different type of plastic, which after 40 years begins to decompose into atoms! )


We install new gears and lubricate with special silicone grease. The hole in the small yellow gear had to be slightly enlarged so that it fit tightly on the axle.


We install a transparent cover.


We install the speedometer and screw it in with four screws. We insert the green connector for additional options (cruise control, radio, telephone, automatic transmission, O2 sensor).


I hope that now the odometer will work for a long time.
We screw the case with the glass of the instrument panel.


We install the instrument panel on the car, and check all the connections to it. In my case, in addition to the standard connectors, these are a few more wires and lamps of additional options.

[The_Glory]

Cassette boxes again

Recently, I accidentally bought some more cassette cases for a small price. ) Three boxes with full indicators in excellent condition, and three broken frames with full indicators.


I took out my cassette case collection again to "update" it a little.


One cassette case was missing one full indicator, and the two boxes differed in color.


Once again I went through the optional cassette decks for the E30, - now all three of their types are fully complete and functional.


I assembled another cassette deck with defects from the remnants.


And there were defective parts left.


I also decided to restore the "music" in my garage torpedo. The old JVC CD-radio stopped working properly, so I decided to replace it with a practically new SONY with mp3, which I used in the car for a short time, before installing the original radios.


P.S.
I took the bumpers to the painter for painting. I hope that by the spring departure the car will be completely assembled.

[The_Glory]

Additional functions of the BSC - SRS lamp (Airbag)

During the process of assembling the car, I already wrote about installing the top version of the on-board control system (BSC) for the Japanese market, and described its additional functions. One of them is the driver's airbag indicator lamp - SRS (Airbag). Recently, I learned something new about it, so I decided to make another separate entry about it. Although, this is a trifle.

So, the problem was that with this top unit, the CHECK indicator lamp on the instrument panel did not work. Someone had already tried to repair the board, or solder something there, but nothing sensible came of it. I found out a long time ago that the additional 4 lamps are provided on all units, but on the European market they are simply not used. Therefore, I decided to buy a regular standard unit to take a whole board from it. Although, I still have a regular standard unit for the US market, but it is in perfect condition, and I felt sorry to throw it away.
In the photo from top to bottom - the top unit for Japan, the standard unit for the USA, the standard unit for Europe:


And here I was unsuccessful! ) The units are from three different manufacturers - VDO, HELLA, BOSCH. The connector and functionality are the same, but the location of the four additional lamps on the board is different! Accordingly, the location of the holes for the lamps in the housing is different. I bought HELLA.


Obviously, simply moving the HELLA board into the VDO housing will not work.
Therefore, I decided to move the VDO light filters into the HELLA housing. I disassembled both units, and here I was unsuccessful again! ) It turned out that the backlight in the blocks is implemented completely differently.


In HELLA it is just a lamp that shines through the slots in the housing and an amber light filter - quite primitive. And in VDO the backlight is implemented much better - through a separate transparent amber light guide in the housing, to each lamp. The light filter and the glass with the icons are separate parts.


Therefore, the backlight in VDO looks and shines much better and more beautifully than in HELLA. Of course, I decided to look for a VDO block. I bought two more )


Then it turned out that the backlight in one was not working, and the "Motor Oil" lamp in the other was not working. Another failure...
But later, a clubmate sent me three more VDO boards.


And finally, one of them turned out to be fully functional! )
But during all these "tests" I noticed that on one board, in addition to the four additional lamps, there is one more lamp!


I had never seen it there before.


As it turned out, its contacts are parallel to the driver's airbag lamp (SRS).


That is, in cars with an airbag, a backup indicator lamp for the airbag is provided. I also did not see this in the ETM diagrams. I do not know why this is done, obviously for safety. Apparently, so that this lamp glows brighter than other lamps nearby and attracts more attention from the driver. Or rather, so that the backup lamp glows, even in the event of a failure of the main lamp.
Unfortunately, the coolant level lamp did not work in this board. Therefore, I had to choose a standard board, without this lamp. But, in any case, I decided to add this lamp - if we are going to assemble the top version! ;) Especially since there is a place for it on all boards. And I have such lamps left in stock after replacing them in the backlight of the on-board computer screen.
So, we solder the fifth additional lamp to its regular place.


Parallel to the main lamp


A fully working board in the top configuration is ready.


We assemble the top VDO unit.


Now it is clear why there is an additional hole in the housings of all units near the driver's airbag lamp.


For a backup lamp.




We install a light filter on top of the housing with a light guide.


Cover the case with glass with icons.


Connect and install the unit in the car.
We check the functionality.
In the "test" mode, when you press the button, all the lamps and their backlight work.


When the ignition is turned on, the brake light control lamp lights up, the backlight and the CHECK lamp on the instrument panel blinks.


After pressing the brake pedal, all the lights go out - everything is OK.


All the same in the video:

https://youtube.com/shorts/4uPSerUghtw

The SRS lamp will never work for me, but for the record, now it is installed there as it should be ;) Later I will write about installing impact sensors for the airbag, because I installed the wiring for them together with the other wiring. Maybe I will install the ECU unit. But I am not going to install the steering wheel with the airbag at all. Firstly, a 40-year-old airbag installed independently does not inspire much confidence in it... ) And secondly, I have never liked the design of the steering wheel with the airbag for the E30, especially its early version - it is just terrible! )
So, this will just be a "decorative" function for the top-end configuration! ;)

P.S.
The OVERHEAT function is visible in the video. It does not work normally for overheating of the catalyst, but simply signals the activation of the air conditioner fan to the second speed in automatic or manual mode.
Later I will also improve the driver's seat belt control function - it will work in normal mode.
And the O2 SENSOR function can only be implemented if there is a speedometer for the US market. I did the wiring, but I don't really like the scale in miles. Therefore, this question is still open... maybe somehow it will be possible to make some kind of "hybrid" of a speedometer for the US with a scale for Europe... ;)

[The_Glory]

Gift - BMW E30 M3 Touring 3-door

A year ago I gave my daughter an E30 for her birthday, and recently she brought me a gift from Lviv region.


Also an E30, and an "exclusive" one - the M3 Touring 3-door! ;)
Here's one:




Of course, Hot Wheels is not a collectible scale model, but just a toy. Besides, the car model itself doesn't exist in real life, but it's cool! )








It was really nice to receive such a gift from my daughter! I put it on the shelf next to her previous gift - M8 ;)


Well, that was a "lyrical digression" ) , but on topic, I'll write about some little things later.

[The_Glory]

RADIOPASS Cards

So, the car has been in the garage since the end of September last year. Winter is already ending, and I haven't done anything with it. Although, I was going to paint and install the bumpers and paint at least one set of wheel rims by spring.... I already gave up on planning something...
There are two reasons for this - lack of finances, and lack of electricity. Or rather, it's one and the same reason - damned Russian bastards!
My garage is in the basement, and due to constant rocket attacks and blackouts, we only had electricity for a few hours a day all winter, and then mostly at night. In addition, it was very cold this winter. Therefore, it was physically impossible to do anything in the garage.

But, one day, I remembered that I was going to make code cards for my radios. I had already ordered blank forms for them and a sticker for the glass.


The forms are made according to the original card.
Not an exact copy, but still more like "old school" than the new black originals (01 39 9 781 688).


The back is clean.


If you print a full copy, on both sides, with text and codes for each radio, then each card is quite expensive. So at first I wanted to just write the codes manually in the same forms - as on the new original cards. But, either I explained it poorly, or I was misunderstood - and all the cards were made with the name of one model of the radio, which was on the sample - "RADIOPASS BMW BUSINESS RDS". Therefore, the model of the radio had to be glued. I decided to print the codes separately and paste them into the cards, rather than write them manually.
There was no light in the garage, so I settled down at home in the kitchen. )


I cut out strips with the model names and codes and glued them onto the cards.


Maybe a little "collective farm", but now the goal was to always have the codes for each radio "at hand", and not to look for them somewhere in the notes on pieces of paper every time. Maybe someday I'll make a model myself and print them out right away with the codes, but for now it will be fine )


I caught a moment while it was light in the garage to spread the cards out on the radios and stick a sticker. I also saved the papers with the codes just in case ;)


Currently, the car has a BMW BAVARIA C BUSINESS radio, so I put the corresponding instructions and a card with the code in the documentation folder.


The SAFETY BMW BAVARIA sticker is usually glued to the driver's door glass, but I already have a sticker for the standard alarm there, so I glued it next to it, on the rear door glass. It is glued to the inside of the glass.


I was a little worried that this sticker would look like a bright red spot on a blue car, but in fact it turned out to be almost invisible on the glass.


The text is even difficult to read.


A bit of strange logic - a warning that is almost not noticeable... )


Now everything is as it should be in a car with "music"! )

A little later I will write about one more little thing.

Or maybe I will paint the bumpers.... )

[The_Glory]

Ohh thank God, I finally got my hands on a "Shadow of Intelligence E30" thread. Mr. The_Glory (I apologize for not knowing your name), I've been reading all your posts one by one for the past 3 weeks. :)
I've read almost everything: your local sites, other E30 forums, and the blogs you've created. Truly, you're an idol for me, both as a subject and a writer. I've probably read all the processes three times, taken notes, and saved all the data you provided. I'm honestly very excited about the car's final state. After the brakes, the bumpers were completely installed, and I'm wondering if the car is finished. I hope everything is going well for you and the E30. I have a 1990 3.16i E30 in the same color and I'm doing a basic restoration. I was selling my car, but your thread changed my mind :)
If this topic were discussed in our country, you'd probably receive thousands of positive comments. :)

Hello! I am sincerely grateful to you for such a nice assessment of my work! ) I am glad that you found it interesting and useful.
Unfortunately, I did nothing more with the car, because because of these damned Russian animals, we have electricity only a few hours a day, and mostly at night. Besides, it is still very cold. The garage is in the basement, so in the dark and cold I physically have no way to do anything there.

Your car has a beautiful color! ;) I wish you success in restoring it!

And thanks again for the kind words! )

[anilatasy]

Ohh thank God, I finally got my hands on a "Shadow of Intelligence E30" thread. Mr. The_Glory (I apologize for not knowing your name), I've been reading all your posts one by one for the past 3 weeks. :)
I've read almost everything: your local sites, other E30 forums, and the blogs you've created. Truly, you're an idol for me, both as a subject and a writer. I've probably read all the processes three times, taken notes, and saved all the data you provided. I'm honestly very excited about the car's final state. After the brakes, the bumpers were completely installed, and I'm wondering if the car is finished. I hope everything is going well for you and the E30. I have a 1990 3.16i E30 in the same color and I'm doing a basic restoration. I was selling my car, but your thread changed my mind :)
If this topic were discussed in our country, you'd probably receive thousands of positive comments. :)

[Vincenze]

I think I had the last one I pulled listed for $50 over a year before someone finally bought it, to cut the bellhousing for a conversion project.

I checked videos on YouTube.
People say the ZF 4HP22 is a very reliable transmission.

If nobody needs it, then it rarely fails.

For comparison, everybody wants to buy an M20 head.

[The_Glory]

Thank you.

All EBAs are available here
http://www.ow.no/index.php?option=com_wrapper&Itemid=34

Yes, I know about this catalog. But I have four CDs with EBA catalogs. And there are a few more instructions there. At least those that concern the E30.