E30 from Ukraine - "Shadow of Intelligence"

[The_Glory]

Collection_138. ETK_12_Engine electrical equipment. Generator

Let's go to the ETK section
Engine electrical equipment

I'll start with the units on the generator.

Alternator mounting parts




Part #1 - support bracket (32 41 1 264 642).
Part #2 - bolt M8X30 (07 11 9 913 664) - 2 pcs.
Part #3, #6, #12 - elastic washer (07 11 9 932 095) - 5 pcs.
Part #4 - bolt M8X60 (07 11 9 901 797) - 1 pc.
Part No. 5 - bolt M8X85 (12 31 1 716 014) - 1 pc.
Part No. 7, No. 11 - self-locking nut (07 12 9 946 400) - 3 pcs.
Part No. 8 - clamping plate (12 31 1 274 833) - 1 pc.
Part No. 9 - tension mechanism gear (12 31 7 677 914) - 1 pc.
Part #10 - screw with a semicircular head M8X80 (12 31 1 276 516) - 1 pc.

The generator support bracket is also a bracket for the power steering pump. Although, there is also a separate bracket - only for the generator. This is exactly the bracket I had installed earlier, but I replaced it when installing the hydraulic booster. Therefore, I will immediately write here about the fastening of the power steering pump.
Power steering pump. support bracket




In the photo, there was a strange reflection on the plates - as if they were rusty) In fact, they are shiny and beautiful)

Part #1 - support bracket (32 41 1 264 642). The same bracket #1 as for the generator.
Part No. 2 (No. 11) - bolt M8X60 (07 11 9 901 797) - 1 pc. Bolt #4 for the generator.
Part No. 3 - elastic washer (07 11 9 932 095) - 6 pcs. Washer No. 3 for the generator.
Part #4 - bolt M8X30 (07 11 9 913 664) - 2 pcs. Bolt #2 for the generator.
Part No. 5 - mounting plate (32 41 1 284 735) - 1 pc.
Part No. 6 - mounting plate (32 41 1 284 736) - 1 pc.
Part #7 - bolt M8X22 (07 11 9 913 652) - 5 pcs.
Part #8 - ZF mounting plate (32 41 1 128 080) - 1 pc. For VICKERS pump (32 41 1 132 164).
Part #9 - ZF mounting plate (32 41 1 288 597) - 1 pc. For VICKERS pump (32 41 1 132 166).
Part No. 10 - bolt M8X20 (07 11 9 903 039) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 11 - bolt M8X35 (07 11 9 913 676) - 3 pcs.
Part No. 12 - clamping plate (12 31 1 719 992) - 1 pc.
Part #13 - screw with a semicircular head M8X30 (32 41 1 277 375) - 1 pc.
Part No. 14 - tension mechanism gear (12 31 7 677 914) - 1 pc.
Part No. 15 - self-locking nut (07 12 9 946 400) - 1 pc.

So, we assemble the bracket for the generator and the pump. Plates #8 and #9 will be installed later, together with the pump.


We fasten the bracket to the engine block with two bolts from the side and one bolt from the front end.




Next, about the details of the generator.
V-belt




Part #1 - V-belt 9.5X965 (11 51 1 706 710). I bought all the belts from the manufacturer Continental. AVX10X960 generator belt.

Part #2 - insulating part 8/5MM (12 31 1 286 664) - 1 pc. Plastic cover on the terminals of the generator. Plastic washers for generator terminals and nuts with washers for wiring terminals are not specified in ETK.
Part No. 3 - BOSCH generator capacitor (12 31 1 356 564) - 1 pc. According to the Bosch number (0290800036), it is much cheaper.

Part No. 4 - elastic washer B6 (07 11 9 932 099) - 1 pc.
Part No. 5 - bolt M6X8 (07 11 9 913 420) - 1 pc.
Part No. 6 - generator ground wire L=170MM (12 52 1 312 124) - 1 pc. In the original, it is red for some reason - strange. I made it myself from a brown wire, like all "ground" wires in BMW.


I had no complaints about the operation of the generator, but it did not look very beautiful, so of course I also completely disassembled and restored it. Replaced both bearings, brushes, contact rings of brushes, rubber sealing ring, rubber bushings, capacitor. Everything else is cleaned, painted and galvanized.


Several types of generators were installed on the E30. In my case, it is an 80A generator - Bosch Type N 0 120 469 619.
Alternator parts for 80A




Part No. 1 - nut M14X1.5 (07 11 9 901 309) - 1 pc.
Part #2 - spring ring B14 (07 11 9 933 148) - 1 pc.
Part #3 - pulley D=66MM (12 31 1 288 238) - 1 pc. It consists of five parts - two pulley "plates" and three washers.

Part No. 4 - impeller (12 31 1 735 306) - 1 pc.
Part No. 5 - key 4X5 (07 11 9 951 453) - 1 pc.
Part No. 6 - drive support (12 31 1 288 458) - 1 pc. Front cover.
Part No. 7 - retaining ring (12 31 1 276 226) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 8 - spacer washer (12 31 1 268 420) - 4 pcs.
Part #9 - bushing 75 SHORE LANG (12 31 1 268 433) - 4 pcs. I used the 01612 Febi analogue.
Part No. 10 - sleeve (12 31 1 276 227) - 2 pcs. Metal guide sleeve for the bolt.

Part No. 11 - bearing 47X17X14 (12 31 1 722 979) - 1 pc.
Part No. 12 - mounting plate (12 31 1 727 7400 - 1 pc.
Part No. 13 - rotor (12 31 1 288 423) - 1 pc.
Part No. 14 - bearing 28X12X12 (12 31 1 714 521) - 1 pc.
Part No. 15 - generator winding (12 31 1 727 758) - 1 pc.
Part No. 16 - diode panel LIMA (12 31 1 288 457) - 1 pc.

Part No. 17 - ring of round cross-section ( 12 31 1 276 2240 - 1 pc.

Part No. 18 - housing (12 31 1 288 456) - 1 pc.
Part No. 19 - regulator (12 31 1 726 022) - 1 pc.
Part No. 20 - bolt (12 31 1 747 251) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 21 - bolt (12 31 1 727 760) - 3 pcs.
Part No. 22 - bolt (12 31 1 738 099) - 1 pc. Long screw for the ground wire.
Part No. 23 - generator "brushes" (12 31 1 727 756) - 1 pc. Set of "brushes" Bosch (1127014022).

Part No. 24 - rotor repair kit (12 31 1 727 762).

We install rubber bushings in the front cover and metal guides, fix them with washers and a retaining ring. If you look carefully at the ETK scheme, the upper and lower guides are installed from different sides. This is not accidental, and it is important! Previously, I did not pay attention to this and put bushings on one side. At the same time, the generator becomes a little oblique, and probably that is why the upper rubber sleeve was constantly wearing out and the belt began to squeak. The bushings protrude at different distances and this compensates for the difference in the plane of the lower attachment and the tension bar. In later generators, these bushings were completely removed, and different protrusions were simply made on the front cover from above and below.


Install the rubber ring in the generator housing.


We fasten the diode panel with the winding with six screws.


We install the capacitor and terminals.


We insert the rotor with bearings, screw the front cover, pulley and impeller.
Finished result:

Generator




Part #1 - generator (12 31 1 288 409).

Now the generator has a much better look and condition.








Here, the difference in the size of the protrusion of the upper and lower bushings is clearly visible:


We install the lower bracket on the bracket, and the upper - on the tension bar. The tension bar is screwed to the cover pin.






The generator is installed. I will install and tighten the belt after installing all the pulleys.

[The_Glory]

Collection_137. ETK_11_Engine. Engine crankcase block

Engine crankcase block


Again, I did not completely disassemble the engine block, so the photo shows only those parts that were removed.


Part #1 - cylinder block with pistons (11 11 1278 921). There is no such number in ETK for some reason... strange.

Part #2 - bolt M10X75 (11 11 1 735 525). It was not filmed.
Part No. 3 - oil pressure sensor (12 61 1 710 509). I had a sensor installed under the restyling wiring connector, so I left it.
Part No. 4 - plug D=12.0MM (11 11 1 268 539) - 2 pcs. It was not filmed.
Part No. 5 - threaded fitting (11 11 2 140 435). On my unit, there is no place for its installation, just like the fitting itself. Maybe it depends on the year of release...
Part No. 6 - centering sleeve D=12.5MM (11 11 1 280 594) - 2 pcs. It was not filmed.
Part No. 7 - threaded plug AM14X1.5 (07 11 9 919 228) - 1 pc. Plug for draining antifreeze from the engine block.
Part No. 8 - sealing ring A14X18-AL (07 11 9 963 200) - 1 pc. Aluminum.
Part No. 9 - ring of circular section (11 15 1 714 390) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 10 - spacer washer (11 15 1 280 937) - 1 pc.
Part No. 11 - tube (11 15 1 280 938) - 1 pc.
Part No. 12 - spring (11 15 1 265 346) - 1 pc.

Part #13 - threaded plug AM12X1.5 (07 11 9 919 225) - not used.
Part No. 14 - sealing ring A12X15.5 AL (07 11 9 963 130) - 2 pcs. Aluminum.
Part No. 15 - ring of round section 79X2.5 (11 11 1 285 403) - 1 pc. It was not filmed.
Part No. 16 - cover (11 11 1 285 395) - 1 pc. It was not filmed.
Part No. 17 - protective shield (11 14 1 280 826) - 1 pc.
Part No. 18 - cover (11 11 1 714 712) - 11 pcs. It was not filmed.
Part No. 19 - centering sleeve D=14.5MM (11 11 1 743 118) - 2 pcs. One was missing, he installed.
Details No. 20...No. 22 - Not filmed.
Part No. 23 - bearing 11.4X16 (11 11 1 265 412) - 1 pc.
Part No. 24 - sealing ring 42x3 (12 11 1 363 190) - 1 pc.
Part No. 25 - bearing cover (11 41 1 276 333) - 1 pc.
Part No. 26 - bracket (12 12 1 364 199) - 1 pc.
Part No. 27 - bolt M8X28 (07 11 9 913 659) - 1 pc.
Part No. 28 - threaded fitting M12 (11 12 1 740 3960 - 1 pc.

Part No. 29 - rubber gasket 305MM (11 14 1 287 846) - 1 pc.
Part No. 30 - stiffness insert (11 14 1 286 342) - 1 pc.
Part No. 31 - elastic washer B8 (07 11 9 932 095) - 4 pcs.
Part No. 32 - bolt M8X65 (07 11 9 912 535) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 33 - bolt M8X45 (07 11 9 902 955) - 1 pc.
Part No. 33 - bolt M8X80 (07 11 9 912 558) - 1 pc.

Part No. 34 - Torx bolt M8X80 (23 00 1 434 509) - 4 pcs. Manual transmission mounting bolts.
Part No. 35, No. 36 - not used.
Part No. 37 - cover (11 11 1 718 873). In my case, it is not used - an oil dipstick tube is installed in its place.
Part No. 38 - a set of gaskets. It was not filmed.

The bearing cap (#25) is simply pulled up, using a screwdriver or a flat blade. I had it with an old sealing ring. I bought a 42x3 mm ring, but I guess I need to take a little smaller, somewhere 41x3, or maybe even 40x3, so that it fits more tightly on the lid. We put the ring on the cover with the bearing.


We insert the cover and tightly drive it into the engine block until it stops. We fix it from above with a bracket with a bolt.


We put the tube (#11) with washer, spring and rubber rings. I have not put the spring yet, because it is pressed by the intake manifold.
Screw the fitting (No. 28) with an aluminum ring (No. 14).
Install the shield (No. 17) on the bushings (No. 19).
We fasten with bolts (No. 32, No. 33) the stiffness insert through the rubber gasket (No. 29).





We twist the threaded plug (No. 7) through the aluminum ring (No. 8) for draining the antifreeze from the engine block.
We screw the oil pressure sensor (No. 3) through the aluminum ring (No. 14).


That's all for the block.
I skip all other sections on the piston system, since everything necessary there was replaced earlier.












Next, probably a little about attachments...

[The_Glory]

Collection_136. ETK_11_Engine. Lubricating system oil filter. Oil dipstick

BMW E30 cars with the M20B25 engine were equipped with an oil cooler as standard. To install its hoses on the engine block, a special oil filter adapter with a built-in thermostat is installed.

Lubrication system oil filter




Part #1 - oil filter (11 42 1 707 779). I always use the Mann-Filter (W71915).
Part No. 2 - ring of round section 65X3 (11 42 1 265 670) - 1 pc. Rubber ring.
Part #3 - PUROLATOR oil filter adapter (11 42 1 711 070). Comes complete with built-in thermostat and spring.

Part No. 4 - ring of round section 20.0X3 (11 42 1 714 764) - 1 pc. Rubber ring installed on the bolt (#6). But it is not round, but flat, and flush with the surface of the bolt. At the same time, the bolt goes in quite tightly. And with a round ring, it may not fit at all... Therefore, although I bought such a similar ring, I decided to leave the old original one. If someone changed it, write what it is in the original.
Part No. 5 - sealing ring A27X32-AL (07 11 9 963 441) - 1 pc. Aluminum.
Part No. 5 - sealing ring A24X29-AL (07 11 9 963 384) - 1 pc. Aluminum. It is not clear what this ring is for. Its size does not fit anywhere and it was not installed there. Perhaps this is another error in ETK. If anyone knows for sure, please write.
Part No. 6 - PUROLATOR hollow bolt (11 42 1 711 071) - 1 pc.

Part No. 7 - set of gaskets (11 42 9 059 338) - 1 pc. The set consists of a rubber sealing ring 24.5x3 mm, an aluminum plug, and a metal retaining ring. I don't understand why it is not possible to order the original rubber ring separately, but only together with the plug and retaining ring? Why change the plug? Therefore, I bought a similar rubber ring 24x3 mm separately, although the old one was normal.


Assembly is simple - insert the thermostat and spring into the adapter.


We put the rubber ring on the plug, insert the plug, compress the spring with it and put the locking ring in the groove. Then we put an aluminum sealing ring on the bolt and insert it into the adapter. We insert a large rubber ring into the groove of the adapter. The adapter is assembled.


We bolt the adapter to the engine block in place of the oil filter in this position. Screw the oil filter to the adapter.


After installing the motor, we screw the hoses of the already installed oil cooler to the adapter.

ETK has another type of oil filter:
Environmental oil filter


I have never met him on an E30. If someone has such a filter, I would be grateful for a photo. I wonder what he looks like. Probably something similar to the filter on the M50 engines...

I skip the other sections on the lubrication system, as they relate to the "innards" of the engine.




As I have already said, during its repair there, everything that was necessary was already replaced.

The next section of ETK
Oil dipstick




Part #1 - oil dipstick L=533.5MM (11 43 1 718 863).
Part #2 - guide pipe (11 11 1 705 786).
Part #3 - bracket (11 43 1 720 566).
Part No. 4 - bolt M6X12 (07 11 9 905 524) - 1 pc.
Part No. 5 - clamp (11 43 1 258 342).
Part No. 6 - M6 nut (07 11 9 905 543) - 2 pcs.


It is important to use the dipstick that matches the motor, as they have different lengths and oil level markings.
The tube is tightly inserted into the engine block. A collar is put on the tube from above, to which the bracket is screwed with a bolt and a nut. The bracket is fixed with a nut and washer to the stud on the intake manifold. Since the collector is not yet installed, I did not install the tube bracket either. So far, I just tried it on in approximately this position.


Next, about the details of the engine block.

[The_Glory]

Collection_135. ETK_11_Engine. Timing belt. Housing of the timing unit

Timing belt




As I said earlier, the motor will not be disassembled, as it was recently repaired, so now only the belt and roller are replaced. And that - more for prevention and beauty.
Part #1 - toothed belt Z=127 (11 31 1 713 361). There are two types - with 127 and 128 teeth. In my case, it is a Continental CT520 belt with 127 teeth.

Parts No. 2...No. 15 - gears of the gas distribution mechanism. I simply cleaned and painted them without removing them.
Part No. 16 - tension roller (11 31 1 711 154). There are two types - for a belt with 127 and 128 teeth. In my case, this is the INA 531000110 roller for a 127 tooth belt.

It is important that the roller corresponds to the number of teeth of the belt! The number of teeth is indicated on it.

Part No. 17 - screw (11 31 1 272 433) - 1 pc. Pin for fixing the roller.
Part No. 18 - spring (11 31 1 267 746) - 1 pc. Belt tensioning mechanism.
Part No. 19 - pin (11 31 1 280 960) - 1 pc. Belt tensioning mechanism.
Part No. 20 - bolt M8X20 (07 11 9 915 093) - 1 pc. Belt tensioning mechanism.
Part No. 21 - timing belt replacement sticker (11 31 1 739 073) - 1 pc. I will glue all the factory stickers after the assembly is completed. For now, I will stick the sticker that came with the belt.

We screw the roller to the block with a pin, but do not tighten it. We insert a pin with a spring and compress it as much as possible. In this position, we fix the roller with a bolt.


When installing the toothed belt, it is very important to correctly set the gears of the crankshaft and camshaft according to the factory marks!
The lower mark - the line on the crankshaft flange must coincide with the notch on the lower cover.


The upper mark - the arrow on the camshaft gear must coincide with the line on the cylinder head.


We set both labels and in this position put the belt on the gear. Then we release the bolt of the roller so that it tightens the belt. We make two complete revolutions of the crankshaft, and check whether the marks have not gone astray.






If the marks are in place, tighten the bolt and roller pin. The belt is installed. Pistons with valves do not meet! :)


The Continental sticker is a great size for this pad. Then I will write the departure date in it ;)


Next, we install the belt covers.
Timing unit housing lower




I did not remove this cover, I just cleaned and painted it.
Part #1 - cover (11 14 1 272 390)
Part #2 - centering sleeve D=10.5MM (11 12 1 726 238) - 2 pcs. I bought these bushings, but they did not help.
Part No. 3 - elastic washer B8 (07 11 9 932 095) - 2 pcs.
Part #4 - bolt M8X22 (07 11 9 913 652) - 2 pcs.
Parts No. 5...No. 9 - oil seals and gaskets were changed during engine repair.

Cylinder block / additional elements

The oil seal and gasket of the rear cover were changed during engine repair.

Timing block housing upper




Part No. 1 - shield upper part (11 14 1 714 863) - 1 pc. There are several types, depending on the year of production. But it has the same number. It is distinguished by the presence of a fastener for a plastic wiring shield and a fastener for a metal tube of the cooling system.
Part #2 - shield lower part (11 14 1 271 862) - 1 pc. There are several types, depending on the year of production. It is distinguished by the presence of a fastener for a crankshaft position sensor. In my case, it is earlier, so the mount for the sensor is not used on it.
Part #3 - bolt M6X22 (07 11 9 904 505) - 1 pc.
Part No. 4 - elastic washer B6 (07 11 9 932 099) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 5 - bolt M6X55 - 1 pc. Here in EKT there is some error. No. 5 is not specified, and instead, No. 6 (07 11 9 912 351) M6X60 is specified. I don't know why, but it turned out to be long for me and did not twist all the way. So I shortened it to 55mm.
Part No. 6 - bolt M8X25 (07 11 9 913 653) - 3 pcs.
Part No. 7 - elastic washer B8 (07 11 9 932 095) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 8 - rubber gasket (11 14 1 269 557) - 1 pc. Rubber protective shield.
Part #9 - not used.
Part No. 10 - hook (11 14 1 706 959) - 1 pc.

Part No. 11 - crankshaft position sensor (12 52 1 279 695) - 1pc. I will write about it later separately in the appropriate section.
Part No. 12 - bracket (11 14 1 713 173) - 1 pc. Crankshaft position sensor bracket.
Item No. 13 is not used.
Part No. 14 - bracket (11 14 1 716 134) - 2 pcs. Plastic shield bracket for sensor wiring.

Part No. 15 - shield (11 14 1 716 133) - 1 pc. Shield for sensor wiring.
Part No. 17 - centering sleeve D=10.5MM (11 12 1 726 238) - 1 pc.
Part No. 18 - centering sleeve D=8.5X13MM (11 12 1 726 244) - 1 pc.

For some reason, I didn't have bushing No. 17 - a hook is attached to it for lifting the motor, so for safety, of course, these bushings should be there. Installed


Now the hook will hold more securely on the bushings.


First screw the lower cover, then the upper one. By the way, the M8 nut that fixes both covers is not specified in the ETK. It is not necessary to tighten it - later, a light bar of the generator will be attached there.


We insert the plastic brackets of the shield into the upper cover, and snap the shield into them, laying the sensor wire under it. The sensor is installed on a bracket screwed to the engine block.


A protective plastic spiral is put on the sensor wire so that it is not damaged by the pulley, but I will write about it in the appropriate section.


A protective rubber shield is placed on the back of the cover. The sensor wire is clamped on the shield.




All protective timing covers are installed.


Next, the oil filter adapter.

[The_Glory]

Collection_134. ETK_11_Engine. Water pump of the cooling system. Thermostat housing

So, we start the assembly with the water pump.
Cooling system water pump




My E30 had the entire cooling system installed from the E34. In my opinion, a radiator with a built-in expansion tank looks more aesthetically pleasing under the hood than a separate remote tank with its additional hoses. The early E30 tank, in general, looks somewhat archaic, and I have nowhere to install the late tank, because there is no bracket for its attachment on the body. Yes, there will be another tank there, but I will write about it in turn. So, I leave everything as it was. But there is one caveat - the pump was installed from before the restyling E30 (11 51 9 071 561), so there was no attachment for the metal tube of the cooling system. Therefore, I bought a new pump - already for the E30 restyling (11 51 9 070 758), so that everything was as it should be.

Part #1 - water pump (11 51 9 070 758). I bought an analogue from the manufacturer INA 538016310. The kit included a paper gasket.


Part No. 6 - sealing gasket (11 51 1 722 677). For some reason, I did not like the paper gasket, so I bought a higher quality gasket ELRING 774634
Part No. 10 - bolt M8X20 (07 11 9 903 039) - 3 pcs.
Part No. 11 - elastic washer B8 (07 11 9 932 095) - 3 pcs.
All other individual parts of the pump are no longer available.

For comparison: on the left - the pump before restyling, on the right - after restyling.




The only difference is the presence of a branch for the expansion tank, which I had previously blocked. Now, instead of it, there will be an "ear" for attaching the metal tube of the cooling system.
We wipe the surface of the block, and screw the pump through the gasket with three bolts.


The pump is installed.


Next, we install the thermostat housing with temperature sensors.
Cooling system thermostat housing




Part #1 - thermostat housing (11 53 1 730 470). I once wrote that there are several types of thermostat housings that differ in the number of holes for sensors, but according to ETK they all have the same number. Amazingly. I replaced the housing, it has two additional holes that are closed with threaded plugs.
Part #2 - M8 nut (11 61 1 713 432) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 3 - elastic washer B8 (07 11 9 932 095) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 4 - sealing gasket (11 53 1 722 692) - 1 pc. The price of the original gasket, in my opinion, is too high, and I did not find any analogues, so I cut it myself.


Part No. 5 - thermostat 80CEL (11 53 1 710 953)
Part No. 6 - ring of round section 60X3.5 (11 53 1 265 084) - 1 pc.
Part No. 7 - cover (11 53 1 265 059)
Part No. 8 - screw for removing air (11 53 1 275 881) - 1 pc.
Part No. 9 - bolt M6X25 (07 11 9 913 589) - 3 pcs.
Part No. 10 - elastic washer B6 (07 11 9 932 099) - 3 pcs.


Part No. 11 - sealing ring A14X18-AL (07 11 9 963 200) - 3 pcs. Aluminum 14mm.
Part No. 12 - temperature sensor 1-POL (12 62 1 710 512) - 1 pc.
Part No. 13 - temperature sensor 2-POL M12X1.5 (13 62 1 709 966) - 1 pc.
Part No. 14 - sealing ring A12X15.5 AL (07 11 9 963 130) - 1 pc. Aluminum 12 mm.
Detail No. 15, No. 16 - not used. Instead of them, 14mm threaded plugs are installed.


We screw in the sensors and plugs, install the thermostat and rubber ring, and assemble the thermostat housing.




We install the thermostat housing on the engine through the gasket. Just in case, I lubricated the gasket with sealant. And here again because of the damned Muscovites, they turned off the light!... I was screwing in the dark.


The thermostat is installed.




Then the belt and tags.

[The_Glory]

I haven't written anything in a while - there was no time, but the assembly of the motor is progressing little by little.
All spare parts have arrived, all parts are painted, fasteners are galvanized. The same process is going on, albeit rather slowly. Also because of the russian shit, there is no light in the garage more time than it is - this also significantly delays it.

[The_Glory]

Collection_133. ETK_11_Engine. Power unit

So, I'm starting the next season of the series! :)
Engine

Shortly before taking the car apart for restoration, I completely overhauled the engine. It is in good condition, and there were no complaints about its work. That is why I am not going to completely disassemble it. Purely "cosmetic" work will be carried out - cleaning, washing, painting and assembly, according to the ETK catalog.
Power unit


Although the engine is in good condition, its appearance is not very beautiful. :)






First of all, I removed the manual transmission - there will be separate entries about this. Then washing, cleaning and painting. I decided to paint with heat-resistant paint - I hope that it will hold up better than the usual paint from the previous repair. I will also use aluminum and zinc paints.


After cleaning, all numbers and markings became clearly visible. Everything corresponds to the BMW 325i model.


Including the engine number. By the way, there was an interesting story with him when I bought this car. When completing the documents, the expert looked for the engine number for a very long time, cleaned something there, wiped it, looked... but never found it. And in the end, he made a note - "the engine number is destroyed by corrosion"! :) It's not surprising - because he was looking for it on the large upper platform, not below! ))) After cleaning the lower little area, I finally found out my engine number just now! :)


As you can see, the number is somewhat unusual. I found numbers in this format only in the photo of the American E30. Amazingly. On European cars, the engine number is usually indicated in the following format:
256E
25 - 2.5 liters
6 - 6 cylinders
E - injector

I have simply indicated - 325i, and some numbers. If anyone knows what these numbers mean, I would be grateful for the information.

I'll brag a little about the entire crankcase! :) This is after many years of driving on our "wonderful" roads on a rigid static suspension with -60...80 mm lowering and no additional crankcase protection! ;)


I decided not to paint the crankcase and cylinder head, but simply washed it well and cleaned it mechanically with a brush.

Mechanical cleaning of the engine block.


Treated several times with a rust converter. Solvent washing and degreasing.


Painting in two layers with black heat-resistant paint, with hot drying.


The color is interesting, but too matte - it looks like a primer. Therefore, on top there is a layer of heat-resistant transparent varnish, with hot drying.


Everything is the same on the other side.








The gears are also cleaned and painted with zinc paint, the aluminum cover - with aluminum paint. As I said, I don't see any point in taking them apart - all gaskets and oil seals were replaced when the engine was repaired.


The flywheel is mechanically cleaned with a brush.


And the valve cover has not been painted yet.


I haven't decided yet whether to leave it black, or paint it silver, or at all, put another cover, not painted. Can it be painted in body color? what do you think :) In any case, I will probably paint it with powder paint together with the intake manifold - then I will decide on the color.







Looks good to me. ;)






Most of the parts are also already ready for assembly. It remains to buy some small things - gaskets, rubber rings, washers.


Hinged units are also almost completely ready.
Next time I will write about assembly.

[The_Glory]

Collection_132. ETK_03_Upgrades, accessories. Made from valuable wood species.

An option was available for the E30, which is more common on the more "luxurious" 5 and 7 series - S435 Made of valuable wood. On the E30, this option is not so common. Mainly on machines from ALPINA. Although, sometimes "aftermarket" retrofit kits were also installed there. But now we are talking about the original retrofit kit. This is really real wood, not vinyl decals! ;)

This is the ETK section Retrofitting, accessories

Fine wood finish




Item No. 1 - a set of torpedo linings
Detail No. 2 - an overlay on the torpedo console
Detail No. 3 - a set of overlays on the front door panels
Detail No. 4 - a set of overlays for the instrument panel
Detail No. 5 - overlay on the central panel
Detail No. 6 - cover on the box for small things

So, the complete set consists of seven overlays. In the previous entries about the installation of the torpedo, I have already mentioned some of them. At the moment, I have only two of them - an overlay on the box for small things, and an overlay on the light switch. The overlays are no longer available to order, they are very rare, so it is quite difficult to assemble the whole set. It's good that they were available in only one color - it simplifies the search at least a little. At a minimum, I still want to install an overlay under the instrument panel, but not the front door panels. I don't really like the overlay on the center panel. And the overlay on the torpedo console, in general, looks like a cheap Chinese vinyl sticker. Especially, if there are six buttons for power windows. Therefore, I will not install it. If I still can't find these pads, I'll try to make them to order.

In addition to this kit, a wooden gear lever handle was available.

Gear shift knob retrofitting, wood




Part No. 1 - retrofitting with a gearbox handle, walnut root tree (82 11 9 413 231). Wooden handle without top insert.

After the restyling, another wooden handle of the gearbox lever was available - 25 11 1 434 497. With an upper insert. This is the handle installed in my car.


Well, and for the completeness of the "wooden picture" :) - wooden "aftermarket" MOMO steering wheel.
So, my entire tree set.


All elements need restoration, but I will deal with this when the whole set is assembled. And for now, "we have what we have." (with)
I just renewed the paint on the steering wheel.








By the way, I have had a rare BBS steering wheel with a "carbon" insert lying around for a long time. I plan to convert the insert into a "tree". In the original, there is something similar to "aquaprint", so I will try to do it that way. The original sound signal button is missing, so I will try to make it myself - I have already made the blanks.


For now, I'll install what I have.
Helm.


There is still nothing to install the gearbox lever handle on. :) But there are still plans to "upgrade" it with lighting.

Overlay on the light switch.


Overlay on the box for small things.


General appearance.








A complete restored kit will look much better. ;)

P.S.
As it turned out, for diesel cars, plastic linings in the box for small things also have additional original sound insulation. So for the full effect, I removed them and added similar noise insulation there.






P.P.S.
If someone looked carefully at the photo, they noticed that the left front speaker trim and the headlight adjustment knob are missing. That's because I haven't installed the magnetic alarm lock on the driver's door yet. I will install it after painting along with other parts. This completes the interior assembly.


And then - a new season of this long series! :) Preparation and assembly of the motor.
I pulled it out to the middle of the garage so that it would be convenient to clean and wash it from all sides. After all, I will definitely not put it in this form! ;)






Then about the motor.

[R3VPriest]

Sharp, I love !!

[The_Glory]

Collection_131. ETK_52_Seats. BMW sports seat.

Seats

In the cabin, everything is ready for installing the front seats.
A little general information about them.
Three front seat options were available for the E30: standard seats, BMW sports seats (Sportsitze), and RECARO sports seats.
In the M3 EVO, RECARO SR3 sports seats were installed, which had integrated head restraints, additional lateral support and the possibility of installing 4-point seat belts.
I will write about the seat in more detail, in the form of an FAQ:
In 2-door and 4-door sedans and touring cars, the front seats differ structurally only in the handles and the mechanism for folding the backrest forward, but, in principle, they are interchangeable. The handles and mechanism for folding the backrest forward can be installed on any seat.
The guides of the standard and sports seats are the same, but the RECARO sports seats have a different longitudinal adjustment lever design. There are two types of guides - before 85 and after 85.
I'm not sure, but I read somewhere that the guides on convertibles are higher than on sedans.
Rear and front headrests are the same (except front RECARO).
Front seat heating is different for standard and sports seats, and for fabric or leather upholstery.
The upholstery fabric texture sets were different for the 4-cylinder and 6-cylinder cars.

Depending on the year of production, the engine, the type of trim and the configuration of the car, the seats have many ETK numbers. Therefore, it makes no sense to indicate them.

So, now about my specific seats. At first, completely different seats were installed - the right one is standard, and the left one is from E36. Therefore, almost immediately, I completely replaced them with BMW sports seats (Sportsitze) from a 1992 car (probably from a touring car). I sewed them in black and installed heating. The seats are in very good condition, so there was no point in taking them apart to take pictures and put them back together! :)
So, here I will not describe everything in detail - just general photos - BMW sports seat (Sportsitze).

BMW sports seat




Unlocking the BMW sports seat

As I said above, the handles and forward recline mechanism from the 2-door sedan seats can be installed on the 4-door sedan seats. If there is such a need.
The details of fastening the front head restraints are similar to the rear ones. The headrests are simply inserted into the holes. Can be adjusted in height and inclination. I already wrote about them in the section on the back seat.

BMW sports seat headrest



Rear and front head restraints are the same for standard and sport seats (except front RECARO).

The rear panel of the BMW sports seat



The back panel of the backrest is attached from above with staples, and from below with two self-tapping screws.

BMW sports seat cover


Cladding by the meter




As I said above, depending on the year of manufacture, engine, and configuration of the car, the seats have many upholstery options with different ETK numbers. Therefore, it makes no sense to indicate them.
Fabric, faux leather, and genuine leather upholstery were available. The main colors are black, blue, green, brown, beige, gray, red. Before restyling, and after restyling, these colors had different shades and textures. The upholstery fabric texture sets were different for the 4-cylinder and 6-cylinder cars. There were also special skins for exclusive and individual configurations - M-Technic, Edition and others. On all E30s, the skin has longitudinal seams, except for convertibles, where the seams are transverse.
According to the VIN code, my car had PINIENGRUEN green cloth upholstery (0149) - for cars with 4-cylinder engines (316). But I bought a car with a different interior. The door panels were 0211 ANTHRAZIT, and the seats were re-stitched in a similar fabric. After replacing all the seats, I looked around for the 0211 ANTHRAZIT fabric that was available from 85 for the 6 cylinder engine - just what I needed for my current kit! I still found it and bought it, thanks to a friend.


But in fact, the color was not black, but brown... alas...


At that time, I could not find a black "crow's foot", so I decided to sew the seats simply in black, with transverse seams, like on convertibles. It also turned out very well. But the idea of making the entire interior in black "houndstooth" doesn't leave me... :) Yes, such a fabric is now on sale... I already have a back rest and four headrests in the original 0211 ANTHRAZIT fabric. Someday, maybe, I will have the whole salon "crow's foot" 0211 ANTHRAZIT. Or blue "crow's foot" 0212 PACIFIC - door trims are also already available ;)

The photo shows M TECHNIC decorative overlays (52 10 1 927 000) on the back.

For the E30, front seats were only available for the M3. But I also installed them - the interior looks much better with them! ;)We pierce the skin with them, and bend their spokes inside. One nuance - although I ordered them new, the color of the stickers on the driver's seat quickly began to fade... Therefore, I "laminated" them with a transparent adhesive film.

So, although the seats are in good condition, I still did some minimal "maintenance" of them - I cleaned and lubricated all the adjustment mechanisms, renewed the paint on the guides a little, and cleaned the trim.

BMW sports seat guides


There are two types of guides - before 85 and after 85. Structurally, they differ significantly, but they are interchangeable when attached to the body. Guides up to 85 are attached to the body with three nuts and one bolt at the back near the gearbox tunnel. Guide rails after 85 are attached to the body with two nuts at the front and two bolts at the back. In ETK, simple washers are used in one case, spring washers in another, or they are not used at all - the logic is not clear. Therefore, I prepared both simple washers and spring washers, but in fact I used only spring washers. I have a body of 84, and the guides of 92 - therefore fastening with three nuts and one bolt.


Plastic decorative caps for nuts also come in two types. Both types are no longer available to order. Earlier (before 85) are high, and later (after 85) are low. High caps are not suitable for guides after 85 - they interfere with the longitudinal adjustment of the seat. I had to order low caps for 3D printing.


I cleaned the guides, repainted a little and lubricated all the mechanisms with Teflon grease.




The photo shows the heating connector, which is fixed in a special plastic bracket on the spring frame of the seat. The connector of the driver's seat belt lock is also fixed in the same bracket.

BMW sport seat covers


BMW sports seat accessories


Seat details


All mechanisms work well, so I did not disassemble them - I just cleaned and lubricated them.










1992 year




After that, for "prevention" I cleaned the cladding with a "tornado"


All that remains is to fasten the seat belt locks.


The early locks fit the late guides without a problem. The bolt was closed with a decorative cap.


The seats are now completely ready for installation.
We connect the seat heating connector and the driver's lock, if there is one. It is better to immediately raise the seat to the maximum height on the guides. We install the seat on the body studs and fasten.


Fasten the seat belt, cover the bolt with a decorative cap.


We also close the fastening nuts with caps.


We adjust the position of the seats - installed.






Now it remains only to fasten the steering wheel! :)
By the way, next time there will be the last entry on the assembly of the interior - about a rare option for the E30 - S435 Made of valuable wood species

[The_Glory]

Assembly_130. ETK_03_Front armrest

In continuation of the previous entry, I will write about the front armrest, which I will not install either. :)

This is the ETK section Retrofitting, accessories

Front armrest


Part No. 1 - front armrest (82 11 9 413 202). This is quite a convenient and useful option, but, in my opinion, its implementation in the E30 is, to put it mildly, unimpressive. The manufacturer of the front armrests for the E30 was HUSCO. In this perspective, the armrest looks good (all photos of the original armrest are from the Internet):


But its fastening is simply terrible! It looks like some kind of "carpentry"...


Functionality is also not impressive at all. The armrest has retractable cup holders, but judging by the reviews of the owners, they are very unreliable and fragile. When installing the armrest, the possibility to normally use the shelf on the console or cassette units is excluded. I'm not talking about the phone at all.


Terrible through bolting to the console. How to use cassette units here?


Despite this, such an armrest is a very rare item and has an inadequate price, in my opinion! :) Apparently, this is the case when at one time no one needed it, due to its controversial functionality, so it was almost never ordered. But now, it's a rarity at a huge price! )
In my opinion, the armrest from the E34 is a much better option in terms of design, functionality, and fastening. It is installed instead of a cassette unit.


But I have a phone there. Therefore, I bought and installed an aftermarket armrest for the E30 from KAMEI.
Cleaned, renewed the paint.


Fixing the frame


Fastening the pillow


KAMEI


We collect




But we install it.


The appearance of the KAMEI armrest is similar to the appearance of the original HUSCO armrest


And in terms of functionality, it is much better. The armrest is foldable, and does not interfere with using a shelf, or cassette units, or a telephone.


It has an additional drawer for small items. It also has adjustment of the angle of inclination of the pillow and longitudinal adjustment of its position.


Mounting does not require drilling of the console. The frame of the armrest is fixed with bolts, together with the front seats. Fastening is rigid and reliable. In addition, the frame also serves as "protection" for the rear ashtray, which is often broken by rear passengers with their feet, if there are three of them :)


The fastening does not interfere with the longitudinal adjustment of the seats.


So, in my opinion, the aftermarket KAMEI armrest is much better than the original HUSCO in all respects. The only thing is that it does not have cup holders. But it's even better for me - I never let anyone eat or drink in my car! :)


Now I will write about another convenient little thing - a net for things. In ETK for E30 it is not there for some reason, but it is in the list of original options for E30 - S414 Mesh on the side of the front passenger.
There are no numbers on it, modern such meshes look different, so I cannot claim that this is an original mesh specifically for the E30, but it was removed from the E30 Touring.


Fastening with self-tapping screws through plastic clips.


It is installed on the checkpoint tunnel from the passenger side. The size fits perfectly.




Next time I will write about the front seats.

[The_Glory]

Collection_129. ETK_65_Radio receiver equipment

I almost forgot to write about one thing - a unit for cassettes.

This is the last subsection from the section Audio, navigation, information. systems

Radio accessories






Part No. 1 - block for cassettes (65 14 9 056 554). This is a special console for the handbrake lever with a cutout for installing a C-box cartridge into it.
Part #2 - insert block for the cassette (65 11 1 375 261). A block for one cassette, from which you can dial blocks for different numbers of cassettes.
Item No. 3 is not used.
Detail #4 - napkin for cleaning the antenna (65 12 9 056 514). No longer available to order. Maybe I'll find somewhere later...
Part No. 5 - cartridge for 5 CDs (65 12 9 061 583). For a CD-player. In my case it is not used.

I bought all the blocks for cassettes randomly and collected a whole collection of all their types. But they were all in pretty bad shape. Some even with cassettes. :)


I completely disassembled them, washed them, cleaned them.


The main problem is rusty springs and broken latches.






Of all of them, I made only two in fully working condition.




Blocks are connected in three pieces and inserted into a plastic frame.


Together with the frame, the blocks snap into the hole in the handbrake lever console.
At that time, such units for C-box cassettes were installed on almost all makes and models of cars. Each model had its own special frame for a different number of blocks for cassettes. For the E30, there were three types of six-block cassettes.
The earliest version is with white buttons.




A similar unit for cassettes, but with cassette filling indicators. Each block has a "window". An empty block is a white label. When installing the cassette, the label turns red. You need to find two more unbroken blocks somewhere ;)




Probably after 1985, or maybe after restyling, they started to install cassette boxes with black buttons and cassette filling indicators.




Similar units for cassettes were also installed on the E32, E34, E36, but there they still had a backlight for filling indicators and a frame with a cover. I'm not sure if such cassette units were installed on the E30, although the option for backlighting was provided on the later version. But, if desired, it can be done by adding a backlight lamp.

So, I've tried all three types of cassette units, but I won't be installing them since I already have my phone installed there.
But for the US market there was another version of the cassette block for such a case - in the door pocket. But there is a slightly different construction of blocks - vertical.


I saw such a unit for cassettes on sale only once, I did not have time to buy. I will try to do it myself. So far, I bought "donor" blocks for cassettes for the experiment.

Early version. You need to find two more blocks.




A later version.




I haven't decided which option I will experiment with, but the main thing is that both work well, even without cleaning and washing.




I will write about the result later.

[The_Glory]

Collection_128. ETK_62_Control devices. Additional information devices



Additional information instruments




Item #1 is a digital clock. It comes in two versions - with an amber display and black numbers, or with a black display and amber numbers. Until 1985, it was installed as a basic configuration on cars with 6-cylinder engines, or as an option on other cars.

Part #2 - clock (62 13 1 376 903). After 1985, it was installed as a basic configuration on cars with 6-cylinder engines, or as an option on other cars. My friends gave it to me in this "table" version! ;)


Part #3 - screw M3X10 ( 07 11 9 907 6050 - 4 pcs. For fastening the watch frame.
Part No. 4 - clock face cover (62 13 1 376 904)
Part No. 5 - clock mounting frame (62 13 1 380 009). Suitable for all types of watches.
Part No. 6 - BSK (Activ Check Control) block. It comes in different versions, with inscriptions in different languages, and with different additional lamps depending on the configuration of the machine, respectively with different ETK numbers. In my version, it is a top-of-the-line variant for the Japanese market with all the additional lights and English lettering. In the photo above. The lower version for diesel E28.

Part #7 is a simplified version for cars with 4-cylinder engines, only with additional lamps (63 31 1 376 895).
Part No. 8 - lamp 1.2W (62 11 1 368 299) - 2 pcs. Lamps for the illumination of the clock and the BSK unit. If there are additional lamps, their number increases accordingly.
Part No. 9 - locking spring (62 14 1 369 638) - 2 pcs. For fastening the BSK block.
Part No. 10 - bracket (62 14 1 373 174) - 1 pc. For fastening the BSK block.


I have an on-board computer installed instead of a clock, so parts #1, 2, 4, 5 are not used.
I have already written about the on-board control system (Activ Check Control), its functions and wiring, so now I will write only about the installation of the lamp unit itself.
It was installed on cars with 6-cylinder engines, or in a simplified version on some models with 4-cylinder engines, if they had the appropriate options.
To fix the block in the ceiling panel, you need to install parts No. 9 and No. 10 in its plastic bracket.




After installing the ceiling panel, connect the block to the wiring and firmly insert it into the panel.


So far I've installed the unit with only one extra bulb for the airbag, but later when all the extras are working, I'll install the top-of-the-line version with all four extra bulbs.

The last subsection remains in this section:
Digital clock with outdoor air temperature indicator


I had it installed earlier, but I replaced it with an on-board computer - I already wrote about it. It is essentially the same watch, only with the function of reminding every hour and measuring the temperature. The sensor and gong are similar to those in the on-board computer.
So, that concludes the instrument panel section.

Maybe one day I will also install additional Zender or Hartge devices, but I'm not sure about that... ;)

[The_Glory]

Collection_127. ETK_62_Control devices. Instrument cluster details

There are two manufacturers of instrument panels - VDO and Motometer. In both cases, there are two types of panels - before 86 and after 86. They differ mainly in the SI board, the "oilservice/inspection" scale and the encoder.
By 86, the scale has 5 green, 1 yellow and 3 red LEDs. A mechanical encoder for the tachometer is installed.
After '86 the gauge has 5 green LEDs, 1 yellow and 1 red, also added the "annual service" symbol in the form of a clock between the "oilservice inspection" inscriptions. An electronic encoder for the tachometer is installed.

Unit
Instrument combination details




Part #1 - instrument panel (62 11 1 372 221). In the version for "younger" models with a clock, the glass and case have an additional hole for the button to adjust the hands of the clock. There is no such hole in panels with a tachometer.
Part #2 - overlay (62 11 1 368 8720. Decorative plastic frame.
Part No. 3 - self-tapping screw ST2.9X16 (07 11 9 902 423) - 2 pcs. For fastening the instrument panel.

Part No. 4 - self-tapping screw ST2.9X9.5 (07 11 9 902 399) - 2 pcs. and self-tapping screw B2.9X23 (62 11 1 372 267) - 2 pcs. For fixing the frame. Very important! Do not confuse long self-tapping screws with short ones! The long ones are twisted at the bottom along the edges, and the short ones are at the bottom in the middle! If you twist longer self-tapping screws in the middle, they will damage the tracks on the SI board. You can see it in the photo below - someone before me has already mixed them up! :)

Part No. 5 - instrument panel board (62 11 1 372 255)
Part No. 6 - SI board ( 62 11 1 394 267). There are cases without an "oilservice/inspection" scale, but I have never met such.
Part #7 - SI board (62 11 1 372 258)


Detail #8, 9 - not used.
Part #10 - mechanical encoder (62 11 1 377 668). Mechanical encoder for tachometer. It differs for 4- and 6-cylinder engines. It is installed on the back side of the instrument panel behind the tachometer.



Item #11 - Electronic encoder for the tachometer. It differs for 4- and 6-cylinder engines. It also has differences in different E30 models. It is installed on the front side of the instrument panel under the tachometer.
Detail #12, #13 - light filters for control lamps. They differ depending on the model or configuration of the machine.
Part No. 14 - a light filter for control lamps of turn signals and main beam (62 11 1 372 253).
Part No. 15 - light guide of control lamps of turn signals and main beam (62 11 1 372 247). Plastic bracket for lamps.

Part No. 16 - light filter of the CHECK control lamp (62 11 1 377 674).
Part No. 17 - light guide of the CHECK control lamp (62 11 1 372 266). Plastic bracket for the lamp.
Part No. 18 is a pull rod for zeroing the lower odometer.
Part #19 - not used.
Part No. 20 - button (62 12 1 363 213). To reset the lower odometer.
Detail #21 - a button for adjusting the hands of the clock. Not used in this case.
Part No. 22 - lamp holder (62 11 1 376 716) - 3 pcs. For backlight lamps and battery charging indicator lamp.
Part No. 23 - lamp 12V 3W (07 11 9 905 358) - 3 pcs. Backlight and battery charging control lamp. It is important not to install more powerful lamps, otherwise the amber light filter caps may melt. By the way, they are not listed in ETK.
Part No. 24 - lamp 12V 1.2W (62 11 1 368 299) - 11 pcs. Lamps of control lamps.

Part No. 25 - self-tapping screw ST3.5X16 (07 11 9 907 783) - 9 pcs. For fastening the body of the instrument panel.
Part No. 26 - self-tapping screw ST2.9X13 (07 11 9 906 706) - 8 pcs. For fastening the speedometer and tachometer to the body of the instrument panel.
Part No. 27 - shield (62 11 1 377 373). Instrument panel housing.
Part #28, #29 - not used.
Part No. 30 - connector housing (62 11 1 372 218). Additional green connector.

So my dashboard looked like this.


It is definitely not from this car, and judging by everything - assembled from several instrument panels. There is a hole in the case for adjusting the hands of the clock, but there is no hole on the glass, as the tachometer is installed. VDO case, but all Motometer devices and boards. The body is light gray. I'm not sure if there were such options, although there are similar color dashboards in photos on the Internet. Maybe the case was simply painted. But the main thing is that all the devices work and I like the appearance with this color! :)
But something had to be fixed somewhere. Polished the glass and caps of the light filters of the backlight.


Restored the left housing mount using a "repair kit" using 3D printing.


Now you can assemble the instrument panel.
We install the light guides of the backlight, which are not specified in the ETK, light filters and light guides of the control lamps, the SI-board, the thrust for zeroing the lower odometer. In my case, I still need to glue the hole for the button to adjust the hands of the clock so that it does not glow :)


We insert the light filters of the control lamps.


I added a few more lamps - so I added to the light filter and the corresponding icons for them. I just cut it from another filter and pasted it.
Now I have a CHECK ENGINE light like on US cars


And the reverse R lamp, although it turned out a little worse due to the overlay of yellow on green...


Also installed the optional trailer turn signal light, but with no hitch and no trailer, it won't come on. :)

Next, we screw the speedometer to the board, install the light filter caps on the backlight lamps, and install all the lamps.


On the other hand, we install the mechanical encoder of the tachometer - so that the arrow coincides with the arrow on the housing.




The encoder number is visible through a special hole under the tachometer scale. 10 - encoder for a 6-cylinder engine.


The hole in the case was sealed with paper, I also sealed it with a sticker.
We install an additional green connector for options that use the speed signal from the speedometer. It can be cruise control, radio, telephone and automatic transmission with electronic control. Also, this connector is used by the option for the USA - control of the lambda probe (O2 sensor). The connector is simply inserted into the holes in the case.


The instrument panel has two main connectors - white and blue.
The yellow connector is on all instrument panels, but is used only if there is a digital clock with a thermometer or an on-board computer. On "younger" models, a regular clock can be connected to the yellow connector, which is an option when replacing the clock in the instrument panel with a tachometer. Two clamps are provided on the case for fixing the wiring to the yellow connector.
An additional green connector, if necessary, can be installed on any instrument panel.


So, the instrument panel is assembled and ready for installation.


We connect all connectors, insert additional lamps.


We insert the instrument panel into the torpedo and screw its brackets.


We install a decorative frame and screw it. I remind you once again - this is where it is important not to confuse long and short self-tapping screws! The outermost instrument panels on the sides are long, the middle ones above the steering column are short! NOT THE OTHERWISE!!!


We screw the frame from above to the torpedo with two short black self-tapping screws, which are not specified in ETK.


The instrument panel is connected and installed.


We check - everything works.


After connecting, yellow and three red diodes are lit, so I immediately reset the "oilservice/inspection" scale - now 5 green diodes are lit, as it should be.
I have already written in detail about how this scale works and is reset, and there is enough information on the Internet, so I will not repeat myself.
Next, about the installation of the on-board control system panel.

[The_Glory]

Collection_126. ETK_62_Control devices. Control devices

So, the section
Instruments

Unit
Instruments


I only removed the speedometer from the dash board as I needed to replace the odometer gears. There was no need to remove other devices.


Part #1 - speedometer (62 12 1 381 706). Available with a scale in km/h or miles/h (for the USA). The scale is marked up to 220 km/h, or up to 240 km/h.
Part No. 2 (No. 3) is a tachometer (62 13 1 374 877). Different models of engines have a different "red zone" scale. For 4-cylinder models, it was available as an additional option and was installed instead of the clock. For "older" models, the clock in the instrument panel was not available.
Detail #4 - tachometer without an econometer. Not used in this case.
Part No. 5 - fuel consumption indicator (62 13 1 376 717). The econometer was available only together with the tachometer. Sometimes there is a clock with an econometer scale.
Part #6 - fuel flow meter (62 13 1 374 824) The basic device has a scale in liters - 55 liters before restyling, or 60 liters after restyling. Not used in this case.
Part No. 7 fuel flow meter for cars with an additional tank (62 13 1 381 323). Earlier I wrote about the additional tank. I decided not to install the tank itself yet, but the wiring and device for it are installed. The device has two scales in "volume fractions" - the main tank and an additional one.
Part #8 - remote thermometer (62 13 1 374 816). Engine temperature indicator.

All devices can be of two manufacturers - VDO or Motometer. In my case it is Motometer.

For the past several months I have been driving with a broken odometer. Its gears often fail due to old age. So, we unscrew four self-tapping screws and remove the speedometer from the board.
Motometer




And here is the reason - a small drive gear without teeth.


The next brown gear is also missing teeth.


To access the gears, remove the upper transparent cover.
When trying to remove the gear, it cracked! Although, they are removed very easily.


The next green gear looked like it had completely "melted"... And it also broke into pieces.


Lower black gear targets.


The small drive gear had to be simply scraped off the axle piece by piece.




So, you need to replace the gears. The number of teeth is indicated on them.
Brown 44/17, green 38/23.


Black 31/11 and 33/26.


Small drive gear 12.



The gears simply fit freely on the axle. A small drive gear is put on the axle tightly so that it does not scroll.
After replacing the gears, I had the idea to "reset" the mileage... say - criminal! :)
The dashboard is definitely not from this car, and the mileage on it is still not true.


241359 km - in fact, it is much larger, so there is "nothing to lose" here! ;)
At first I tried turning the odometer back by hand....but at 150,000 miles it would take several days! :) Then I tried turning mechanically with an electric dremel - it was much faster, but the teeth on the gear began to wear out very quickly and they would be enough for a maximum of several thousand kilometers :) I had to change one more black gear...


But then, thanks to the advice of a teammate, I understood how to do it easier and faster!
Unscrew the second transparent cover and coil.


We bend the bracket of the coil so that the axis of the white gears of the odometer does not rest against it.


On the other hand, the axis is flared. I had to turn it a little with a dremel so that it came out of the hole.


We take out the axle and deflect it so that the white gears come out of engagement with the odometer.


Now freely set all "zeros" on the odometer and align all the white gears.


We insert the axis in its place, screw the coil and transparent covers. It is not necessary to roll it - it rests against the coil bracket and will not be able to fall out of the hole by itself.
Reset the lower counter by pressing the lever. Now the odometer works again and it has "zero" mileage! ;)


New life - a new countdown! ;)


Isn't that legal?... :)