E30 from Ukraine - "Shadow of Intelligence"

[The_Glory]

Collection_119. ETK_61_General electrical equipment of the car. Jute wires (part 5)

So, the wiring of all the electrical options I currently have in the cabin is installed. Only the wiring of the torpedo remains to be installed.

Jute wires (part 5)




Part #2 - jute wires of the instrument panel (61 11 1 380 476)

1 - connector C103, for connecting the harness to the main wiring. Pinout:

2 - connector of the left repeater of the turn indicator in the wing

3 - light switch connector


4 - front and rear fog lamp button connector
5 - backlight lamp connector

6 - connector of an electronic or hand clock
7 - connector for the button of the button of the backlight of the box for small things
8 - socket for the lamp shade of the box for small things
9 - connector for charging a rechargeable flashlight

10 - connector of the right repeater of the turn indicator in the wing
11 - connector to the Motronic ECU (signal to the tachometer and econometer)

12 - rear window heating button connector (an additional wire for button illumination is added, similar to cars for the USA, and a blue connector for additional button illumination)
13 - emergency stop signal button connector


I made such a "custom" mount for the C103 connector, but it does not hold very well.


We connect the harness to it, and lay out its connectors.


Before laying and fixing all the harnesses, I remembered that I had only one empty G pin left in the C302 accessory connector. And I thought - why not connect to it the "old school" anti-radar that I had lying around for a long time garages? :)


There isn't much use for it now, but it's a "cool" thing from those times :) Yes, there is a "trace" from its attachment on the torpedo, which will now be covered by it ;). So, I wired it to pin G and connected it. :) There was also a corresponding pin - I left it just in case ;)


Now I have C302 fully engaged - FULL! ;)


After installing the immobilizer, the last hole for wiring in the rubber insert of the motor shield was also used - also FULL! ;)


Well, here is such a "garland" of end caps of the driver's door for all additional options - also FULL! ;)


Finally, ALL the wiring is laid in the cabin, now it just needs to be carefully laid and secured under the torpedo. An on-board computer and alarm ECU are installed.


Part of the harness is fixed with special clamps on the steering column bracket. Others will be attached to the torpedo.


Next, about the installation of the torpedo and, in parallel, about fixing the wiring under it.

[The_Glory]

Collection_118. ETK_03_Upgrades, accessories. Multiple startup aborts

I haven't written about wiring in a long time! :)

The last of the original additional options installed in the cabin:

Multiple Start Interruption




Part No. 1 - multiple start interruption (82 91 9 404 260). State anti-theft system.
Part No. 3 - the key of the lock for multiple start interruptions (82 92 9 402 596). Electronic key.
Part No. 4 - lock for multiple interruption of starting (82 92 9 402 605). Electronic lock.
Detail #2, 5...8 - are not used.

I have written before about my original security system with a magnetic key. Unlike it, this system not only warns of unauthorized entry into the car, but also prevents its theft by breaking several electrical power circuits. Together, these two systems are the "prototype" of more modern security and anti-theft systems.
So, I found the original EBA manual, translated it, de-foamed it and figured out the connection. In principle, everything is easier than it seemed at first! ;) In the instructions, German engineers call after installing the system to destroy all pinouts and remove number tags from all connectors to make the task as difficult as possible for potential thieves! :) For this, they even made ALL the wires black! :) The locations of the ECU and the lock according to the instructions are also arbitrary, at the discretion of the owner. Well, I won't share this "terrible" secret, but if someone really needs it, please contact me! ;)

I prepared the standard wiring for connecting the immobilizer back when it was hanging in my garage on the wall - so I just connect the corresponding connectors in "test" mode to make sure that the system works.


The red diode in the lock flashes - this is already a sign that the system is working.


Press the electronic key fob tightly to the lock - the red diode on the key lights up, and at the same time it goes off on the lock - disarmed. Working!


So, the wiring can now be installed on the car.
I decided to place the lock in the cover of the left button above the radio - closer to the ignition switch. There were several types of plugs - with a hole for diodes of various standard alarms. The hole fit perfectly.


Untangled the wires, wound them in the form of a harness of the required length.


I connected and laid the wiring in the cabin and under the hood, "hid" the ECU somewhere under the torpedo - as recommended by German engineers! ;)
The immobilizer is installed.
Next, I lay the wiring of the torpedo, and you can install the torpedo and finish assembling the interior.

P.S.
I wonder if it is possible to order a duplicate electronic key..? And how is it coded? Because I only have one and its case is a little cracked.

[The_Glory]

Collection_117. ETK_52_Seats. Rear seat.

Seats

In the cabin, everything is ready for installing the rear seats.
A little general information about them.
The Touring, Cabriolet, and M3 had rear seats of a different design.
In the Touring, it could be folded to increase the volume of the trunk. Therefore, the back consisted of four parts.
In the cabriolet, the rear seat is narrower and was a two-seater.
In the M3, the rear seat was two-seater, and had additional lateral support in the center.
I will write about sedans in more detail, in the form of an FAQ:
In 2-door and 4-door sedans, the rear seats are structurally different, depending on the year of production, but, in principle, they are interchangeable, although there are some nuances.
The rear seat cushion before 83 had an additional fastening with two bolts to the body.
The pillow for the 2-door sedan has straight front corners, and on the pillow for the 4-door sedan, they are rounded, for convenience when boarding through the rear door. Structurally, they are interchangeable, but if you put a pillow from a 2-door sedan to a 4-door, the front corners will interfere with the comfortable seating of rear passengers. If you put it the other way around, then there will be a large gap between the side of the 2-door body and the seat in the front part.
The cushion and backrest of the rear seat before 85 are on a spring frame, and after 85 are on paralon. They also have a "mirror" location of fasteners for seat belt locks.
Backrests for 2-door and 4-door sedans are the same.
The back can be plain or with an armrest. The armrest cannot be installed on a regular backrest.
The back with an armrest can only be on a spring frame.
Rear headrests can be installed on any backrest.
Rear and front headrests are the same (except front RECARO).
Rear seat heating was not available.
The upholstery fabric texture sets were different for the 4-cylinder and 6-cylinder cars.

So, now about my specific back seat. Initially, a seat on a spring frame was installed, which corresponded to the 84 year of production of the car. But then I completely replaced all the seats with the top kit from the '89 car - front sport seats and rear seat with armrest and headrests. Changed them in black and installed heating on all seats.

Rear seat spring frame / base


As I said above, depending on the year of production, the engine, the type of trim and the configuration of the car, the seats have a lot of ETK numbers. Therefore, it makes no sense to specify them.
Detail No. 1, 3 - a spring frame, or a paralon pillow. I have a paralon pillow.


The pillow is additionally heated.


Detail No. 2, 4 - a spring frame, or a paralon back. I have a back with an armrest - it is always on a spring frame. It does not exist on Paralon.


Back heating is additionally installed.


1989 year


Part No. 5 - bolt M6X20-Z3-2 (07 11 9 915 032) - 2 pcs. Additional fastening of the pillow to the body. Only for cars up to 83 years. Not used in this case.
Part No. 6 - SCHWARZ protective cap (52 20 1 844 402) - 2 pcs. Black plastic bolt cover. Only for cars up to 83 years. Not used in this case.
Part No. 7 - self-tapping screw ST6.3X16 (07119916965) - 2 pcs. Lower fastening of the back.
Part No. 8 - fastening of the seat belt lock (52 20 1 941 332)
Part No. 9 - fastening of the seat belt lock (52 20 1 941 338)

Installation of the rear seat is very simple. First, we put the back with its staples on the hooks on the body, and fasten the lower fastening with self-tapping screws (#7).


By the way, there is a hole on the plastic threshold cover. I thought that the pad is fixed together with the back with one self-tapping screw. But the holes do not match - it can be seen in the photo. I don't have another hole for the overlay. It is not clear... maybe it also depends on the year of production of the car? Does anyone have a pad bolted to the body at this point?

Insert the belt locks into the fasteners. Pull the straps over the back. We connect the connectors of "custom" heating.


We insert the pillow under the back and fasten its front brackets to the body brackets.


The rear seat is installed.

Seat Cover


Item No. 1 - fabric pillow cover
Detail No. 2 - fabric back covering
Detail #3 - not specified in ETK. It could be the trim clips, but I'm not sure about that...

As I said above, depending on the year of production, engine, and configuration of the car, the seats have many upholstery options with different ETK numbers. Therefore, it makes no sense to specify them.
Fabric, artificial leather, and genuine leather upholstery were available. The main colors are black, blue, green, brown, beige, gray, red. Before restyling, and after restyling, these colors had different shades and textures. The upholstery fabric texture sets were different for the 4-cylinder and 6-cylinder cars. There were also special skins for exclusive and individual configurations - M-Technic, Edition and others. On all E30s, the skin has longitudinal seams, except for convertibles, where the seams are transverse.
According to the VIN code, my car had PINIENGRUEN green fabric upholstery (0149) - for cars with 4-cylinder engines (316). But I bought a car with a different interior. The door panels were 0211 ANTHRAZIT and the seats were re-stitched in a similar fabric. After replacing all the seats, I searched for the 0211 ANTHRAZIT fabric that was available from 85 for the 6 cylinder engine - just what I needed for my current kit! I still found it and bought it, thanks to a friend.


But in fact, the color was not black, but brown... alas...


At that time, I could not find a black "crow's foot", so I decided to simply sew the seats in black, with transverse seams, like on convertibles. It also turned out very well. But the idea of making the entire interior in black "houndstooth" doesn't leave me... :) Yes, such a fabric is now on sale... I already have a back rest and four headrests in the original 0211 ANTHRAZIT fabric. Someday, maybe, I will have the whole salon "crow's foot" 0211 ANTHRAZIT. Or blue "crow's foot" 0212 PACIFIC - door trims are also already available ;)

The photo shows M TECHNIC decorative overlays (52 20 1 927 590) on the back.

For the E30 rear seats, they were only available for convertibles and the M3. But I also installed them - the interior looks much better with them! ;) We pierce the skin with them, and bend their spokes inside. One nuance - although I ordered them new, the color of the stickers on the driver's seat quickly began to fade... Therefore, I "laminated" them with a transparent adhesive film.

Armrest




Detail #1 - fabric armrest
I also wrote about the armrest above - it can only be in a set with a special back on a spring frame. The upholstery, of course, matches the upholstery of the seats. It has a special bracket for fixation on the back frame.


Assembly / disassembly is very simple and fast. We insert the bracket into the slots in the frame and snap it onto the brackets of the frame.


The cover for transporting skis is closed with a lining that is fixed on top with a "velcro" fastener. To use the cover, the armrest is just as easily and quickly removed.


The armrest is installed.


Composite


Rear headrests




Detail #1 - fabric headrest
I repeat - the rear headrests can be installed on any backrest. Rear and front headrests are the same (except front RECARO).
Part No. 2 (No. 3...No. 8) - a set of additional elements of the rear headrest (52 20 9 058 393).




This kit is installed on the back.


It is assembled and screwed to the back with two bolts.


We make holes in the paneling and insert plastic inserts for guiding headrests.


The headrests are simply inserted into the holes. Can be adjusted in height and inclination.


Rear Seat Parts




Detail #1 - a pillow
Detail #2 - back
Part #3 - ANTHRAZIT seat belt lock attachment (52 20 1 941 332). Black plastic fastener for the seat belt buckle.
Part No. 4 - ANTHRAZIT seat belt lock attachment (52 20 1 941 338). Black plastic fastener for the seat belt buckle.

Until 85, the middle seat belt was installed on the left, and its lock was on the right. After 1985, their location was changed, on the contrary - the middle seat belt was installed on the right, and its lock on the left. Accordingly, the fasteners for locks in the backrests before 85 and after 85 are also "mirror". In order to match my pre-85 belts with the post-85 back and shelf, I had to swap the middle belt body mount and its buckle. And everything fell into place! ;)


So, the rear seat in the top configuration is installed.
Interior view with curtains (due to curtains and poor lighting, photo quality is poor).




Now, in a completely black salon, it became dark and scary! )))


Later, outside, in sunny weather, there will be better photos! :)

Next, I will install the torpedo, and then the front seats. This is all that is left of the cabin.

[The_Glory]

Collection_116. ETK_03_Upgrades, accessories. Sunscreen curtain of the rear door window

I return to the interior assembly.
The rear doors are fully assembled, so you can install sun blinds on them.
This is probably the rarest original E30 option available.
Retrofitting, accessories

So,
Rear Door Window Sun Shade




Part No. 1 - a kit for retrofitting the rear door window sunshade (51 16 1 942 230). All four curtains come under the same number, so it is not possible to order them separately. Although, the whole set is also not available for order for a long time.


Part #2 - hook (51 16 1 942 910) - 4 pcs. To fix the curtain of the opening window.
Part No. 3 - Velcro (51 16 1 942 912) - 2 pcs. For fixing the curtain of the blind part of the window.
Detail #4 - door lock button. The number in ETK is not indicated for some reason. It has a higher height compared to a standard button.
The ETK also does not specify rubber pads on the joints of the curtains.


Almost 10 years ago, I was lucky enough to find and buy this kit new.


The kit included glue for the rubber pads, but it already dried :) There was also the original EBA installation instructions.


The design and installation of curtains is very simple, even a little "artisan" :) They are simply clamped tightly under the glass seals, and glued with double-sided tape. Not a very reliable design, so you need to use them very carefully! Despite this, one of my blinds still broke. In the summer, in the sun, the scotch tape that holds the velcro of the curtains will peel off, and it will twist under the action of the spring. Once, her axle came off the spring. I had to repair it and use it even more carefully! :)


Ten years ago, I described the process of installing these curtains in great detail, but I will briefly repeat it again.
First, we insert the hook on the front end of the curtain under the glass seal.


Then we lower the curtain down and put its "tab" under the seal of the window frame.


We push the "tab" on the back end of the curtain under the blind glass seal.


We press the curtain to the door panel so that the tape sticks to the front part. We twist the elongated button of the door lock.




We fasten the hooks above the curtain loops, under the glass seal.


The horizontal blind is installed.




We insert the axis of the vertical curtain into the seat on the horizontal curtain.


The upper part is clamped under the seal with two hooks on both sides of the window frame.






The vertical blind is installed.


We stick rubber pads on the joint and on the upper end. Instead of glue, I used double-sided tape. In case you need to remove them. In the lower corner of the blind glass, we stick a velcro on double-sided tape.


Curtains are installed.










Interior photos will come a little later when the rear seat is installed, but for now here are my old photos.






P.S.
Just for information.
Only one horizontal curtain was installed on the touring door. Photo from the Internet:


I have already written about the rear shelf with a sun shade. But there was another overhead curtain for a sedan - on the rear window. It was attached by a similar method to the grids of the standard rear shelf.
Sunshield


Part No. 1 - a kit for retrofitting the sun blind (82 12 9 406 983). No longer available to order.
Part #2 - not used.
Part #3 - hook (82 12 9 413 176). Metal hook for attaching the overhead rear sun shade to the shelf bars. Photo from the Internet:




Part #4 - hook (82 12 9 413 178). Screws on the curtain.
Part No. 5 - hook (82 12 9 413 177). Screwed to the body.


Item No. 6 is not used.

I finished with the curtains, now I'm putting the back seat.

[The_Glory]

there is a lot of information in this thread that has been very helpful!.

looking forward to see more updates :)

Thank you. If I have time to finish, there will be updates today ;)

[Mazi!]

there is a lot of information in this thread that has been very helpful!.

looking forward to see more updates :)

[The_Glory]

Assembly_115. ETK_54_Hatch with sub.-ext. lid and glass top. Fairing

So, back to the hatch to finish it off.
A wind shield or fairing was provided for the hatch. Until September 1985, in the form of a Plexiglas shield, and after September 1985 - in the form of a mechanical shield that opened together with the hatch mechanism.
Fairing


The plexiglass fairing was available as a separate retrofit kit in the appropriate ETK section:
Wind deflector retrofit kit


In addition to the original shield, an aftermarket shield from the manufacturer Clim Air was also available. At first, I had it installed. Then I bought a genuine BMW fender. Now I have two of them.



Part No. 1 is a hatch repair kit with a manual drive (54 12 9 056 596) and with an electric drive (54 12 9 056 597). No longer available to order.
Part No. 2 (No. 1) is a wind deflector retrofit kit (82 11 9 401 098). No longer available to order. Although, individual mounting details are still available.
Part No. 3 - sealing gasket (72 60 1 857 053)
Part No. 4 - screw (72 60 1 852 660) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 5 - bracket (72 60 1 852 659) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 6 - plastic nut (72 60 1 852 661) - 2 pcs.


Detail No. 7 (No. 8...No. 13) is a mechanical shield that opens together with the hatch mechanism. It was installed instead of the front pressure bar, together with the hatch mechanism. For this, special metal brackets are provided on the body in the niche of the hatch. Machines manufactured before September 1985 do not have these brackets, therefore, without welding, such a shield cannot be installed.
Accordingly, I have a plexiglass shield installed - it has an even more "old school" look! ;)
First, it was necessary to bring the shields into proper shape - to polish them.
Started with the original BMW shield.




Polished by hand, with sandpaper 1000, 1500, 2500 with water, then polished twice.


Result:




The eclipse is not very strong, although it is noticeable at the edge that it has "burnt out" in the sun over the years.


The same with the Clim Air shield.




Result:




On this shield, the eclipse is stronger, or it has "burned out" less in the sun over the years.


Shields are slightly different in size and shape. The original BMW is slightly wider and has front corners with a smaller radius of rounding. The attachment is the same and fits both shields.
I previously had a Clim Air shield installed.




Now I decided to install the original BMW shield.
In the front corners of the hatch niche, there are special gaps for installing shield brackets in them. They are simply inserted tightly with their hooks.




We install a shield with a seal on the roof, align it and fasten it to the brackets with screws and plastic nuts. All.


View from the salon:


Appearance:










This completes the installation of the hatch.

But in ETK, there is one more hatch division left:
Manual control hatch cover


Although, according to the VIN code, my car had a sunroof with a manual drive, but I got it with an electric sunroof. Therefore, I will not write anything about the manual hatch, because I have never used it, and I don't really know anything about it... I only know that almost everyone has a broken handle :)

Now I will finish assembling the interior. Next time I will write about a very rare item! ;)

[The_Glory]

I have only looked casually at window install/removal, but that tape method is new for me! The logic behind it makes sense to me.

Car is looking great.

So this is not a new, but a factory method. But at the factory, such a tape with a film was glued to the lower part of the glass. At least that was the tape on my car. Also, a similar tape was under the factory original glass on several cars of teammates.

Thank you.

[Northern]

I have only looked casually at window install/removal, but that tape method is new for me! The logic behind it makes sense to me.

Car is looking great.

[The_Glory]

Collection_114. ETK_51_Body equipment. Glazing (part 2)

I wrote about installing the door glass a long time ago, and now it's time to install the front and rear.
Glazing


Three types of glass were available for the E30:
- ordinary transparent
- heat-insulating green Gruen (marking G)
- heat-insulating brown Gold Bronze (marking B)
In addition, the windshield (#1) could still have a green sun protection strip in the upper part. The rear window (No. 5) is always heated.
My windshield was no longer original, worn and cracked. The back was brown tinted with film. So I decided to replace them both. So I now have a complete set of green glass.
Part No. 1 is a windshield with a green sun protection strip (51 31 1 884 397). I bought this new Pilkington glass (AB26233A).


Although some other codes are indicated on the label, it still fit.


Green glass with a green sun band. Removed the stickers, washed.


Part No. 5 - rear glass green (51 31 1 884 404). I was lucky - I bought an original green rear window from a friend, in good condition, without tinting and with a working heater.


Although, the heating does not work at all - the lower three threads are broken. At first, I wanted to try to repair them with special glue, but after the feedback of a teammate, I changed my mind. His place of repair began to heat up and glow red, like the spiral of an electric heater, and the glass broke! This prospect did not suit me, so I did not risk it, and left it as it is. Especially since these three lower threads are still covered by the rear head restraints and the third stop sign. The main thing is that the terminals are intact, I cleaned them.




I am installing glass for the first time, so I first wondered how to do it correctly. Many advised to put the glass together with the seal and "lock" in the assembly - the "folk" method, with a string, pulling it into the cabin. But they say that the seal often loses its shape and begins to leak water. Well, this is not our method! :)
I decided to install as the book says - first the seal, then the glass, then the "lock". Seals are already installed. We install glass in them. You need to do this with an assistant - one pushes the sealant out of the cabin with a plastic spatula, the other aligns it on the glass. And so along the perimeter from bottom to top, in both directions.
The forehead is in place. Although, it was tight... I already thought that it wouldn't fit! :)


The back was already put with silicone - it went in much easier.


And now, the most "interesting" thing is the installation of "locks". I made something very remotely similar to the original tool for installing glass "locks" from a 3mm welding electrode. :)


But, either the "locks" are very old and hard, or the tool turned out to be not very correct, but nothing happened with it! :)
Installed with plastic spatulas for clips and a flat screwdriver. There is a two-part "lock" on the back glass. The lower castle is straight - he started with it, as with the simplest one.
Now, from my own experience, I will say - first you need to insert the "lock" into the seal from the side of the glass, and then use a spatula to insert it from the side of the body. On the corners, on the contrary, and with silicone. First the lower "lock", then the corner pads, then the upper "lock". In principle, everything is simple, but it took me several hours...
Finally, the rear window is installed!


Corner pads must be installed very carefully so as not to bend them.


The upper corners are a little more difficult than the straight sections, but with silicone they have become fine.


Original glass SPLINTEX Green, E6 - Belgium. By the way, the country code on the rear window happened to coincide with the code on the door glass - a bit of luck too! ;)


On the windshield, for some reason, the gap in the seal was a little smaller than on the back, especially in the upper corners. It was a little harder here, but slowly, with silicone, everything also went in! It started from the bottom of the center to the left and in a circle. It also took two hours...
The windshield is installed!


The "lock" was a little short, so there was a hole that was not covered by the overlay. I have already ordered another such overlay - I will install it when it arrives. I think that it is not critical.


The upper corners, although tight, have become even better than before! :)


Pilkington Green, E1 - Germany. Here, the country code did not match a bit... well, that's it. ;)


Finally, the interior is completely closed and will not get dusty, which is a lot in my garage, due to the lack of a normal floor... I can also put seats.
There is already something like a car behind! :)


Then again about the hatch.

UPD:

[The_Glory]

Collection_113. ETK_51_Body equipment. Glazing, additional elements

Finally, everything is ready to install the front and rear glass! First, we install rubber seals.
Glazing, additional elements


Front


Posterior


Part No. 1 - windshield seal (51 31 1 913 887). For before restyling machines. I don't know what the differences are after restyling. I heard that there are gaskets with drainage holes in the lower corners. I don't have them. Perhaps this is the difference...
Part #2 - SCHWARZ decorative strip (51 31 1 968 445). Black "lock" of the seal, for the "shadow line" option. The basic configuration included chrome (51 31 1 884 402)
Part #3 - SCHWARZ cuff (51 31 1 906 604). Black overlay on the "lock" joint of the seal, for the "shadow line" option. In the basic configuration there was chrome CHROM (51 31 1 884 401)
Part No. 4 - rear window seal (51 31 1 913 888). For before restyling machines. I don't know what the differences are after restyling.
Detail No. 5 - upper decorative bar SCHWARZ (51 31 1 940 235). Black "lock" of the seal, for the "shadow line" option. The basic configuration included chrome (51 31 1 884 409)
Detail No. 6 - SCHWARZ lower decorative strip (51 31 1 940 275). Black "lock" of the seal, for the "shadow line" option. In the basic configuration there was chrome CHROM (51 31 1 884 410)
Part #7 - SCHWARZ cuff (51 31 1 940 279) - 2 pcs. Black corner cover on the "lock" joint of the seal, for the "shadow line" option. In the basic configuration there was chrome CHROM (51 31 1 884 408)

The seals are intact, in good condition, so I thoroughly washed them of dirt, cleaned of old sealant and treated with silicone. From the factory, they were installed on the lower face and upper corners on a non-hardening sealant covered with a thin film - so that the sealant does not stick to the sealant. This sealant and film are not listed in the ETK, so I replaced them with materials at hand - similar butyl rubber tape from the hardware store, and regular disposable thin bags! :)


Butylrubber tape 1x15 mm thick


Given that the seals and their "locks" are no longer new, I decided to "play it safe" - I glued the tape not only on the bottom and in the upper corners, but around the entire perimeter of the window. The tape turned out to be thinner than the factory tape, so I taped it in two layers. The first layer is along the rib and wrapped it on both sides of the rib. The second layer is on the outer surface of the rib. The non-hardening sealant of the tape is very sticky to the hands, so it is better to glue it with wet hands.


Then we cut the bag into narrow strips and glue them on top of the butyl rubber tape.


I took disposable bags, the thinnest that were in the store. One and a half bags were enough for both glasses :) A very thin film does not allow the sealant to stick, and at the same time does not interfere with the deformation of the sealant for good sealing. At the same time, the glass seal is easily removed, if necessary.

We put and align the seal.


done


The "lock", of course, will be installed after the glass is installed.

Similarly in front.
But there is one nuance - it is important not to seal the drainage holes in the lower corners of the windshield. It is in these places, due to the lack of drainage, that the body often rusts a lot.








Now I can install the glass.

[The_Glory]

UPD:
A small addition about sun visors.
I talked to the owners of convertibles - and it seems that this visor is from a convertible - there was a transparent pocket in which was enclosed an instruction with a scheme for using the soft roof on a convertible. Photo from the Internet:


There was no such pocket on sedans. But, if it was already there, then I will try to restore it somehow. There will be a part of the cabriolet in the sedan! :)

[The_Glory]

Assembly_112. ETK_51_Body equipment. Sun Visor

To finish everything with the ceiling, I will write about sun visors. For some reason, ETK has two identical sections about them.
Sun visor
Sun visor




Detail #1 - left and right sun visor. There are many different numbers in ETK, but as far as I know, the main differences were in color:
QUARZ - light beige, standard and Edition
ANTHRAZIT - black, for M-Technic equipment and for the front ceiling panel.
Also, the visors differ in shape for cars with and without an on-board diagnostic system. The latter have a protrusion that additionally closes the space above the interior mirror. There is a mirror on the inside of the right passenger visor.
In my case - black visors for the ceiling panel with an on-board diagnostic system. I'm not sure, but judging by the sticker mark on the driver's visor, it's possible they're from a convertible. There was a sticker with instructions for using the folding roof. On the sedans, there was just a clean visor, if I'm not mistaken.

Part #2 - ANTHRAZIT bracket (51 16 1 927 473) - 2 pcs. Black plastic bracket. Or beige (51 16 1 965 779). On later models it was black with plugs for self-tapping screws (51 16 8 243 576).
Part No. 3 - self-tapping screw ST4.8X19 (07 11 9 902 483) - 8 pcs.

We screw the brackets on the sides of the interior mirror, and the visors on the edges of the front ceiling panel.




Earlier, I already wrote about the home-made third salon ceiling - it perfectly replaces the electric sunroof drive plug. And it is more useful than a plug.


Although, now I also have lamps for reading maps in the mirror. Now there is enough light in the front part of the cabin as well.


By the way, you can see the mark from the sticker on the driver's visor. Is it from a convertible, or is there supposed to be some kind of pocket or something?

If you noticed, you can already see the glass in the photo - more about it later.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_110. ETK_54_Hatch with sub.-ext. lid and glass top. Details of the hatch with a lifting and sliding cover (part 3)

I have heard more than once that if the hatch cover is not installed correctly, it can be scratched when closing... Anyway, I prepared myself just in case! :)




It was possible not to paste over the contour - there is still a rubber seal there. Then he removed that tape.
Manually on both sides, we install the mechanism in the "ventilation" position, level the drainage bar.


We put the lining of the hatch cover.


We fasten its rods to the drainage bar on both sides - just snap it.




The slider roller will have to go into the groove on the skin.


But it will have to be done later. For now, we push the cladding into the roof niche so that it does not interfere.


The hatch cover is screwed to the curtain with three bolts on each side.


We put the cover and fasten it without tightening the bolts.




Manually lower it to the "closed" position. According to the instructions, the hatch cover should be placed so that it is 1 mm below the roof level at the front, and 1 mm above the roof level at the back. The right side was exposed without any problems. But on the left, where the lid was boiled - a fiasco! Either the insert between the fasteners was welded higher than necessary, or the cover "came" from welding... But it became an arc... This can be seen in the photo:


No matter how hard I tried, I couldn't set it up properly... So, I put it as it turned out... In the "closed" position.

The gearbox has three positions on the limit switch:
"open" - a long stroke of the gear clockwise
"ventilation" - a short turn of the gear counterclockwise
"closed" is the middle position.
Use the button to set it to the middle position - "closed". Such a scheme :)


In this position, we screw the gearbox, and the first test gave the following result:


The "ventilation" is normal, but when opening and closing the lid clings to the roof with its "hump". It's good that I sealed the lid with masking tape! There are no scratches. Lowered the cover on the left as far as possible - after that it stopped sticking to the roof. But now both left corners are much below the level of the roof... That's such bullshit... :( I don't know what to do... I'll probably look for another whole cover... but that's a problem... Well, that's it... Let's continue!
We pull out the paneling from the niche, put its rear grooves on the rollers of the slider.




Now we fasten the clips on the front face of the skin.




We close the hatch.




"Airing".


We open the hatch.


The reducer is in place, it can be covered with the front panel, which I wrote about in the section on the ceiling lining.
On the sides, it is fixed with self-tapping screws through the niche of the hatch into special brackets.




The edge of the panel cladding is pressed with the front pressure bar, on a non-hardening sealant.


We screw the bar.




WEBASTO is the brand name of the hatch manufacturer.


On the sides of the edges of the paneling, the panels are wound under the door seal. Near the windshield, the panel is screwed together with the sun visors. I will write about them later.


Finally, the sunroof and headliner are installed!

[The_Glory]

Assembly_110. ETK_54_Hatch with sub.-ext. lid and glass top. Details of the hatch with a lifting and sliding cover (part 2)

So, after installing the ceiling paneling, the hatch niche looks like this - the cable tubes are removed, the edges of the paneling are glued, but they still need to be pressed by the hatch parts.


Black non-hardening sealant and special original grease for hatches RHF 1 (83 19 2 157 321) are used to install the hatch mechanism. I used almost a third of the sealant, although probably too much - it could have been less. Two 20 g bags of grease were enough - there was still quite a lot of grease.


While cleaning and painting parts, one cracker (54 12 1 843 424) on the slider broke - replaced both of them. They are simply taken off tightly and put on the same way.


On hatches after 85, these crackers have a different design - on two axes at once, instead of a round roller.

Before starting the installation, we lubricate the grooves of the rails, which will then be inaccessible under the roof. We apply a non-hardening sealant to the body and to the plates and rails.






We first install the plate, pressing it to the ceiling lining. And we install a rail on it. The rear end of the rail must be fixed inside the roof niche. At the same time, the front end is placed under the tube for the cable. We fix them in the back part with a self-tapping screw.


We unscrew the gearbox, and lubricate the place where it lands on the cables.


Lubricate the cable and grooves on the rail, insert the cable into the tube.


We insert the cable into the tube and insert the crackers on the link and on the slider into the groove of the rail. Cover the place where the cable tube exits with sealant.


So that the sealant does not get on the cable through the holes in the upper plate, we glue them with adhesive tape.


Cover the cable with a plate and fasten it with four self-tapping screws.

We fasten the plate for the position of the "ventilation" hatch with two screws.


We check by moving the slider manually.


And then I remember that I did not install the drainage bar!! )) Fiasco! Sorting out...


First, we insert the drainage bar into the groove - just like in the photo! Through it, water from the rear face of the hatch is diverted in both directions, to the drain.


And then we already insert the cable, slider and pulley into the grooves, close it with the top plate, as written above. We push the plank deeper into the niche so that it does not interfere.


Similarly, we collect on the other side.


We install the back pressure bar on the sealant.


We set the sliders on both sides to the same level. Lubricate the cables for landing the gearbox gear.


The hatch mechanism is installed, it remains to adjust it and install the hatch cover.