E30 from Ukraine - "Shadow of Intelligence"

[The_Glory]

Assembly_186. ETK_61_Wiper lever / wiper blade

I was going to order wiper blades for a long time, but I kept forgetting about them. And finally, when I was ordering a belt for the power steering pump, I somehow accidentally remembered about the brushes! :) I ordered it. So, the pump works fine, the system was shaking, everything is OK. Therefore, I return to the ETK section
General electrical equipment of the car

Its last subsection
Wiper arm / blade wiper





Original wipers can be from two manufacturers - SWF or BOSCH.

Part No. 1 - left wiper arm (61 61 1 372 551) and right (61 61 1 372 552) - 2 pcs. In my case, these are BOSCH arms - left 66577 and right 66578. The left arm has a greater bend in two planes, and a shorter length than the right one.





SWF levers differ from BOSCH in a shorter spring and the absence of a rivet on the body.

In the photo, black - SWF, gray - BOSCH. By the way, I do not advise clicking with a spring on the removed lever - I broke the lever mounting bracket like that. Then I accidentally bought a SWF lever, and realized that they are different :) I had to look for a BOSCH lever.
Part No. 2 - left wiper blade (61 62 7 140 965) and right (61 61 8 353 297), or a set of brushes (61 61 9 069 196) - 2 pcs. In the original, SWF brushes are most often used. I ordered them by the number of the analogue SWF 116112, - so much cheaper.


The brushes have a replacement schedule indicator - a black circle near the brush mount. When the circle turns yellow - the brushes need to be replaced.

The brushes need to be installed with this circle facing up so that it is visible.

Part #3 - rubber element of the wiper blade (61 61 1 372 747) - 2 pcs. You can replace only the rubber insert itself, but I'm not sure if this makes sense.
Part #4 - protective cap SWF (61 61 1 372 746), or BOSCH (61 61 1 376 313) - 2 pcs. In my case SWF.


Install and snap the blades onto the lever.


We put the levers on the axis of the wiper mechanism, align them and tighten them with a nut.


We insert a protective cap under the lever and close the nut with it.


The wiper blades are installed.




Close the hood - done.






So, on the outside, all I had to do was paint and install the front and rear bumpers. Technically, - restore and install brake calipers. I'm working on it.
The finish line is coming soon! :)

P.S.
I still need to fix at least one set of wheel disks. I've already started a little, I'll write about it next time.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_185. ETK_32_Power steering pump. (continued)

I will remind you that last time the installation of the power steering pump was stopped for this reason - a gap of 1 mm between the pulley and the radiator drain plug.


Installing thin washers and flat-head bolts did not solve the problem - the gain on the bolts was only 2 mm, but the pump axis remained in the same place. There is no place to move the radiator either - it is already close to the body. So, the only option left was to move the pump. It was not possible to move it up, because it rested against the generator. Therefore, you only need to move it down. And then new problems appeared - a short tension bar, a belt and a hose from the tank.
For the tension bar, I made an "extension" and screwed it with a bolt.




I wanted to screw it with two bolts, but the second bolt interfered with tensioning, so I left one. Thanks to the sides on the bar, the plate is fixed well with one bolt.
I ordered a hose for the tank for the third time :)
I measured the length of the belt with a rope and calculated it using some formulas :) I calculated 838mm. The standard is 825mm. The difference of 13mm immediately seemed too small to me... but mathematics is an exact science! I ordered it.




The belt arrived, I tried it on - it's short! ))) The pump remained practically in the same place.
The second time I took measurements more accurately - with a rubber cord, with a similar cross-section to the belt. I fixed the pump in the desired position. It turned out 880mm. This is already something similar to reality. I found an 875mm belt. This time I decided to "save money" and buy the cheapest belt that was available at the local auto parts store - just for trying on. Suddenly it won't fit again... And it did! :)


Well, now I'm ordering a good belt - Continental AVX10x875. This is a generator belt for M10 and S14 engines. Now there will be at least one part under the hood that matches the VIN code of the car! :)
Belts in stock! :)


By the way, the cheap 10x875 belt, judging by the inscription on the package, is for the engine of the AZLK "Moskvich" car! It's probably no coincidence that that engine looks so similar to the BMW M10 engine! ;)


So, I install a new belt, tighten it and fix it on the bar with an extension.


I screw the longer hose from the tank, and the high-pressure hose to the steering rack. The pump is installed.


Now the gap between the pulley and the radiator drain plug is a little more than 1 cm. I think this is quite enough.




But now the pump is very low - level with the engine oil pan.




Maybe it's not very good, but it's not critical - the main thing is not lower!
I tried on a protective plastic shield - it gets right up to the pump, but covers it.


The restyled air conditioning panel has special ventilation holes - they are located almost under the pump.




The pump is closed.


I will install an early plastic panel that does not have ventilation holes. I was going to cut them in the same place, but it's a good thing I didn't have time to cut them. Now I'll move them a few centimeters so they're exactly under the pulley so it doesn't rub against the shield.
But I'll install the shield later, after I install the air conditioning compressor. I think everything will be fine.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_185. ETK_32_Power steering pump

So, let's move on to the last section of the ETK on steering:
Power steering pump


Finally, I bought a new power steering pump. I'm not sure if this pump is really new, most likely it was refurbished at the factory. I chose the manufacturer Meyle, although in fact, in appearance this pump is no different from similar cheaper options.






But it looks pretty good. I hope it works well. )




120bar declared. The original pump was 110bar. Let's see how it pumps...


Now I decided to change the tank too. I put it new once, but that was a long time ago. The tank has a built-in filter, so it's better to replace it. I chose the Febi tank.




The lid shows the ETK number (83 29 0 429 576) - Hydraulic fluid CHF 11 S. That is, the tank for Pentosin lubricant.


The lid is ordinary.


The filter looks similar to the one in the old ZF tank for ATF lubricant.


I bought a new hose for the tank again because I lost it somewhere, I don't know where it went.


Since I use ATF, I installed the old cap on the new tank so that there would be no confusion with the lubricants )


The tanks look the same.


I already wrote about installing the tank and hoses, so I just replaced the old hose and tank with a new one.




New tank with old cap for ATF


Back to the pump. The kit included a mounting bracket, most likely for the E36. I also wrote about the mounting brackets earlier, they are already installed on the engine. But two brackets need to be installed on the pump.


Unscrew the fasteners that were included in the kit and install one bracket in the following position:


On the other hand, screw the second bracket:


The pump is ready for installation.


Power steering pump installation kit:


Part #1 - power steering pump 110BAR (32 41 1 133 969). I use a Meyle pump (314 631 0001) 120BAR


Part #2 - pulley (32 42 1 730 371) - 1 pc.
Part #3 - bolt M8X12 (07 11 9 913 616) - 3 pcs.
Part No. 4 - spacer washer A8.4 (07 11 9 900 052) - 3 pcs.

Part #5 - V-belt 9.5X825 (32 42 1 706 5970 - 1 pc. I use a Continental AVX10x825 belt

Part #6 - repair kit for ZF pump (32 41 1 135 880), or VICKERS pump (32 41 1 133 023). My original ZF pump was very worn out and could not be repaired. Therefore, it was replaced with a new one.

We fasten the pulley to the pump with three bolts.


I also wrote about the hoses earlier. It remains to screw two fittings to the pump. The thread diameter in them is different, so the inlet and outlet hoses are physically impossible to mix up.


We fasten the pump with two bolts to the brackets on the engine. We put on the belt.


An additional double pulley for the power steering pump and air conditioning compressor is already installed on the motor pulley. The front pulley is used for the power steering pump.

We tighten the belt using a special bolt and gear and fix it with a nut. Then we tighten the other bolts of the pump and the tensioning bar.


We screw the supply hose fitting from the tank, and the high-pressure hose fitting to the steering rack.


The power steering pump is installed. You can fill in ATF and bleed the system.


BUT there is one nuance!
Here is such a gap between the bolts of the pump pulley and the radiator drain plug...


A large radiator with a built-in expansion tank from the M40/M42 turned out to be great. But, only now it turned out that its drain plug was right opposite the pulley! It's scary to leave it like that - so that the pulley does not break the plug when the engine vibrates. And what to do now - I don't know ... I have one idea, but if it works out, I'll write about it next time.
On this "optimistic" note, the installation of the power steering pump is stopped! :)

[The_Glory]

New Year's gifts

I didn't do anything to the car during the holidays, so I'll write about "gifts" for myself and my "thirty"! :)

By the way, before the New Year I met such a cool "New Year's" E30 - with a Christmas tree on the roof and garlands! ))


In the evening of December 31, I arrived home, and in front of the gate is a set of wheels with MIM 1900 rims!




I received such an unexpected New Year's gift from a neighbor who was raking through old junk in his garage! :) Once these wheels were on an Alfa Romeo, regardless of the fact that there is a PCD of 4x98 ) And for the last 15 years they have been lying in the garage. MIM 1900 wheels with parameters specifically for the E30 - 7J15 ET13 PCD 4x100. Although, I don't really need them, because I already have three sets of wheels, but I decided to take them anyway - let them be! Especially since the price was symbolic, really - a gift! ;)


Of course, there are scratches on the rim, but the overall condition of the rims is good. I tried them on - they look good! )


But the 205/55 tires are too wide! )


My OZ rims with similar parameters and 195/60 tires in width are getting better.




So, for the holidays I covered the car with an awning so that it would get less dust.


And off I went to celebrate! :))


And after the New Year, two more "gifts" arrived - two boxes for cassettes with vertical boxes.


Surprisingly, both are completely intact and in working order!




I've mentioned them before, and I'll write more about them later.

P.S.
There's also news about the assembly, but there are no major problems with the power steering pump. I'll write about that next time.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_184_Additional BSC options - OVERHEAT

I have long written about the fact that I installed a top-of-the-line on-board control system unit for the Japanese market, with four additional options, and added wires for them to the interior wiring harness. I will not repeat myself about this.


Now it is time to fully complete their functionality.
Now we will talk about an additional option that was available only for the Japanese market - OVERHEAT. This lamp signals overheating of the catalyst. For this, it has a temperature sensor and a special relay. I have not had the catalyst for a long time, respectively, and there is no point in looking for that sensor and relay.
Therefore, I decided to use this lamp differently - connect it to the temperature sensor, which at a temperature of 99 degrees turns on the air conditioner fan at second speed. That is, the lamp will warn in advance about possible engine overheating. I also wrote earlier that I added an additional button to the fan wiring diagram for manually turning on the second speed. I connected the button to the corresponding contacts in the fuse block. And the wire from the lamp, without thinking at the time, was laid all the way to the sensor on the radiator. Now I realized that it was useless - it would be logical to connect it to the same contacts as the button. But there is a nuance. The relay (K6) of the second fan speed is activated by the "plus" of the power supply, and the additional lamps of the on-board control system are activated by the "ground". So, I had to install an additional relay that converts the "plus" to the "ground". I drew the connection diagram of the button and the relay on the diagram of the ETM electric fan.


Connect pin 86 to the button connector that goes to pin 86 of relay K6. Connect pins 30 and 85 to ground at point G104 behind the left headlight. Connect pin 87 to the OVERHEAT lamp wire.


Install the yellow relay in the standard relay location on the fuse block.


This is a regular relay, the same as all the orange relays in the fuse block. I just had yellow. They are also orange or brown. Yellow is the prettiest! :)


Now, when you manually turn on the second speed of the air conditioner fan in the cabin, the green button and the OVERHEAT lamp of the on-board control system light up.




If the coolant temperature reaches 99 degrees, the OVERHEAT lamp will turn on the temperature sensor together with the fan. In this case, the button will not light up.
Everything seems to be logical, useful and convenient!
In my opinion, this functionality of this lamp is even more useful than the standard Japanese one! ;)

P.S.
If anyone noticed, there is another additional purple relay installed in the fuse block - K9. I have also already mentioned it in the relevant section about relays, but I will repeat it again. This is a relay that, when the high beam is turned on, automatically turns off the rear fog lights, if they were on. This option was available for the French and Swiss markets. Probably because there is often fog there. On other cars, instead of a relay, there is a metal jumper. I don't understand why this relay was not installed as standard on all cars. After all, it is logical - a normal driver will not turn on the high beam in the fog. And if it turns on, then it is logical that there is no more fog, so the rear fog lights can be automatically turned off (if the driver forgot to do it himself) so as not to blind the bright red light of drivers driving behind. I am even more surprised by the complete absence of rear fog lights for the US market, especially given that there were stricter safety requirements than in Europe. Strange.
So, I consider this a useful option that is very easy to install. Just remove the metal jumper and put a purple 5-pin relay in its place. The same relay is used as the comfort relay for power windows.

Sometime later I will write about another additional lamp of the on-board control system - the driver's seat belt. And so far it is not working for me yet.

[The_Glory]

Congrats on the first start! It's been an impressive journey

Thank you!
It doesn't seem like there's much left, but with this war, the further it goes, the harder it gets... I'd like to finish it by spring so the car can finally drive, but I'm not so sure about that anymore...

[Northern]

Congrats on the first start! It's been an impressive journey

[The_Glory]

Outstanding! Congratulations - nothing like the feeling of that first start.

Thank you! I completely agree!

[The_Glory]

That is looking so good!!

you are genius!

Thanks)

[mjweimer]

Outstanding! Congratulations - nothing like the feeling of that first start.

[Mazi!]

That is looking so good!!

you are genius!

[The_Glory]

Congratulations!!!

That "ha!" you said when the car started is heartwarming and familiar to any car person.

Thank you! I am really happy! )

[roguetoaster]

Congratulations!!!

That "ha!" you said when the car started is heartwarming and familiar to any car person.

[The_Glory]

Gentlemen, start your engines!

The day has come! :) Finally, a test run of the engine!
For the sake of such a long-awaited event, I even washed the car from dust! )


On the outside, all that remains is to paint and install the front and rear bumpers, and return the moldings to the doors.








The oil has been changed, antifreeze has been added.


First test of the engine wiring, so far without gasoline )

https://youtube.com/shorts/pBc7gBI_a4Q

The starter turns - that's good! ) I fill it with gasoline and try again - let's get it started! ;)

https://youtube.com/shorts/8WhF_SM4ej8

That's it!... As it turned out - there is no power to the fuel pump, injectors, or spark plugs... I'm starting to look for where it went... Directly, with a jumper instead of a relay, the pump works, and pumps normally. The idle speed regulator valve also starts to buzz if you put a jumper. I thought that the main relay was not working. I'm trying to start with a 30-87 jumper. oops, i did it again...

https://youtube.com/shorts/zNkqvhegNZs

And again, as the Muscovites say, - "negative" start!... )
I start looking at the ETM diagrams. Up to and including 86, the main relay was activated via the green (!) wire with power from the ignition switch to the main relay contact 86. I have a red wire with constant power there. I remember that I have a later Motronic 1.3 engine wiring, with a 3-row DME connector. I take an ETM from 89 - there the main relay is activated via the brown wire with "mass" from the DME to the main relay contact 85! And I have a GREEN (!!) wire there! According to ETM, the green wire is the power supply from the ignition switch. I'm a little confused.... how can a relay work from two "pluses"? I looked through ETM again over the years, and only in the diagrams for 87 did I find this GREEN wire! Oddly enough, it turned out that this is the "ground" wire from DME! Apparently, German engineers, after replacing the power supply diagram and activating the main relay, forgot to change the color of this wire! :) And then, realizing their mistake, from 88 they changed the color of this GREEN "ground" wire (!!) to the traditional brown! Although, in my opinion, it would be more correct to replace it with brown with a colored stripe - this is not a permanent "ground", but an activating one.
So, if someone has an 87 engine wiring, then keep this in mind!
While I was dealing with this "quest" with wires, I noticed that the main relay has two contacts 87. Separate power supply for the pump and injectors, and separate power supply for the DME. I put a jumper 30-87-87. it works!

https://youtube.com/shorts/e-mYG6ItmNI

Finally!! It works! I was happy like a child with a new toy! )))
But something needs to be done with that relay. I checked it - on the table from the power supply it works normally. That is, the problem is not in the relay. And then I remember that once upon a time, right after buying the car, I had the same problem. Then the main relay did not work due to a rotten wire. I unwrap the end of the harness, and I see that old twist - on the same GREEN wire! But it's intact. And the wire still doesn't "ring". That is, it has rotted somewhere else again, and the relay does not activate... I don't understand why, maybe some defective wire...


I didn't want to pull out and cut all the plastic corrugations on the engine wiring, so I just added another parallel duplicate GREEN (!) wire in the corrugation, from pin 36 of the DME to pin 85 of the main relay. I installed the white main relay, and I'm trying to start the engine again.


done!

https://youtube.com/shorts/MdusdwjYgfs

Finally, now everything works fine!
By By the way, I noticed that the scheme of operation of the white relay is similar to the scheme of operation of the black relay, which is installed on the dipped beam and fog lights. But according to ETK, they are different for some reason. Out of curiosity, I installed a black relay instead of a white one - everything works.


That is, if absolutely necessary, you can remove the relay from the headlights and install it instead of the main relay.
We close the relay with a plastic cover - everything is ready!


The engine starts, runs fine. But for the car to be able to drive on its own, I still need to buy and install a new power steering pump, and restore and install the brake calipers.

P.S.
By the way, about the relay - if anyone noticed - an additional yellow relay on the fuse box. Maybe next time I'll write about it! ;)

[The_Glory]

Assembly_183. ETK_83_Technical and auxiliary materials

So, the ETK section
Technical and auxiliary materials

There is only one subsection in it
Transmission oil




Part No. 1, No. 2 - not used.
Part No. 3 - manual transmission oil SAE 80 1000ML, TU (81 22 9 401 225).
Part No. 4 - manual transmission oil SAE 80 1000ML, TU (81 22 9 401 220).

As you can see, there is also an option with automatic transmission oil. In the manual transmission section, I already wrote that Dexron II automatic transmission oil can also be used for manual transmissions. Such manual transmissions have an orange sticker with the inscription "ATF Oil". But, this is mainly on later models. My manual transmission never had such a sticker, so although I thought about switching to ATF, I still decided not to experiment and left the usual transmission oil, which I always poured.

A set of technical fluids for E30 M20B25 with manual transmission.




As you can see, the volume of liquids is not small! And there is still no freon for the air conditioner. :)
Although, I bought all the liquids, of course, with a small margin.
Coolant - blue antifreeze HEPU G11, 5l x 3.


Engine oil - Q8 10W40, 4l x 2.
Manual transmission oil - Q8 80W90, 1l x 2.
Power steering oil - Q8 ATF Dexron III, 1l x 2.
Limited gear oil - Castrol LSD 75W140, 1l x 2.


Brake fluid - TEXTAR DOT 4, 1l x 2.
Windscreen washer concentrate - LIQUI MOLY 1:100, 0.25l.
Distilled water for windshield washer, 5l.
Gasoline A-95 EVRO, 20l.


So, I poured oil into the gearbox before installing it. But for some reason I didn't pour it into the manual transmission. Probably out of stupidity! ) Now, it's very inconvenient to do this on a car, especially without a lift. So I had to look for a "special tool".


But even with it, lying under the car, it was very inconvenient. So, I had to look for a hose for it, and an assistant, and thus pour oil into the gearbox.


Then I replaced the oil in the engine, filled it with antifreeze and gasoline. Now everything is absolutely ready for a test run of the engine! ;)

I will fill in the brake fluid and power steering fluid after installing the brake calipers and pump. And the washer fluid, right before leaving the garage ;)

P.S.
I took the volumes of all technical fluids from the factory instructions for the BMW E30 325i. If someone doesn't have it, it might be useful.

Fuel tank (until 87, or for diesel) - 55l
Fuel tank (after 87, except diesel) - 63l
Windscreen washer tank - 3l
Intensive glass cleaning tank (option) - 1l
Rear windshield washer tank (touring) - 2.5l
Cooling system - 10.5l
Cooling system with air conditioning (option) - 11l
Engine oil (with filter) - 4.75l
Engine oil (without filter) - 4.5l
Automatic engine oil refill tank (aftermarket option) - 3l
Manual transmission oil - 1.25l
Automatic transmission oil - 3l
Transfer box oil (325ix) - 0.5l
Front gear oil (325ix) - 0.7l
Rear gear oil (188 type) - 1.7l
Power steering fluid - 1.2l
Brake fluid - 1.2l
Air conditioner freon 850-900g