E30 from Ukraine - "Shadow of Intelligence"

[The_Glory]

Assembly_175_Installing the BBS body kit (part 3) - sill plates

For now, I will continue installing the BBS body kit - sill plates.






A special plastic strip is used to attach the plates.


It is screwed to the body, and the sill trim is inserted into its groove. Additionally, for fixation and sealing, I glued butyl rubber tape to the strip.


As I already said, to attach the body kit, even before painting the car, I installed stainless threaded rivets. I screwed the strip to them with stainless bolts.




First fitting, - it seems normal, you can glue.




We glue the trim to the strip on the sealant. We install the rear small trim on the wheel arch on the sealant. We fix it from the end with self-tapping screws.


The front part of the lining is screwed to the front wing.




It is also fixed with self-tapping screws on the end of the wheel arch.


Only after this can the front lining be installed on the wing. It is inserted into the grooves in the sill lining, and closes its attachment to the wing.








It is important to immediately wash off the sealant residue from the joints before it dries. You will need a lot of rags.
Done.








I replaced the screws with black ones so they weren't so noticeable ) I covered them with butyl rubber on the inside so they wouldn't rust as much.




The upper joint of the pads looks quite neat.


There is a significant expansion in the rear. Miniwidebody :)


The lower mounting of these BBS pads is absolutely identical to the mounting of the original factory M-Technic I pads. It is possible that the original plastic clips (51 71 1 933 125) were used for it, or something very similar. My lower mounting kit did not have one, so I measured the dimensions and made a sketch of the clip.


My friend made a 3D model of it and printed them on a printer. You need 8 pieces in total.
I used 4.2x19 self-tapping screws and washers made of stainless steel.


We install the clamp on the inner metal edge of the threshold, and screw the cover to it.




The screw passes under the metal edge and presses the cover to the threshold.


In the back there are two more such clamps - a total of 4 pieces on each side.
The BBS sill plates are aligned and now fully secured.




All that remains is to install the BBS front apron.

P.S.
And I still don't know what to do with the moldings. At first they interfered with installing the plates, and now the plates interfere with installing the moldings... That's it! )

[The_Glory]

Assembly_174_ETK_13_Valves, pipelines of the intake system

To finally complete the engine assembly, you need to install the fuel injectors.
So, back to the ETK section
Preparation and adjustment of the working mixture

The last unit
Valves, pipelines of the intake system




Part No. 1 - distribution main (13 53 1 717 073) - 1 pc.
Part #2 - bolt M6X12 (07 11 9 913 442) - 4 pcs. Fastening of the distribution main.
Part #3 - BOSCH injector (13 64 1 734 776) - 6 pcs. Fuel injectors BOSCH 280 150 715.
Part No. 4 - ring of round section 7.52X3.53 (13 64 1 730 767) - 13 pcs. I use rubber rings BOSCH 1 280 210 752. 2 pcs. for each nozzle and 1 pc. on the fuel pressure regulator.
Part No. 5 - bracket (13 53 1 274 729) - 6 pcs. For fixing nozzles in the distribution line.

Part #6 - pressure regulator 3.0BAR (13 53 1 711 541) - 1 pc.

Part No. 7 - bolt with washer M6X12 (07 11 9 915 033) - 2 pcs. Fastening of the fuel pressure regulator.
Part #8 - vacuum hose Schwarz 3.5X1.8 (11 72 7 545 323) - 1 pc.
Part #9 - fuel hose 32MM-210MM (13 31 1 288 284) - 1 pc. Instead of shaped hoses, I use solid Gates 8x13mm hoses. I already wrote about them earlier in the sections on the fuel system.
Part No. 10 - connecting element (13 31 1 713 470) - 1 pc. It is used to connect two shaped hoses. In my case, it is not used, as I do not see the point of cutting a whole fuel line in order to connect it later with clamps.
Part No. 11 (No. 14) is a fuel pulsation damper, not used. It was installed only on Jetronic. On Motronic, they began to be installed near the fuel pump - I wrote about them in the corresponding section. Part No. 10 is installed in its place.
Part No. 12 - fuel hose 561MM-920MM (13 31 1 722 565) - 1 pc. Instead of shaped hoses, I use solid Gates 8x13mm hoses. I already wrote about them earlier in the sections on the fuel system.
Part No. 13 (No. 15) is a similar fuel hose, but for some reason it is not listed in the ETK.
Part No. 16 - clamp (07 12 9 952 104) - 4 pcs. If you use regular connecting elements, then you need 10 such clamps. As I already said, I don't see the point in this. Therefore, I only have four of them, and two of them have already been installed before, along with the fuel supply and return hoses.
Part No. 17 - wire holder (61 13 8 380 213) - 1 pc.

Part No. 18 - fuel hose bracket (13 31 1 714 455) - 1 pc. Similar to No. 17, but with a metal bracket for mounting.
Part No. 19 - 2-POL connector housing (12 52 1 706 121) - 6 pcs. Connector of fuel injectors, gray color for 2 foams. I wrote about this in the section on motor wiring.
Part No. 20 - protective cap L=12.5MM (61 13 1 358 330) - 6 pcs. Rubber protective cap for fuel injector connectors. I wrote about this in the section on motor wiring.
Part No. 21 - connecting part (13 31 1 709 577) - 1 pc. It is used to connect two shaped hoses. In my case, it is not used, as I do not see the point of cutting a whole fuel line in order to connect it later with clamps.

So, let's start with the injectors. They were in the box for several years, so they needed to be checked and cleaned before installation.


First outside.




And then on a special stand for washing nozzles. For this, I bought a repair kit for injectors. It includes rubber rings, plastic washers, tips and filters. I bought rubber rings BOSCH 1 280 210 752 earlier, separately.


Repair kit number in the photo.


After replacing the filters, washing, and replacing the repair kit, the injectors are ready for installation.






Fuel injectors BOSCH 280 150 715.




The nozzles are tightly inserted into the distribution line and fixed with a clamp. The bracket fits into the lower groove on the nozzle body. The upper grooves may be used on some other cars.


Before installation, you need to lubricate the rubber rings.


The nozzles are installed on the main line.




Fixation of nozzles with staples.




I read on the Internet that in order to install a distribution line with injectors, you need to remove the intake manifold, valve cover, or file something on them... I was scared to death by such a prospect! ))) But all this is stupid!
To install a line with injectors, it is enough to remove the intake manifold bracket and the crankcase ventilation hose. Then we introduce the main line from the front part under the collector, and carefully push it back. At the same time, the nozzles should be located horizontally towards the left wing. When the pipeline is completely under the collector, we turn it 90 degrees and install the nozzles in the holes of the collector. Also, do not forget to lubricate the rubber rings before watering. Not very convenient, but everything fell into place.


We fasten the main with four bolts to the collector.




We connect the motor wiring to the injectors, according to the length of the wires. By the way, in later versions, the wiring and nozzle connectors are mounted in one plastic strip, and are a separate part of the motor wiring.


I have separate connectors for each injector.


We screw back the intake coektor bracket and the crankcase ventilation hose.


We screw the fuel pressure regulator to the main line, and connect its hose to the collector.




On the other hand, connect the fuel return hose to the regulator.


We fix the hose with a holder (#17) to the air filter housing - I'm not sure if it was done that way from the factory, but I couldn't find another place for it.


With a similar holder, but with a metal bracket (No. 18), we fix the fuel supply hose to the brake master cylinder mount. I installed it earlier, along with the vacuum brake booster.


There, I connected the supply and return hoses together with a special clamp - I wrote about this recently.
We connect the supply hose to the inlet of the distribution main.


As I said - instead of several separate original hoses, I used solid hoses, without additional connections - I think it will be more reliable and safer for the fuel system.


The fuel injectors are installed and connected.


Well, now the engine is completely assembled and ready for a test run.












Almost ready. It is still necessary to change the oil and fill with antifreeze. Well, install the exhaust system.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_173_ETK_11_Engine. Exhaust manifold

At this point there should be a record about "tuning"! )) But he won't be there.
If you remember, I already wrote that I bought a beautiful and shiny new Turbo Works stainless steel exhaust manifold - it's like a Chinese copy of the Supersprint...


And it seemed to fit the engine more or less normally... almost normally... )


But his first fitting on the engine, already installed on the car, showed something completely different!


That's the maximum I could fit it in there! )))




Its pipes rested on the spar, on the oil filter pipes, one on the other, and on the gearbox.


The X-pipe, which was in the kit, could not be installed at the same time.




Although, if it fit, it would look beautiful! ;)


Of course, if you really wanted to, you could cut that collector, bend it again, then weld it, and finally, push it in! But I had neither the desire nor the opportunity. That's why I sold it.
By the way, a teammate had exactly the same story with the same collector. But I heard that it somehow fits on the E34 with the M20.
So, the Chinese "tuning" had to be abandoned! And such a thing!... :)
For now, I will install the factory collectors, and then we will see... ;)

Exhaust manifold




Part No. 1 - front exhaust manifold (11 62 1 710 834) - 1 pc.
Part #2 - threaded plug CM8X1 (07 11 9 919 210) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 3 - sealing ring A8X11.5-AL (07 11 9 963 041) - 2 pcs.

Part No. 4 - rear exhaust manifold (11 62 1 710 825) - 1 pc.
Part No. 5 - M8 nut (11 62 1 711 954) - 12 pcs. Copper nut FEBI 03687.

Part No. 6 - sealing gasket with heat shield (11 62 1 723 655) - 2 pcs. I use ELRING 495900.


Part No. 7 - mounting pin M10X40 (11 62 1 716 870) - 6 pcs.
Part No. 8 - sealing gasket (11 76 1 711 717) - 2 pcs. I use FEBI 01610.
Part #9 - nut M10 (18 30 1 737 774) - 6 pcs. Copper nut TRUCKTEC 0839054.


The collectors were sandblasted and painted with heat-resistant zinc paint.
Screw the threaded plugs (No. 2) with sealing rings (No. 3) into special holes on the collectors. I'm not sure, but I read somewhere that these holes are used to measure CO2 in the engine exhaust. But why do you need two more threaded holes - I don't know. If anyone knows, please let me know.
There was no point in unscrewing the pins (#7) from the collectors. Therefore, they are already installed on the collectors - we put gaskets (No. 8) on them and tighten the nuts (No. 9).


We put gaskets with heat shields (No. 6) on the studs, install and fasten the collectors with copper nuts (No. 5).

Previously, the pins were treated with copper grease.


Exhaust manifolds are installed. Now I can install the exhaust system.

P.S.
And what about "tuning"?! - you say... ))
Somehow so. ;)


Of course, not as beautiful as shiny china :) However, everything fit perfectly!
The real "old school" for BMW E30 with M20 - Sebring.


Exactly such equal-length collectors were installed on the BMW E30 AC Schnitzer.
It doesn't look very attractive right now, but I hope I can revive it! There will be a separate post about this later. Then I will think about a new exhaust system with a beautiful sound... But for now, everything will remain as it was before.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_172_ETK_11_Engine. Cylinder head

Well, to finally start the engine, you need to install the exhaust system and exhaust manifolds. So, let's go back to assembling the engine. Namely, to ETK sections

Cylinder head - additional elements


Cylinder head




Part No. 18 - installation pin (07 12 9 908 134) - 12 pcs.

The cylinder head had been completely rebuilt a long time ago, so I didn't do anything to it other than give it a good cleaning on the outside. But six pins of the exhaust manifolds had to be replaced.
By the way, I took the pins from another cylinder head, which a goat sold me a long time ago, as a fully working one.
But after its disassembly and defecting, a crack appeared in it, so then I decided to completely restore my cylinder head - maybe it's for the better! ;) And this one was lying around in the garage like junk. I also washed her with it.







Crack:




Regarding its repair, the opinions of the masters were divided at the time - some say that you can try to weld the crack and everything will be fine, while others say that the crack after welding can go further along the body... So then I didn't start playing this lottery, but completely rebuilt his cylinder head. And maybe I'll try to weld this one someday... or maybe it's not worth it... If someone can give me some advice on this matter, I'll be grateful.

So, six pins are installed. I treated all the pins with copper grease.


Now I can install exhaust manifolds.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_171_Cooling system. (part 2)

It is logical that to mount the M40 radiator, you need to use the mounting parts for the M40. But I nuances.
First, due to the inaccuracy in the ETK, my carelessness, and confusion between the M20 and M40 parts, I bought the wrong shield I needed. The shield should cover the space on the left between the body and the radiator - here:


The M20 shield for the air conditioner (17 11 1 712 829) costs $60 - not adequate, for a piece of plastic, in my opinion. Without an air conditioner, this space is closed with a standard diffuser (51 71 1 939 304).






So at first I wanted to cut it out of the diffuser. Then I noticed in the M40 section a shield (17 11 1 712 828) - for the air conditioner. And its price of $15 is more or less a normal price for a piece of plastic. I ordered it. Two weeks later, this arrived.




I tried it on the radiator and only then did I realize that I needed a tropical climate shield for the M40, not an air conditioner! And this is the same M20 shield for the air conditioner (17 11 1 712 829) for $60 :) And this one does not fit at all! The trick failed! )))


I already wanted to return to the variant of cutting from the diffuser...


And then he twisted that shield (17 11 1 712 828) in his hands...




I looked at the photo of the shield (17 11 1 712 829) on the Internet...


And I thought - I have never cut new original BMW parts - it's time to start! )))


This is how a shield (17 11 1 712 828) for $15 turns into a shield (17 11 1 712 829) for $60 in this, not tricky, way! :)




A good start-up for business - bought for $15, cut, - sold for $60! ))) It's a pity that there are not many potential buyers... ))) Sometimes you can only joke about the pricing of BMW parts! :) But let's get back to the assembly.


Fan Shroud




Part #1 - fan casing (17 11 1 719 249) - 1 pc. Here again is a nuance. The fan shroud for the M40 takes up half the space under the hood! :) Therefore, of course, for the M20, it will not physically fit between the engine and the radiator.
Width-wise, my old shroud (17 11 1 712 846) was fine, but I wasn't sure if it would fit properly on the impeller, so I left it for now, even though it's broken at the bottom. Later I will buy an M20 casing (17 11 1 712 845) for the air conditioner.
Part #2 - clip (17 11 1 712 963) - 2 pcs.

Part #3 - radiator bracket A=30MM (17 11 1 712 347) - 1 pc. The left lower radiator support for the air conditioner.

Part #4 - radiator bracket 10MM (17 11 1 178 449) - 1 pc. The right lower support of the radiator.
Part No. 5 - rubber buffer (17 11 1 178 4120 - 2 pcs.

The right support is the same for all radiators. The left support depends on the width of the radiator and is of several types. In the photo, the left supports for M20 and M40 radiators, and the right standard support. You can also get confused here...


Part No. 6 - fastening (17 11 1 709 347) - 1 pc. Upper mounting of the radiator.
Part No. 7 - rubber buffer (17 11 1 150 984) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 8 - self-tapping screw ST6.3X22 (17 11 1 712 1420 - 2 pcs.

Part No. 9 - shield (17 11 1 712 829) - 1 pc. He is in his first life (17 11 1 712 828) :)
Part No. 10 - clip D=7.5MM (51 48 1 915 964) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 11 - profile pad L=483MM (17 11 1 719 321) - 1 pc. Rubber seal.


We put the lower buffers on the legs of the radiator.




It is more convenient to install the radiator without a cover.
The lower fastening of the casing


Upper fastening of the casing


We put the rubber gasket (No. 11) on the shield (No. 9).


But we fix the shield with two clips on the body. We snap the left lower support into a special bracket on the body.


We snap the right lower support into a special bracket on the body.


We install the radiator with buffers on the lower supports, align it, and screw the upper and lower hoses to the left.


We connect the connector to the coolant level sensor and fix the wiring with a clip.


We screw the lower hose to the right and connect the connector to the temperature sensor.


We install the upper rubber buffers on the bracket, press the radiator with them and fasten with two self-tapping screws through special holes in the body.


We install the casing in the lower fasteners and fix it with clips in the upper fasteners. But here again something is not clear - the clips are short and are not fixed in the holes.


Maybe it's a matter of a non-original radiator... When replacing the casing, I'll pick up some other clips, but for now I fixed it with ties.
The radiator is installed.




Put the air filter housing and other parts that were removed back in place. Almost everything is installed under the hood.




Almost everything...


It remains to install fuel injectors and exhaust manifolds.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_171_Cooling system. (part 1)

Finally, I selected and waited for the radiator, then you can proceed to the ETK section
Cooling system

I have already written about the installation of the oil cooler before. Therefore, now we will talk about the main engine cooling system.
But I remind you that my cooling system is a little not standard, but made by analogy with the BMW E34 cooling system with the M20 engine. Its main difference from the standard system is a radiator with a built-in expansion tank. In my opinion, it has a more aesthetic appearance, without additional hoses and an early archaic expansion tank and radiator. A restyle tank and radiator could be installed, but as you have already seen, I have an automatic oil fill tank installed in its place. Therefore, I decided to leave everything as it was, only to replace the radiator with a larger one for the air conditioner.
Therefore, I do not consider the following ETK sections for cars up to 87.
Water cooling radiator, fan shroud


Although I accidentally ordered one part for mounting this radiator.


Expansion tank


Also I am not looking at the ETK section
Additional electric fan


I have an air conditioner installed that uses a similar electric fan attached to the air conditioner condenser. I have already written about this before. Accordingly, additional brackets for mounting the electric fan are not used in my case.

So, since my cooling system is not standard, and I need to choose a radiator with a built-in expansion tank, but of a larger size, for the air conditioner, I started by comparing the sizes of the radiators.
Radiators are of three types in terms of size, in order of increase - standard, for air conditioning, and for tropical countries.
Early radiators for cars up to 87 do not suit me at all in terms of hose placement.
The radiators for the post-'87 cars don't work for me because they all came with a separate expansion tank for the M20 engine.
Therefore, I considered them purely theoretically, to compare their area.

Water cooling radiator, fan shroud


Although some fastening details are suitable, but more on them later.

The radiators for the BMW E34 with the M20 engine do not suit me, because in the versions for air conditioning and tropical countries they are too wide and physically will not fit in the E30. A standard radiator will fit, but it is too small for an air conditioner.

What is the way out of this situation?
Radiators for BMW E30 with M40 and M42 engines. The variant for tropical countries has a built-in expansion tank and the required width and area.

For the convenience of comparing the sizes and area of radiators, I even made a table - maybe it will be useful to someone too.


It is clearly visible here that the area of the radiator was the largest on early cars. After restyling, it was slightly reduced. A 440x436 mm radiator with an area of 0.192 m2 was installed for the air conditioner according to ETK.
What is interesting and not very clear - for the E34, the area of the radiator is even smaller!
But for tropical countries with M40 and M42 engines, a radiator with a built-in expansion tank of similar dimensions of 440x436 mm and an area of 0.192 m2 was installed. That's exactly what I ordered.
There was still an idea to buy the same radiator, but for an automatic transmission - suddenly one day I want to install an "automatic machine"! ;) The difference is the presence of two additional fittings for automatic transmission oil cooling hoses. But the required radiator was not available, so we had to abandon this idea. Maybe someday I will return to her again... ;)
I chose among analogues, and as it turned out, there are two types of radiator tube connections - mechanical and welded. Radiators with soldered tubes are of higher quality and more reliable. These are the ones that go in the original. So my choice fell on a Nissens radiator with welded tubes for tropical countries with an M40 engine and a manual gearbox.




Soldered tubes:






Number:




The set includes a plug at the bottom of the tank and a drain plug:


Plug for the connection of the temperature sensor for the air conditioner:


Plug for pumping air:



So, the torment of choosing a radiator is behind you - you can start installing everything! :)
Accordingly, we consider everything related to the radiator in the ETK section for M40 and M42 engines.
Expansion tank, water cooling radiator




Part No. 1 - coolant radiator (17 11 1 728 907). For tropical countries. I use the Nissens 60623A analog.
Part #2 - expansion tank (17 11 1 712 835) - 1 pc. Complete with a radiator.
Part #3 - sealing ring D=77.0MM (17 21 1 712 965). - 1 pc. Complete with a radiator.
Part #4 - sealing ring D=14.5MM (17 11 1 712 966). - 1 pc. Complete with a radiator.
Part No. 5 - cover (17 11 1 712 825) - 1 pc. Complete with a radiator.
Part No. 6 - bolt M6X16 (17 11 1 719 057) - 2 pcs. Complete with a radiator.
Part No. 7 - radiator plug 1.4BAR (17 11 1 742 232) - 1 pc. A similar 1.4BAR plug is used for the M20 engine, but with a new number (17 13 7 639 023). Everyone advises to take the original cork.

Part No. 8 - screw for removing air (17 11 1 712 788) - 1 pc. Complete with a radiator.

Part No. 9 - threaded plug (17 11 1 712 816) - 1 pc. Complete with a radiator. Antifreeze drain plug. Blocks the drain pipe.

Part #10 - double thermal switch 91/99CEL (61 31 1 378 073) - 1 pc. For two speed modes of the electric fan of the air conditioner
Part No. 11 - threaded plug M14X1.5 (07 11 9 919 146) - 1 pc. Complete with a radiator.
Part No. 12 - sealing ring A14X18 (07 11 9 963 201) - 1 pc. Complete with a radiator.

Part No. 13 - coolant level sensor in the radiator L= 95MM (61 31 1 384 739) - 1 pc. I use the MEYLE 3148009018 analogue.
Part No. 14 - ring of round cross-section D=19.3X2.4 (61 31 1 361 249) - 1 pc. Complete with a radiator.
Part No. 15 is a plug, for some reason it is not indicated in the ETK, although it is included with the radiator.


So, we install the radiator cap. The screw and its sealing ring were included with the radiator.


We set the temperature sensor to the contents of the cork. The o-ring was included with the radiator, so I wasted buying it separately. Also installed the original ring.


Instead of the lower plug, we install a coolant level sensor. The sealing ring was in the plug. In addition, the same ring is also included in the sensor kit. I again bought it separately for nothing - now there will be as many as two spare rings.








The radiator is ready for installation.




Next, about the details for its fastening.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_170_Oil Level Matic automatic oil filling system

There is some delay with the fastening of the sill plates, so I will write about them a little later so as not to return to them later.

And now, since the wings are already installed, you can install one interesting thing. This is an "aftermarket" option for BMW E23, E28 and E30 - the Oil Level Matic automatic oil filling system. It was available mainly in France and Austria. The shape of the tank was different for each body. There were two types - for cars without an on-board control system, and for cars with an on-board control system. In the first version, the system has a special oil dipstick with a built-in oil level sensor. In the second option, the system uses the standard oil level sensor of the on-board control system.
So I have a kit for an E30 with on board control system.


The kit includes a plastic tank for three liters of lubricant, a pump, a hose, a special oil dipstick, an ECU and wiring.
A tank with a lid and an oil level dipstick in it.






Pump, hose and dipstick.


ECU with wiring.


The wiring was designed for cars with Jetronic, where the ignition coil is near the air filter, and was also cut off, so I had to make an extension cord with a connector.


The tank is screwed together with the left wing. The wings are already installed. We close the joint of the wing with the body with body sealant (later, I will probably paint it, as it was from the factory). It is important to seal the joint of the body rib and wing with sealant so that it does not get under the hood.


We install side seals. The left seal needs to be cut in the places where the tank is attached.


The same on the right side.




Everything is ready to install the Oil Level Matic. I start by connecting the wiring. I drew the diagram directly on the ETM diagram.


We connect the power supply to the "+15" contact of the ignition coil.


We lay the wiring together with the motor wiring along the motor shield and the left wing to the oil level sensor. I made an additional connector on the motor wiring from the "dynamic" level wire.


We connect it and fix the wiring in clips. For this, it was necessary to remove the air filter housing.



We screw the mass terminal behind the left headlight at point G104 and connect the wiring to the ECU.


The ECU snaps into a special niche at the bottom of the tank. On the bottom of the tank, I glued strips of anti-squeak.


The tank is screwed together with the wing with two self-tapping screws.


We install the pump (in the same way as in the tank of the washer), connect the wiring and hose to it.


We replace the standard oil dipstick with a special one.


The oil level marks on them match (I haven't replaced the oil yet).


Connect the hose to the dipstick.


We fix it with a tape with "Velcro" to other hoses.


The Oil Level Matic automatic oil filling system is installed.


Briefly about the principle of its work.
The tank contains three liters of engine oil. When the oil level in the engine drops to a critical level, the oil level lamp lights up on the standard panel of the on-board control system. The timer of the ECU Oil Level Matic starts counting down the time, and if the lamp does not go out for a while, the ECU turns on the pump and, also according to the timer, adds oil through the oil dipstick tube for 10-15 seconds. After which it turns off. That is, the system works even while the car is moving.
The first type of this system works from its own sensor on the dipstick, and measures the oil level only after the car is stopped and the ignition is turned off. Obviously, the second type has an advantage, because it can work continuously, while moving.
But there is one nuance. The regular oil level sensor, due to its design features, has a certain "inertia". That is, the lamp does not go out immediately after the oil level is restored - the sensor needs some time to measure the oil level. And when the battery is disconnected for a long period of time, this lamp lights up in any case, regardless of the actual oil level. Therefore, in this case, the Oil Level Matic will give you another level of lubrication on top! :) I've had this happen twice already - I had to drain the excess oil afterwards! :)) Also, when disconnecting the battery, it is better to immediately disconnect the Oil Level Matic pump ;) And after connecting the battery, wait until the oil level lamp goes out, and only then connect the pump.
Such an interesting thing! ;)

[The_Glory]

Assembly_169_Installation of BBS body kit (part 2) - door overlays

Let's go back to body clearances. As I already said, after trying on the linings on the doors, it became clear that when opening all the doors, the linings will rub against the doors and wings. Well, you need to set all the gaps again, and increase them a little. But first you need to install the overlays on the door. They are glued to the body polyurethane sealant. I used APP PU50 sealant. One balloon was enough.
A set of door linings BBS.


Four pieces per door.
Front.




Rear




Two on the front wings.




Two on the rear arches.




So, the essence of the problem turned out to be not so much in small gaps, but in the fact that the lining rested against the decorative moldings and did not fit snugly against the door. Therefore, I had to remove all the moldings.


After that, the pads fell into place and were not rubbed. We degrease the door and glue the overlay. It is important not to seal the drainage channels of the overlays. Fix with masking tape.








done








But, just in case, we increased the gaps by 0.5-1 mm.




The front wings were also moved forward by 0.5-1 mm. By the way, here you can see the difference in the shape of the edge of the wings. Although according to ETK they are all under the same number.


We install the wings on top of the sealant.




We set equal gaps, and fix each with seven self-tapping screws.


Later, it will be necessary to apply sealant to the joint of the wing near the windshield.
In the front part, we connect the wing with the apron under the headlight and under the bumper near the wheel arch.


We screw the wing rib from the inside with two self-tapping screws to the body brackets near the door hinges.
From above.


And from below


We fasten the bottom of the wing with two self-tapping screws.


Now the front drain of the hatch goes here - it is more logical than in the threshold, as it was at the factory.


We re-expose the hood, and we get practically the same and equal gaps on the body.
Left side.








Right side.








This time, the day of painstaking work was not in vain! :)
Maybe not all the clearances on the body are perfect, but in general it turned out pretty decent, in my opinion.


All doors open normally, nothing rubs.
But everything can't be that simple! :)) Now the moldings do not stand, because the edge rests on the glued overlays! I'm going crazy! ))) But that's it, I'll come up with something! ;)

Next, about the threshold overlays.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_168_Installation of body kit BBS (part 1) - rear apron

So - installation of a BBS body kit.
This is a very rare kit for pre-facelift E30s. I started looking for it piece by piece long before the bodywork started. I have been looking for the whole set for about eight years. By the way, I never found a spoiler, although I don't need it. Unless I buy it, just for the set.
And finally, it's time to install it! :)
I'll start again from the back! :) The rear apron took up a lot of space in the garage, so that it wouldn't get in the way and wouldn't scratch it, I installed it at the very beginning of assembling the car. Perhaps you have already noticed him in the photo. Also, I already wrote that I installed stainless steel threaded rivets before painting the car to attach aprons and door sill plates. Therefore, I will use M4 bolts with stainless steel washers and a universal rubber gasket for fastening.


Stainless threaded rivet in the body.


I glued a rubber seal along the contour of the apron.


We insert M4 stainless bolts with washers into the holes.


Six bolts on the rear panel and two bolts on each side in the rear fenders.


Fasten the apron.


done


But it was not possible to do without self-tapping screws! :) The ends of the wheel arches are very narrow, so neither steel nor plastic rivets fit there. By the way, the BBS manufacturer envisages attaching its body kit to self-tapping screws. Cheap, but angry! :)
We fix the apron in the rear arches with two self-tapping screws.


Then I replaced them with black ones so that it would not be noticeable ;)


I covered the self-tapping screws from the inside with a non-hardening bitumen-rubber tape. The car will not be driven in winter, so I think corrosion will not appear there very soon... ;)

[The_Glory]

It really is coming together nicely, glad to see you are still making progress!

thank you, yes, there is progress, albeit very slow...

[roguetoaster]

It really is coming together nicely, glad to see you are still making progress!

[The_Glory]

Assembly_167_ Front Assembly (First Attempt)

So, I install the front fenders and hood. Everything sounds simple, but in fact - almost a whole day of work together with a body builder! Both front doors had to be installed anew. How tired it is!
But as a result, all gaps are equal and minimal in width, as far as possible.













Finished, all was well... But only until I decided to try the BBS cover on the door! I tried it on - and when the door was fully opened, the pad rubbed against the wing! And the back panel was rubbing against the front door. And so on all four doors! Fiasco!
The gaps are too small - you need to increase them - all over again! ))) The coachbuilder felt dizzy from this! ))) A day of painstaking work - in the ass! ))
It was necessary to install those overlays from the very beginning... Well, we are not looking for easy ways! ))) Although, looking ahead, I will say that the problem was not only in small gaps.
I was going to install the thresholds and BBS pads last, but as practice has shown, you need to start there!
So, further about the installation of thresholds and BBS overlays.

P.S.
There is also good news - finally, the radiator has arrived, I am still waiting for its fasteners and shields.
During this time, I did a little work on the exhaust system - there, too, everything turned out to be not as simple as I would like! ) But more on that later.

[The_Glory]

Collection_166. ETK_63_Lights. Installation of headlights and assembly of the front part.

So, finally, you can install headlights.
First, we lay all the wiring harnesses and fix them with clamps under the left headlight. We check all terminals "ground" G104 behind the left headlight. We check the connectors for connecting the wiring of the headlight cleaner and the electric fan.
We fasten the headlight with three self-tapping screws.


We connect all connectors to the headlight.
Blue - position lights.
Yellow - dipped beam.
White - high beam.
We insert the hydraulic corrector tube into the fitting on the drive. Although, it will not work yet.
We connect the connector of the electric drive of the headlight cleaner, and through the special hole in the headlight frame, we pass the hose of the headlight washer nozzle.




The fog light connector will be connected after installing the BBS front apron together with the fog lights.

We put the shield on the corrugation of the air filter, and install the plastic protective shield of the headlights. We fix it with two clips.


The left side is ready.

Let's go to the right side.
We stretch in front of the fan and lay all wiring harnesses and hoses. We fix them with clamps under the right headlight. I used a few more wire holders. We connect the right sound signal.


By the way, the brackets for the headlight cleaner connectors did not match. I don't know why, but there were no suitable holes in the body for them, and the connectors do not reach them. Maybe they are for restyling...

We install the tank for the washing liquid and connect the ECU and three pumps. The headlight washer hose is connected to the rear pump. The other two hoses come out of the hood, so they will be connected after it is installed.




We lay the wiring along the spar and fix it. The wiring to the air conditioner compressor will be connected after it is installed.


We fasten the headlight with three self-tapping screws.


All connectors and hoses of the right headlight are connected similarly to the left headlight.


The plastic protective shield of the headlights must be cut, because it rests on the hose and dryer of the air conditioner. There are factory marks on the shield for this.
Cutout for the headlight washer hose.


Cutout for air conditioning dryer.


Cutout for air conditioner hose.


It is interesting that on the front side of the shield there are also similar factory marks, but their outline is larger. Maybe it's for different configurations...
Cutout for the headlight washer hose.


Cutout for air conditioning dryer.


Cutout for air conditioner hose.


I cut along a smaller outline on the inside of the shield. The photo shows the difference with the outline on the front side.


Then I had to cut a little more under the dryer, because it rested. Apparently, the analogue is slightly larger in size than the original.

We install a plastic protective shield for the headlights. We fix it with two clips.


Everything is installed on the right.




I wrote about the installation of the front apron a long time ago in the corresponding section. But, I will repeat, since the apron was removed for convenience.


We insert the insert plates into special holes in the body - under the headlights and under the towing loops.


We fasten the apron with two self-tapping screws on each side.




The apron is installed. We pass the wiring with turn signal connectors through special holes.




We insert rubber pads on the towing loops.


Wire harnesses and hoses are tightly fixed with clamps all over the apron. The photo shows why additional cutouts for the air conditioner are made in the apron - with them, the blowing of the condenser and radiator is much better.


In my case, there is a lot of wiring, so the harnesses pass very close to the fan - you need to fasten them well so that they do not rub against the impeller.


The front apron is installed.


Now you can install the wings, the hood, and set the gaps on them.

P.S.
And for now, just out of curiosity, I put on the grilles and nostrils - it seems that everything is more or less even! ;)





A cute little face! :)

[The_Glory]

Collection_165. ETK_64_Heating and air conditioning. (part 11) Condenser, fan.

Finally, it came to installing the fan and condenser.
On cars without air conditioning, a plastic diffuser is installed in front of the radiator. It comes in several types, depending on the model and year of manufacture. But, if there is an air conditioner, it is not installed, since there is a fan and a condenser in its place. In this case, only the side shields are installed.
So, first you need to install the fan side shields. They are shown in ETK in the body section - I already mentioned them then, but at that time I had not yet bought them. Now I have them. Now we are talking only about them.
Front body parts




Part No. 6 - left air duct (51 71 1 937 973) - 1 pc. For cars up to the year 87.
Part No. 7 - right air duct (51 71 1 937 974) - 1 pc. For cars up to the year 87.
Part No. 8 - rivet with spacer sleeve D=7.5MM (51 48 1 915 964) - 4 pcs.

The same shields in ETK are also shown in the body equipment section, where I also mentioned them.
Air Duct




Part No. 6 - right air duct (51 71 1 937 974) - 1 pc. For cars up to the year 87.
Part No. 7 - left air duct (51 71 1 937 973) - 1 pc. For cars up to the year 87.
Part No. 11 - rivet with spacer sleeve D=7.5MM (51 48 1 915 964) - 4 pcs.

There is an unexpected nuance with the fastening. Back then, I ordered original clips D=7.5MM (51 48 1 915 964), I had to take the whole package, although only 4 pieces are needed.




And these clips, surprisingly, did not fit! The holes in the body are larger than the clips - 8 mm in diameter, and the clips did not hold the shields at all.
I had to buy larger universal clips for 8 mm holes.


In the photo, universal ones are on top, original ones are on the bottom.


The shields are wound on top of the body bracket and fixed with two clips each.
Install the right shield.


We install the left shield.


We lay all the wiring through the cutout in the left shield and through the hole in the right shield.


Now you can install the fan and condenser.
Condenser, fan




Part #1 - capacitor R12/R134A (64 53 8 391 509) - 1 pc. I use an analogue of Behr Mahle (AC159000S)

Part No. 2 (No. 3+No. 4) - additional fan (64 54 1 376 973) - 1 pc. I use the original BOSCH fan.

Part #3 - BOSCH impeller (17 40 1 362 100) - 1 pc. Impeller with 5 blades.
Part #4 - BOSCH fan housing (17 40 1 371 261) - 1 pc.
Part No. 5 - BOSCH resistor (17 40 1 373 177) - 1 pc. I use a GM analog (94812213) - I wrote about it in a previous post.

Part #6 - double thermal switch 91/99CEL (61 31 1 378 073) - 1 pc. Instead of two separate thermal switches, I use a double one.
Part No. 7 - sealing ring A14X20-VF (07 11 9 963 227) - 1 pc.

Part No. 8 - rubber cushion (17 11 1 150 984) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 9 - rivet with spacer sleeve (17 11 1 150 983) - 2 pcs. Not used.
Part No. 10 - sheet nut (16 11 1 152 613) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 11 - self-tapping screw ST6.3X19 (07 11 9 916 9700 - 2 pcs.

Part #12 - nameplate "Klimaanlage" 1075G (64 50 1 380 982) - 1 pc. "Freon R12" sticker - I will glue it later, the whole set together.

Part No. 13 - rubber sleeve (17 40 1 362 128) - 3 pcs.
Part No. 14 - M5 bolt (17 40 1 354 522) - 3 pcs.
Part No. 15 - spacer washer (17 40 1 354 523) - 3 pcs.
Part No. 16 - spring ring B5 (07 11 9 933 060) - 3 pcs.
Part No. 17 - M5 nut (07 11 9 922 038) - 3 pcs.


The double thermal switch (#6) on 3 contacts and its sealing ring (#7) will be installed in the main radiator, so I will write about them later.




As I already said, there are no lower rubber pads on the new capacitor. They are in good condition on my old capacitor, and I didn't have time to wait for a new one, so I just glued them onto the new capacitor.
By the way, according to ETK, they are fixed with clips (#9), but neither the old original nor the new capacitors have holes for them. There are also no holes in the pillows - they were glued. Apparently, clips were used on earlier versions.


So, we glue two lower pillows (#8) and insert three rubber bushings (#13) into the brackets.


We screw the fan with three bolts, through washers and rubber bushings to the condenser in this position.


We remove the plugs from the flanges. By the way, the condenser was not under high pressure - probably this is a "guarantee" of tightness.
Ready to install.


We insert sheet nuts into special holes on the body. We insert a fan with a condenser from the inside of the body.


We level it so that it rests on the bottom with pillows in the body, and fasten it with two self-tapping screws.




From above, there is not a large gap to the body.


From below, the fan housing becomes very tight to the oil cooler tube.


We pass the hoses through the hole in the shield and screw them to the flanges with new sealing rings. The tube had to be bent a little. It is necessary to tighten very carefully - the fastening of the flanges on the Chinese capacitor is not very reliable...


Now you can fully connect and fix the dehumidifier - we screw the tube, hose and sensor to it. The tube had to be bent a little.


Here again there is a nuance of the Chinese analogue of the dryer (Behr Mahle) - instead of three fasteners, it has only two, but only one fits into the factory clips on the body. The second does not match. Well, that's it... he'll behave normally anyway, but...


The hose that goes to the compressor is of two types - with a short metal tube or with a long one. I have a long one. Therefore, it was necessary to replace the hose clamp with a smaller one. Maybe it depends on the type of compressor. I will install the compressor later, then I will look, maybe I will have to change the hose... we will see...
The hose had scuff marks on the rib of the spar, so I installed a rubber pad on the rib - the same as the one on the left spar under the fuel hose. I think it will not be superfluous.


Connect the fan wiring connector to the air conditioner wiring under the left headlight.


The fan and condenser are installed and connected.

Now you can finish assembling the front part of the car.

[The_Glory]

Collection_165. ETK_64_Heating and air conditioning. (part 11) Condenser, fan.

The story of how I chose a capacitor.

The air conditioner, of course, included the old original condenser. Everyone recommends immediately replacing it with a new one. I was choosing between Nissens and Behr Mahle. But I ordered Behr Mahle - because in the photo it was exactly the same as the original.


But a miracle did not happen, and the usual "new" Chinese radiator arrived! Exactly the same as Nissens, only a little more expensive. :)


But with the nameplate Behr Mahle)


I didn't really like it for some reason... So, just in case, I decided to check the old radiator. I screwed on the hoses, with a plug and a valve.


And pumped up 6 atmospheres. It was scary to pump more so that the bolt wouldn't fly out! ) And even more than eight, the compressor still does not pump.


I put it in water, held it for a while - it holds the pressure, there are no bubbles! ) That is, it is intact and sealed.


Let's compare. The original one is wider in terms of "honeycombs" - 42x33 cm, against 37x33 cm in the new one.




The old one is also much larger in thickness.


Their construction is completely different. In the old one, two tubes run parallel in a "snake" across the entire plane of the radiator. And in the new one, at first it seemed to me that the horizontal thin tubes were simply all parallel - what a fool! ))


But then I looked more closely and noticed that the vertical side tubes have baffles.




The liquid also circulates in a "snake", but through several tubes in parallel (11-9-7-5). In the photo, I showed the circulation diagram.


People say that with such a scheme, circulation and heat transfer are even better than with the scheme of the old radiator. I want to believe that it is so... But I decided to install a new Chinese radiator after all! )
The upper mounts were poorly riveted, so they had to be drilled and re-riveted. The lower mount is normal, but there were no rubber pads on it - you need to glue them from the old radiator, or order new original ones.




I have already primed and painted the fasteners so that they do not look homemade, from roofing tin) I also cleaned and painted the old radiator.




Don't say anything, but the old original radiator looks better and more reliable!...




Especially the fastening of pipe fittings.






I installed the fasteners and put them in the box - there will be a spare.


Well, the new radiator, with a newly riveted and painted fastener, is ready for installation.










By the way, the Chinese did not completely paint the radiator itself, we had to repaint it for them...
Well, I hope it will serve better than it looks...
Next, about the installation of the fan and condenser.