E30 from Ukraine - "Shadow of Intelligence"

[The_Glory]

I would never bet that anyone would install airbag stuff just for the look. Truly funny and completionist.

Well, I already have a concept - full options! ;)
Although, in principle, if I install a steering wheel with an airbag, and connect all the wiring, then it should work. Maybe with a standard steering column it won't be as safe or effective as the designers intended, but the airbag will work. Well, in fact, this option is not completely meaningless and decorative. I just won't use it. ;)

[roguetoaster]

I would never bet that anyone would install airbag stuff just for the look. Truly funny and completionist.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_82. ETK_65_Electrical parts of NPB (part 1 wiring)

A long time ago, somewhere on the Internet, I read that on early E30 models, the airbag was connected to the C302 accessory connector on IKLMNO foams. But I never found documentary confirmation of this information either in ETM or in EBA. Apparently, it was not written about the E30, or it is a mistake. In fact, a separate orange C240 connector is used for this. I didn't have such a connector, so I still led this wiring to C302 on the IKLMNO pins - these connectors are similar in shape. Why did I do that? I don't know... probably just "for beauty" :) I perfectly understand that in order to fully install the driver's airbag, you need to completely replace the entire steering control - from the steering wheel to the steering rack, including the steering column and its switches. In addition, weld a special metal overlay-amplifier to the tunnel for fastening the steering column spacer, and install a bunch of other specific little things. Doubt I'll ever do that... Especially since I don't like the airbag steering wheel design, especially the early years, and I'll be installing either a wooden momo steering wheel or a BBS steering wheel.
So, for me, this option will be exclusively "decorative" - orange on blue looks beautiful! :)
And only the electrical part will be installed. I bought it from a friend, nearby and not expensive ;)
Electric parts of the airbag




Part No. 1 - airbag ECU
Part #2 - airbag capacitor. I don't know what it is, I probably don't have it. Or maybe it's that rectangular "insert" in the ECU...?


Detail No. 3 - wiring of the front sensors of the airbag
Part No. 4 - shock sensors - 2 pcs.

Part No. 5 - airbag safety switch. Never seen it on cars, not even in a photo. Perhaps it was installed additionally, or only in certain years of production.
Part No. 6 - fastening of the left front sensor. Apparently, it is used only together with detail #5.
Part No. 7 - fastening of the right front sensor.
Part No. 8 - special sensor mounting bolts - 4 pcs.
Part No. 9 - bracket for the sensor connector - 2 pcs.
Part No. 10 - safety switch mounting screw - 2 pcs.
Part No. 11 - bracket. I'm not sure, but it could be the metal body bracket that the shock sensors bolt to.
Parts No. 12...No. 18 are not used.

For some reason, the diagram does not show the wiring to the pillow itself in the steering wheel. I have it.


1 - power connector C240 (in my case - C302 foam IKLMNO)
2.1, 2.2 - wiring connectors to the steering wheel
3.1, 3.2 - wiring connectors for shock sensors
4 - airbag connector in the steering wheel
5.1, 5.2 - shock sensor connectors

So, if you don't have the wiring for the airbag, but you want to install it, then you need to connect the power for it to the C240 connector. It's just.
It is necessary, according to the ETM, to add three power wires from the ignition switch connector (C200), one "ground" wire to the airbag control lamp on the BSK panel, and one wire to the diagnostic connector.

1	BR/BK Brown-Black	0.5mm2	mass of counter. lamps on BSK (7)
2			Not used
3	RD Red	0.5mm2	BAT+ constant power from C200 (9)
4	VI Purple	0.5mm2	ACC power from C200 (4)
5	BK/YL black-yellow	0.5mm2	RUN power from C200 (10)
6	WT/BK white-black	0.5mm2	С101 (16), diagnostics (6)

I routed these wires to the C302 accessory connector on the IKLMNO pins, which are not normally used.




The airbag ECU will be connected here. But without the pillow itself, the indicator light on the BSK panel will probably be on all the time, so I guess I won't connect it :) We'll see...
We pass the wiring of the sensors through the rubber insert in the motor shield - now all its holes are used. We fix it with a sealant. After installing the ECU, connect this wiring to it.


We lead the connector of the left sensor to the left wing.

By the way, I am not sure that it will be possible to install it in the right place - another additional option will be installed there... Maybe I will think of something...
The connector of the right sensor is brought out through the motor shield to the right wing.


Airbag wiring is installed.


I will install the ECU and sensors a little later.

That's it, I came up with a silly and decorative option! :)

Next time I will write about useful small electrical options that will work. ;)

[The_Glory]

Collection_81. Electric curtain (part 1 wiring)

So, the wiring of all standard options connected to the connector of additional equipment C302 is laid and connected. The first test - she is alive!!! :)


Burnt only one fuse! :) There was a short circuit in the rear lamp. Replaced the lamp - everything is OK. I also replaced a couple of lamps in the buttons of the rear ESP. Only the central lock does not work... we need to figure it out... But later.
For now, I will tell you about one of the rarest options for the E30 - the rear electric curtain. It was of two types - with a central guide (up to the year 87) and with side levers (from the year 88). Both are very rare. The curtain could be of several colors. There were similar curtains on E23 and E28 - they differed, apparently, in size. A teammate had such an E28 curtain.




I even considered buying it, but I don't really like the look of it, especially its center rail. The appearance is not very aesthetic, even a little archaic... Similar curtain for E30 (photo from the Internet):




Factory numbers of all model variants and colors (although for some reason they are not all in ETK)


Since 1988, the design of the blind has been changed - instead of the central guide, a mechanism with side levers was installed, as on all modern electric blinds. Such an option is even more difficult to find. I saw her only on the Internet in this video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ng2itydpbEI&ab_channel=E30Passion

Her number is 82 11 9 430 230 - thanks to the author for this information.

Judging by the EBA factory instructions, both curtains are installed on top of the standard rear shelf, and are connected to the cigarette lighter wires.




So, why am I writing all this - I had the opportunity to buy the first option, but it is with E28 and I don't really like it visually, and the second option looks better, but it is practically impossible to find it. Well, I decided to make an electric curtain myself! :) Analogous to more modern electric curtains E32 and E34. Maybe it's a "kolkhoz", but I hope it will look good! ;)
For this, I bought a donor shelf with a mechanical curtain - I will experiment on it so as not to spoil mine.




I am still thinking about choosing an electric curtain... In fact, we need a curtain from any BMW model that will fit in size... we'll see...

I also bought an E32/E34 electric curtain button, an E34 donor audio wiring, and an E34 electric sunroof donor wiring.


The wiring diagram for the E32 seemed optimal to me - I started making the wiring harness for the E30 based on it.
From the audio wiring, I only needed the power wiring - we remove everything unnecessary.


We also remove everything unnecessary from the wiring of the electric sunroof, leaving only the button connector and the necessary wires according to the ETM scheme. We weave all this into a harness of the right length, and we get such a "custom" electric curtain wiring for the E30.


1 - DC power connector C302 pin A (I added this pin myself)
2 - ignition on power connector RUN C302 pin P (I added this pin myself)
3 - electric curtain button connector
4.1 - connector for illumination of the electric curtain button
4.2 - the corresponding parallel connector for lighting the button of the electric curtain
5 - "mass" terminal G300
6 - electric curtain connector

So, as for the connection, I believe that my option is even better than the factory connection to the cigarette lighter. I already wrote earlier that I added pin P for heating the rear seats, parallel to the standard pin U for heating the front seats. This power does not go directly, but through the unloading relay K5, as well as for electric windows. Pin A was added for DC power, in parallel with the radio's stock V DC power pin. On the wiring of the electric blind, I added connector housings that correspond to the "code" in terms of their shape even later. Brown-white for the rear heating (corresponding to the color of the wire for the front heating), and the corresponding parallel black connector from it, for connecting the electric curtain. Black-blue and black on the electric curtain.


We connect the black connectors together, and connect the colored ones to the corresponding C302 pins.


We lay the wiring along the left threshold, and under the driver's seat we bring out the button on the console.


In the same place, we connect the backlight to the connector for the backlight of the rear heating buttons and the phone, which comes from the backlight of the rear ashtray.
We screw the mass terminal under the rear seat at point G300.


Next, we lead the wiring to the back shelf, where the electric curtain will be connected (for now, only the appropriate connector is there).


The wiring is connected, it remains only to choose and install the curtain. ;)

P.S.
In the C302 connector, pin F was normally present, to which, judging by the EBA, the power supply of the standard immobilizer for the M40 engine is connected. Since my engine is not M40, this pin was not used. The power on it is only in the RUN position, so I decided to connect a video recorder to it. Now, during martial law, it is forbidden to use them, but one day this war will end... and I hope that I will live to that time and collect my "thirty"... So then it will come in handy.
I connected it through the universal socket of the cigarette lighter.


Then I will fix it somewhere under the torpedo, and I will lay the wire along the left pillar to the interior mirror, together with the electric sunroof wiring.


Pins B, C and G were left unused in the C302 connector. I added them myself, but I haven't figured out what to connect there yet! :) It was possible to connect a phone to the BC, but I didn't think about it right away, and made a separate connector for it. I didn't want to remake it. So maybe someday they will be needed for something...
I will write about IKLMNO foams next time.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_80. ETK_66_Cruise control

This option is covered in a separate section in ETK
Distance support, cruise control

Unit
Cruise Control System


I don't know why, but this is still duplicated in a similar section for restyling:
Cruise Control System


This option was also available as a kit for equipping:
Cruise Control


Systems for before restyling and after restyling have not significant differences. There are also differences between manual transmission and automatic transmission.
I have a kit for restyling for a manual transmission. But with a servo attachment for restyling.



Part #1 - ECU (65 71 1 386 189). It is installed in the torpedo, above the box for small things.
Part #2 - ECU bracket (65 71 1 373 332)
Part No. 3 - self-tapping screw 4.2x13 (07 11 9 904 310) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 4 - servo drive (65 71 1 373 681)
Part No. 5 - servo drive bracket (41 14 1 902 591). In my case, a restyling bracket (65 71 1 386 226) is used.
Details No. 6...10 - mounting bracket
Detail 11 - steering wheel cruise control switch. There are several types, with inscriptions in different languages. It also differs before restyling and after restyling. After the restyling, a gradual change in speed is available in steps of 1 km/h. I have an option before restyling, with inscriptions in English.
Part No. 12 - screw M5x16 (07 11 9 906 415) - 1 pc. For fixing the switch.
Part No. 13 - cruise control wiring (61 12 1 372 793)



1 - steering wheel switch connector
2 - clutch pedal limit switch connector
3 - "mass" terminal G200
4 - servo drive connector
5 - connector C302 foam R and S
6 - not used (for automatic transmission)
7 - speed signal connector - any of the three identical pins in the green connector on the instrument panel C6 (Tempo)
8 - cruise control ECU connector

Part No. 14 - servo drive cable (65 71 1 371 394)
Part #15 - not used
Part No. 16 - servo cable support (13 54 1 747 519)
Part No. 17 - plastic cable nut (35 41 1 156 139)
Detail #18, 19 - not used
Part No. 20 - limit switch of the clutch pedal (61 31 1 362 809)
Part No. 21 - clutch pedal switch bracket (65 71 1 370 487)
Part No. 22 - bolt M6x12 (07 11 9 915 033) - 1 pc.
Part No. 23 - green connector of the instrument panel (62 11 1 372 218)
Part No. 24 - cable ties L=292MM/B=4.8MM (61 13 1 377 134) - 5 pcs.

We start by installing the servo. Before restyling, for its installation, you need to drill three holes in the body, behind the left headlight. I had just such a bracket, but I didn't want to drill holes. That's why I bought a new restyling bracket that screws near the air filter housing - it's more convenient and easier, in my opinion. We fasten the servo drive, pull its cable to the throttle. After installing the motor, I will connect it to the throttle lever. The cable is attached to the body support with a bracket (35 41 1 120 354) under the support bearing nut. For some reason, the bracket in ETK is indicated only on the scheme for restyling (part #19). It is no longer available, so I made it myself. There is a place for this bracket on the cable - a white pad.


We lay the wiring from the servo drive along the left wing and through the rubber insert in the engine shield we bring it into the cabin. We connect it to connector 4 of the cabin wiring of the cruise control No. 13.


We connect connector 5 to C302 to pins R and S. This is the power supply and signal of the brake lights on. We screw the "mass" terminal 3 to point G200 under the steering wheel.




We install the cruise control switch on the steering column. To do this, you need to cut a hole in the plastic overlay according to the factory markings.


We connect it to connector 1 - in the photo, the upper connector on the steering column.


In the photo of the kit, the clutch pedal limit switch and its bracket are missing. This is because I installed it on the pedal assembly earlier when I assembled the pedals. This was more convenient than screwing it in place. So, connect connector 2 to the switch. On cars with an automatic transmission, a jumper is used instead.


We connect the speed signal connector 7 to any of the three identical pins in the green connector on the instrument panel C6 (Tempo). Now all three parallel pins are busy - cruise control, radio and phone. On cars with an automatic transmission with electronic control, the automatic transmission wiring is also connected here. Then this connector is inserted into the dashboard.


We lay the wiring to the right and connect it to connector 8 of the cruise control ECU. The computer unit will be fixed in the torpedo, above the box for small things after the interior is assembled.


Cruise control is set.

Therefore, all standard pins of the C302 connector are used, even one additional pin (P). But I "pro-upgraded" C302, so I will connect a few more connectors to it. ;)
About that next time.

[The_Glory]

Collection_79. ETK_63_Adjusting the angle of inclination of the headlights

We return to the ETK section
Lighting devices

Unit
Headlight Aim Control


A long time ago, I installed restyling headlights with lenses and with actuators for adjusting their angle. I also installed a steering wheel cover with a regulator handle. But the tubes on the actuators and on the regulator were barbarically cut off. I recently bought a regulator with whole tubes - now I have a complete set, but of course it doesn't work. After assembling the machine, I will try to fill the tubes with antifreeze, seal the entire system and pump it. There is a description of this procedure on the Internet, although, as practice shows, its effect is not long-lasting and it needs to be repeated periodically. Or I'll buy a new set if it's still available. And for now, this option will remain "decorative" for me :)


Part No. 1 - headlight adjustment hydraulic drive (63 12 1 370 959). The set includes two actuators, two tubes with a rubber seal and a regulator handle. In the photo, the actuators are missing, as they are installed on the headlights. I will connect them after installing the headlights.
Part No. 2 - regulator backlight cover (63 12 1 370 950)
Part No. 3 - regulator housing (63 12 1 370 961)
Part No. 4 - mounting bracket (63 12 1 372 619)
Part No. 5 - fastening bolt (63 13 1 370 849) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 6 - regulator mounting screw (07 11 9 902 236) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 7 - wiring of the backlight of the regulator handle (61 12 1 372 743)
Part #8 - backlight lamp 0.36 WATT (61 13 8 360 844) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 9 - headlight angle adjustment kit (63 12 9 060 602).





Housing No. 3 is inserted into a special hole in the casing, and is screwed from the middle with bracket No. 4 and bolts No. 5. The backlight cover with lamp holder No. 2 simply snaps into the housing.


We pass the tubes through a special hole in the rubber insert on the motor shield, and fix the rubber seal. We lay the tubes together with other wiring along the left wing to the headlights.


The tubes for something have different colors - the left is blue-green, and the right is white. We stretch them to the headlights. After installing the headlights, I will connect their fittings to the drives on the dipped beam headlights.


Wiring of the backlight of the regulator handle:


1 - connector C302 pin E, power from the backlight of the devices.
2 - terminal "mass" G200.
3.1, 3.2 - illumination lamps of the regulator handle



We connect the wiring to connector C302 on pin E, and screw the "mass" terminal at point G200 under the steering wheel.


It remains to screw the regulator to the housing, insert the lamps into the cover and install the steering wheel cover. But it will be after the assembly of the cabin.


The next option is cruise control.

[The_Glory]

The addition of that sticker to the antenna really was a nice touch.

Everything should be beautiful :)

[roguetoaster]

The addition of that sticker to the antenna really was a nice touch.

[The_Glory]

Collection_78. ETK_65_Antenna accessories

So, about the antenna. There were several types of them - mechanical or electric, with different cables and connectors, different fasteners, with a chrome or black rod. I have already written about the installation of an electric antenna before, so I will write briefly, without unnecessary details and numbers.
Until 1985, antennas were with threaded connectors.
Antenna accessories


Detail #1 - mechanical antenna. We do not consider its details.
Item #3 - Hirschmann Auta 6000 powered antenna.
Detail No. 5 - chrome or black (shadow line) telescopic element.
Detail #7 - wiring and antenna cable. It can be with a threaded or plug-in connector for the antenna.
Item No. 8 - antenna connector adapter
Item No. 10 is a special key for attaching the antenna
Part No. 11 - the antenna fastening nut
Item No. 12 - antenna repair kit

After 1985, the antennas were with plug-in connectors.
Antenna accessories


Basically, everything is the same, but there are two types of antenna cable - with different connectors to the radio - "father" or "mother", for different radios.


Part No. 13 is a cable "father", for later models of radios.
Part No. 14 - "mother" cable, for earlier radio models (top left in the photo).
Adapters for both types of cable were also provided.
Part No. 8 - adapter "mom-dad" (65 12 1 394 202)


Part No. 16 - adapter "father-mother" (65 12 1 388 950)


Original adapters cost 18-20 Euro - unreasonably expensive, in my opinion. That's why I bought analogues at a price of 0.5 Euro. In addition, analogs are made in one housing, without additional cable connections - this is even better for the quality of reception.


The antenna itself is not in the photo - I could not find the Hirschmann Auta 6000. But kits were available for equipping in the accessories section.
It could be a set of mechanical antenna - we do not consider it.
Mechanical antenna


Hirschmann Auta 6000 electric antenna kit. In principle, the same as shown above.
Automatic antenna


Electric antenna set Hirschmann Hit Auta 5091. This is a more universal model that was installed on different brands and models of cars.
Automatic antenna


I managed to find just such an antenna, although not a complete set, and in a non-working condition. The antenna was repaired, cleaned, equipped with the original relay and wiring with a cable, a hose for drainage, made a bracket for its attachment instead of a universal mounting plate.


Briefly about the repair. Most likely, the telescopic element was replaced in the antenna, but it is a little shorter, so the extreme positions of the element did not coincide with the position of the limit switches, and the fuse constantly blew. We disassemble the case, remove the plastic covers, remove the gear from the engine so that the telescopic element can be moved freely by hand.


On the other hand, remove the rubber gasket and the limit switch cover.


The point is to choose the size of the sector that breaks the contacts in the extreme positions of the telescopic element. In words it is difficult, but in fact everything is simple - you move the telescope, count the revolutions of the gears, and mark the extreme positions. To increase the contact gap sector, I pasted a piece of black oracle - it works fine.


Next, for the antenna to work, you need a relay to reverse the polarity of the contacts, which was not included in the kit. On later models, it is already built into the antenna, and on this model, it is taken out separately. First, I made it from two standard relays according to the following scheme:


In theory, everything should work. But often, especially at the moment of starting the engine with the radio on, both relays did not work synchronously, but one with a delay of a fraction of a second. This was enough to cause a short circuit and blow the fuse. And when I ran out of original fuses, I stupidly installed a Chinese fuse - all the wiring of those two relays burned out, it's good that the car didn't burn down. I do not recommend this option.
I bought an original polarity reversal relay in a radio store and assembled it according to the manufacturer's original scheme.


Relay


unpinning


Scheme of work


In the wiring, I replaced the antenna cable for earlier radio models with a "mother" connector.


1 - connector of the antenna cable to the radio ("mother")
2.1 - antenna power control connector (turns on and off when the radio is turned on and off)
2.2 - parallel connector suitable for 2.1 (for powering the audio amplifier)
3 - connector for constant power supply of electric antenna C302 pin Z
4 - electrical antenna connector
5 - connector of the antenna cable to the electric antenna

I didn't have a regular antenna at all, so I had to make a hole in the wing to install it. The dimensions of the opening are specified in the EBA factory instructions.


By default, this antenna is attached with a universal mounting plate. I made a bracket for it - it is more reliable and neater in appearance. I am attaching the drawing, maybe someone will need it too.


The bracket is screwed to the antenna body in the hole provided there.
We connect the wiring and antenna cable to the antenna. By the way, in the previous topic I wrote about the antenna adapter. So in this case, we connect the antenna cable from the radio to the upper connector of the adapter, and connect the cable from the middle connector of the adapter to the antenna. The telephone antenna cable is connected to the lower connector.


We insert the antenna into the hole, put all the washers, spacers, rubber gasket, and decorative overlays shown in the photo and fasten with a nut. At the bottom, we screw the bracket into the hole on the edge of the wheel arch together with the "mass" terminal. I fixed the relay to the antenna body with a tie. We put a hose on the lower drain fitting of the body and lead it outside, through the ventilation grill in the rear wing. The hose was fixed with a tie to the water drain hose from the hatch.
I also made a sticker on the antenna body, because the old one was completely worn off.


We pull the wiring and cable into the cabin and along the left threshold. The red wire connects to connector C302 on the Z pin.


But the ESP comfort relay is already connected there. Therefore, connect the antenna connector to the corresponding relay connector with a red-yellow wire.


We connect the white wire to the corresponding connector of the audio wiring near the radio. We lead the connector of the antenna cable to the radio.


The antenna is installed.


P.S.
Maybe later, after assembling the car, I will buy a new antenna with a black telescopic element, if it is still available.
There are also analogues from other manufacturers.

[The_Glory]

Where did you buy the exhaust manifold ?

Well, I wrote - I bought it from a friend, because he changed his mind about installing it :)
And in general, here it is on the manufacturer's website:

https://turboworks.pl/product-eng-5809-Exhaust-manifold-BMW-E30-320i-323i-325i-325ix.html

[MarkoEST]

Where did you buy the exhaust manifold ?

[The_Glory]

Collection_77. Phone (part 1 wiring)

For some reason, the ETK for E30 does not have a section on a regular phone, although this option was available, and in several variants. Installation of the telephone in the E30 is described in the EBA factory instructions and shown in the company booklets. I already wrote about this in detail before, so I won't repeat myself. I installed the GSM phone kit taken off the E38, so the setup is not exactly factory, but not by much. Now I will write only about the installation of the wiring, and after the assembly of the cabin I will write about the installation of the phone itself and the speaker system (hands-free).
So, the set includes power wiring for the telephone unit, direct telephone wiring, speaker system wiring and an antenna cable.
The power wiring of the telephone unit looks like this:


1 - power connector. By default, the phone's power supply is connected to the C103 connector, but I thought it would be more convenient to duplicate it from the radio's power supply to a separate connector:
BATT+ constant power from the battery - C302 (V)
ACC+ power supply from ignition - C302 (X)
2 - speed signal connector for volume control (any of the three identical pins in the green connector on the instrument panel C6 (Tempo)
3 - the connector of the front left speaker for the speaker system (hands-free) - the second pair of contacts
4 - the connector of the front right speaker for the speaker system (hands-free) - the second pair of contacts
5 - connector for connecting the phone to the radio (TEL MUTE and I-BUS). Muting the sound of music during an incoming call TEL MUTE also works on most standard E30 radios, and in order to display the number of an incoming call on the radio screen, you probably need to install newer models of radios that support I-BUS.
6 - connector for backlighting the phone buttons. I connected it to the backlight of the rear ashtray, with a separate connector, together with the backlight of the buttons for heating the rear seats.
7 - "mass" terminal G300
8 - phone ECU power connector
9 - phone ECU connector for hands-free system
10 - speakerphone microphone connector (hands-free)

Telephone wiring:


1 - phone ECU connector
2 - connector of the telephone ECU for the speakerphone system (hands-free). Connects to connector 9 of the previous wiring.
3 - phone ECU power connector. Connects to connector 8 of the previous wiring.
4, 5 - base and handset connectors

In addition, an antenna cable is connected to the ECU. Without an antenna, the phone may fail.

Phone ECU on a bracket with E38


The SIM card is inserted as a whole.


The ECU is normally installed on a special bracket on the rear left wing trim. But I installed it under the rear shelf because this ECU is much more compact than the older models. He became very good, as if he was there!




We connect the wiring and antenna cable.


By the way, about the antenna. A separate GSM antenna is used for the phone. But you can install an adapter to use one antenna for radio and phone. I don't know what it is called, but I found two such units and several telephone antennas. Even one more Soviet-made on a magnet! :)


There was also an idea to make a spaced antenna using the filaments of the rear window heating, as in the newer BMW models, but for this the heating would have to be physically separated into separate parts. Well, this idea was shelved, and the remote antenna block remained unused :)
But I did install the block for the radio antenna so as not to install a separate antenna for the phone. The VIMAR unit had a less attractive appearance, so I chose the KATHREIN unit, especially since the GSM antenna was also from this manufacturer.


Made a short antenna cable to it.




Installed and fixed together with the rear lamp control unit.


I connected the antenna cable of the phone and the radio. I will write about wiring the radio antenna separately.


In the cabin, I laid the power wiring along the left threshold and connected it to the separate connector from C302


I laid the telephone wiring under the back seat and through the checkpoint tunnel.


I fixed the wiring on the tunnel with tape. The connectors of the base and the tube were brought to the back of the console, and the microphone to the front. I will install them after assembling the interior.


Connectors of the speaker system (hands-free) are connected to the front speakers on the left and right. Speakers have two pairs of contacts - separately for music and phone. I will install them later as well.


For now, here's an old photo of my installed phone


But the video of his work

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_U1_hLKYQsg

Next time I will write about the electric antenna.

[The_Glory]

Turbo Works Equal Length Manifold and Other Toys

I'm already tired of writing about that wiring... I'd rather show off the toys I've bought lately! :)

For a long time I wanted to install an equal-length collector - not so much for "sport" as for beauty! :) And recently a friend was selling a new set at a good price, so I decided to buy it. Everything, the entire production system will have to be done practically from scratch. Unless, only the old double stronger can be left... we'll see...
So, the Turbo Works manifold is a Polish manifold, most likely made in China! )) People say that this is a copy of Supersprint, but I don't know how true that is...


The set includes front and rear collectors, X-pipe, gaskets and screeds for thermal insulation. By the way, is thermal insulation mandatory or can it be installed without it? It's more beautiful without her! )))


In appearance, the quality of the pipes and welds is good, all flanges are flat on the plane.




I tried it on - it seems to be normal... Although one pin does not go through a bit... By the way, should you unscrew the old pins, or is it better not to touch them so as not to break them? Six pieces came out, and six more remained.


But replacing the oil filter will probably be a "special pleasure" now! :)


But beauty needs sacrifices! (with) :)


The "bonus" to the collector was actually a new, original short link from Z3M. Before that, I had its analogue, now it will be the original. I also started making a wooden pen with backlight.


I bought a couple more cassette decks - with vertical cassettes - I have one idea about them, but more on that later.




And some other little things - a friend printed some useful plastics on a 3D printer. By the way, I didn't take photos of all of them.


But a little electroplating - something I forgot last time.


These are the updates! ;)

Then again about the wiring.... )

[The_Glory]

Collection_76. ETK_65_Details of the audio system (part 1 wiring)

Let's return to the ETK section Audio, navigation, information. systems

So, section Audio system details


Now I will briefly write only about the top E30 audio wiring "Soundsystem" (detail #4 on the diagram), and I will write about the whole set after the interior is assembled. I managed to find the "Soundsystem" wiring for the Touring - it differs from the sedan in the connectors and wire lengths for the rear speakers and the "ground" terminal. Therefore, you will have to connect the rear speakers through home-made adapters, but more on that later. These are the connectors for which it turned out to be very difficult to find the corresponding "folders".




The wiring was in very good condition....but with the effects of early 2000s mp3 audio tuning. - with a cut-off connector for the standard radio... I had to take it from the donor audio wiring E46 and install it on my own wiring.


I also unfoamed the connectors of the radio and the "Soundsystem" amplifier - maybe someone will need it too.



I added two wires to the wiring related to the operation of the telephone - TEL MUTE, muting the sound during an incoming call to a standard telephone, and the I-BUS bus. I don't know if the last one will be useful or not, but just in case! ;) I will write more about this in the corresponding entry about the phone.
So, as a result, I have the following "Soundsystem" wiring:


1 - 16-pin radio connector (for later models, after restyling)
2 - electrical antenna (and audio amplifier) power management connector
3 - speed signal connector for volume control (any of the three identical pins in the green connector on the instrument panel C6 (Tempo)
4.1 - connector BATT+ constant power supply of the amplifier from the battery - C302 (H)
4.2 - connector corresponding to 4.1, for parallel connection of on-board computer wiring - C302 (H)
4.3 - radio power connector:
BATT+ constant power from the battery - C302 (V)
Backlight - C302 (W)
ACC+ power supply from ignition - C302 (X)
GND mass - C302 (Y)
5.1, 5.2, 5.3 - front left speaker and tweeter connectors
6.1, 6.2, 6.3 - connectors for the front right speaker and tweeter
7 - connector for connecting a telephone (TEL MUTE and I-BUS) - added independently.
8 - rear left speaker connector
9 - rear right speaker connector
10 - ground terminal
11 - audio amplifier connector

We connect the power connector of the radio 4.3 to the connector of additional equipment C302 (pins V, W, X, Y), and the power connector of the amplifier 4.1 (pin H).


But the on-board computer is already connected to pin H. Therefore, we remove it, connect the amplifier 4.1 in its place, and connect the on-board computer connector to the parallel corresponding connector of the amplifier 4.2.


The speed signal connector 3 is connected to the green connector of the instrument panel.


Connector 1 of the radio and connector of power control of the electric antenna 2 are brought to the radio.


We lay the connectors of the front speakers to the niches and connect the blue connectors 5.3 and 6.3 to the door wiring to the tweeters. The other two connectors are connected to the speakers.


Similarly on the right side.
Connector 7 is output to the central console, to the phone - I will write about this in a separate topic.
We lay the wiring along the left threshold to the rear part, and bring out the connectors of the rear speakers 8 and 9. As I already said, I have wiring from the Touring, so I will have to install adapters-extensions. At least on the left side for sure.





We pull the wiring into the trunk. Apparently, the Touring has a special contact for "mass", which the sedan does not have. Therefore, in order not to extend the wire to the G300 terminal, I had to screw terminal 10 into the factory hole on the body bracket.


Audio amplifier jack 11 is taken out for the left loop of the trunk - the amplifier will be installed there.


I will write about the installation of speakers, radio and amplifier in the second part, when the interior is already assembled.

The next entry will be about an electric antenna or a telephone.

[The_Glory]

i really enjoy reading and watching you build this car! lots of knowledge that I myself have also been able to use from your thread.

Can't wait to see more posts from you!

Thanks, I'm glad you found it interesting and useful.
Unfortunately, now I don't have enough time to write, but I will try to write about everything that has already been done. There is some news ;)