E30 from Ukraine - "Shadow of Intelligence"

[The_Glory]

Assembly_171_Cooling system. (part 2)

It is logical that to mount the M40 radiator, you need to use the mounting parts for the M40. But I nuances.
First, due to the inaccuracy in the ETK, my carelessness, and confusion between the M20 and M40 parts, I bought the wrong shield I needed. The shield should cover the space on the left between the body and the radiator - here:


The M20 shield for the air conditioner (17 11 1 712 829) costs $60 - not adequate, for a piece of plastic, in my opinion. Without an air conditioner, this space is closed with a standard diffuser (51 71 1 939 304).






So at first I wanted to cut it out of the diffuser. Then I noticed in the M40 section a shield (17 11 1 712 828) - for the air conditioner. And its price of $15 is more or less a normal price for a piece of plastic. I ordered it. Two weeks later, this arrived.




I tried it on the radiator and only then did I realize that I needed a tropical climate shield for the M40, not an air conditioner! And this is the same M20 shield for the air conditioner (17 11 1 712 829) for $60 :) And this one does not fit at all! The trick failed! )))


I already wanted to return to the variant of cutting from the diffuser...


And then he twisted that shield (17 11 1 712 828) in his hands...




I looked at the photo of the shield (17 11 1 712 829) on the Internet...


And I thought - I have never cut new original BMW parts - it's time to start! )))


This is how a shield (17 11 1 712 828) for $15 turns into a shield (17 11 1 712 829) for $60 in this, not tricky, way! :)




A good start-up for business - bought for $15, cut, - sold for $60! ))) It's a pity that there are not many potential buyers... ))) Sometimes you can only joke about the pricing of BMW parts! :) But let's get back to the assembly.


Fan Shroud




Part #1 - fan casing (17 11 1 719 249) - 1 pc. Here again is a nuance. The fan shroud for the M40 takes up half the space under the hood! :) Therefore, of course, for the M20, it will not physically fit between the engine and the radiator.
Width-wise, my old shroud (17 11 1 712 846) was fine, but I wasn't sure if it would fit properly on the impeller, so I left it for now, even though it's broken at the bottom. Later I will buy an M20 casing (17 11 1 712 845) for the air conditioner.
Part #2 - clip (17 11 1 712 963) - 2 pcs.

Part #3 - radiator bracket A=30MM (17 11 1 712 347) - 1 pc. The left lower radiator support for the air conditioner.

Part #4 - radiator bracket 10MM (17 11 1 178 449) - 1 pc. The right lower support of the radiator.
Part No. 5 - rubber buffer (17 11 1 178 4120 - 2 pcs.

The right support is the same for all radiators. The left support depends on the width of the radiator and is of several types. In the photo, the left supports for M20 and M40 radiators, and the right standard support. You can also get confused here...


Part No. 6 - fastening (17 11 1 709 347) - 1 pc. Upper mounting of the radiator.
Part No. 7 - rubber buffer (17 11 1 150 984) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 8 - self-tapping screw ST6.3X22 (17 11 1 712 1420 - 2 pcs.

Part No. 9 - shield (17 11 1 712 829) - 1 pc. He is in his first life (17 11 1 712 828) :)
Part No. 10 - clip D=7.5MM (51 48 1 915 964) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 11 - profile pad L=483MM (17 11 1 719 321) - 1 pc. Rubber seal.


We put the lower buffers on the legs of the radiator.




It is more convenient to install the radiator without a cover.
The lower fastening of the casing


Upper fastening of the casing


We put the rubber gasket (No. 11) on the shield (No. 9).


But we fix the shield with two clips on the body. We snap the left lower support into a special bracket on the body.


We snap the right lower support into a special bracket on the body.


We install the radiator with buffers on the lower supports, align it, and screw the upper and lower hoses to the left.


We connect the connector to the coolant level sensor and fix the wiring with a clip.


We screw the lower hose to the right and connect the connector to the temperature sensor.


We install the upper rubber buffers on the bracket, press the radiator with them and fasten with two self-tapping screws through special holes in the body.


We install the casing in the lower fasteners and fix it with clips in the upper fasteners. But here again something is not clear - the clips are short and are not fixed in the holes.


Maybe it's a matter of a non-original radiator... When replacing the casing, I'll pick up some other clips, but for now I fixed it with ties.
The radiator is installed.




Put the air filter housing and other parts that were removed back in place. Almost everything is installed under the hood.




Almost everything...


It remains to install fuel injectors and exhaust manifolds.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_171_Cooling system. (part 1)

Finally, I selected and waited for the radiator, then you can proceed to the ETK section
Cooling system

I have already written about the installation of the oil cooler before. Therefore, now we will talk about the main engine cooling system.
But I remind you that my cooling system is a little not standard, but made by analogy with the BMW E34 cooling system with the M20 engine. Its main difference from the standard system is a radiator with a built-in expansion tank. In my opinion, it has a more aesthetic appearance, without additional hoses and an early archaic expansion tank and radiator. A restyle tank and radiator could be installed, but as you have already seen, I have an automatic oil fill tank installed in its place. Therefore, I decided to leave everything as it was, only to replace the radiator with a larger one for the air conditioner.
Therefore, I do not consider the following ETK sections for cars up to 87.
Water cooling radiator, fan shroud


Although I accidentally ordered one part for mounting this radiator.


Expansion tank


Also I am not looking at the ETK section
Additional electric fan


I have an air conditioner installed that uses a similar electric fan attached to the air conditioner condenser. I have already written about this before. Accordingly, additional brackets for mounting the electric fan are not used in my case.

So, since my cooling system is not standard, and I need to choose a radiator with a built-in expansion tank, but of a larger size, for the air conditioner, I started by comparing the sizes of the radiators.
Radiators are of three types in terms of size, in order of increase - standard, for air conditioning, and for tropical countries.
Early radiators for cars up to 87 do not suit me at all in terms of hose placement.
The radiators for the post-'87 cars don't work for me because they all came with a separate expansion tank for the M20 engine.
Therefore, I considered them purely theoretically, to compare their area.

Water cooling radiator, fan shroud


Although some fastening details are suitable, but more on them later.

The radiators for the BMW E34 with the M20 engine do not suit me, because in the versions for air conditioning and tropical countries they are too wide and physically will not fit in the E30. A standard radiator will fit, but it is too small for an air conditioner.

What is the way out of this situation?
Radiators for BMW E30 with M40 and M42 engines. The variant for tropical countries has a built-in expansion tank and the required width and area.

For the convenience of comparing the sizes and area of radiators, I even made a table - maybe it will be useful to someone too.


It is clearly visible here that the area of the radiator was the largest on early cars. After restyling, it was slightly reduced. A 440x436 mm radiator with an area of 0.192 m2 was installed for the air conditioner according to ETK.
What is interesting and not very clear - for the E34, the area of the radiator is even smaller!
But for tropical countries with M40 and M42 engines, a radiator with a built-in expansion tank of similar dimensions of 440x436 mm and an area of 0.192 m2 was installed. That's exactly what I ordered.
There was still an idea to buy the same radiator, but for an automatic transmission - suddenly one day I want to install an "automatic machine"! ;) The difference is the presence of two additional fittings for automatic transmission oil cooling hoses. But the required radiator was not available, so we had to abandon this idea. Maybe someday I will return to her again... ;)
I chose among analogues, and as it turned out, there are two types of radiator tube connections - mechanical and welded. Radiators with soldered tubes are of higher quality and more reliable. These are the ones that go in the original. So my choice fell on a Nissens radiator with welded tubes for tropical countries with an M40 engine and a manual gearbox.




Soldered tubes:






Number:




The set includes a plug at the bottom of the tank and a drain plug:


Plug for the connection of the temperature sensor for the air conditioner:


Plug for pumping air:



So, the torment of choosing a radiator is behind you - you can start installing everything! :)
Accordingly, we consider everything related to the radiator in the ETK section for M40 and M42 engines.
Expansion tank, water cooling radiator




Part No. 1 - coolant radiator (17 11 1 728 907). For tropical countries. I use the Nissens 60623A analog.
Part #2 - expansion tank (17 11 1 712 835) - 1 pc. Complete with a radiator.
Part #3 - sealing ring D=77.0MM (17 21 1 712 965). - 1 pc. Complete with a radiator.
Part #4 - sealing ring D=14.5MM (17 11 1 712 966). - 1 pc. Complete with a radiator.
Part No. 5 - cover (17 11 1 712 825) - 1 pc. Complete with a radiator.
Part No. 6 - bolt M6X16 (17 11 1 719 057) - 2 pcs. Complete with a radiator.
Part No. 7 - radiator plug 1.4BAR (17 11 1 742 232) - 1 pc. A similar 1.4BAR plug is used for the M20 engine, but with a new number (17 13 7 639 023). Everyone advises to take the original cork.

Part No. 8 - screw for removing air (17 11 1 712 788) - 1 pc. Complete with a radiator.

Part No. 9 - threaded plug (17 11 1 712 816) - 1 pc. Complete with a radiator. Antifreeze drain plug. Blocks the drain pipe.

Part #10 - double thermal switch 91/99CEL (61 31 1 378 073) - 1 pc. For two speed modes of the electric fan of the air conditioner
Part No. 11 - threaded plug M14X1.5 (07 11 9 919 146) - 1 pc. Complete with a radiator.
Part No. 12 - sealing ring A14X18 (07 11 9 963 201) - 1 pc. Complete with a radiator.

Part No. 13 - coolant level sensor in the radiator L= 95MM (61 31 1 384 739) - 1 pc. I use the MEYLE 3148009018 analogue.
Part No. 14 - ring of round cross-section D=19.3X2.4 (61 31 1 361 249) - 1 pc. Complete with a radiator.
Part No. 15 is a plug, for some reason it is not indicated in the ETK, although it is included with the radiator.


So, we install the radiator cap. The screw and its sealing ring were included with the radiator.


We set the temperature sensor to the contents of the cork. The o-ring was included with the radiator, so I wasted buying it separately. Also installed the original ring.


Instead of the lower plug, we install a coolant level sensor. The sealing ring was in the plug. In addition, the same ring is also included in the sensor kit. I again bought it separately for nothing - now there will be as many as two spare rings.








The radiator is ready for installation.




Next, about the details for its fastening.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_170_Oil Level Matic automatic oil filling system

There is some delay with the fastening of the sill plates, so I will write about them a little later so as not to return to them later.

And now, since the wings are already installed, you can install one interesting thing. This is an "aftermarket" option for BMW E23, E28 and E30 - the Oil Level Matic automatic oil filling system. It was available mainly in France and Austria. The shape of the tank was different for each body. There were two types - for cars without an on-board control system, and for cars with an on-board control system. In the first version, the system has a special oil dipstick with a built-in oil level sensor. In the second option, the system uses the standard oil level sensor of the on-board control system.
So I have a kit for an E30 with on board control system.


The kit includes a plastic tank for three liters of lubricant, a pump, a hose, a special oil dipstick, an ECU and wiring.
A tank with a lid and an oil level dipstick in it.






Pump, hose and dipstick.


ECU with wiring.


The wiring was designed for cars with Jetronic, where the ignition coil is near the air filter, and was also cut off, so I had to make an extension cord with a connector.


The tank is screwed together with the left wing. The wings are already installed. We close the joint of the wing with the body with body sealant (later, I will probably paint it, as it was from the factory). It is important to seal the joint of the body rib and wing with sealant so that it does not get under the hood.


We install side seals. The left seal needs to be cut in the places where the tank is attached.


The same on the right side.




Everything is ready to install the Oil Level Matic. I start by connecting the wiring. I drew the diagram directly on the ETM diagram.


We connect the power supply to the "+15" contact of the ignition coil.


We lay the wiring together with the motor wiring along the motor shield and the left wing to the oil level sensor. I made an additional connector on the motor wiring from the "dynamic" level wire.


We connect it and fix the wiring in clips. For this, it was necessary to remove the air filter housing.



We screw the mass terminal behind the left headlight at point G104 and connect the wiring to the ECU.


The ECU snaps into a special niche at the bottom of the tank. On the bottom of the tank, I glued strips of anti-squeak.


The tank is screwed together with the wing with two self-tapping screws.


We install the pump (in the same way as in the tank of the washer), connect the wiring and hose to it.


We replace the standard oil dipstick with a special one.


The oil level marks on them match (I haven't replaced the oil yet).


Connect the hose to the dipstick.


We fix it with a tape with "Velcro" to other hoses.


The Oil Level Matic automatic oil filling system is installed.


Briefly about the principle of its work.
The tank contains three liters of engine oil. When the oil level in the engine drops to a critical level, the oil level lamp lights up on the standard panel of the on-board control system. The timer of the ECU Oil Level Matic starts counting down the time, and if the lamp does not go out for a while, the ECU turns on the pump and, also according to the timer, adds oil through the oil dipstick tube for 10-15 seconds. After which it turns off. That is, the system works even while the car is moving.
The first type of this system works from its own sensor on the dipstick, and measures the oil level only after the car is stopped and the ignition is turned off. Obviously, the second type has an advantage, because it can work continuously, while moving.
But there is one nuance. The regular oil level sensor, due to its design features, has a certain "inertia". That is, the lamp does not go out immediately after the oil level is restored - the sensor needs some time to measure the oil level. And when the battery is disconnected for a long period of time, this lamp lights up in any case, regardless of the actual oil level. Therefore, in this case, the Oil Level Matic will give you another level of lubrication on top! :) I've had this happen twice already - I had to drain the excess oil afterwards! :)) Also, when disconnecting the battery, it is better to immediately disconnect the Oil Level Matic pump ;) And after connecting the battery, wait until the oil level lamp goes out, and only then connect the pump.
Such an interesting thing! ;)

[The_Glory]

Assembly_169_Installation of BBS body kit (part 2) - door overlays

Let's go back to body clearances. As I already said, after trying on the linings on the doors, it became clear that when opening all the doors, the linings will rub against the doors and wings. Well, you need to set all the gaps again, and increase them a little. But first you need to install the overlays on the door. They are glued to the body polyurethane sealant. I used APP PU50 sealant. One balloon was enough.
A set of door linings BBS.


Four pieces per door.
Front.




Rear




Two on the front wings.




Two on the rear arches.




So, the essence of the problem turned out to be not so much in small gaps, but in the fact that the lining rested against the decorative moldings and did not fit snugly against the door. Therefore, I had to remove all the moldings.


After that, the pads fell into place and were not rubbed. We degrease the door and glue the overlay. It is important not to seal the drainage channels of the overlays. Fix with masking tape.








done








But, just in case, we increased the gaps by 0.5-1 mm.




The front wings were also moved forward by 0.5-1 mm. By the way, here you can see the difference in the shape of the edge of the wings. Although according to ETK they are all under the same number.


We install the wings on top of the sealant.




We set equal gaps, and fix each with seven self-tapping screws.


Later, it will be necessary to apply sealant to the joint of the wing near the windshield.
In the front part, we connect the wing with the apron under the headlight and under the bumper near the wheel arch.


We screw the wing rib from the inside with two self-tapping screws to the body brackets near the door hinges.
From above.


And from below


We fasten the bottom of the wing with two self-tapping screws.


Now the front drain of the hatch goes here - it is more logical than in the threshold, as it was at the factory.


We re-expose the hood, and we get practically the same and equal gaps on the body.
Left side.








Right side.








This time, the day of painstaking work was not in vain! :)
Maybe not all the clearances on the body are perfect, but in general it turned out pretty decent, in my opinion.


All doors open normally, nothing rubs.
But everything can't be that simple! :)) Now the moldings do not stand, because the edge rests on the glued overlays! I'm going crazy! ))) But that's it, I'll come up with something! ;)

Next, about the threshold overlays.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_168_Installation of body kit BBS (part 1) - rear apron

So - installation of a BBS body kit.
This is a very rare kit for pre-facelift E30s. I started looking for it piece by piece long before the bodywork started. I have been looking for the whole set for about eight years. By the way, I never found a spoiler, although I don't need it. Unless I buy it, just for the set.
And finally, it's time to install it! :)
I'll start again from the back! :) The rear apron took up a lot of space in the garage, so that it wouldn't get in the way and wouldn't scratch it, I installed it at the very beginning of assembling the car. Perhaps you have already noticed him in the photo. Also, I already wrote that I installed stainless steel threaded rivets before painting the car to attach aprons and door sill plates. Therefore, I will use M4 bolts with stainless steel washers and a universal rubber gasket for fastening.


Stainless threaded rivet in the body.


I glued a rubber seal along the contour of the apron.


We insert M4 stainless bolts with washers into the holes.


Six bolts on the rear panel and two bolts on each side in the rear fenders.


Fasten the apron.


done


But it was not possible to do without self-tapping screws! :) The ends of the wheel arches are very narrow, so neither steel nor plastic rivets fit there. By the way, the BBS manufacturer envisages attaching its body kit to self-tapping screws. Cheap, but angry! :)
We fix the apron in the rear arches with two self-tapping screws.


Then I replaced them with black ones so that it would not be noticeable ;)


I covered the self-tapping screws from the inside with a non-hardening bitumen-rubber tape. The car will not be driven in winter, so I think corrosion will not appear there very soon... ;)

[The_Glory]

It really is coming together nicely, glad to see you are still making progress!

thank you, yes, there is progress, albeit very slow...

[roguetoaster]

It really is coming together nicely, glad to see you are still making progress!

[The_Glory]

Assembly_167_ Front Assembly (First Attempt)

So, I install the front fenders and hood. Everything sounds simple, but in fact - almost a whole day of work together with a body builder! Both front doors had to be installed anew. How tired it is!
But as a result, all gaps are equal and minimal in width, as far as possible.













Finished, all was well... But only until I decided to try the BBS cover on the door! I tried it on - and when the door was fully opened, the pad rubbed against the wing! And the back panel was rubbing against the front door. And so on all four doors! Fiasco!
The gaps are too small - you need to increase them - all over again! ))) The coachbuilder felt dizzy from this! ))) A day of painstaking work - in the ass! ))
It was necessary to install those overlays from the very beginning... Well, we are not looking for easy ways! ))) Although, looking ahead, I will say that the problem was not only in small gaps.
I was going to install the thresholds and BBS pads last, but as practice has shown, you need to start there!
So, further about the installation of thresholds and BBS overlays.

P.S.
There is also good news - finally, the radiator has arrived, I am still waiting for its fasteners and shields.
During this time, I did a little work on the exhaust system - there, too, everything turned out to be not as simple as I would like! ) But more on that later.

[The_Glory]

Collection_166. ETK_63_Lights. Installation of headlights and assembly of the front part.

So, finally, you can install headlights.
First, we lay all the wiring harnesses and fix them with clamps under the left headlight. We check all terminals "ground" G104 behind the left headlight. We check the connectors for connecting the wiring of the headlight cleaner and the electric fan.
We fasten the headlight with three self-tapping screws.


We connect all connectors to the headlight.
Blue - position lights.
Yellow - dipped beam.
White - high beam.
We insert the hydraulic corrector tube into the fitting on the drive. Although, it will not work yet.
We connect the connector of the electric drive of the headlight cleaner, and through the special hole in the headlight frame, we pass the hose of the headlight washer nozzle.




The fog light connector will be connected after installing the BBS front apron together with the fog lights.

We put the shield on the corrugation of the air filter, and install the plastic protective shield of the headlights. We fix it with two clips.


The left side is ready.

Let's go to the right side.
We stretch in front of the fan and lay all wiring harnesses and hoses. We fix them with clamps under the right headlight. I used a few more wire holders. We connect the right sound signal.


By the way, the brackets for the headlight cleaner connectors did not match. I don't know why, but there were no suitable holes in the body for them, and the connectors do not reach them. Maybe they are for restyling...

We install the tank for the washing liquid and connect the ECU and three pumps. The headlight washer hose is connected to the rear pump. The other two hoses come out of the hood, so they will be connected after it is installed.




We lay the wiring along the spar and fix it. The wiring to the air conditioner compressor will be connected after it is installed.


We fasten the headlight with three self-tapping screws.


All connectors and hoses of the right headlight are connected similarly to the left headlight.


The plastic protective shield of the headlights must be cut, because it rests on the hose and dryer of the air conditioner. There are factory marks on the shield for this.
Cutout for the headlight washer hose.


Cutout for air conditioning dryer.


Cutout for air conditioner hose.


It is interesting that on the front side of the shield there are also similar factory marks, but their outline is larger. Maybe it's for different configurations...
Cutout for the headlight washer hose.


Cutout for air conditioning dryer.


Cutout for air conditioner hose.


I cut along a smaller outline on the inside of the shield. The photo shows the difference with the outline on the front side.


Then I had to cut a little more under the dryer, because it rested. Apparently, the analogue is slightly larger in size than the original.

We install a plastic protective shield for the headlights. We fix it with two clips.


Everything is installed on the right.




I wrote about the installation of the front apron a long time ago in the corresponding section. But, I will repeat, since the apron was removed for convenience.


We insert the insert plates into special holes in the body - under the headlights and under the towing loops.


We fasten the apron with two self-tapping screws on each side.




The apron is installed. We pass the wiring with turn signal connectors through special holes.




We insert rubber pads on the towing loops.


Wire harnesses and hoses are tightly fixed with clamps all over the apron. The photo shows why additional cutouts for the air conditioner are made in the apron - with them, the blowing of the condenser and radiator is much better.


In my case, there is a lot of wiring, so the harnesses pass very close to the fan - you need to fasten them well so that they do not rub against the impeller.


The front apron is installed.


Now you can install the wings, the hood, and set the gaps on them.

P.S.
And for now, just out of curiosity, I put on the grilles and nostrils - it seems that everything is more or less even! ;)





A cute little face! :)

[The_Glory]

Collection_165. ETK_64_Heating and air conditioning. (part 11) Condenser, fan.

Finally, it came to installing the fan and condenser.
On cars without air conditioning, a plastic diffuser is installed in front of the radiator. It comes in several types, depending on the model and year of manufacture. But, if there is an air conditioner, it is not installed, since there is a fan and a condenser in its place. In this case, only the side shields are installed.
So, first you need to install the fan side shields. They are shown in ETK in the body section - I already mentioned them then, but at that time I had not yet bought them. Now I have them. Now we are talking only about them.
Front body parts




Part No. 6 - left air duct (51 71 1 937 973) - 1 pc. For cars up to the year 87.
Part No. 7 - right air duct (51 71 1 937 974) - 1 pc. For cars up to the year 87.
Part No. 8 - rivet with spacer sleeve D=7.5MM (51 48 1 915 964) - 4 pcs.

The same shields in ETK are also shown in the body equipment section, where I also mentioned them.
Air Duct




Part No. 6 - right air duct (51 71 1 937 974) - 1 pc. For cars up to the year 87.
Part No. 7 - left air duct (51 71 1 937 973) - 1 pc. For cars up to the year 87.
Part No. 11 - rivet with spacer sleeve D=7.5MM (51 48 1 915 964) - 4 pcs.

There is an unexpected nuance with the fastening. Back then, I ordered original clips D=7.5MM (51 48 1 915 964), I had to take the whole package, although only 4 pieces are needed.




And these clips, surprisingly, did not fit! The holes in the body are larger than the clips - 8 mm in diameter, and the clips did not hold the shields at all.
I had to buy larger universal clips for 8 mm holes.


In the photo, universal ones are on top, original ones are on the bottom.


The shields are wound on top of the body bracket and fixed with two clips each.
Install the right shield.


We install the left shield.


We lay all the wiring through the cutout in the left shield and through the hole in the right shield.


Now you can install the fan and condenser.
Condenser, fan




Part #1 - capacitor R12/R134A (64 53 8 391 509) - 1 pc. I use an analogue of Behr Mahle (AC159000S)

Part No. 2 (No. 3+No. 4) - additional fan (64 54 1 376 973) - 1 pc. I use the original BOSCH fan.

Part #3 - BOSCH impeller (17 40 1 362 100) - 1 pc. Impeller with 5 blades.
Part #4 - BOSCH fan housing (17 40 1 371 261) - 1 pc.
Part No. 5 - BOSCH resistor (17 40 1 373 177) - 1 pc. I use a GM analog (94812213) - I wrote about it in a previous post.

Part #6 - double thermal switch 91/99CEL (61 31 1 378 073) - 1 pc. Instead of two separate thermal switches, I use a double one.
Part No. 7 - sealing ring A14X20-VF (07 11 9 963 227) - 1 pc.

Part No. 8 - rubber cushion (17 11 1 150 984) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 9 - rivet with spacer sleeve (17 11 1 150 983) - 2 pcs. Not used.
Part No. 10 - sheet nut (16 11 1 152 613) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 11 - self-tapping screw ST6.3X19 (07 11 9 916 9700 - 2 pcs.

Part #12 - nameplate "Klimaanlage" 1075G (64 50 1 380 982) - 1 pc. "Freon R12" sticker - I will glue it later, the whole set together.

Part No. 13 - rubber sleeve (17 40 1 362 128) - 3 pcs.
Part No. 14 - M5 bolt (17 40 1 354 522) - 3 pcs.
Part No. 15 - spacer washer (17 40 1 354 523) - 3 pcs.
Part No. 16 - spring ring B5 (07 11 9 933 060) - 3 pcs.
Part No. 17 - M5 nut (07 11 9 922 038) - 3 pcs.


The double thermal switch (#6) on 3 contacts and its sealing ring (#7) will be installed in the main radiator, so I will write about them later.




As I already said, there are no lower rubber pads on the new capacitor. They are in good condition on my old capacitor, and I didn't have time to wait for a new one, so I just glued them onto the new capacitor.
By the way, according to ETK, they are fixed with clips (#9), but neither the old original nor the new capacitors have holes for them. There are also no holes in the pillows - they were glued. Apparently, clips were used on earlier versions.


So, we glue two lower pillows (#8) and insert three rubber bushings (#13) into the brackets.


We screw the fan with three bolts, through washers and rubber bushings to the condenser in this position.


We remove the plugs from the flanges. By the way, the condenser was not under high pressure - probably this is a "guarantee" of tightness.
Ready to install.


We insert sheet nuts into special holes on the body. We insert a fan with a condenser from the inside of the body.


We level it so that it rests on the bottom with pillows in the body, and fasten it with two self-tapping screws.




From above, there is not a large gap to the body.


From below, the fan housing becomes very tight to the oil cooler tube.


We pass the hoses through the hole in the shield and screw them to the flanges with new sealing rings. The tube had to be bent a little. It is necessary to tighten very carefully - the fastening of the flanges on the Chinese capacitor is not very reliable...


Now you can fully connect and fix the dehumidifier - we screw the tube, hose and sensor to it. The tube had to be bent a little.


Here again there is a nuance of the Chinese analogue of the dryer (Behr Mahle) - instead of three fasteners, it has only two, but only one fits into the factory clips on the body. The second does not match. Well, that's it... he'll behave normally anyway, but...


The hose that goes to the compressor is of two types - with a short metal tube or with a long one. I have a long one. Therefore, it was necessary to replace the hose clamp with a smaller one. Maybe it depends on the type of compressor. I will install the compressor later, then I will look, maybe I will have to change the hose... we will see...
The hose had scuff marks on the rib of the spar, so I installed a rubber pad on the rib - the same as the one on the left spar under the fuel hose. I think it will not be superfluous.


Connect the fan wiring connector to the air conditioner wiring under the left headlight.


The fan and condenser are installed and connected.

Now you can finish assembling the front part of the car.

[The_Glory]

Collection_165. ETK_64_Heating and air conditioning. (part 11) Condenser, fan.

The story of how I chose a capacitor.

The air conditioner, of course, included the old original condenser. Everyone recommends immediately replacing it with a new one. I was choosing between Nissens and Behr Mahle. But I ordered Behr Mahle - because in the photo it was exactly the same as the original.


But a miracle did not happen, and the usual "new" Chinese radiator arrived! Exactly the same as Nissens, only a little more expensive. :)


But with the nameplate Behr Mahle)


I didn't really like it for some reason... So, just in case, I decided to check the old radiator. I screwed on the hoses, with a plug and a valve.


And pumped up 6 atmospheres. It was scary to pump more so that the bolt wouldn't fly out! ) And even more than eight, the compressor still does not pump.


I put it in water, held it for a while - it holds the pressure, there are no bubbles! ) That is, it is intact and sealed.


Let's compare. The original one is wider in terms of "honeycombs" - 42x33 cm, against 37x33 cm in the new one.




The old one is also much larger in thickness.


Their construction is completely different. In the old one, two tubes run parallel in a "snake" across the entire plane of the radiator. And in the new one, at first it seemed to me that the horizontal thin tubes were simply all parallel - what a fool! ))


But then I looked more closely and noticed that the vertical side tubes have baffles.




The liquid also circulates in a "snake", but through several tubes in parallel (11-9-7-5). In the photo, I showed the circulation diagram.


People say that with such a scheme, circulation and heat transfer are even better than with the scheme of the old radiator. I want to believe that it is so... But I decided to install a new Chinese radiator after all! )
The upper mounts were poorly riveted, so they had to be drilled and re-riveted. The lower mount is normal, but there were no rubber pads on it - you need to glue them from the old radiator, or order new original ones.




I have already primed and painted the fasteners so that they do not look homemade, from roofing tin) I also cleaned and painted the old radiator.




Don't say anything, but the old original radiator looks better and more reliable!...




Especially the fastening of pipe fittings.






I installed the fasteners and put them in the box - there will be a spare.


Well, the new radiator, with a newly riveted and painted fastener, is ready for installation.










By the way, the Chinese did not completely paint the radiator itself, we had to repaint it for them...
Well, I hope it will serve better than it looks...
Next, about the installation of the fan and condenser.

[The_Glory]

Collection_165. ETK_64_Heating and air conditioning. (part 11) Condenser, fan.

The story of how I did assemble the fan.

So, I remind you of the beginning of the story)
I didn't disassemble the first fan correctly, and now I can't put it back together because the impeller didn't come off.
I broke the second fan because the impeller did not come off.
The third fan already had a broken impeller, but it does not come off.
The fourth fan worked, but the bearing needs to be replaced. To do this, you need to remove the impeller... )

So, with determination, I unscrewed the nut... and the impeller came off with absolutely no effort! Just like most videos on YouTube! )) I don't know why I was unlucky three times, but the fourth time everything turned out well! ) Finally, the fan is successfully completely disassembled!


There was almost no corrosion inside, only dust and dirt.


The bearing is riveted in the top cover. We drill four rivets and remove the bearing.


Next, traditionally - cleaning, washing, sanding, painting.


The magnets hold very well on the case, so I did not remove them. "Brushes" are also in good condition, not worn.


By the way, compared to an early similar fan, there are not significant differences - the magnets are fixed differently, and there are two capacitors instead of one.


On the early wiring, the connector has flat contacts, and on the late wiring - with round ones.


On the early fan, the wiring is much shorter, since the connector is fixed directly on the fan housing.


There was no point in removing the rotor from the axis, I just cleaned it.




I painted the impeller because it was very worn. The blades on it are not located symmetrically. I read somewhere that this was done to reduce the noise from them. But I'm not sure if that's really the case.


By the way, does anyone know why the letters of the English alphabet are drawn on it in a circle?


The impeller is simply tightly seated on the axis with a bushing, and on top is locked with a washer under the nut. I do not understand why it is not removed on the first fan. Is the sleeve corrosion really that bad?




The aluminum body is sandblasted and painted. There is also an unclear point about it - in the photo you can see a cutout on the rear part of the rim of the case. I don't understand what he is for either.


There is a cutout on top - on the E30, nothing prevents him there. Is it possible that on other models something interferes or rests there...


I bought a new resistor - a similar one, produced by GM. With the GM part number (94812213), it is three times cheaper than the exact same Bosch resistor (3134503020), or four times cheaper than the same Bosch one ordered with the original BMW part number (17401373177).


The design and resistance (0.6 Ohm) are exactly the same. The only difference is one mounting hole instead of two. If desired, you can drill, but it is fixed perfectly anyway. I don't think it's worth paying more! ;)




I drilled holes for rivets with a diameter of 3 mm in the lid.


New bearing SKF 6001. They say that there are many Chinese fakes, so I ordered a bearing of European manufacture - France.




The old factory bearing was a NSK 6001. It didn't seize, but it was already completely dry, so it was very noisy.


So, tightly insert the bearing into the cover.


But we rivet with four 3x8 mm rivets. The rivets should not protrude too much so as not to catch the rotor and the impeller.




Lubricate the axis and bushing with grease, treat all contacts with a special spray, and wash the remains with anti-silicone.


We install the rotor.


We install a cover with a bearing on the axle and bolts. It is important to install the cover with the right side - riveted washer to the mount. Because I messed up at first and the cover jammed the rotor... )
Another nuance - there is one hole in the engine housing - it looks like a drain. Therefore, we put the engine on the body with this hole facing down.


In such a position.


We fasten the engine with three nuts. We fix the wiring with ties in the places provided for this.


Lubricate the sleeve (so that it can be removed again later, if necessary), and install the impeller.


We fix the position of the impeller on the axis so that the locking washer falls into the grooves on the impeller. We tighten the nut - LEFT thread! Lock the nut with one "eye" of the washer.


We install and connect a resistor to the wiring terminals. We fix the wiring with ties in the places provided for this.




We snap the connector body onto the foam.


The bracket on the fan housing is used to fix the connector only on the early wiring. In this case, it is not used.


The fan is ready for installation.




Checked - works at both speeds, almost silently.

I will try to collect my other fans later. At least one. Or maybe it will be possible to collect one more from two.
Next is the capacitor.

[The_Glory]

Collection_165. ETK_64_Heating and air conditioning. (part 11) Condenser, fan.

The story of how I searched for and broke fans.

So, I return again to the installation of the parts of the air conditioner, namely - the condenser and the fan. I'll start with the fan.
The air conditioner included such a fan - 7 blades, Canadian manufacturer Power Motion.
The condition is unknown, the appearance is so-so...








The first check showed that it was not working.
Another type of fan was available for the E30 - with 5 blades, made by the German manufacturer Bosch. They are more common on earlier cars. I read somewhere that they are more reliable and easier to repair. Now I can say that this is not so - there is no fundamental difference between them, except for the different design of the impeller and the number of blades on it. But then I decided to look for a Bosch fan, and surprisingly, I found it quite quickly. According to the seller - "it was working".... Its appearance did not inspire much hope either, but I still bought it.




It turned out that it was from a restyling car, and had a different connector, with flat contacts. But this is not a problem. And the problem is that it did not work at all! :)
Well, what! Now I have both types of fans and both are not working! :) Decided to repair Bosch - more repairable, yes! ))
The impeller didn't want to come off the axle, so I unscrewed the three nuts on the back side and thus "through the ass" disassembled it! It was a mistake.
The "brushes" were stuck in it due to dirt, so it did not work. Cleaned the brushes, sanded and painted the body.


The magnets did not hold well, the insulation was almost completely peeled off. I cut the insulation from the same material, glued and installed the magnets in the case.




I wanted to replace the bearing, but the impeller sits dead on the rotor axis and does not want to come off!


When trying to knock out the axle, I even slightly dislodged the thread... Now the nut does not tighten. By the way, there is a left thread!


I decided to assemble it just like that, without replacing the bearing. Painted the impeller, and then my mistake caught up with me. With the impeller, there is no access to the bolt heads to lock them and screw the motor to the fan housing!


No matter how hard I tried, it was in vain, because it was impossible to insert the bolts into the holes and fix them in order to tighten the nuts. Fiasco! ) It would be correct to first remove the impeller, and then disassemble the motor. And then collect in the reverse order. Now I know it! ;)
I put everything in a box and went to look for fans in a flea market again! )) Found, but from E34. I looked at ETK - there they say that they are the same for E30, E32, E34. OK, I'll take it!


I check - it works! But only at the second (maximum) speed. The resistor does not work. Yes, that's just a trifle!... I put it in the same box and put it off for "later". Later, in a flea market, I saw another identical fan from an E34. I bought it - there will be a spare! ;)




It has no resistor at all, so it also works only at maximum speed and the bearing hums a lot. I gladly put it in the same box and put it away again for "later"! :)

And now "then" has come! :) I took everything out of the box, put it on the table... And what do I see!? They are different in diameter! )


For E30, the diameter is 38 cm


For E34, the diameter is 41 cm


And ETK didn't tell me anything about it! ))) It was not necessary to trust her! )
Well, hope dies last...let's try it on...
First the fan for the E30


From above it becomes almost close to the body


From below, it becomes very tight between the body and the oil cooler


Now the fan for the E34
It does not fit at all from the top


If inserted from above, the oil radiator interferes.


Without the oil cooler, maybe it would fit if you redo the mounts for it. But this is not my option. Again a fiasco! Even double! ))

I remember my very first fan from the kit. :)
As it turned out, the problem was in the wiring and the resistor. Repaired the wiring, bought a new resistor, cleaned everything.


I check - it works, but only at maximum speed, and with a very strong crackle and crunch. Even with a new resistor, the first speed does not work, the resistor instantly heats up like an iron! I understand that it will not work like this for a long time, or the car will burn down.
Sorted it out. Well, how did I take it apart... broke the hell out of it!


Here, too, the impeller was not removed from the rotor axis. I had to knock it out with a hammer. I tried to beat carefully, but as a result - a cracked impeller


Broken rotor


Broken "brush" housing


The problem was that due to corrosion, the magnets fell away from the housing, rotated together with the rotor and jammed it.




And again I go to look for fans in a flea market! )))) Now only with a diameter of 38 cm)
Although I am lucky in the search! )) Found a fan for E30, again, according to the seller - "it was working" :) I bought it.


And still working! Of course, only at maximum speed. And the bearing hums. The resistor does not work.



And here it just farted again! )) A friend gave his old fan as a gift - exactly the same as the one I broke. But he is also already broken. :) The impeller is broken, but the motor works.


The resistor does not work - I'm already used to it! :) By the way, the resistor here is not the same as on the previous ones.


Took both! )


I now have four fans for the E30! And two more for E34)


I did not disassemble the first one correctly, restored it a little, but now I cannot assemble it.


I broke the second one... )


The third one was already broken... ))


The fourth works, but needs repair... I'm already afraid to touch it!... )))


But, "you don't go to the forest to be afraid of wolves!" (c) :)))
Next will be...

P.S.
From my now extensive experience, the main causes of fan failure are:
1. Resistor burned out, works only at maximum speed. Probably so in the majority. I have all six of them.
2. The bearing hums, over time it can jam. The bearing is no longer lubricated from old age or from dirt. Probably also in the majority.
3. Magnets fell off due to corrosion. Loud noise and crackling when working. Can jam.
4. The "brushes" got jammed from dirt. Doesn't work at all.
5. Corrosion of terminals or wires. Doesn't work at all.

[The_Glory]

Collection_164. ETK_61_Details of the headlight washer system

Let's go back to the ETK section
General electrical equipment of the car

Headlight washers are a fairly rare option for the E30. It was not available for the US market at all, no wonder. But it was installed in the basic configuration on European all-wheel drive models.

Headlight cleaner drives are located in the unit
Headlight washer system parts








Part #1 - left (61 63 1 370 895) and right (61 63 1 370 896) windshield wiper motor - 2 pcs.
Part #2 - fasteners (61 63 1 370 8940 - 2 pcs.
Part #3 - bolt with washer M6X16 (07 11 9 904 5240 - 4 pcs.
Part #4 - M6 nut ( 07 12 9 922 705) - 4 pcs.
Part No. 5 - toothed washer J10.5 (07 11 9 936 2270 - 2 pcs.
Part No. 6 - nut (61 63 1 363 530) - 2 pcs. There are six such nuts in total - but two nuts and one bushing are included in the set of each electric motor.
Part No. 7 - rubber cap (61 63 1 359 5310 - 2 pcs.
Part No. 8 - wiper lever left (61 63 1 370 887) and right (61 63 1 370 888) - 2 pcs. Comes complete with plastic brush holders.
Part No. 9 - windshield wiper brush (61 63 1 356 734) - 4 pcs.
Part No. 10 - M5 nut (07 11 9 905 710) - 2 pcs. I also had washers and elastic rings installed.
Part No. 11 - headlight washer system wiring harness (61 12 1 370 730) - 1 pc.
Part No. 12 - bracket D = 13MM (61 13 1 371 0740 - 2 pcs.

Wiring harness




1 - connector of the ECU of the headlight washer system
2 - "male" connector to the main wiring of the washer pump (purple-black, brown-black)
3 - windshield washer pump connector (purple-black, brown-black) - large tank, in place of the standard
4 - connector for the intensive windshield washer pump (purple-black, brown-gray) - small tank
5 - headlight washer pump connector (blue, brown) - large tank, on the back side
6 - connector of the right electric motor
7 - connector of the left electric motor
8 - power connector, to the main wiring
9 - "mass" terminal G104

I installed the wiring a long time ago, along with other harnesses.
My electric drives work normally, without extra sounds and problems, so I decided not to disassemble them just like that. Moreover, it is not very simple - the latches are very tight, so there are chances of breaking them.


So I just washed and cleaned everything thoroughly.
We install the bushings, screw the nut, then install the bracket and screw it with a nut with a toothed washer.


We put a rubber cap on the stem - an important detail that protects the stem from dirt and moisture.


We snap the plastic brush holders onto the lever, then we snap the brush hinges into the holder.
Electric drives and brushes are assembled.


We fix the wires in special hooks on the engine housing. On the machine, connectors are fixed in special holders No. 12.


By the way, about brushes. New headlight brushes are no longer available or are very expensive. My brushes are still in more or less normal condition, but the rubber has become quite hard from old age. My clubmate made a similar rubber profile for the brushes.




But it will be necessary to somehow pick up some kind of elastic plate in it and figure out how to fix it in the hinge. Maybe I'll do it later...

So, we screw the electric drives to the headlight frames. There are special holes for this purpose.


Here you can also see a special hole for the washer hose.


Now the headlights are completely ready for installation.




Brush levers, of course, will be installed after installing the decorative grilles of the radiator.

The next subsection is on the details of headlight washers
Headlight washer system parts




Part No. 1 - tank for washing liquid (61 67 1 370 777) - 1 pc. Tanks differ in shape, size and location for diesel and four-wheel drive models.
Part #2 - windshield washer pump (61 66 1 368 589) - 3 pcs.
Part No. 3 - sealing gasket (61 66 1 365 657) - 3 pcs.

Part No. 4 - washer fluid level sensor (61 31 1 369 263) - 1 pc.
Part No. 5 - rubber sleeve (61 31 1 369 343) - 1 pc.

Part No. 6 - cover of the tank of the intensive washer (61 66 1 369 516) - 1 pc. The cap is white. An earlier cover (61 66 1 373 175) is red with a vent hole.
Part #7 - sign "Intensivreinigung" (51 14 1 885 911) - 1 pc. Plastic tag on the lid, red color.
Part No. 8 - windshield wiper and washer ECU (61 31 1 367 391) - 1 pc.
Part No. 9 - self-tapping screw ST4.8X13 (07 11 9 907 957) - 1 pc.
Part No. 10 - sheet nut (61 67 1 372 655) - 1 pc.
Part No. 11 - windshield washer tank cover (61 66 1 364 807) - 1 pc.
Part No. 12 - tank filter (61 66 1 365 8480 - 1 pc.
Part No. 13 - plastic nut (61 66 1 368 599) - 1 pc. Tank mounting.

Part No. 14 - adapter (61 66 1 355 9390 - 1 pc. Plastic "tee" for headlight washer hoses.
Part No. 15 - valve (61 66 1 380 464) - 2 pcs. Check valve.
Part No. 16 - hose D= 4.6MM (61 66 1 357 388)

Part #17 - nozzle (61 67 1 369 1240 - 2 pcs. I did not remove the nozzles from the decorative grills so as not to break them.

Part No. 18 - wire holder D=16.8MM (12 52 1 276 1470 - 4 pcs.
Part No. 19 - adapter (61 66 1 378 617) - 2 pcs. Not used. Apparently, this is an analogue of detail No. 14.
Part No. 20 - tank (61 67 1 385 254) - 1 pc. Not used. For diesel or four-wheel drive models.
Part No. 21 - filter mesh (61 66 1 371 257) - 1 pc. Not used. For diesel or four-wheel drive models.
Part No. 22 - gasket (16111176910) - 1 pc. Not used. Felt gasket under the tank for diesel models. I had some leftovers on my tank, so I decided to make it like this:


So, we glue the felt gasket on the tank in the places of contact with the body. We install the headlight washer pump from the back of the tank and connect the hose with the adapter and valves.


We install the washer fluid level sensor and the windshield washer pump in standard places. We install a pump for intensive cleaning of the windshield in a small tank. We install and screw the ECU. I broke the ECU mount on the tank, so I made a homemade one. We close the tanks with lids with a tag.


The tank is ready for installation. We lay the hose together with the wiring harnesses. But I will install it a little later, when everything is ready for the assembly of the front part of the car.


In ETK, all parts of the headlight washer system were also available as a single retrofit kit.
Headlight washer system retrofit kit




Part No. 1 - headlight washer system retrofit kit (61 67 1 372 665) - 1 pc. No longer available to order.

Next, about the installation of the radiator and air conditioner fan. After that, it will be possible to finally completely assemble the front part of the car.

[The_Glory]

Collection_163. ETK_63_Headlights (Part 3)

So, we install the headlight adjustment screws.
We start with "deaf" hairpins that stand still. These are the four shortest pins, without threads. We tightly put plastic sleeves on them so that the distance from the sleeve to the edge of the hinge is 25 millimeters.


After 89, these pins were plastic, and made in one piece with a sleeve - something similar to mine was made on a 3D printer. There will be spares.
We insert the pins into the holes in the frame and turn it 90 degrees. For high beam headlights, this is the lower inner hole, and for low beam headlights, it is the upper outer hole.


The sleeve must be fixed in the groove.




View from the inside.


The bushings are turned 90 degrees.




Now install the adjustment screws.
The length of the adjustment screws for the main beam headlights is 84 millimeters - 4 pcs.
The length of the adjusting screws for dipped beam headlights is 77 millimeters - 2 pcs. (without hydraulic corrector - 4 pcs.)


As I already wrote in the first part, plastic bushings and handles are not available for order separately - only assembled with screws. They are unreasonably expensive. You can buy screws by the Hella number, but they are not much cheaper, and judging by the reviews, they are shorter.
So a friend of mine printed these bushings and handles for me on a 3D printer. The knobs are different for the low and high beam screws.
We screw the bushing onto the screw, then slightly heat the edge of the screw and put the handle on tightly.
We insert the screws into the corresponding holes in the frames, diagonally, and turn them 90 degrees. For dipped headlights, insert the screw only into the upper hole. The hydraulic corrector drive will be installed in the lower one.


The sleeve must be fixed in the groove.




View from the inside.


The bushings are turned 90 degrees.




We screw the hydraulic corrector drive into the adapter.


We snap the adapter into special holes in the frame, and fix it with two spacer plastic pins.


Adjustment screws and actuators of the hydraulic corrector are installed.


Align approximately all the screws along the length.


We insert plastic bushings into the "ears" on the headlight housing. Special white bushings for hydraulic corrector. Although, for now, I have installed ordinary white bushings :) I don't understand what the difference is, except for the inadequate price for them... When I restore the corrector or buy a new one, I will order them as well, and so far.


We carefully snap the bushings onto the hinges of the screws.




The same goes for the main beam headlights, but here all three bushings are the same.


We carefully snap the bushings onto the hinges of the screws.




We insert the cartridge with the marker lamp into the housing of the dipped beam headlight, and fix it by turning the lever on the cartridge. We fix the wire on special hooks on the headlight frame.


We snap the connector into a special hole on the headlight frame.


The headlights are fully assembled.


Roughly align them with screws.


We install mounting plates for 6.3 mm self-tapping screws on the body. Three pieces on each side. We screw the headlights into these sockets with self-tapping screws.




From the inside, we snap into the body the retainers and clips for attaching the protective shields of the headlights.




But I will install the headlights and shields a little later. It is necessary to first install the headlight cleaner drives on the headlights.







So, the headlights are ready.
Headlight




Part #1 - double headlight with adjustment left (63 12 1 394 259) and right (63 12 1 394 260) - 2 pcs.


The latest division of ETK on lighting devices:
Rotating flashing light


The rotating flashlight was available in blue, red, and yellow. Well, it's clear that this is an option for special cars, so I don't have it, and I won't have it. :)


Next, about the installation of the headlight cleaner drives.