Assembly_21. ETK_51_Body equipment. (part 1) Soundproofing
Further assembly will be in the ETK section ЕТК_31_Оснащение кузова
I will start almost from the very end of this section - Soundproofing
This includes vibration isolation and noise isolation of the cabin. In fact, it had to be done even earlier, since at the factory the vibration insulation was glued before the body was painted, and the noise insulation was installed before the steering column was installed. I deliberately glued the vibration insulation after painting - it seems to me that this way the metal of the bottom will be better protected from corrosion under it. And the steering column had to be installed earlier so that the car could be transported to the painter. And anyway, the previous owner cut the sound insulation so that it could be removed without removing the steering column. So, I installed it like that, then glued it. But it is correct to install the sound insulation of the motor shield and torpedo BEFORE installing the steering column and the cardan rail.
I started with vibration isolation of the bottom. In the diagram, this is part No. 13 (51 48 8 165 271) - it is a sheet 1160X700MM. It can be ordered in the original, but its price is too high, in my opinion. Therefore, I bought a similar material and much cheaper - StP Vizomat 3.5 mm, 5 sheets 530x750 mm.
You also need a special roller for gluing sheets and an industrial fan heater for heating. Cleaned and degreased the surfaces.
In advance, based on photos on the Internet and prints of old vibration insulation, I drew and printed paper templates.
After several try-ons and adjustments, I received the exact patterns of the patterns, as it was at the factory. Photos of this process and templates are lost somewhere, but I will post the template files in .pdf format later.
Next, heat the pattern with a fan heater and tightly roll it with a roller. Photo of the finished result.
Right side:
Rear seat:
Left side:
General appearance:
By the way, does anyone know why the insulation in the rear part was so strangely glued from the factory? It is not symmetrical, but the left is shifted forward, and the right is shifted back.
As you can see, factory vibration insulation remained on the gearbox tunnel, which was painted over.
For a more aesthetic look, I decided to make it black as well. It is very difficult to wash off the paint, so I just painted it black and then sanded it down. The same texture turned out - it looks much more beautiful this way.
The vibration isolation of all doors and the spare wheel niche remained factory. It is in excellent condition.
Next, we proceed to sound insulation of the rear roof racks - No. 7 on the diagram. They are no longer available to order, so I selected the most similar material for them in the "car audio" store. Based on the old prints, I made a template and cut it out.
By the way, the racks of 4-door cars are similar to 2-door cars, as they also have cutouts for installing side window handles that open.
Prepared the surface and glued.
Sound insulation of the roof No. 3 and No. 4 is used only on cars without a sunroof, so we skip it. For cars with a sunroof, it is different, and will be shown in the corresponding section on the sunroof.
At this point, we complete the insulation that is glued, and move on to the insulation that is attached with various clips. In the diagram, this is part #1, consisting of three parts (left 51 48 1 916 443, right 51 48 1 962 048, middle 51 48 1 916 442) and #2(51 48 1 906 393).
For convenience, I made a table on their fastening with the numbers and number of clips, since it is not specified in the ETK.
I also added the clips and nuts on the motor shield cover to the table.
I do not pretend to be the truth, I did it simply according to logic - where there is wiring, I put it with lugs where there is no wiring, ordinary ones. Although clips and nuts are interchangeable. I replaced a few if available, it is not critical. I did not use nuts #10 for a screwdriver, as they are then very difficult to unscrew.
On most cars, this insulation has long since turned to ash, or has been replaced with modern materials. But I was lucky to find it in pretty good condition. And the left and right parts are completely new.
Let's start with the salon. I will repeat again - IMPORTANT - sound insulation must be installed BEFORE installing the steering column and hood cable. Otherwise, it will have to be cut. I did not take this into account, so I had to cut it, and then sew it to the right of the column, and remove the cable.
The left side - here you can see where the clips are placed.
The right side - here you can see where the clips are placed.
It will also be fixed with the glove box bar on the bottom by three studs when it is installed.
Installed
Next, we move to the engine compartment.
The left side - here you can see where the clips are placed.
Again, an important nuance - the insulation must be installed BEFORE installing the hood cable. I had to remove it.
The right side - here you can see where the clips are placed.
Again, an important nuance - the insulation must be installed BEFORE installing the battery cable. I did everything right here.
The middle part - here you can see where the clips are placed.
In the upper part, three clips for the brake tube are placed - I will write about this later in the corresponding section.
There are even more nuances here - the insulation must be installed BEFORE installing the steering column with cardan shaft, vacuum brake booster, fuel, brake pipes, clutch hoses and interior heater radiator hoses.
Installed.
There are two more details on the diagram - No. 5 and No. 6. This is sound insulation of the floor. On pre-restyling cars, it was separate from the carpet. I doubt that I will find it in better condition than mine, so I will restore mine to normal condition. I will install it after all the wiring is laid, so I will write about it later.
Further assembly will be in the ETK section ЕТК_31_Оснащение кузова
I will start almost from the very end of this section - Soundproofing
This includes vibration isolation and noise isolation of the cabin. In fact, it had to be done even earlier, since at the factory the vibration insulation was glued before the body was painted, and the noise insulation was installed before the steering column was installed. I deliberately glued the vibration insulation after painting - it seems to me that this way the metal of the bottom will be better protected from corrosion under it. And the steering column had to be installed earlier so that the car could be transported to the painter. And anyway, the previous owner cut the sound insulation so that it could be removed without removing the steering column. So, I installed it like that, then glued it. But it is correct to install the sound insulation of the motor shield and torpedo BEFORE installing the steering column and the cardan rail.
I started with vibration isolation of the bottom. In the diagram, this is part No. 13 (51 48 8 165 271) - it is a sheet 1160X700MM. It can be ordered in the original, but its price is too high, in my opinion. Therefore, I bought a similar material and much cheaper - StP Vizomat 3.5 mm, 5 sheets 530x750 mm.
You also need a special roller for gluing sheets and an industrial fan heater for heating. Cleaned and degreased the surfaces.
In advance, based on photos on the Internet and prints of old vibration insulation, I drew and printed paper templates.
After several try-ons and adjustments, I received the exact patterns of the patterns, as it was at the factory. Photos of this process and templates are lost somewhere, but I will post the template files in .pdf format later.
Next, heat the pattern with a fan heater and tightly roll it with a roller. Photo of the finished result.
Right side:
Rear seat:
Left side:
General appearance:
By the way, does anyone know why the insulation in the rear part was so strangely glued from the factory? It is not symmetrical, but the left is shifted forward, and the right is shifted back.
As you can see, factory vibration insulation remained on the gearbox tunnel, which was painted over.
For a more aesthetic look, I decided to make it black as well. It is very difficult to wash off the paint, so I just painted it black and then sanded it down. The same texture turned out - it looks much more beautiful this way.
The vibration isolation of all doors and the spare wheel niche remained factory. It is in excellent condition.
Next, we proceed to sound insulation of the rear roof racks - No. 7 on the diagram. They are no longer available to order, so I selected the most similar material for them in the "car audio" store. Based on the old prints, I made a template and cut it out.
By the way, the racks of 4-door cars are similar to 2-door cars, as they also have cutouts for installing side window handles that open.
Prepared the surface and glued.
Sound insulation of the roof No. 3 and No. 4 is used only on cars without a sunroof, so we skip it. For cars with a sunroof, it is different, and will be shown in the corresponding section on the sunroof.
At this point, we complete the insulation that is glued, and move on to the insulation that is attached with various clips. In the diagram, this is part #1, consisting of three parts (left 51 48 1 916 443, right 51 48 1 962 048, middle 51 48 1 916 442) and #2(51 48 1 906 393).
For convenience, I made a table on their fastening with the numbers and number of clips, since it is not specified in the ETK.
I also added the clips and nuts on the motor shield cover to the table.
I do not pretend to be the truth, I did it simply according to logic - where there is wiring, I put it with lugs where there is no wiring, ordinary ones. Although clips and nuts are interchangeable. I replaced a few if available, it is not critical. I did not use nuts #10 for a screwdriver, as they are then very difficult to unscrew.
On most cars, this insulation has long since turned to ash, or has been replaced with modern materials. But I was lucky to find it in pretty good condition. And the left and right parts are completely new.
Let's start with the salon. I will repeat again - IMPORTANT - sound insulation must be installed BEFORE installing the steering column and hood cable. Otherwise, it will have to be cut. I did not take this into account, so I had to cut it, and then sew it to the right of the column, and remove the cable.
The left side - here you can see where the clips are placed.
The right side - here you can see where the clips are placed.
It will also be fixed with the glove box bar on the bottom by three studs when it is installed.
Installed
Next, we move to the engine compartment.
The left side - here you can see where the clips are placed.
Again, an important nuance - the insulation must be installed BEFORE installing the hood cable. I had to remove it.
The right side - here you can see where the clips are placed.
Again, an important nuance - the insulation must be installed BEFORE installing the battery cable. I did everything right here.
The middle part - here you can see where the clips are placed.
In the upper part, three clips for the brake tube are placed - I will write about this later in the corresponding section.
There are even more nuances here - the insulation must be installed BEFORE installing the steering column with cardan shaft, vacuum brake booster, fuel, brake pipes, clutch hoses and interior heater radiator hoses.
Installed.
There are two more details on the diagram - No. 5 and No. 6. This is sound insulation of the floor. On pre-restyling cars, it was separate from the carpet. I doubt that I will find it in better condition than mine, so I will restore mine to normal condition. I will install it after all the wiring is laid, so I will write about it later.
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