E30 from Ukraine - "Shadow of Intelligence"

[The_Glory]

Assembly_21. ETK_51_Body equipment. (part 1) Soundproofing

Further assembly will be in the ETK section ЕТК_31_Оснащение кузова

I will start almost from the very end of this section - Soundproofing



This includes vibration isolation and noise isolation of the cabin. In fact, it had to be done even earlier, since at the factory the vibration insulation was glued before the body was painted, and the noise insulation was installed before the steering column was installed. I deliberately glued the vibration insulation after painting - it seems to me that this way the metal of the bottom will be better protected from corrosion under it. And the steering column had to be installed earlier so that the car could be transported to the painter. And anyway, the previous owner cut the sound insulation so that it could be removed without removing the steering column. So, I installed it like that, then glued it. But it is correct to install the sound insulation of the motor shield and torpedo BEFORE installing the steering column and the cardan rail.
I started with vibration isolation of the bottom. In the diagram, this is part No. 13 (51 48 8 165 271) - it is a sheet 1160X700MM. It can be ordered in the original, but its price is too high, in my opinion. Therefore, I bought a similar material and much cheaper - StP Vizomat 3.5 mm, 5 sheets 530x750 mm.



You also need a special roller for gluing sheets and an industrial fan heater for heating. Cleaned and degreased the surfaces.











In advance, based on photos on the Internet and prints of old vibration insulation, I drew and printed paper templates.





After several try-ons and adjustments, I received the exact patterns of the patterns, as it was at the factory. Photos of this process and templates are lost somewhere, but I will post the template files in .pdf format later.
Next, heat the pattern with a fan heater and tightly roll it with a roller. Photo of the finished result.
Right side:





Rear seat:



Left side:





General appearance:



By the way, does anyone know why the insulation in the rear part was so strangely glued from the factory? It is not symmetrical, but the left is shifted forward, and the right is shifted back.
As you can see, factory vibration insulation remained on the gearbox tunnel, which was painted over.



For a more aesthetic look, I decided to make it black as well. It is very difficult to wash off the paint, so I just painted it black and then sanded it down. The same texture turned out - it looks much more beautiful this way.













The vibration isolation of all doors and the spare wheel niche remained factory. It is in excellent condition.


Next, we proceed to sound insulation of the rear roof racks - No. 7 on the diagram. They are no longer available to order, so I selected the most similar material for them in the "car audio" store. Based on the old prints, I made a template and cut it out.





By the way, the racks of 4-door cars are similar to 2-door cars, as they also have cutouts for installing side window handles that open.



Prepared the surface and glued.









Sound insulation of the roof No. 3 and No. 4 is used only on cars without a sunroof, so we skip it. For cars with a sunroof, it is different, and will be shown in the corresponding section on the sunroof.

At this point, we complete the insulation that is glued, and move on to the insulation that is attached with various clips. In the diagram, this is part #1, consisting of three parts (left 51 48 1 916 443, right 51 48 1 962 048, middle 51 48 1 916 442) and #2(51 48 1 906 393).
For convenience, I made a table on their fastening with the numbers and number of clips, since it is not specified in the ETK.



I also added the clips and nuts on the motor shield cover to the table.
I do not pretend to be the truth, I did it simply according to logic - where there is wiring, I put it with lugs where there is no wiring, ordinary ones. Although clips and nuts are interchangeable. I replaced a few if available, it is not critical. I did not use nuts #10 for a screwdriver, as they are then very difficult to unscrew.
On most cars, this insulation has long since turned to ash, or has been replaced with modern materials. But I was lucky to find it in pretty good condition. And the left and right parts are completely new.









Let's start with the salon. I will repeat again - IMPORTANT - sound insulation must be installed BEFORE installing the steering column and hood cable. Otherwise, it will have to be cut. I did not take this into account, so I had to cut it, and then sew it to the right of the column, and remove the cable.



The left side - here you can see where the clips are placed.



The right side - here you can see where the clips are placed.
It will also be fixed with the glove box bar on the bottom by three studs when it is installed.



Installed



Next, we move to the engine compartment.
The left side - here you can see where the clips are placed.



Again, an important nuance - the insulation must be installed BEFORE installing the hood cable. I had to remove it.
The right side - here you can see where the clips are placed.



Again, an important nuance - the insulation must be installed BEFORE installing the battery cable. I did everything right here.

The middle part - here you can see where the clips are placed.
In the upper part, three clips for the brake tube are placed - I will write about this later in the corresponding section.



There are even more nuances here - the insulation must be installed BEFORE installing the steering column with cardan shaft, vacuum brake booster, fuel, brake pipes, clutch hoses and interior heater radiator hoses.



Installed.



There are two more details on the diagram - No. 5 and No. 6. This is sound insulation of the floor. On pre-restyling cars, it was separate from the carpet. I doubt that I will find it in better condition than mine, so I will restore mine to normal condition. I will install it after all the wiring is laid, so I will write about it later.

[The_Glory]

Next, we go to the section Stoppers/plugs



To finish insulating the bottom, we will first deal with its plugs. Here they are:



Diagram No. 18 (51 71 1 972 464) is a plug for the holes in the spars and the bottom. But this number has different plugs - rubber, metal with sealant, and plastic. Apparently, they changed with the years of release. I had the whole team :) The price of a new plug is $30 - a bit too much for me. That's why I didn't start ordering all the same new ones, but put rubber ones on the left and plastic ones on the right. In my opinion, rubber ones are better. And metal ones with a sealant are disposable, or they need a new sealant. There should be 4 plugs on each side. But on the left, one middle one is welded on the spar, and on the right, the lateral one is welded in the bottom. That's why I have three of them, but the cutouts in the insulation are made for all plugs.
There are two plugs in the transverse beams for fastening the seats. I did not find them at all in ETK, so I also put the old ones.
By the way, I pre-treat all holes with wax.

Left side.





Right side. A rectangular cutout in the insulation is provided for fastening the accelerator pedal on right-hand drive cars.





On the right, there is another plug on the engine shield near the gearbox tunnel - you can see it in the photo. According to ETK, it has a diameter of 35 mm, but in fact there is a hole of 20 mm. I had it closed with a metal plug for sealing. But she rotted. Therefore, I closed it with a suitable size plastic plug No. 9 (51 71 1 801 066).

In the diagram, part No. 5 (41 12 8 200 462) is a metal plug for the large holes in the rear part of the bottom. For me, these holes were simply welded and smeared with sealant. That's why I don't have these plugs.





Now some more general information on the stubs I found.



A large shield with a gasket and clips is a cover over the fuel tank (on the diagram #1...4).



Plastic plug for spars 52 mm - on scheme No. 18 (51 71 1 972 464)


Plugs 14 mm below the middle of the thresholds (2 pcs.), and in the upper supports of the rear springs (2 pcs.)


Plugs 6.9 mm on the battery shelf (2 pcs.)


Plugs 12 mm on the sides in the thresholds in front of the rear arch (2 pcs.)


Plug 20 mm No. 9 (51 71 1 801 066) in door sills, rear shelf, trunk floor, etc. (~20 pieces)


I will add information about other plugs during the assembly process in the relevant sections of the ETK.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_22. ETK_34_ Brake mechanisms (part 2)

After installing noise insulation, you can install brake pipes and the entire brake system.

I bought all new clips, rubber plugs and fasteners for this.


New steel brake tubes with a polymer coating - the front ones are original, and the rear ones are an absolutely exact analogue of the Polish manufacturer WP. The thread on all tubes is M10, and the length of each is indicated in the ETK.


A set of reinforced brake hoses is also from the Polish manufacturer PHU Donocik Racing.
You also need a special key for bending pipes - without it, it would be difficult to bend steel pipes.




So, back to this section.

ЕТК_34_Тормозные механимы

In the first part, I already wrote about the installation of the hand brake, and in the second part, we will talk about the tubes and the hydraulic drive of the brakes for cars equipped with rear disc brakes and the ABS system.

Let's start with the front.

Brake pipe front


Front tubes:


Clip Visitor Messages in the diagram is no longer available to order, so I replaced it with a similar hose clip. I think it will be fine.

You need two hose clamps Forum for the front tubes, but you need 10 of them in total for the car - just like in the photo, there are 10 of them in the package.


The right front tube is fixed with three clips No. 6, which at the same time are the fastening of the sound insulation of the motor shield - I already wrote about this recently.




The tube exits into the arch through the rubber insert No. 3.


And it is fixed with a clamp to hose Forum


The same is true on the left side.

I fixed the left tube together with the right one with a Visitor Messages clip on the edge of the support. I'm not 100% sure that this was the case from the factory, but I can't see any other place for this clip.




Both front pipes go to the place of installation of the ABS hydraulic unit.


The rear pipes had to be bent into place, so for this, a vacuum booster with a brake master cylinder and an ABS hydraulic unit must first be installed.
Let's start with the ABS hydraulic unit.

ECU antiblock system


All brackets and bolts were galvanized, the body was cleaned and painted. The cover was painted by a specialist with texture paint for plastic - I liked the result.


I cleaned and treated the contacts of both relays with a contact spray, assembled the block, installed the fasteners.


The ABS hydroblock is ready for installation.





We screw the fasteners to the ABS electronic unit.




We install the ABS relay in place.



Clean contacts, ready to install. But after laying all the wiring.


We put the rubber cushions of the hydroblock and the "mass" bolt G104.


Insert the third pillow into the groove and fasten it. We also screw in the "mass" wire.


The ABS hydroblock is installed.

Next - a vacuum brake amplifier. I have written about him before. I was lucky enough to find a twin amp from an E30 325ix that becomes a bolt-on. But during the installation, some nuances were revealed - more on them later.

Vacuum brake booster


Parts #7, 16, 17, 20 are not used.
The diagram shows a normal amplifier, so the photo below has parts that are not on the diagram. Namely - the original factory transition spacer with a gasket, thanks to which the double amplifier from the E32/E34 becomes a bolt-on E30.


Spacer from E30 325ix (35 21 1 155 135)


Another part missing from the diagram is the clip-bracket for the fuel hose (13 31 1 714 455). It's not relevant to this section, but it screws into the vacuum booster, so it's here.


Part No. 2 is an air filter that is no longer available for ordering. Judging by its remains, it is an ordinary paralon. I cut it according to the dimensions taken.


Rubber parts.


Double vacuum brake booster assembly.


I put the spacer on the thread sealant - that's how it was from the factory.


Next is the master brake cylinder.

Главный тормозной цилиндр/бахок




The brake master cylinder for the dual vacuum booster is different from the normal one. That is why detail No. 3 is missing in it. Also, the cover may not fit the wiring of the brake fluid level sensor. There are different connectors, but the covers can be replaced with each other. We install the tank and the lid - everything is simple.


It remains to screw the cylinder to the amplifier. Do not forget to put a new rubber ring between them.


We also do not forget about the bracket for the fuel hose - it can be seen in the photo.


Ready to install.


Of course, the vacuum amplifier is attached to the body together with the pedal unit, but there will be a separate section about it.
The amplifier is installed.




The next photo shows the same nuance that I wrote about at the beginning.


The double amplifier has a greater thickness than the usual one, in addition, thanks to the spacer, it has shifted significantly forward. And now, obviously, there will be some difficulties when installing the power steering tank - it will no longer fit into its place. It will be necessary to come up with something to fix it in place. But we will solve problems as they arise. Then we'll see...

And now that the ABS hydraulic unit and brake master cylinder are installed, you can bend and fit the brake pipes under them.
We start with the tubes of the ABS hydraulic block.

Brake pipe c ABS Pd


I kept my ABS pipes, they were in good condition. Just cleaned and painted them.


I ordered new plastic tube holders, but then it turned out that I had them all, so they did not fit.




We fit the tubes and connect the master brake cylinder to the ABS hydraulic unit.

On the cylinder, the front fitting is the outlet for the front brakes, the rear fitting is for the rear brakes.

The fittings on the ABS hydraulic unit have the following markings:
V - front entrance
H - rear entrance
l - exit in front of the left
r - exit in front of the right
h - rear exit

We screw the tubes and align them with plastic holders.




An analogue of the front tube holder that I mentioned earlier.


ABS tubes are installed.

It remains to install the rear tubes.

Brake drive pipe Zd


Parts Visitor Messages and Private Messages are not used. Judging by ETK, they are intended for machines with a maximum load of more than 1700 kg. I think we are talking about towing a large trailer, or carriage.
Brake force regulator No. 7 (34 34 1 156 716)

is placed after the master brake cylinder, and spacer No. 8 (34 32 1 156 869)

is attached instead of the usual brake force regulator No. 5 (34 33 1 152 494)


So, in my case, the usual brake force regulator is installed.
Rear tubes:


Clip Other Forums (34 32 1 158 467) on the diagram - I still did not understand where it can be placed. It is indicated that she is alone. But I had 5 clips on the bottom in the back. So I ordered it. But they did not fit at all in terms of fastening. It's good that my old clips remained intact - I put them in so that I wouldn't have to wait a few more weeks.
Clip Groups (34 30 1 161 567) is no longer available for ordering, but there is a substitute (34 32 6 855 500) - suitable. Only 4 pieces are needed, two for each rear lever.
No. 2 hose clamps are required for the rear tubes in total seven pieces.

Let's start with the installation of the brake force regulator. The bend of the tube here had to be made smaller. Then I will show why.


The brake pipe is laid along the bottom parallel to the fuel pipes and fastened together with them.
This mount is located in the fuel line section. Therefore, I will write about him later.


It's good that even though the fuel pipes are already bent from the factory, I bent the brake pipe along them. I will say that it is not very convenient to bend a 3-meter steel tube while lying under the car. Especially over the rear beam. By the way, this is where the clips that the new ones did not fit are put. The photo shows the old ones.






And here are the consequences of bending the tube, which I wrote about at the beginning. I made a very large bend on the brake force regulator and missed several centimeters of the tube to where the tee mounts. In addition, the tube itself was 3 cm shorter than the original. There was no desire to straighten and rebend the entire steel tube. I also didn't want to pass the clip over a shorter distance, so I made an extension bracket for attaching the tee. A little collective farm, but neat as it is)))


Further, from the tee to the left and right sides.


Left hose


Left lever - two clips.


The left hose is on the lever


Right hose


Right lever - two clips.


The right hose on the lever


So, all tubes and hydraulic brake actuator for cars equipped with rear disc brakes and ABS are installed.
It remains to install only the brake calipers. But first they need to be brought into proper shape. Therefore, I will write about it later, in the third part of this chapter.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_23. ETK_35_Pedal control

As I already wrote in the previous section, the vacuum brake booster is attached to the engine shield together with the pedal assembly. Therefore, we proceed to the next section of ETC:
Pedal control

It is more convenient to install the accelerator pedal first, and then the pedal unit. Therefore, we start with this unit.
Accelerator pedal drive/cable LR


Accelerator pedal details.


Details #3, 18, 19 are not used.
I didn't have the locking bracket Special at all, so I bought a new one, and also bought new rubber bushings #11, 13 for the spring, because the old ones were rusted and fell apart. Everything else was simply cleaned and painted.
The number of rubber bushings is not correctly indicated in the ETK - you need one of each. They differ in width. Wide No. 11 (35 31 1 113 725) is placed on the accelerator pedal lever, and narrow No. 13 (35 41 1 113 728) is placed on the pedal assembly.


For some reason, I forgot to remove plastic bushings Visitor Messages and rubber stop #10 for the pedal lever before painting. Therefore, I had to clean them well from the paint. But they were preserved in good condition.


Details of the cable assembly


For some reason, I also forgot to unscrew the stop of the accelerator pedal before painting, although I tried later, but could not. I didn't want to break the bolt, so I left it as is and painted it.


By the way, about the stops - as it turned out, there are two more, the existence of which I had no idea. In the photo below, the places of their installation are shown by red arrows. I have already said about the upper one - it is a rubber stop (35 41 1 158 149) of the accelerator pedal lever, which I had not noticed before under the paint. And the lower one is the stop of the clutch pedal - about it in the next subsection.


The assembly is very simple - we insert the bushings into the brackets, lubricate them with silicone grease, insert the lever and lock it. We fix the pedal in the bracket on the bottom. By the way, this is a "weak" point of the E30 - water from wet shoes constantly flows down the pedal onto this bracket and it rusts very badly. I had a welder make it anew. Therefore, just in case, I filled it with anti-rust. Another point - the pedals and brackets are different before restyling and after restyling.
Next, we connect the pedal to the lever, but we do not put the locking bracket yet - so that we do not have to remove it again when installing the noise insulation and the interior carpet. We insert a spring with a rubber insert No. 11 and a cable with a rubber insert No. 9 into the lever. We put the same stops that I mentioned above.


We lead the cable through the motor shield, and fix it in the hole with latches.


Next, we proceed to the installation of the pedal assembly.
Pedal/stop light switch


Details of the pedal unit.


The mounting is galvanized, the pedals are painted, everything is cleaned.
I cut gasket Forum (35 11 1 150 370) from splenium, although it is available to order and is not expensive, but in the original it is made of foam. In my opinion, in this place (as well as the steering column gasket), splenum fits much better - it does not absorb moisture, which can provoke corrosion.
Pedal bushings No. 9 (35 21 1 109 541) are missing from the photo. Actually, they are there, I just didn't remove them from the pedals.


They sit there very tightly, there are no signs of wear and play, so I decided not to touch them so as not to break them, because new ones are unreasonably expensive. So I painted it.


Rubber bushings CSS Examples and Regional Forums under the springs are the same as on the accelerator pedal. Their number is also incorrectly indicated here in the ETK. Wide No. 18 (35 31 1 113 725) requires one, and narrow No. 12 (35 41 1 113 728) requires two. The wide one is placed on the clutch pedal, and the narrow ones on the bracket of the pedal unit (brake pedal) and on the body bracket of the steering column (clutch pedal).
In total, 35 31 1 113 725 - 2 pieces, 35 41 1 113 728 - 3 pieces are needed for the car.


Rubber pads on pedals Private Messages and General Forums are the same - 35 21 1 108 634.
I bought new ones, for beauty, although mine were still more or less normal. By the way, there are inexpensive analogs, but judging by the reviews, they wear out very quickly.


Parts No. 32 and No. 34 are used only if cruise control is installed on the car - this is its switch with a bracket. There will be a separate section about cruise control, but it is more convenient to screw this switch now than later to an already installed pedal unit.

Part No. 31 (35 21 1 155 135) is a spacer used only on all-wheel drive restyled E30s. I already wrote about it last time - it is needed for the "bolt-on" installation of the double vacuum brake booster from the E32/E34 on the E30.








I already mentioned the stop of the clutch pedal. I saw a bushing on the engine shield with a broken bolt in it, but I didn't even know there was supposed to be a stop as it was broken under the carpet. But after seeing it in ETK, I ordered it. It consists of two parts - a plastic screw Members Rides (35 31 1 152 237) and a rubber pad General Discussion (35 31 1 153 896) on it.




The emphasis is on assembly.




He began to look for where it was placed and took a closer look at the sleeve. Under the paint and sealant, it turned out not to be a bolt that was broken, but a plastic stop screw.


It was easily drilled out, and the stop fell into place.

On the diagram in the ETK, two parts that were installed by me are missing - plastic covers of the head of the axial bolt of the pedals.


Maybe they shouldn't be there, but I saw them in a photo on the Internet, so I left them. They perform their decorative function.

But I don't have detail No. 22. This is some kind of additional spring on the clutch pedal. It is not on all E30s, and it probably depends on the configuration or year of production - I don't know for sure. I have a clutch master cylinder ring instead - it is there in the photo.

So, we assemble the pedal unit according to the ETK scheme.


Do not forget to put a splenic pad. And the place for the stop of the clutch pedal is already ready.


We fasten 4 nuts to the vacuum brake amplifier, and 2 bolts from above to the steering column bracket.
We attach a spring with a rubber sleeve from the clutch pedal to the same bracket.
We fix the rod of the vacuum brake amplifier on the brake pedal. We hook the spring of the brake pedal without a rubber sleeve to the rod bolt.
We hook the spring of the accelerator pedal with a rubber sleeve to the bracket of the pedal assembly.
We screw in the stop for the clutch pedal.


The pedal assembly is installed.


It remains to screw the clutch master cylinder to it, but more on that in the appropriate section.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_24. ETK_35_ Clutch

To finish with the pedals, you need to install the clutch master cylinder on them. Let's go to the corresponding section of ETK.
Clutch

Its first subdivision.
Clutch


Although it was a long time ago, I already changed the clutch disc and release bearing. I had no complaints about the clutch, so I don't plan to climb there again. I'm not even going to unscrew the gearbox from the engine. Therefore, we skip this section. If I do climb there, I will write about it later.

The second subdivision.
Clutch control drive


Details #6, 11, 20-24 are not used. Parts #20-24 are used only on right-hand drive cars.

Clutch drive details.


Bolts and nuts are galvanized with "yellow zinc".
All other parts are new. In the photo, only the hose is old - I really liked its blue color, after I washed it off the dirt - almost the color of the car :) But it turned out to be short, because the vacuum amplifier brake shifted forward, and a new hose had to be installed as well.
But, first I wanted to restore the original clutch master cylinder. Although it worked fine, I took it apart.




Cleaned, painted the body and installed a new repair kit Frenkit 419007.


On the left are old original parts, on the right is a new repair kit.


I found their numbers on the old original parts, maybe someone will need them.
Cuff


corrugation




Hose insert


FAG housing


Assembly is simple - remove the corrugation, remove the locking ring, pull out the stem and spring. Pull out the rod ring from the hinge, remove the cuffs. Assemble the parts from the repair kit in reverse order. I did all that and then bought a new cylinder :)


I don't know why... it's just that I changed the clutch cylinder a long time ago, even after buying the car, so I decided it's better to change it for prevention. Well, together with the master cylinder as well, so that everything is already new, and you don't have to climb there anymore. Both cylinders were bought by ABS. Main ABS 51718X, working ABS 1800.


Rubber inserts Blogs and Albums in the motor shield are the same (21 52 1 156 082), but are no longer available for ordering. Although they were almost intact, I decided to replace them with new ones according to the replacement number (21 526 863 043) for E36 and other newer models. I somehow broke the plastic Visitor Messages (21 52 1 151 697) hose flange when removing the cylinder, so that's new as well.


Old parts on the left, and new parts on the right. The new inserts, in addition to the installation groove, have an additional "collar", which externally fits snugly to the sound insulation of the engine shield.


Bracket No. 12 (34 34 1 163 565), similar to brake pipe brackets. I already wrote that only 10 of them are needed for the car. 2 pieces for the front brake pipes, 7 pieces for the rear brake pipes, and 1 piece for the clutch pipe.
The clutch tube is steel with a WP polymer coating, 260 mm long.

Now a small "live hack" that I found on the Internet. If you look carefully at the first general photo of the parts, you will not see a hose with a metal tube E34/E28 Forums (21 52 1 153 513). It is available to order, but at the price of 75 Euros - too much for me. I just cut my old hose off when I took it off so I wouldn't have to mess with it. If I had known its price then, maybe I would have fainted! :) Although, it would still have to be changed, it was cracked. So, we buy a regular rear brake hose (34 32 1 159 881), 200 mm long (I bought an ATE hose), and a WP steel brake pipe, 100 mm long.


We connect them, and we get a similar hose, only 10 times cheaper.


We compare it with the original hose - no difference. So why pay more? :)


Now about the assembly. It would be more logical and easier to install the clutch master cylinder together with the hose, immediately on the pedal unit, and then install everything together on the car. But I did not do this, and now it was very inconvenient to screw it and insert the hose with a plastic flange. But still I screwed it up.




Screw the cylinder rod to the pedal.


The cylinder body and its hose exit through rubber inserts in the motor shield.




The outer rubber inserts tightly adhere to the noise insulation with their "collar" - much better than the old original ones.


As I said, the old beautiful blue one :) the hose was now short and didn't reach the tank, so I put a new one.


It remains to screw the tube to the cylinder. It was also not very convenient to do it, but I screwed it up.


Next, we put a clamp and attach a "self-made" hose to the tube.


The working cylinder of the clutch will lie on the shelf until the gearbox is installed. Then, on the spot, I will bend the tube of the "self-made" hose.
That's it with the pedals.
Next will be about the fuel system.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_25. ETK_16_ Fuel supply system

The next step is the fuel system. It has long been in need of a fairly serious repair - the tank has been leaking at the joint for a long time and has already been several times, right on the road, sealed with "cold welding" (by the way, it holds up well), the pipes are very rusty, with "plumbing" from hoses, hoses with cracks, clamps are rusty, some parts were missing altogether. Therefore, the fuel system was almost completely replaced. To do this, I bought new original steel tubes, original clamps, all hoses, plastic tubes, fasteners, rubber neck and pump covers, clips and other small parts.






I also found the tank, valve neck, metal and plastic shields in the rear right arch, plastic shields on the tank, tanks and fuel pump mounts in very good condition. Everything was cleaned, painted and galvanized.

So, the next big ETK section - ЕТК_16_ Supply system fuel

We start again from the end of the chapter. There is such an interesting subdivision:

Fuel cooling system


Judging by the ETC, this interesting option was only available for the Australian market - probably because it's very hot there ;) I've only seen this thing for sale once on ebay, in the same Australia. I didn't have time to buy, and delivery would be too expensive. But I kept the photo, because I will probably see something here live...
The photos are not mine - just for information about the rare E30 option.


Judging from the photo, a special air conditioner hose with fuel pipes around it serves as a radiator. Therefore, it is logical that this option was placed only together with the air conditioner.



Further, the tubes with the shield were somehow attached to the motor shield, perhaps instead of the usual shield.



Then they went to the return fuel line.
This is such an interesting thing. Maybe someday I will buy it later! ;)

Well, now about my car assembly.
An external outboard fuel pump was installed on pre-restyling cars. It is located under the threshold, in front of the rear left wheel. There was also an option with two pumps - with an additional pumping pump in the tank. This is exactly the option on my car. Let's start with it.

Fuel pump



Details of the outboard fuel pump.


Pump No. 8 on the diagram (16 14 1 179 232) is used only in combination with a pumping pump. The original pump is BOSCH 0 580 464 070.


I bought it new many years ago, and there are no complaints about its work until now. That's why I left him. But I have been interested in its fastening for a long time. I had it attached with a rubber ring Albums - like in this photo:


But the ETK still has parts #10 (16 12 1 178 642), #11 (16 12 1 178 738), №12 (16 12 1 178 668), which I have never seen on an E30. I found their photo in Google.



These are rubber casings of the pump. I liked the look, so I ordered it, although I was not sure that they would fit, and the set costs more than $100. Fortunately, they approached. But, at the same time, rubber ring No. 9 becomes redundant. The pump is attached either through a ring or through these casings. They are not compatible together.
I was also interested in details №14 and №20 I understand that they are needed to reduce fuel pulsation from the pumps. I didn't have them at all. I can't say that it somehow negatively affected the operation of the fuel system, but I decided to assemble everything as it should have been from the factory. I found these tanks, and No. 14 is available in three versions.


The first Wahler


Second Bischoff


The third Bosch


The first and second are just empty tanks with a through passage. The third is under a rubber plug inside with some kind of membrane on the spring. But I don't know what was done with it, because there are traces of welding on it. Therefore, I chose the first option for installation.

I also want to pay attention to details No. 4 (16 12 1 177 892) and No. 5 (61 21 1 243 530). Only number 5 can be used. In most cases, they are broken, but the price of new original ones is inadequate, in my opinion. And there are no analogues for the number. I also had them torn, I was trying to think of something there, some kind of collective farm :) I was lucky to find a whole pump mount with all these parts. But I also found an alternative - after searching on Google "vibroisolator" I found this [URL='https://www.detal-if.com.ua/ru/bolt-bolt-shajba-bbsh.html']this[/URL ] A great option for ridiculous money, compared to the original.

So, let's start the assembly.
All clamps were new original stainless steel. As practice has shown, even after 30 years, they spin up much better than the new Chinese ones.


I made notes on the assembly for myself - the size, length of the hoses, and the size and number of clamps are indicated there. Maybe it will be useful to someone.


We put the covers on the pump - they become very tight. We screw the tanks.




The terminals are now more protected by a casing.


We screw the pump bracket to the body through vibration isolators and a hose clamp.


By the way, in the section on plugs, I wrote that plugs are placed near the fuel pump in the doorway. I had these holes welded here when the fasteners for the pump were restored. But on the right side, these plugs remained under the antirust.


Two plugs with a diameter of 20 mm (51 71 1 801 066) are required for each side.


An outboard fuel pump is installed.


Hose No. 18 with protective hose No. 19 is first installed on the tank, so we will talk about it later.
And as it turned out later, it is better to put the black tank General Discussion already after installing the tank, because it gets in the way a little, and it is not convenient to screw the hose Regional Forums from the tank to it later. I had to remove it.

The next subdivision of ETK
Fuel pipe/ mounting elements


At first I wanted to make custom copper fuel lines from a pattern from old pipes. But then I still decided to order ready-made original steel ones. It's good that they are already bent and fit perfectly, unlike the original brake pipes, which have to be bent in place yourself.


Only three pipes - fuel supply (16 12 1 179 285), fuel return (16 12 1 177 372) and tank ventilation (16 13 1 177 466).




The diameter of all tubes is 8 mm, the length is specified in the ETK.

Old and new.


Details of tubes and their fastening.


I made notes on the assembly for myself - the size, length of the hoses, and the size and number of clamps are indicated there. Maybe it will be useful to someone.


First, we connect the hoses to the pumping pump and to the tank.


The thick 12x18mm hose is the hose for the outboard pump, which I wrote about in the previous section. And a thin hose of 13X18mm is a fuel return hose. At the other end of this metal tube of the tank, you need to connect the same hose, although it is not shown on the ETC diagram.

The fuel pipes perfectly fit the shape of the bottom and are screwed to it with a special fastener - parts No. 3, 4, 5, 6. Their number is not indicated in the ETK, but I counted six points of such fastening. The fuel supply and return pipes are attached together with the rear brake pipe.
According to the original, I have only one attachment point left - the first one, on the left spar. This is a threaded sleeve Special and a stainless screw Blogs welded to the body.


At other points, the rusted threaded bushings have been replaced with regular M6 threaded studs. Moreover, some turned out to be very short, and it was difficult to screw the tubes to them. A small "kolkhoz", but not critical, in my opinion. I left the old plastic clips #6, just cleaned them, and bought new ones Groups They are made of stainless steel and numbered 16 12 1 155 064 each come complete with stainless screw Blogs Although the screws did not agree with me - I replaced them with stainless M6 nuts with washers. Only the holes in the slats had to be increased to 6 mm. The number of additional plastic clips Visitor Messages is also not indicated in the ETK. I put the old ones, as many as there were - 4 or 5 pcs.











Next will be about the tank ventilation system.

[The_Glory]

The next subdivision of ETK

Expansion tank/tubing


But I don't consider it, because my car is equipped with a fuel system ventilation system with a carbon filter, according to the environmental standards of that time "Euro 2". This system, in addition to the ventilation tubes, includes an adsorber with activated carbon and a valve for admitting gasoline vapors into the intake manifold, instead of releasing them into the atmosphere.
So, we are considering this option.

Expansion tank/filter with activated carbon


Details of this system


If you look carefully at the scheme, everything is clear, except for two of its elements. Part No. 26 (13 31 1 287 351) is a clamp for two hoses, but it is not clear where exactly it is placed. If anyone has a photo of where it should stand, I would be grateful. As long as I put it according to my understanding, I will show you exactly where.
The ETK does not specify the number of clips E30 Classified Forums (16 13 1 177 490) - I counted six of them under the bottom and four more above the tank, ten pieces in total. They are no longer available for ordering, but the replacement number (16 13 1 177 494) comes exactly the same.


Clamps are all new original, Gates hoses.


The steel ventilation pipe (16 13 1 177 466) is new. I bought new 6mm and 8mm plastic tubes for truck brake systems, but then accidentally found the original ones in good condition. I recently wrote in detail about the restoration of the adsorber - I replaced the activated carbon in it and painted it. I also mentioned the metal hose shield in the rear right arch - lucky to find one as it should be and in excellent condition. Also a plastic shield for it. Let me remind you - these two shields are of two types, although they have the same ETK numbers. Everything is cleaned, painted, galvanized.


The expansion tank was washed.


By the way, I accidentally bought a tank for a convertible along with the pipes - it turns out to be a little different there.

I made notes on the assembly for myself - the size, length of the hoses, and the size and number of clamps are indicated there. Maybe it will be useful to someone.


First, we push a thick 14x20 hose and 6mm and 8mm plastic tubes into a special body channel. Silicone spray helps a lot in this.


We connect the corresponding hoses to the tubes according to the diagram.


And the hoses, in turn, are connected to the expansion tank and the filler neck according to the same ETK scheme.


Thick hose to the neck. There is a thin hose 6x11 and on the upper fitting of the tank. We connect an 8x13 hose to the second upper fitting of the tank, which goes to a plastic tube of 8 mm and then to a steel ventilation tube. We connect a thin 6x11 hose that goes to the tank to the lower fitting of the tank.
By the way, I found a very good diagram for all these hoses and tubes.


We put the tank on its brackets and screw it with a self-tapping screw.


We cover the hose and ventilation tubes with a metal shield and fasten it with four plastic nuts (there is an option for fastening with six plastic nuts).




Hoses and tank installed




We put the bracket of the plastic shield.


My welder slightly changed the places of its fasteners, but not critically. Now the shield is screwed to it not with a self-tapping screw, but with a plastic nut. The second lower and upper fasteners remained stock, on self-tapping screws to the bracket on the body.


This is all over in the back arch, let's go under the bottom.
The hose and pipes from the channel go to the hatch under the rear seat, to the tank. The steel pipe of the tank ventilation also goes there.


I laid the pipe together with the fuel pipes - it was visible in the photo in the previous section. It passes on the other side of the spar and is attached with separate clips opposite the attachment of the fuel pipes.




Next, the tube goes above the tank and is fixed there with four more clips of the same type.


Under the hatch, a steel tube is connected by a hose to an 8mm plastic tube.


A 6 mm plastic tube and a hose go into the hatch under the rear seat. There they will be connected to the tank.


Now the front part. A steel tube wraps around the spar near the silent block of the front suspension, and goes to the fuel tubes.




Install the adsorber bracket on the left spar. The fuel filter bracket is attached together with it - it is also in the photo.


We install the absorber, fasten it to the bracket with a clamp.


We connect the tube to the adsorber with an inlet hose.


We connect the outlet hose with the valve to the adsorber.




Next, from will be connected to the choke.
And here is where I put the double clamp #26 (13 31 1 287 351) on the hoses.


There are no other ideas. After the complete assembly, I will look at where it is better to put it.

PS
There are separate sections on the adsorber and fuel filter in ETK, so I will write about them in detail later.

[The_Glory]

After all the pipes are laid, you can install the tank.
The E30 had a total of three tank options.
The first - (16 11 1 176 250) is the rarest, was placed only in the first year of E30 production - until 83. In the ETK, its volume is 58 liters, but in the photo it looks smaller than the pre-restyling tank of 55 liters.
The second - (16 11 1 177 983) before restyling tank for 55 liters, installed from 83 to 87. Such a tank was installed on diesel cars even after restyling.
The third - (16 11 1 180 175) tank for 63 liters, installed after restyling, since 1987.

Photo from the Internet - two tanks before restyling. 83-87 years on the left, up to 83 years on the right.

The photo shows that in the second version, the volume was clearly increased and a connecting tube was added between the halves of the tank.
In the third version, the volume was increased, but instead of the connecting tube, an "ejector" was used, thanks to which the fuel was sucked from one half of the tank to the other.




In my case, the second version of the 55-liter tank was installed. So, let's move on to the corresponding subdivision of ETK.
[URL='http://ru.bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/E30-4-doors/Europe/325i-M20/L-M/1985/browse/fuel_supply/fuel_tank_fuel_feed/']Fuel tank/fuel supply system[/ URL]


Part No. 7, 8, on the diagram, is a fuel level sensor, which is placed instead of the priming pump No. 10 with sensor No. 11 in complete sets without a priming pump.

Tank and filler neck details.


The clamps are new original, the rubber rings of the fuel level sensor and the fuel pump are new, the rubber gasket of the plug is new. The tank is attached at 5 points, but the number of bolts and nuts is not correctly indicated in the ETK. You actually need 4 bolts and 1 nut. By the way, I used stainless bolts and nuts. The neck pipe has different diameters at the inlet and outlet, so it can only be replaced with the original one. Fortunately, mine was preserved in good condition. The sump pump was cleaned and painted with zinc paint. The filler neck was sanded, coated with anti-gravel and painted. But I didn't really like her. And here's why.
In total, there were four types of filler necks on the E30. I had the simplest one - just a pipe. The rubber gasket of the plug was not very tight, and on the slalom, with an almost full tank, gasoline spilled out onto the wing. I heard that there was a case when this caused the car to catch fire during a burnout - it's good that they were able to put it out quickly. Therefore, just in case, I decided to replace the neck with a safer one - with a valve. Such nozzles were installed on cars that ran only on unleaded gasoline. But for some reason, both necks have the same ETC number (16 11 1 180 956). Then I noticed two interesting parts in the ETK, one of which turned out to be the same valve - General Forums (16 11 1 180 157). According to ETK, it fits all E30s - I ordered it.




I will write about the second part No. 18 (16 11 1 176 708) a little later.

This is a plastic valve.




For some reason, I decided that it is placed at the junction of the upper wide part of the neck and the lower pipe. But no matter how hard I tried, the valve would not fit there. I just couldn't fit physically. So I decided to buy another neck with a valve. And after comparing them, it became clear that that valve cannot just fit into a regular neck. For it, a special landing ring is welded into the wide part of the neck, above the ventilation tube.


Why in the ETK these two necks go under the same number, and it is indicated that the valve fits both of them - is not clear. Although externally and in terms of fastening, they are really the same. But the new valve turned out to be superfluous :)


Well, let's talk about the types of necks - I also have a neck for an additional tank - it has a metal valve.


I have already mentioned this tank before, and I will write briefly again in the relevant ETC section.

And the last type of necks is a plastic neck that combines the expansion tank of the tank ventilation system. I'm not exactly sure, but it seems that such necks were put on touring cars of the last years of production.


So, I also brought the second neck into proper shape, as well as the tank. Although, the tank was still in excellent condition.




By the way, in the photo, there are four galvanized brackets that are placed at the places where the tank is attached - for some reason, they are not shown in the ETK at all.
Inside the tank is also clean and beautiful.


We install the fuel pump on the rubber rings, then screw the fuel level sensor to it, and the fuel supply and return hoses, which I wrote about in the previous section. We put a protective hose on the fuel supply hose and fasten it with a tie, fix the hose with tape. We install brackets on the mounting holes of the tank.




I immediately screwed the brackets of the protective shield to the tank - it's more convenient that way.


Everything is ready for installation. It is better to put the tank together. And by the way, it is much more convenient to put it before installing the rear beam and suspension. But in my case it didn't work out that way, so I had to tinker with it a bit. Let's start with the simplest. We insert the rubber spacer No. 18 (16 11 1 176 708), which I mentioned at the beginning, into the hole on the right rear spar.


I didn't have it before, but now the neck is more protected from rubbing against the body.


Next, a protective rubber coupling No. 17 (16 11 1 176 761) is also placed on the neck in place of the body bracket
We screw the neck with a bolt to the body bracket.


Now tank. An important point - first you need to lay the wiring under the bottom to the level sensor and the pumping pump, because after installing the tank it will be very difficult to do it. Also, be careful not to pinch the ventilation hoses between the tank and the body.


I already wrote that I had to remove the pump tank because it was in the way. The rear beam and suspension are also a bit of a hindrance, but we are not looking for easy ways! :)
As the practice of several attempts has shown, it is better to immediately tighten the two rear bolts with large washers, then insert the tank to these bolts with grooves, and press it back.




Then tighten the front central bolt on the cardan tunnel.


Then tighten the front right nut and evenly tighten all four fasteners.


Only then does the tank fall into place, after which we tighten the last front left bolt (without bracket) near the pump.


We screw the fuel supply and return hoses to the corresponding fuel tubes. The tank is in place.




We connect the filler neck to the tank with a pipe on clamps. It's also not very convenient, but it's done!


We connect a thick hose and a 6 mm plastic ventilation tube to the corresponding fittings of the tank. We connect the wiring connectors to the fuel level sensor and the fuel pump.


We insert four clips, put a gasket.


I also cut this pad from splenium, instead of the original one from paralon. And close the hatch with a lid on screws.


The tank is installed.

The following is not a large division of ETK.
Heat insulation screen


Part Forum is not used. Apparently, this is a part for the tank before 83, which I wrote about above - in the photo on the right.


Part No. 13 is no longer available for order, but although it makes its way through the ETK, it is most likely also used together with that tank before 83.


Because there is simply nowhere to put it on my tank. My friend managed to buy it, but he also never found a place to install it.
So, there are two plastic shields that are attached to the bottom with three plastic nuts each, and a metal shield that is screwed to the tank with two brackets. The tank mounting bolts are also shown on the ETK diagram.
Here are all the details.


We screw on the left shield that closes the tank and the pump, and also presses the fuel pipes.




But the right shield that closes the tank.




The brackets of the metal shield are screwed to the tank.


Then we screw a metal shield to these brackets, which closes the connecting tube of the halves of the tank from the exhaust system.




The thermal screen of the exhaust system will then be attached to this shield.
Everything is installed.




The last unit of ETK remains - the first :)

Additional fuel tank


Another interesting and rare option in the fuel system section is the S850 Additional tank.
I've written about her before, so I'll just remind you. This option was available on cars with the M20 engine before restyling and on the M3. An additional 15-liter tank was installed in the trunk behind the rear seat partition.


Had his double neck


The wiring for the additional fuel level sensor and the sensor on the instrument panel on two scales.


The entire trunk lining is also different.


I have most of it except the trunk liners, but I won't be installing that extra tank. Because this is the rare case when the original factory option is installed not "bolt-on", but with the use of welding and body drilling - the brackets must be welded to the trunk partition in place and a large hole drilled in the bottom for an additional filler neck. I have no desire to do this after painting the body. In addition, I don't have skins, and without them the look will not be aesthetic at all. Therefore, only the electrical part - wiring, and the sensor on the instrument panel will be installed. But that will be later. And we'll see... maybe someday I'll find the skins, then I'll install the tank. And for now it will lie as a collector's item :)


This concludes the large section of the ETK "Fuel supply system".
Although there will be two entries on the adsorber and the fuel filter, but that is another chapter.

[The_Glory]

Anyone interested in this...? )

[Kotyarko_O]

Anyone interested in this...? )

Звiсно! (Of course)

[roguetoaster]

Lots of us are reading, but I suspect that we aren't posting lest we interrupt the flow of posts. Way to document your project and maintain some level normality in times such as these OP!

[The_Glory]

Звiсно! (Of course)

О, кого я бачу! ) Так ти можеш і на нашому форумі читати )) (Oh, who do I see! ) So you can also read on our forum)) )

[The_Glory]

Lots of us are reading, but I suspect that we aren't posting lest we interrupt the flow of posts. Way to document your project and maintain some level normality in times such as these OP!

OK, thanks.
I thought that our club forums died out like mammoths, but apparently this is a global trend - the times of Instagram and Tik-Tok have come :)

[QuiqueUy]

love the updates! happy to see this car is going to finish !

the amount of detail is amazing

[The_Glory]

love the updates! happy to see this car is going to finish !

the amount of detail is amazing

Well, I said from the very beginning that I would write everything in as much detail as possible. Although everyone knows this already :)