I was so close to getting a hallman than read up on this one and the reviews convinced me. Im more than satisfied. No need for something fancy. Simple and works.
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Hokejka e30 m50 turbo build
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Fender flares on.
Cut old flares off with grinder, Mated the 2 metals in the back with silicone and rivets. Predrilled holes in body and fenders. Fender lining in. Used an allen bolt and nut to hold fenders in place. Thinking about spraying the bolts and washers black. Not sure I like the stainless.
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alternator done. Lucky I knew something sketchy was going on, pulled in to an auto zone before I lost all power. They had an aftermarket one, ran back home to to take out old one and find the new one has no pressure area where to tighten the pulley against. It's sunken in unlike on the original one. Returned it. .
Picked up an oem replacement bosch that was luckily in town. Bosch doesn't f around and it came with the pulley so no need to deal with bolting old one in
my assistant ;)
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Im trying to set up my new cooling system and am hooking up electric fan. Ive went everywhere to figure out how I would hook it up finally I did and there is no power at the terminals. I checked further and there is no power at fuses 3, 18, 19 (aux fan fuses) also checked low and high relays and there is power only coming from pin 30 on each. When I touch pin 85 ground does not click like on the other relays. Whats going on?
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Originally posted by ak- View PostIf you don't like the shiny bolts on your fenders you can get these little covers that push into them so they are hidden/covered.
Google "allen bolt caps".
Nice tushy too.
As far as the aux fan its the k7 relay ground missing. Its effecting the whole car. time to get that pin grounded properly.
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So black/green unloader wire is finally reconnected at starter. Everythign works now besides ABS.
I am gettign a weird clicking noise from what sounds like inside the cabin. It sounds like a relay. Clicks about every 30 seconds. Any idea?
Also went through 2 alternators in 1 month. I could be having bad luck but I doubt it. Makes me think its associated with the clicking. Or could it be that the unloader relays weren't grounded?
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ABS Wiring: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=73435
Where is the "clicking" noise coming from? What size alternator and battery are you using?
1991 LS1 Swapped 318is
Instagram:
https://instagram.com/saltybeast/
LS Build Thread:
https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/for...s-e30-ls1-swap
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clicking noise
alternator: bosch 80amp
battery: autocraft 700 cranking amps
i figured out what turns off clicking but not exactly sure what it is. i noticed my ac button was depressed. i clicked it off and the clicking stopped. I played with it and noticed it clicks every time i depress it and if i hold it down the blower motor turns on on low only as long as i hold it. is that weird? it sounds like its coming from inside the dashboard....
also all the lights on the dash are still on. wonder whats causing that
Originally posted by ian e30 318is View PostABS Wiring: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=73435
Where is the "clicking" noise coming from? What size alternator and battery are you using?
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Stock M3 cranking amps is 650-700 amps so I think you are good there. I think the 80 amp alternator should be fine too. Are you buying refurnished? I had an issue with an alternator that was refurnished and it lasted about 4 months and completed died on a 2 lane backroad...in the rain...with my girlfriend...at 10pm. Perfect timing. Anyways I opened it up and the copper was discolored so I bought a new Bosch and haven't had an issue since. Are you sure the alternator is bad and not the battery? Are you checking the running amps yourself with a meter on the back leads?
The clicking noise is a strange subject to me. Are you running AC with your current setup? Not sure why the blower motor is turing on. The AC button should be engaging the compressor and condenser fan. Maybe a wire was rubbed bare and is contacting another under the dash? I would pull some of the easy pieces out of the dash/panel to investigate. Also not too sure about the lights are staying on. Electrical is always a tough one.
1991 LS1 Swapped 318is
Instagram:
https://instagram.com/saltybeast/
LS Build Thread:
https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/for...s-e30-ls1-swap
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Originally posted by ian e30 318is View PostStock M3 cranking amps is 650-700 amps so I think you are good there. I think the 80 amp alternator should be fine too. Are you buying refurnished? I had an issue with an alternator that was refurnished and it lasted about 4 months and completed died on a 2 lane backroad...in the rain...with my girlfriend...at 10pm. Perfect timing. Anyways I opened it up and the copper was discolored so I bought a new Bosch and haven't had an issue since. Are you sure the alternator is bad and not the battery? Are you checking the running amps yourself with a meter on the back leads?
The clicking noise is a strange subject to me. Are you running AC with your current setup? Not sure why the blower motor is turing on. The AC button should be engaging the compressor and condenser fan. Maybe a wire was rubbed bare and is contacting another under the dash? I would pull some of the easy pieces out of the dash/panel to investigate. Also not too sure about the lights are staying on. Electrical is always a tough one.
I am getting refurbished. I have the warranty for this one so I will swap it out with another one and see what happens. Worst case scenario I'm swapping alternators every month. good thing it takes an hour to do haha. I am positive the alternator is the problem. I have had both teated twice at auto zone.
I now realize that the clicking started once I wired in my electric fan. Before it did not click when button was depressed. Ever since I added fan it clicks. And yea i would expect it to to override and turn the electric fan on, but instead it does blower
I took out all A/C related hardware when I went turbo. Ill start taking some things out and have a look.
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Originally posted by hokejka View PostDamn that sucks. Stuff like this always happened at the worst possible time.
I am getting refurbished. I have the warranty for this one so I will swap it out with another one and see what happens. Worst case scenario I'm swapping alternators every month. good thing it takes an hour to do haha. I am positive the alternator is the problem. I have had both teated twice at auto zone.
I now realize that the clicking started once I wired in my electric fan. Before it did not click when button was depressed. Ever since I added fan it clicks. And yea i would expect it to to override and turn the electric fan on, but instead it does blower
I took out all A/C related hardware when I went turbo. Ill start taking some things out and have a look.
1991 LS1 Swapped 318is
Instagram:
https://instagram.com/saltybeast/
LS Build Thread:
https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/for...s-e30-ls1-swap
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