cameras ready prepare to flash

[s14brent]

I dropped off my full kit/wing/flares off to my wrap guy on Friday evening. Been kind of just checking things off my to-do list since I've had the time. I went ahead and mapped out my link g4x plans and bought a few things to get the enclosure all wrapped up (for now). I added the CANJST and XS expansion loom and made some holes with grommets to feed them through. I'm waiting on an aluminum bulkhead fitting to fit the on-board map sensor and this should be pretty much ready to close up! ~ nice and tidy!



I'm not sure if I mentioned it earlier but the front brake lines were stretching at full lock (with the slr angle kit). Condor makes some brake lines just for this purpose.



Then I found out my Motive power bleeder stopped holding pressure. At first I thought it was my gauge, but it turned out it was the bulkhead fitting. I cleaned up the fitting and put new teflon tape on both ends, but I had already ordered a new "black" model with the aluminum bmw cap fitting (vs plastic cap). Turns out I bought the original almost 9 years ago, and i ended up fixing it, so i will probably just keep the old one on the side somewhere and gift it to a friend in the future.



Its a good thing I did this brake flush, i tend to do a brake flush every year, but my LF brake bleeder was actually clogged. I made a mess, but cleared the valve out and finished up the job. I also bled the clutch slave "while i was there".



^ The wheel is at full lock in this photo, nowhere near the amount of stretch that the stock length lines were experiencing. very niiiice.


-------Update------

bulk head fitting arrived for the built-in MAP sensor for the Link G4x. Very pleased how this came out!!

[s14brent]

Welp.....wrap guy said he could still have everything wrapped before the vegasdrift night event on the 28th so I'm gonna give it a go! (as if i didn't have enough on my plate).








I tried to apply edge sealer all around the parts that got trimmed or drilled. I used 3m 82018 clear edge sealer. It wasn't a terrible job, just had to mask a ton. After that I filled in some of the imperfections on the kit some from drilling/cutting into the kit (or just pitted areas), one of the big fixes was from me being a dumbass and dropping the rear bumper and chipping the bottom corner.....While I was there.....I ended up doing some fills on the flares, and sanded down the garagistic spoiler as I didn't like the texture. Also got rid of the stamping underneath the gurney flap.

Meanwhile, I did get a banjo bolt adapter from MSW that converts the vanos oil line from 12mm to 14mm (for the s54 oil housing) and added a 1/8NPT to -4AN for the turbo oil feed line from Rally Road (which might be a bit short?). I also got the oil diverter valve from Bimmerworld with the new o-rings. They are not the same as what came out.....oh well, as long as it doesn't leak!! New vanos line and crush washers finally put to use!



Since the diverter valve came with a new OFH gasket, I decided to outfit the motor with a few spare parts that were laying around to clear up some space. (hepu water pump (will replace with stewart pump later), tensioner bracket, 80a bosch alternator, s52 power steering pump, achilles obd1 coolant port. I'm not sure if I'm going to use that or just get an obd2 coolant hard pipe again. Does anyone know if anyone makes the coolant hose thats shaped like a "T" in silicone and sells it alone? - I know HPS makes a kit, but i won't need any of the other hoses really.





Really hoping the wrap gets done in time for me to refit and have time to take some photos of it before the event!!

[s14brent]

Lots of progress!

Love to see more G4X/E36X usage around here. Seems to be such a no-brainer option.

No opinion on T3/T4 adapters, never used one. Agree that it would be nicer if the kangaroo was a vband setup, but I kind of like the flexibility to make something with whatever size vband (or blockoff and put WG on the housing)

Thanks man! I'm super stoked, got a decent deal through a local buddy. I already ordered about $130 in cables (CANJST/CANTEE/XS expansion loom). I am planning to utilize the CAN-LAMBDA (wideband) and ethanol content sensor (e85/flex fuel), and boost controller. It will all be displayed/ monitored on the oled CAN-gauge which will probably be dash mounted. I have almost over $1000 more to spend in Link products unfortunately, but its super cool all said and done to have it all in one unit.

Kangaroo being v-band would be awesome. T3/T4 adapter isn't really a big deal since the PSR3582 is offered in t3, I just don't want to have a super long extension on the wastegate adapter they provide (same reason to not want the RSI v1 manifold. I think I really do prefer a cast manifold, but I think I'll end up with RSI just because its proven to just work. If something ever happens I can pony up the cash and beg my buddy at virtualworks to copy that manifold but make it in schedule 40 or something. I already think intercooler/exhaust/wastegate dump is going to cost more than i'd like to spend. i've really got to practice tig welding on my free time.
------
Update:

I'm now able to be towed off the track. (front bumper cut-out looks like a nissan emblem.....lol). rear looks decently straight in pics, but its a little cock-eyed. its 110 outside.....i blame the sweat in my eye and the fiberglass on my safety glasses





Hoping to get the kit, flares, and spoiler wrapped soon. This month has been effing expensive, don't be surprised if there's a long pause after the next drift event update.

[Northern]

Lots of progress!

Love to see more G4X/E36X usage around here. Seems to be such a no-brainer option.

No opinion on T3/T4 adapters, never used one. Agree that it would be nicer if the kangaroo was a vband setup, but I kind of like the flexibility to make something with whatever size vband (or blockoff and put WG on the housing)

[s14brent]

quick and dirty grape fruit shooter attached. Needed an exhaust (since i removed my vibrant muffler to fit the kit on). I am actually surprised at how well it sounds. Theres a few more things I need to do before the next event on the 28th so i'm trying to get what i can done in time! my mig welds still fkn suck, but they do the job and free lol.




The rear bumper is a little wavy up top so i'm trying to see if heat+these clamps can help it out prior to wrapping it. I doubt it will do anything - but i have a few days before i can work on the car again. I also mounted the OMP strap onto the rear bumper bumper shock. I cut out a slot for the tow strap to feed through the bumper, its not perfect, but its functional.




I have to still measure and use a hole-saw up front for the front tow strap, and then finally install the condor extended front brake lines and bleed the whole system. Definitely not getting the kit wrapped this month it seems.

oh and as much as i'd like to go with the kangaroos cast manifold.....i dont think i want to be the guinea pig for it. I'd need the t3 to t4 twin scroll billet adapter ($100+ish, and shipping to my place is $203.xx via DHL).



What i can do, is have a RSI manifold reinforced/gusseted.



i had this 413 silver label dme in storage....it looks pretty identical to the bosch red label housing but i know silver labels have the EWS coded in there. I'm going to go ahead and gut this and hopefully have something to rehome inside of it soon.

edit**

sweet.

[s14brent]

What do you guys think about t3 to t4 adapters. The kangaroos would require the adapter vs the RSI

*edit* Pulstar PSR3582 is offered in t3 also, so it would work. I just am not a huge fan of the triangle wastegate setup. I would have to have the engine installed in the bay and mock it up to a tial v-band. (not a deal breaker....just wanted to collect parts and have it all mocked up, also something I think I would leave to a fabricator to do as I don't trust myself with ss/tig still)

[s14brent]

+1 on the kangaroo manifold, looks great and (probably) won't crack. I would have got one for my M20 if it was available at the time. Welcome to team turbo.

Thanks! It's going to be a while before officially part of the team. Just been making parts lists and the $$ amount keeps growing by the day!!

Any chance they're orings that were squished flat?
I have some cheap ebay version of that adapter and it came with orings. Not sure if that's just because it's a knockoff though lol

unfortunately no, but I actually got in touch with bimmerworld and they'll be sending me fresh pair of flat buna o-rings (2mm wide/13mm ID) along with the s54 oil diverter fitting for the housing.

[Northern]

Any chance they're orings that were squished flat?
I have some cheap ebay version of that adapter and it came with orings. Not sure if that's just because it's a knockoff though lol

[zwill23]

+1 on the kangaroo manifold, looks great and (probably) won't crack. I would have got one for my M20 if it was available at the time. Welcome to team turbo.

[s14brent]

My car has been sitting for a while. School, job, broken leg, kid, garage build have all taken a toll lol.
I'm not on E85. Would love to but I'd have to buy it by the barrel and that's over the line of what's worth it for me.

Re: the links/tapes, I'd probably try some clear packing tape with whatever edge sealer you try and see if it reacts. If the edge isn`t going to be exposed or painted, I would forego the tape and just cut the fuzzies, edge seal it, and just let the edge be a little bumpy.

I get it man, life gets busy!! I almost sold off this car a few times over the years, and am glad I held onto it as its one of the best stress relievers some how.

I think I will do the edge sealer and try to sand that lightly and to a few vinyl strip test-wraps. I just want it sealed as I don't think finding another kit will be really what I want to worry about down the line. I also dont care if its too bumpy to be honest, I just hope it wraps decently.

also does anyone know what kind of flat rubber washers are used on this bimmer world kit -AN fitting kit? I can't believe this was just thrown in with the motor. I wanted one of these for quite a while now, much easier to tap in an accusump to one of these vs the cap style!

[Northern]

My car has been sitting for a while. School, job, broken leg, kid, garage build have all taken a toll lol.
I'm not on E85. Would love to but I'd have to buy it by the barrel and that's over the line of what's worth it for me.

Re: the links/tapes, I'd probably try some clear packing tape with whatever edge sealer you try and see if it reacts. If the edge isn`t going to be exposed or painted, I would forego the tape and just cut the fuzzies, edge seal it, and just let the edge be a little bumpy.

[s14brent]

I like the RSI V2 and the cast kangaroo twinscroll manifold (haven't seen one used yet but seems promising)

I think there are a lot of turbo options out there now, and I'd try to spend some time deciding power goal and researching options.

Re: Kevlar fuzzies - how you sand will make a difference to how big the fuzzies are. It's been a while but at work I'd always use a die grinder and 2" roloc sanding disc and try to sand into the edge. seemed to make fewer fuzzies. An Olfa knife or similar sharp knife that lets you refresh the blade will be your friend for the rest of the fuzzies.

Once the fuzzies are gone, the sanded surface needs to be sealed (something like 3M Edge Sealer is ideal and the big cotton swab applicator makes it easy, but a krazy glue type of adhesive works in a pinch. I've used Loctite 404 in the past as well.) If it isn't sealed, the kevlar will wick up any water/oil that makes contact and slowly disbond.

Not sure how to reliably make a smooth edge this way though. Usually the paint shop would be paint the part and it would get a rubber edge seal afterward. Maybe some kind of tape, but short of https://www.3mcanada.ca/3M/en_CA/p/d/b40070583/ or https://www.3mcanada.ca/3M/en_CA/p/d/b40070623/ I don't know what would stick enough/not bond to the adhesive/not react or melt lol (and the linked options both sort of suck for different reasons)

RIGHT ON! Thanks for the valuable info! I'm going to be collecting parts for a while. I can't dump all the monies into it at once unfortunately. I'll check out the links shortly, but the edge sealer is something I was concerned about prior to wrapping! I'll check out the 2 links in a bit when i have more time.

As for turbos....i'm not putting on a $2k+ turbo, I'm liking the reviews from a few friends on the pulsar gtx3582 gen 2 however. There's a local 1jz guy who's been running it for a couple years now, and he beaaats on it! I've been more concerned about who's going to be able to tune this all said and done. Also, i haven't checked your thread in a while, but are you running e85/flex fuel?

[Northern]

I like the RSI V2 and the cast kangaroo twinscroll manifold (haven't seen one used yet but seems promising)

I think there are a lot of turbo options out there now, and I'd try to spend some time deciding power goal and researching options.

Re: Kevlar fuzzies - how you sand will make a difference to how big the fuzzies are. It's been a while but at work I'd always use a die grinder and 2" roloc sanding disc and try to sand into the edge. seemed to make fewer fuzzies. An Olfa knife or similar sharp knife that lets you refresh the blade will be your friend for the rest of the fuzzies.

Once the fuzzies are gone, the sanded surface needs to be sealed (something like 3M Edge Sealer is ideal and the big cotton swab applicator makes it easy, but a krazy glue type of adhesive works in a pinch. I've used Loctite 404 in the past as well.) If it isn't sealed, the kevlar will wick up any water/oil that makes contact and slowly disbond.

Not sure how to reliably make a smooth edge this way though. Usually the paint shop would be paint the part and it would get a rubber edge seal afterward. Maybe some kind of tape, but short of https://www.3mcanada.ca/3M/en_CA/p/d/b40070583/ or https://www.3mcanada.ca/3M/en_CA/p/d/b40070623/ I don't know what would stick enough/not bond to the adhesive/not react or melt lol (and the linked options both sort of suck for different reasons)

[s14brent]

well, this wasn't in the plans......I got a wild deal on an obd1 s52 long block with ces cutring/copper spacer and arp headstuds already installed. It also included an e46 oil filter housing, obd1 wiring harness, m50 manifold and a chipped 413 dme. I guess its time to look into 24v turbo things.....Is the RSI v2 manifold/tial 44mm wastegate and gtx3582 still a good quick spool combo?

[s14brent]

quick update from the last post. supercharger guy told me the soonest he could meet me was last week wednesday, but he marked it sold the night before. big sigh.....oh well, it saves me a chunk of change and downtime/fabrication for now. (I can revisit the whole power output issue at another time). I got bored and wanted to do a garage day since its been a while. I got in contact with a buddy of mine who finally had some time to help me fit my cliq tuning kit. I needed to test fit everything because I knew some trimming would be involved because of my angle kit/tire size selection. I also wanted him to fiberglass the 2pc sideskirts together. I did not like the way it looked with 3m double sided tape and didn't want to use any self tappers/fasteners down the middle since it was not as solid or stable as i preferred.. I didn't take too many pics during the process because of all the fiberglass/kevlar dust and sanding being sent up in the air. But I did have a lot to do when he started glassing. I started by cutting the corners off the OE bumper supports for clearance and the hardest part of it all, i had to chop the lower half of my front valence off..I cut it super clean, and it can probably be welded back on if I ever need it in the future I suppose. I also had to pull the muffler down since it was coming into contact with the new rear bumper. Surprisingly, the sheet metal radiator ducting and my ps cooler both cleared the front bumper perfectly! The PS cooler is perfectly aligned in one of the bumper openings.






The fitment isn't GREAT, but its' good-enough for my uses (also its the only kit out there that fits the whole "drift car" look.. Kevlar is crazy to cut through. If anyone knows a way to get rid of the hairs let me know. Sanding does not clean up the edges. The bumper fits onto the stock support like a glove after ends are shortened. It is really solid in that regard. Front and rear bumpers are held on by 2 quick latch bumper releases. These things are super cool. I really like how you can adjust the tension on the bumper pull with these. Definitely helped having helping hands during this. The side skirts are huge, I ended up using 5x m5 rivnuts to mount them. I have black hardware on order so it won't be as noticable.

The front bumper and fender side of the sideskirts all had to be radiused for wheel lock clearance as expected. I have the wheels turned to show the closest points going both L&R. at full lock there is a lot more clearance - which is perfect.


I do have to pull/reinstall the bumpers one more time to make the cuts for tow hook straps. I'm not sure if the old AKG tow hook will work up front but I'm for sure going to be running an OMP strap in the rear off the bumper shock. I kind of want to get a condor front tow strap but if the AKG works I'll use that. After tow hooks are all set and all the cuts are cleaned up, I'm actually going to pay someone to prep & wrap the cliq kit, and the wing for me. It's TOO hot right now, and I despise the thought of wrapping at this point. Also....I'm searching for a new muffler. My old vibrant muffler does not fit the new rear bumper. I will probably look for something a bit more obnoxious - grape fruit shooter or blast pipes as the muffler delete sound kind of matches the car.