I have an E 30.

[Nader393]

And here it is all buttoned up, again. This time, with the fresh, full thickness head using new Supertech valves and Schrick performance springs, Cometic MLS gasket, and reusing the 280/272 cam and HD rockers, mounted on a 2.9L block with Mahle Powerpak 10:1 pistons, but this time without the prior fenestrated throttle body. I'll get back to that in a second.



So, it's pretty damn great. Sounds a little different (I don't know why, maybe I corrected an intake or exhaust leak with this rebuild), and it's definitely faster, significantly, and without the pinging that scared me last time. I gave up some compression, but maybe the headwork improved flow? I dunno, but the car pulls hard especially from 3K and up. Still on a stock chip, will swap in the MarkD chip next. Still considering going to a Megasquirt PnP management system.

So about that throttle body with the hole in it. I think I understand why it's there. I had trouble dialing in a reasonable idle. Between the lumpy cam and the lightweight aluminum flywheel, the engine was prone to stalling. So I turned the set screw that adjusted the throttle plate to get a faster idle, but then the TPS would shut off, thereby deactivating the idle control valve (ICV), so I got the romping idle. Not enough play in the TPS slotted screw holes to clock in the slightly opened throttle plate. So I think that's why someone drilled into the throttle plate. In this case, I did some grinding on the TPS mounting slots to give more adjustment, but then this prevents the switch from shutting off again at full throttle. I still haven't dialed in the fuel pressure regulator with an air-fuel meter in case the mixture is wrong and affecting idle speed. Once I do that, and if I still have a tuning problem, then I may be forced to go with the Megasquirt to compensate.

[Nader393]

Speaking of porting, here's the difference in the intake manifolds. I've used this picture before, but since I'm buttoning things up, it's applicable again.





The gasket fitment is more telling:

[Nader393]

Going with a MLS gasket from Cometic. Cylinders are bored to 85 mm, so gasket is a hair over 86 mm. Standard thickness.







Here's the difference in porting between stock, mild job from Myster-E, and the latest from a local machine shop that does a lot of M20 engines.

[Nader393]

When watching Tom Cruise's version of "War of the Worlds" in the mid-Oughts, I remember the scenes in his house where he was building an engine in his kitchen. I thought to myself, that if I were single, I'd totally do that, too.



Turns out, it's a Ford V-8, probably for the hero car in the movie, an old Shelby GT350



Recalling this got me thinking about how this isn't the first time a Ford V8 is featured in a post-apocalyptic setting. Remember Will Smith's Shelby GT500 in "I Am Legend?"


Or how about a young Mel Gibson in Mad Max with his Ford Falcon, last of the V8 Interceptors?



Well, I also have a Ford V8 in the household (diesel Powerstroke), but it's staying in my truck, not coming into the house like in War of the Worlds. But with this slowly unfolding apocalypse, I CAN, and WILL build engines in my house like Tom Cruise's character did, regardless of my marital status. Behold: Three heads enter, but only one will leave! (kids, remember, don't be like me)

[moatilliatta]

Counsidense? I think not. Illuminati confirmed.

[e30austin]

holy shit. that is quite impressive. i have a feeling that may have something to do with your random detonation issues... how disheartening. glad to hear you are sticking with it.

[Nader393]

It's been a minute. I finally decided to start the hassle of swapping out the excessively shaved head that was giving me too much compression (to the point of detonation). Last winter, I had a stock head rebuilt and ported by a reliable machine shop, using fresh Supertech valves and Schrick performance springs. Big delay in getting the valves because of supply chain problems during the pandemic.




While disassembling the top end, I pulled the disconnected the throttle body and discovered this. Anyone see the problem?



Anyone?





























Closer look:





WTF is wrong with people? Who would do this? I now have enough spare parts, that I can't track down where this throttle body came from. Three potential sources. Disappointing. Adding insult to injury, the hole is shittily drilled unround. Morons. And why didn't I notice this when I reassembled the new engine? Who knows WTF this did with my idle and tuning issues? Maybe I'm totally off-base, and just exposed a tuning secret that unleashes 20 more HP at idle. Never mind that there are already set screws to adjust throttle the plate opening for the same effect...

[Nader393]

Did you have any info on AFR? maybe it was just lean?
Seems like >10.0:1 on the M20 is hit or miss with pinging anyway, but if you're going to be switching to a standalone soon, there's no reason to not install a wideband O2 setup beforehand and get some info?

I do, in fact, have an Innovate LM-2 wideband AFR meter. Since I dialed in copious fuel on the adjustable fuel pressure regulator, the engine is running pig-rich. Usually getting between 10.5 (low RPM cruising) to 12.5 (higher RPM, under load).






Fuel economy? Bwahahahahah!!!!




Anyway, the car is continuing to run well well, thanks to the stock chip. I'm trying to decide if I want to keep this current 280/274 Bimmerhead cam when I get the new head done, or put the Schrick 284 cam in it from the other 2.7 SETA stroker sitting in my shed. OTOH, this current shaved head with the high compression might put the Schrick 284 to better use on whatever engine uses it. The Schrick didn't have great low and midrange power on that other relatively underdeveloped SETA stroker. I'm feeling a combination of "option paralysis" and "paralysis by analysis."

Eff this! These are stupid first-world problems for a nobody building up an obsolete, mildly interesting old commuter car. If I were a better husband, I'd spend some of this mental energy on romancing my wife. If I were a better dad, I'd be spending this time on my kids. I think that's my answer. I'm going to forget about this stuff for a while. At least until the new head is ready. Besides, I have an old motorcycle in my living room that needs my attention, and the cat is giving me dirty looks to button up this mess. Then, it'll be family time. Yeah, that's it. :

[Northern]

Also,

Speaking of cheap tools (and hypocrisy), check out how I lower property values in my fancy neighborhood. Everything is there; Harbor Freight hoist, blue tarp, plywood, dead lawn, rusty 4X4... only things missing are cinder blocks under the car instead of the fancy lift. Anyhoo, neighbors can thank me later when their pleasantly-lower-than-expected property tax bills are due.

Christ, I've never been called out like this before on r3v.

[Northern]

Did you have any info on AFR? maybe it was just lean?
Seems like >10.0:1 on the M20 is hit or miss with pinging anyway, but if you're going to be switching to a standalone soon, there's no reason to not install a wideband O2 setup beforehand and get some info?

[Nader393]

I got the stock chip from Moldova. It's an small Eastern European country between Romania and Ukraine.




A Moldovian there sells BMW ECU programs and chips on eBay. So I got a stock chip from him for about $20. A few weeks later, I received it. Just installed it, and dayum!, it fixed the pinging. That MarkD/E.A.T. chip that I was using must have pushed the ignition timing beyond what the compression ratio could handle. So now with the stock program, the car is running well. I don't know if the stock chip cares that there is a bigger cam, bigger pistons, and bigger injectors. I'm surely leaving power on the table without formal tuning. Here is a pic of the Moldovian chip swapped in.





While waiting on the Moldovian chip, I took a spare head from my basement back to the machine shop. This head was the one that came on the car's original engine (faux Metric Mechanic 2.9 that turned out to be a poorly assembled stock engine). I was impressed with how this machine shop did the bottom end boring and assembly, and am now a returning customer. Figured I've gone this far and should just go all the way and have an excellent engine from top to bottom. Which now means that I've spent another $600 or so on new Schrick valve springs and Supertech valves. After all this, I might as well go with a Megasquirt PnP for live dyno tuning. That might be a Spring/Summer project. I have to turn my attention to my vintage motorcycle and car racing projects before race season begins.

[twright]

Have you considered water injection? It might fix your problem.

Here's one system: https://sportcompactwarehouse.com/sn...gsID=p1369592&

There are other ones available.

[rzerob]

I am sorry to hear man. Speaking the obvious, that really sucks. I always lose when I go for the long shot or the hail mary, always. But I still go for it. That is part of the game. You take chances and you lose sometime. With as much time and money you have into it, my suggestion is to park it and take a break until after the new year. By then you could have the other head ready to go.

[Northern]

A bandaid for now might be to run an octane booster like VP Octanium or Boostane Professional

Can you still get 2.05mm O/S gaskets for M20s? ( I see Ajusa brand ones on rockauto, hopefully elring/goetze branded ones available from somewhere else) Might be enough of a drop, and saves you the headache of an MLS

[2mAn]

My options now are:

D. Run 100 octane AV-gas from local airport. Cost $4.75/gallon, and recurring hassle.

I rarely ask for advice, but I'm tired of thinking about this. What say you?

Try option D, but I think with your setup you will need a custom chip burned by someone who knows what they're doing, but likely need a better ECU to make adaptations to the mods you've done.