Hoffbro's Brilliantrot Turbo

[Hoffbrohaus]

Exhaust on YouTube. Crappy GoPro audio though.

https://youtu.be/q5Fm00mcRO8?si=vNq3aiRGsbxNhsDN

[Panici]

Nice choice on the muffler, it sounds good in the video.
I miss my M20's lumpy idle, the newer 24v motors just don't have that same character.

I've got a Dynomax Super Turbo on mine, but the 14" version (17744). Switched out from a magnaflow that had too much drone.


It doesn't help a whole lot for an M20, but here is how I added vac/boost sources on my M50 manifold. Perhaps you can do something similar?
I've actually been meaning to go back and add some more fittings, perhaps even one per component for reliability sake.
At very least having dedicated lines to the ECU, FPR, and wastegates would help keep things safe.

I'm most sketched out about my tee'd vac line to my ECU for the vintage VDO boost gauge I have.

[Hoffbrohaus]

So I added 2 new vacuum sources.

Here I'm running the BOV from the throttle body.





Then this 6mm port right after the turbo compressor for the wastegate. Don't worry that hose isn't normally bent that much. Disconnected from the ebc tee and went direct to wastegate for a test...more on that in a bit.



And the megasquirt is coming off the back of the intake plenum.



So now the problem I'm trying to figure out. I'm only getting a max of 2.5psi according to tuner studio with a 6psi spring in the wastegate.

1. Tried direct line to wg. Bypassing the ebc. Same result
2. Disconnected megasquirt vac line and blew air in from air compressor set at 5psi. Tuner studio read it accurately. No kink in line to MS
3. Took off wastegate completely and applied air, only started opening at 6psi.
4. Hooked up 2in pvc cap into intercooler piping and blew compressed air in at 6psi. Tried cranking it up a little to try to find leaks. Only 1 small leak from icv that I can't believe would loose half the boost.

The icv is leaking out of these little slots. What should I do about that?


So 1st question is, could I still have a boost leak and just need to push more air in to find it? Is it safe? I thought I read something about putting too much psi in without the engine running could do something to seals?

2nd, even though the wastegate only opened when I applied 6psi from the air compressor, could it be opening up sooner when mounted on my manifold? Like the exhaust pressure is pushing it open?

Or worse, could I really be loosing half my boost because of 90degree bends and a shirty intercooler?

Next test I'll completely disconnect the vac lines from the WG to see if it just builds boost past 2.5psi.

[Hoffbrohaus]

Ran it without a vacuum tube attached to the WG. Built plenty of boost, so this tells me the turbo is fine and pretty sure the WG is fine.

So back to the hunt for a boost leak. Hooking up my air compressor to my piping I only hear a leak at the icv. So I took the icv out and plugged the hole in the throttle body and the elbow of my intake pipe. I couldn't hear any leaks but was still not getting the 6 PSI I set the air compressor at. More like 3.5 to 4 PSI.

One thing I keep noticing though when I do this is the smell of gas. Could the injectors leak boost if not seated properly? Or should I realistically expect 3psi or so of pressure loss just due to my bends and intercooler? If this is the case then I'd want a 9psi spring in the WG to get 6psi to the intake. Or put the WG signal back on the intake.

[Panici]

If you reference the wastegate off the compressor housing, you don't account for the losses in the intake and intercooler.

General consensus is that a reference right before the throttle body is best to make up for these losses.

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Personally (with a larger turbo), I like a reference post-throttle body for the gates.
This gets the turbo spooled up hard when it's working to build boost against a partially closed throttle blade.
When you wack the throttle open and you're already past the boost threshold RPM, you have instant torque.

I wouldn't run this way with a small turbo that is always making boost, as you're working it needlessly hard.

[Dj Buttchug]

I would see if you can get your hands on a smoke tester machine to help you with finding leaks. Pump the whole system full and watch for the smoke trails. It can be difficult to find with just compressed air as you are listening for leaks and spraying soapy water all over looking for bubbles.

[McGyver]

I would see if you can get your hands on a smoke tester machine to help you with finding leaks. Pump the whole system full and watch for the smoke trails. It can be difficult to find with just compressed air as you are listening for leaks and spraying soapy water all over looking for bubbles.

I've been looking for a decent entry level smoke tester for leak testing, any suggestions would be awesome. I used one of these at a shop and loved it, but it's way too expensive for home hobby work. https://redlinedetection.com/product...pro-total-tech

I really want one that can function at low pressure for evap testing (1-3 psi) and higher pressures for boost pipe testing (5-15psi). I also want have a flow gauge to see how large the leak is. From what I can find, there are two options:

1. Built In Pump - Most of these operate around 10psi and the pressure can't be regulated
2. Requires Air Compressor - This seems like a better option, assuming you have a pressure regulator that can operate between 0-5psi.

[Hoffbrohaus]

I would see if you can get your hands on a smoke tester machine to help you with finding leaks. Pump the whole system full and watch for the smoke trails. It can be difficult to find with just compressed air as you are listening for leaks and spraying soapy water all over looking for bubbles.

I might just have to do this, it's driving me crazy. I think I find the source and it doesn't change anything. This morning I plugged the charge pipe, so I was just pressurizing the intercooler piping from hot to cold side. Found the BOV was leaking air with the 3.5lb spring. or maybe it wasn't seated right, either way I replaced it with a 9lb spring, no leak.

Thinking i did it, I hooked it all back up again, but still only getting 3-4psi out of 7 to the intake manifold. Sprayed some soapy water around the throttle body and got bubbles from the e36 TPS. and still getting air out of the ICV housing. I just can't believe those little leaks would lose 3-4psi.

What do you guys do with the ICV?

[Dj Buttchug]

Ive been using an amazon special smoke tester and it has worked out really well. It doesnt have a flow gauge nor does it have a way to regulate pressure. I dont think the extra options are really needed as I was able to find several leaks in my charge pipe couplers as well as my brake booster lines ect. The thing cost me $30 bucks and a quick trip to a grocery store for some baby oil.


On the subject of BOV leaks I ran into this as well. I did not change my spring but I did use compressed air to pressurize the valve to stimulate under boost conditions. This forced the valve flange down and stopped my leaks in the ebay special bov I was using.

For the ICV testing I used the smoker and pumped the intake up post throttle plate. Flushed out all the issues real quick.

I will mention to that my charge piping on my e34 will pressurize up to about 13-16 psi and then bleeds off rather quick. There are no apparent leaks I can find... In any case, the use of the smoke machine has drastically improved my boost pressure when driving. I did the same procedure on my E30 and got the same results. Worth the $$ imo

[Hoffbrohaus]

Ive been using an amazon special smoke tester and it has worked out really well. It doesnt have a flow gauge nor does it have a way to regulate pressure. I dont think the extra options are really needed as I was able to find several leaks in my charge pipe couplers as well as my brake booster lines ect. The thing cost me $30 bucks and a quick trip to a grocery store for some baby oil.

Is this what you are talking about? only one I could find for $30. scratch that, it looks like it's only a diaphram to use with a smoke machine. I can't find one for $30

On the subject of BOV leaks I ran into this as well. I did not change my spring but I did use compressed air to pressurize the valve to stimulate under boost conditions. This forced the valve flange down and stopped my leaks in the ebay special bov I was using.

Duh! I feel dumb. Witht he pipe plugged before the throttle body the BOV isn't getting pressure pushing the spring down. I may switch back to the 3psi spring if i get surge again.

For the ICV testing I used the smoker and pumped the intake up post throttle plate. Flushed out all the issues real quick.

What do I do about the ICV issues? I already know it is leaking out of the body of the ICV, the little rectangular slots, wth am i supposed to do about that? Seal them with duct tape? I also found the 1 way check valve under the throttle body for the gas tank evap is passing air. The spring is too weak. I may try to get a stiffer spring or find a check valve that is stronger, haven't found one yet.

[Dj Buttchug]

I havent run into an ICV leaking out of the housing. I wonder if youd need to swap it out for another and test.


This is the one I have. Mistake on price my bad. It looks like it is selling now for $79. The reason I thought it was $30 was because I had amazon credit that went towards it.
Amazon.com: AA009 Car Fuel Leak Detectors, Diagnostic, Automotive Fuel Pipe System Leak Tester with EVAP System for all cars, motorcycles, snowmobiles, ATV, light trucks, boats : Automotive

[Hoffbrohaus]

Bought a smoke tester. This one

Solary Automotive Smoke Machine Leak Detector - 12V DC EVAP Vacuum Diagnostic Tester for Pipe System https://a.co/d/e14c2Gy

Pumps a lot of smoke with baby oil and has its own air pump so you don't need your air compressor.



Good news is I had no smoke coming out of anything with the icv plugged up when running it through the intercooler to the intake mani.

Bad news is I have a leak in the turbo compressor housing. Although I don't think this would cause low boost at the manifold. I read online that old garrets can do this and some copper gasket should fix it. Dunno. 1 step at a time, I'll fix this and then see where I'm at with boost at the intake mani.

[Dj Buttchug]

Nice.
Just go one smoke trail at a time so you dont get overwhelmed.

[varg]

There is a thin ring gasket that goes between the backing plate and compressor housing on T3s, I have never seen it on another type of turbo.

[Hoffbrohaus]

After all the troubleshooting and leak testing I took it to the tuner again. The wastegate has a combo of 11psi springs in it but opens at 6psi. Still don't know why but at least it's manageable now and the EBC works.

So he ran it at 6 psi and we worked our way up. Stopped at 12psi, best he could get was 272hp 284ft lbs. Says it's taking the turbo too long to build boost. Not hitting peak boost until 4200 rpm. Hard to see but I took a quick picture.


So do you guys think the turbo is crappy since I bought it used? T304e .63 A/R. Noticed at high rpms I was puffing white smoke, like the turbo was passing/burning oil.

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