Strict budget, slow restoration. *Now with moar budget*

[Wh33lhop]

I didn't know that about the r888 needing more heat. That's good to know. I'm getting the same impression of the v710's i've been autocrossing on. They work great on 85* summer afternoons, always needing at least one run to get up to temp, but at the last event (55* day) they just didn't seem to stay hot enough. I'm strongly considering ditching them for some rivals.

I'm planning on getting the akg 12mm subframe riser bushings, but am on the fence about getting the toe and camber adjusters. I'm constantly see people saying they get bumped out of adjustment. Would you say they're more hassle then they're worth? Or are they necessary in addition the riser bushings to get a good rear alignment?

V710 is primarily an autocross tire from my understanding, so its temperature window should be condusive to such.

Honestly I would advise against an adjustable subframe with risers. I am planning on swapping mine back out for a stock one soon because 1) they fucking slip, and 2) they fucking suck to adjust with the risers. I have some posi-lock style adjusters which should help the slipping issue if I'm not happy with the alignment with a stock subframe. In theory, the risers give you back about a half degree of camber at any given ride height. However you will raise the rear of the car if you keep the same ride height adjustment, so that's something to think about if you're at the edge of adjustment or if you don't have adjustable ride height. Toe gain seems to be exponential in the rear, so risers should help considerably with that. I'll report back when I have the stock subframe on the car.

[JCarp90]

Bored at work so I read your thread. Fucking awesome.

I like your hobag.

[tinkerputzer]

Rivals would be better for autox for two main reasons.

One, the R888 is primarily a track tire. That means it's sticky but it's meant to operate at higher temps (see Hoosier A6 vs. R6).

Two, the American compound R888 ("GG" compound) is 100 treadwear. That means it's not considered a street tire by SCCA rules and you will be thrown in a class with slicks.

If you want to track, they are great because you can sometimes find the 205s for cheap (my last two sets of 205s have been bought for $400-500 shipped brand new though they retail for >$600). They do fit better on an 8" wheel but you can slap em on a 7 just fine. I hear RA1s are the better tire but I keep finding deals on R888s.

For DD, they are fine, they just don't last long, will heat cycle out faster and they have some noticeable tread hum over most surfaces.

I didn't know that about the r888 needing more heat. That's good to know. I'm getting the same impression of the v710's i've been autocrossing on. They work great on 85* summer afternoons, always needing at least one run to get up to temp, but at the last event (55* day) they just didn't seem to stay hot enough. I'm strongly considering ditching them for some rivals.

I'm planning on getting the akg 12mm subframe riser bushings, but am on the fence about getting the toe and camber adjusters. I'm constantly see people saying they get bumped out of adjustment. Would you say they're more hassle then they're worth? Or are they necessary in addition the riser bushings to get a good rear alignment?

[Wh33lhop]

Those 205/50 r888's look like a pretty good match for an 8. Not over or under stretched just nice and square. How do you like them as a dd/autocross tire? I'm trying to decide between them and the rival for my next set.

Rivals would be better for autox for two main reasons.

One, the R888 is primarily a track tire. That means it's sticky but it's meant to operate at higher temps (see Hoosier A6 vs. R6).

Two, the American compound R888 ("GG" compound) is 100 treadwear. That means it's not considered a street tire by SCCA rules and you will be thrown in a class with slicks.

If you want to track, they are great because you can sometimes find the 205s for cheap (my last two sets of 205s have been bought for $400-500 shipped brand new though they retail for >$600). They do fit better on an 8" wheel but you can slap em on a 7 just fine. I hear RA1s are the better tire but I keep finding deals on R888s.

For DD, they are fine, they just don't last long, will heat cycle out faster and they have some noticeable tread hum over most surfaces.

How 'bout dem waffles, cool guy?

waffleswaffleswaffleswaffles.

[cyberkaa]

My tires rotate every time I drive the car. How 'bout dem waffles, cool guy?

[tinkerputzer]

Those 205/50 r888's look like a pretty good match for an 8. Not over or under stretched just nice and square. How do you like them as a dd/autocross tire? I'm trying to decide between them and the rival for my next set.

[Wh33lhop]

Rotating tires



This is how soft R888s are



Raised the front a bit, tired of bottoming out and bump steer



Now kiss!



Sortaflush... offset is something

nice arms bro

thanks bro I flexed extra hard for you trying to get that 10mm nut off (;D)

Did the S50 cams make much of a difference? Worth the money? What are you doing for tuning?

They made a good amount of difference--stock M50V isn't much of a high-end motor. S50 cams make it sing a lot more up there. If I stuck with the stock cams I would probably hate it since the NV was more exciting to wring out. The cams are worth about 20whp and it really comes alive at 5k instead of wheezing out shortly thereafter; also seems they made the intake sound more aggressive.

Just a TRM chip.

did you figure out the over heating issue?

Yep it seems fine for now. And it's not my baby, it's my dirty hobag.

Hey man!!! Never saw your thread till now...did I drive your car when it was on the 600/780 or 450/650? Its Branden, from the Food Truck Meet, you drove my car too if you remember haha.

I remember you dude. You drove it with the higher rates on it, but the rears were riding on the bump stops and the front was too low. You can drive it again if you like, now that it has suspension travel. Way less bounce.

QUESTION: With about a 50/50 (Ok maybe 54/46?) weight distribution. And the rear springs in-set to the rear a-arms....I'm surprise that most guys don't run a much higher spring rate in the rear.. Like a 600/900. or 600/1200 (I don't know - just asking for learning)

It's been my understanding through observation that you typically want a higher front wheel rate (natural frequency) than rear. I can't give you an exact reason but I haven't seen a single setup that has a higher rear wheel rate. It'd be interesting to discuss this at length but I don't have any particular theoretical answer right now.

FWIW the motion ratio of the rear is about ~.65:1, so my rear wheel rate is about 780*.65^2 = 330lbs/in, whereas the front is more like 500-550lbs/in.

[george graves]

Yep. I felt 450/600 was too soft when I put the R888s on before, so now it's 600/780.

QUESTION: With about a 50/50 (Ok maybe 54/46?) weight distribution. And the rear springs in-set to the rear a-arms....I'm surprise that most guys don't run a much higher spring rate in the rear.. Like a 600/900. or 600/1200 (I don't know - just asking for learning)

[0203]

nice build!

[88SuperETABD]

Hey man!!! Never saw your thread till now...did I drive your car when it was on the 600/780 or 450/650? Its Branden, from the Food Truck Meet, you drove my car too if you remember haha.

[Cabriolet]

Yep. I felt 450/600 was too soft when I put the R888s on before, so now it's 600/780.

this is so true. for a good track rate like your baby. you need to be way higher than the 450. esp with the weight of the M50.

did you figure out the over heating issue?

[cyberkaa]

**bear arms**

His arms are pretty hairy, I guess.

[AndrewBird]

Did the S50 cams make much of a difference? Worth the money? What are you doing for tuning?

[phreshkid]

He exercises his Constitutional right to bare arms.

**bear arms**

[cyberkaa]

He exercises his Constitutional right to bare arms.