My SuperEta. About to get a lil more Super!

[88SuperETABD]

Small update...I have a gang of parts to install now, just have no time to do it.
Things to Install
-------------------
-Miller 3" MAF/W.A.R. Chip
-Sparco Front Strut Brace
-Wheel Stud Kits (Front and Rear)
-Adjustable Cam Gear
-m50 injectors
-replace soft brake lines above rear subframe with stainless braided lines
-MTX-L Wideband/Narrowband with AFR Gauge.
What's coming next
--------------------
Adjustability in the rear, weld in camber/toe adjusters (not yet purchased)
New RTA Bushings and Subframe bushings.
Convert to the mounting of front sway bar to m3 style droplinks.

Question on that, I have the shortened struts from gc and they welded on those reinforcement plates on the strut. Do I have to get an m3 sway bar? Or can i just buy the m3 droplinks and they should work with my current sway bar? For example the IE Adjustable drop links m3 style?

Heres a couple pics i snapped in front of my work after a wash. (was waiting for my coworkers to come back from lunch)



Also, don't remember if i mentioned I got new tints for the front windows, 50%. 5% on the back 3 has been there.

Also, installed the WAR CHIP software and played around with it. Can't start my tuning tho until I install my wideband.


And something I'm proud of :) After changing my fuel filter, cap/rotor, spark plugs, etc. I got some more mPg! +1.5mpg for 250$ worth of maintenance items, and I can stop so much better!

This was mainly freeway, some city, but normally my mpg is at 21-22. So I am happy :)

[dball4]

Dual boot. Very nice.

[88SuperETABD]

Kinda cool info. Dunno the exact accuracy, but getting the same numbers multiple times with different devices.

Met up with a local e30 enthusiast to check out his 185whp/200wtq stroker m20 and he had some sorta device that plugs into your ciggarette lighter and estimates your whp afer imputing a buncha data. Then out of curiousity for exactness, I used the "dynolicious" app on my iPhone which claims to be accurate to <2whp...

My motor put down about 151whp (Dyno numbers should be higher because of WindResistance). Pretty good for a nearly 300k mile motor :)
When I install all my parts I have and get a decent tune going on my WAR Chip, I will take it to a real dyno.

Edit: Numbers should be higher now that I found out I never really had WOT and vacuum leaks are now fixed

[Alberthype]

I thought you said you didn't have a build thread lol

[88SuperETABD]

Did I say that? Well I do, haha.

Update...

Installed my Sparco Strut Brace, and my front wheel studs. And changed out my vacuum hoses which fixed my vacuum leak. Also found that my throttle cable was not adjusted properly. (was way too loose, and actually prevented me from ever reaching WOT) And now That those things are done, OMG My car feels completely different, the pedal response and acceleration is so much better, I actually get wheel spin when shifting into 2nd, not just a chirp.
Tomorrow I will be installing my rear wheel studs, getting an alignment, and depending on how I feel, maybe install my Wideband so I can then install the MAF/WAR Chip.
Onto the pics.




I can't believe I barely rub, only on HARD Cornering, and only on the left side because the fender liner there is hanging down a bit, right doesnt rub at all.

[Pantless Spency]

this car is beautiful!

[88SuperETABD]

So, I'm kinda sick, so only a small update. Installed rear studs, went from 10 to 20 mm spacers, I like how they fit, no rubbing still, but more flush :P. Im happy. And the wheel studs look waaaaay better than my old nasty lug bolts.




Now whats left is:
Wideband, m50 injectors, Miller MAF/War Chip, and adjustable cam gear and learn how to use the miller tuning.

[MR 325]

Fitment looks good with the 20's on there!

[88SuperETABD]

So, I've been trying to get an alignment for like 3 weeks, been so busy, and dealing with firestone's bullshit. Then when I find a place that said I wasn't too low for an alignment, they can't do it because my tie rod adjuster was siezed up. So today I put in new tie rods (lemfoerder, thanks blunt), installed my m3 adjustable drop links from IE, and monday I will be pressing in my new M3 Offset CAB's, then finally tuesday getting my alignment :).

Question: Whats the proper way to adjust these drop links...I want the sway bar parallel to the ground right? Isn't the most effective geometry a 90° angle? The way the drop link mounts the m3 way, its not 90° with the ground, if you know what im saying, I've adjusted the swaybar drop link to be 90° with its mounting point, but not the ground, its at about a 10° angle with the ground, seems like its working better than before, but then again my old drop links were torn up.
Whats the proper way to adjust it so I avoid "preloading" etc.
I felt like if I was to adjust it longer i'd eventually just unthread the rod end, so i stopped where its 90°*with its upper pick up point.

Someone please chime in, heres some pics to help clarify i hope.


Heres the old way to the control arm.

All my parts :)

Also got rid of the stupid LED's that I tried in the dash, didn't light of for crap, so got the brightest bulbs i could from kragen. Looks great :)

And fixed the one HID, i had out, and snapped a couple pics, Visibility is awesome,
DDM Slim Ballast Raptor Kits, 3000k Fogs, 5000k Low beams.




Once again, please inform me of the proper way to adjust drop links. I will call IE monday, but don't wanna damage anything driving this way.

[88SuperETABD]

Also, did I install them upside down? Theres no difference to me in which side should be up. Theres a silver rod end and a bronze rod end, which is up. Kinda annoyed that IE would provide NO instruction of install or adjusting along with their product, Theres no marking or anything that says top or bottom,

[ZenkiOwns]

Car looks great! I have a SETA as well and I love it so much more than when it was a 2.5

How how are the 460/550 rates?

I had a set that sat forever, but I ending up getting rid of them before install.

[88SuperETABD]

The 450/650 rates are fine, I daily it, doesn't bother me much at all, nOr my gf doesn't complain other than its hard to get in/out of my car cuz its low and the recaros.

And I spoke to IE and he set me straight on the drop links, turns out I did install them correctly.

My car is now all tightened up up front and aligned, next will be to tackle the rear.

[88SuperETABD]

Pay Day! So I ordered these Headers, http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-E30-325i...r#ht_996wt_955

Can't wait, will also being ordering some RTABs and Rear Subframe Bushings. (Lemfoarder), and thinking about getting the rear camber/toe adjusters as well.

[2mAn]

cool car. i just went through the whole thread. car has come along nicely. i think some euro trim will make the car look that much better, other than that you're doing it right

[88SuperETABD]

Agreed, I like the euro trim, and would get it, but its 200$ and I dont have a plastic rear bumper yet, I kinda like the clear turn signals as well tho.

Small Update:
-Fixed my OBC light bar by soldering in LED's and a resistor, very easy to do, if you guys have no lights for your obc. Never sautered before and it worked. 6$ from radioshack, got me 4 leds and like 20 resistors (smallest pack). and 4$ soldering iron from Harbor Freight.
-Had my rear tires flipped (Dismounted and remounted and balanced), I have like 2" of straight bald tire. (-3.7° camber wear).
-New carbon fiber Hood Emblem. (better quality than the stupid stickers. Looks like real CF, but I doubt it is, inside the emblem you can see its raised. Will get pics.