e30guydownunder: Project M42, probs definitely got more power than your S50

[gearheadE30]

Good to know on the intake. Forgot about that pesky 180 degree turn. I've heard that using the e36 manifold interferes with the stock brake booster, fwiw.

[e30guydownunder]

Thanks for the input.

Straight from DaviesCraig Website. http://www.daviescraig.com.au/Electr...P-content.aspx

Question No. 11
Is the idea that coolant can pass too quickly through a radiator true?
The "pump too fast lose less heat” notion is very popular and many experienced mechanics are very attached to it but – it is a fallacy. Davies Craig has been carrying out research and development for over a decade on a number of projects and has never been able to pump genuine liquid coolant faster and lose less heat. In all car engines, when the mechanical pump reaches cavitation speed, coolant turns into a gaseous state which is compressible,(liquid is not) and the real flow rate of liquid coolant drops even though the mechanical pump has a higher rpm, and so heat loss drops. The engine temp then rises. And it only seems like the flow rate is too fast, and the coolant is spending too little time in the radiator to lose its heat etc. etc..

Question No. 12
My vehicle is fitted with a thermostat bypass what should I do when I wish to replace the existing mechanical water pump with an EWP®?
Where there is a thermostat bypass in some engines including those produced by BMW & ROVER, there may be a bypass from the thermostat housing back to the water pump chamber so when the thermostat is fully closed, coolant passes directly from the engine block to the thermostat housing and then straight back to the block without passing through the radiator. When fitting your EWP® to an engine which uses a bypass valve style thermostat, after you have removed the thermostat, you will need to block off the bypass passage (with a core plug or similar), to prevent flow from your EWP passing directly back to the radiator without passing through the block.

I am using the controller and pump kit. The controller vaires the on/off time of the pump to change the flow characteristics in order for the water temp to come up quickly and then be maintained. My controller is also one of the later model ones which controls the fan as well.

[SA E30]

I've also been pondering using an electric waterpump like the one you are on my turbo m10 build.

From what I was told by a friend (running it on a Ford Small block), is that he just removed the pump and t-stat. Hooked the new electric water pump up to the lower radiator hose. He's never had a days trouble.

Thing that makes me think though is that will create constant water flow through the radiator, so wouldn't it mean it would take longer to get the engine up to temp?

[e30guydownunder]

Mostly it was what I had spare to use in the front cut. of course that has since changed, but a few other points.

The E30 M42 manifold has been proven to be an inlet restriction, reverse flow (180 degree flow direction changes) are not good! This is a bit nicer in that respect.

It was also easier to adapt this to take the M30 throttle body, all I did was hack the front / old flange off and make up a new one :)

I won't be running the inlet flappy valve as the engine is always above 3500rpm anyhow so the valve would not affect / improve the driveability of this car.

[gearheadE30]

What prompted the use of the e36 intake manifold?

[e30guydownunder]

Yeh I'm going to have to look into it by the sounds. I have a workshop training manual at home that might share some more information.

I bought a Pump and Controller kit. The controller also runs the fan. The controller varies the pump / fan to maintain a user defined temperature. So I guess it is variable in that sense. My thinking behind it is you can still cycle the cooling system after the engine is shutdown, cooling it down properly, an issue present in the Track environment.

[jakeb]

I have done a bunch of m42 swaps into 2002s. On one of them I plugged that line thinking it wouldn't matter but then changed it so it pulled from the bottom of the radiator.....as it was really the only option. It works but the car runs a little cooler than it should.

The best option is to run a stock m42 radiator.....or at least something that always overflows to a small tank and then the line we are talking about picks up from there.

From what I understand that is the draw return from the radiator when the tstat is closed. So you must have that connected to draw coolant from the radiator otherwise the waterpump won't have any coolant unless the tstat is open. Or if you get rid of it all together.

I also wouldn't shut the pump off completly....can you vary the speed with the electric pump? What is the reason to run an electric pump btw?

[e30guydownunder]

cheers.

jakeb that is something I have been doing alot of thinking about lately. With the install of an electric water pump and controller the Water pump will be removed and maybe even the thermostat. But first i need to work out exactly how the system works. Googling isn't proving very successful and seems to be not something commonly dealt with.

My initial thinking had been to run the line you are talking about to the turbo cooling inlet and then a line from the outlet to the top of the radiator. Now I am concerned there isn't any distinctive flow along this line (arrow goes both ways on the realoem diagram).

If you have any insight into this that would be appreciated :)

[matias88e30]

Shit.. awesome build man! that front clip pic its sick

[jakeb]

nice build!!

What are you doing with the water return hose that goes from the pipe along the drivers side of the block back to the bottom of the overflow tank on the radiator? Are you just going to plug it? I was under the understanding that that was where the engine pulled all it's coolant until the tstat was open....

[e30guydownunder]

a good wizard never reveals his tricks, respect -10 points

[Iain]

Tis not mine. I cannot claim that genius!

[e30guydownunder]

i saw that in the webber box just as i was shutting down to leave work. fuck your a creative waffleswaffleswaffleswaffles

[Iain]

The angry ape is a complicated and twisted sexual act; it requires a willing man and a sometimes unwilling dwarf, midget, or downie. To complete this unimaginable deed, one first probes the female's vagina with both fists in the doggy style position, and then proceeds to insert the hard on into the anus, whether it is clean or dirty, shaven or hairy. Once in this position, the male has entered the hunched-over ape stance that gives this act its name, and only needs to proceed with fucking both the anus with the erect penis and the vagina with the fists. While doing the female, it is a requirement but usually a side effect to make inhumane apelike noises. Once orgasm has been attained, discarding of the female to the proper trash receptacle is recommended.

[e30guydownunder]

Postman stopped by with a few things today: