Does anybody have a set of late model bulb holders they want to donate or sell cheaply? PM me, let me know how much shipped. My trip to the windsor pick n pull didn't have any left, all I got was the harness side plug that goes into the lenses.
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Found the culprit despite being how it is "supposed" to be wired...
I will be rerouting the brake switch b+ side in the fuse box from the hazard/stop fuse, to the unused fuel pump #1 fuse output. I am powering the fuel pump by the fp relay in the engine harness. n order to get the third brake light to be on the right track, originally the brake switch output was connected to the turn signal flasher b+ wire, which was going to cause problems in itself I think. Anyway, change the brake switch b+ input, and instead of going to the turn signal switch with the other side (wtf?), to rear brake lights. Third brake light is spliced into the open/close side of the brake switch already. Now I need to run two more wires to the trunk for the real brake lights. Turn signals are only the turns again.Comment
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I sincerely hope i never really need to do any new wiring or serious trouble shooting on this thing especially under the dash. Mostly containable with zipties but it will be nearly impossible to follow wire colors once it is bound up. Besides, im using a lot of the scrap wiring where it fits, so wires might change colors on me too. Hmm
So, Ive installed my "chunk of speedometer pcb" and wired through to the c101 for the ecu's speed input, and after a 1k pullup resistor on 12v the wheel speed input to my dash 2.
Like this, but messier in real life... I think I've got it right. I hope so!
I also wired in a bezeled led for a check engine light, and will add another to display the oil pressure switch, until I get a pressure sensor and make use of another analog input on the dash2.Last edited by Justin B; 06-11-2011, 10:11 PM.Comment
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I got the speed sensor wired up, heres the chunk of stck speedometer that im keeping...
I also wired in the CEL (bottom in the bezel) and oil pressure switch light (above)
I need to wire the pullup in for my water temp sensor and hook up my charge warning light on my dash2 to c101 pin 1 that goes to the alternator. I have a wire labelled alternator excitor hooked up to pin 1 currently that comes from the fuse box. I believe I just need to splice the alt charge light into that wire as it is, but ill have to check the schematics manual again and exactly what that alt wire is coming from in the box.Comment
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Water temp has the +5v ref from the dash2 with a 1k resistor, and the charge light is wired in place as above.
What is left in the wiring world is terminating wires for head and tail lights including still running wires for brake lights, fogs, and two big red wires in the engine bay-one to the alt output post, and one to the b+ source .... And third brake light.Comment
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I got the tails and licence plate lights wired up and grounded over by the ex-antenna location. I borrowed the perfect amount of brown wire from the stock harness from this thing. There is a ground for all four points separately as it should be, in a common location..
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Alright, I have the third brake light mounted as of last night.
Headlights and blinkers Are wired for, and the horn wiring extended a little since I flipped them to be facing upwards. I still have some ziptie work to do..
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Buttoned up all that wiring then got the tank back in place. Its reaaaalllyy hard to do, the damn thing is like half full of gas :o
hooked up the coolant temp sensor and fuel lines/charcoal canister.
I also gently bent the overflow outlet enough to get the stock hose and a hose clamp on it. Its possible with a fat phillips screwdriver through a deep wall socket that fits right over it.
I also found some burnt fuel line, fortunately I got a bunch left over from what would have gone to the m20 rail. M50 rail is closer to the firewall so I have some good scrap to use...
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Rear subframe is in, and rear brake lines are complete.
Now... Install ds, heat shield and exhaust. Fix two bent wheels. Remove license plate lights from vert, and the bolts to the diff from the halfshafts. Hang driver side door, and figure out how to get my new quarter window in on the ds. The cage is really close to the b pillar and sort of blocks access to those little 8mm nuts.Comment
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The drive shaft is in, finger tight at the trans and diff untill I can steal my ebrake handle and diff output flange bolts from the vert so I can hold it down.Comment
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Missing some parts, most notably my bumper shocks for the plastics, front bumper core and blinkers. I did get my shocks and springs, output shaft bolts, and ebrake handle in. The dash2 was mounted with small hardware. Now to lock down the brakes, tighten the ds, output shafts, and remount the fusebox and ecu.
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Drive line is tightened down, driver side quarter window installed, and I put the fuse box back onto its bracket. I got the ecu mounted up out of the way too, so in order to test the electrical system I still need to at least mount up the driver side door........but I'm having trouble with something loose inside, and I can't see where something is missing.. Probably a nut somewhere...but the handle pulls at a weird angle . Something is loose.Comment
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Quarter window seals and latches are on, so is the trunk seal. I also just got the passenger side seat and belt installed.
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So uh, after a trip to Turlok/Modesto, I now have a full set of plastic bumpers. The rear is missing the ds body clip for the leading edge of the bumper but I am working on getting that piece. That us why the rear bumper is not installed along with my NOS racing dynamics rear apron yet.
But, my car us trying its hardest to pull off an unintentional bmw harlequin theme.
Add euro trim....
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