The Turbo 325ix build!

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  • drutt23
    replied
    This is pretty sick for a quick and simple build man. Props! That turbo sounds pissed!!

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  • IxTech
    replied
    Originally posted by downforce22
    very nice. So is it the stock MAF?
    yes stock maf.

    i think i have my oil crisis under control. i installed a oil pressure gauge today. pics of the install soon. ill be building a custom cluster at the wood shop i work at soon.

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  • downforce22
    replied
    very nice. So is it the stock MAF?

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  • IxTech
    replied
    i was really surprised with the sound myself. for a POS bov im not complaining

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  • Click
    replied
    Turbo sounds so epic

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  • IxTech
    replied
    As Promised

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  • Kershaw
    replied
    looking good

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  • IxTech
    replied
    Update 4/18/11

    So without going into much detail, i pretty much finished it today.
    ill have a short vid up soon. it fired right up and ran pretty damn good with the 30lb injectors. i still have cosmetic stuff like valence and such.

    all was perfect until BOOM: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=205382

    here are some pics as im finishing it up today and over the last few days.

    m3 seats! and keg! woot.










    my boss says: puddy n paint'll make it what it ain't.


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  • IxTech
    replied
    Update 4/14/11

    Hey guys, dont have much to update you all on but basically ive been trying to get my crank bolt off of the motor i have installed so i can finish swapping my intermediate shaft. i have it in 5th gear with the brakes on but since the clutch is brand new i can actually slip it with my breaker bar....yeah flexin. actually bent one of my breaker bars. i figured id get creative and wedge my bar on the frame and turn the motor over with the starter. but the starter is too week. WTF! im going to rent an impacter.

    In even MORE frustrating news: my miller war chip came the other day but absolutely wont work. the installation wizard wont open even though i just downloaded java and have good internet. again, WTF! the usb port recognizes it as a removable storage device but no WIZARD! im going to call Brody today and get some help. im really hoping i dont have to send it back and lose all of this time.

    also, got some non vader e36 M3 seats that are grey. the drivers bolster has a small hole in it but i figured they beat uncomfortable plastic seats for the time being.

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  • kid325e
    replied
    Well done. Good progress.

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  • IxTech
    replied
    Update 4/8/11

    Okay, after i discovered my oil pump error thanks to nando, i took today to swap my intermediate shafts since the ix pump runs in reverse of the rwd pumps.

    it wasnt too difficult after i figured out a way to remove my crank bolt. i was patient and very careful.

    ill give little how to here for others to reference.

    -remove distributor, upper timing belt cover (8mm,10mm,13mm bolts)
    -remove the six bolts that sandwich the vibration damper (13mm)
    -remove the crank bolt (22mm) this easy if you have an impacter, but i dont. i took two fly wheel bolts and wedged a bar of 1"x3/16 steel and braced it with a bolt for mounting the engine to a stand. stood over the engine with a breaker bar and pulled as hard as i possibly could. success.

    -next remove the lower timing belt cover and pop off the vibe damper and anything else(10mm) at this point i loosened my belt and removed it
    -remove the pulley that drives the intermediate shaft. (15mm)
    -in order to remove the shafts retaining plate you have to remove that shroud thing that houses the front main seal. to do that you need a specialty tool to pull the pulley off the crank. yet again, I DO NOT HAVE! so i fab. i took a chunk of the 1"x3/16" bar and drilled holes to fit the ~1.5" extra bolts with the same thread as the six we just removed. i threw a socket in there as a shim and placed the plate i just made over it and threaded my bolts. as you tighten it pulls the gear. it may be required to repeat this process and add more shim height.
    -now undo the 10mm and 13mm bolts that retain the shroud. remove shroud thing
    -you will now see the retaining plate by the intermediate shaft. i used my power drill and CAREFULLY removed the two flat head screws.
    -remove the 13mm bolt that retains the aluminum plug where the old carb'd m20 distributor goes. rotate the shaft and pull to remove the drive gear. then the shaft will slide right out!

    HELL YA im very proud.


    My ix intermediate shaft had a hand engraved "25" on it. any one know whats up with that?


    the mess


    thats all for tonight. tomorrow ill remove the strokers shaft and finish the swap. im also picking up some grey e36 m3 seats tomorrow for $150. non vader :( i may not end up using them and if so ill just flip them.


    Last edited by IxTech; 04-11-2011, 08:55 AM.

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  • kid325e
    replied
    Love this project! Wish I would've known more about using a standard M20 block instead of searching high and low for an iX one. Suscribed!

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  • IxTech
    replied
    hmm alright ill look at that. i read that the sway bar was the fix from these ix guys in colorado, but i could really use camber plates.

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  • cramer
    replied
    Yup, that's the garage (taken about 6-7 years ago, I don't upgate my sig ;))

    It'll definitely be a fast daily! If you go 5 lug, look at the E36 M3 setup for brakes. Seem to be a good value for the cost. The E30 brakes always leave me wanting more...

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  • nando
    replied
    if you want to eliminate understeer, go with stiffer springs and GC's new ix camber plates. a stiffer rear bar is likely to make things worse.

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