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yea i cant remember what the back said so i will be calling first thing in the AM. THANKS AGAIN.
Its funny cause ive heard no one say anything about friction modifier in any of my e30 meets or the bigger car meets. but i know its small details like that which will determine if i can keep the car DD'able. especially when i start making it out to the track for day events. this is 3x now but thank you.lol
btw it took ~ 1.8L to fill the differential with differential fluid
^(for searches)
i threw my bottles out. ill call bavauto and find out. cause i dont need my diff goin bad on me any its MY fault. can u tell if i got the right bottle by the pic!?
I looked at your pic and I cant rember. If you did get the wrong stuff you wont hurt it. Ford dealers sell friction modifier for cheap. It all works the same. but I think you are good the bottles that dont ahve it are marked NS I am pretty sure http://www.redlineoil.com/Products.aspx?pcid=4
"75W90 GEAR OIL - recommended for most street driven and racing differentials. Excellent performance in conventional and limited-slip units. Also for limited-slip manual transaxles which require a 90 WT oil. Contains limited-slip friction modifiers. Please note: Your Vehicle Requires 1.9 Quarts"
thats off the site. the diff fluid for non lsd's is 75W145 or some shit
haha..just sat in my car for about 30min..didnt even start her up...just sat there going over the drift bible techniques..its like juggling between the shifter, ebrake, wheel, and 3 pedals..and the timing of it all ..what a pain in the ass. i cant even complete all the steps when moving so i tried stationary for a while
i found some more pics of updates i completed on the car so I will post em. im trying to keep the updates in order as to when i actually did em but its hard to remember
haha..just sat in my car for about 30min..didnt even start her up...just sat there going over the drift bible techniques..its like juggling between the shifter, ebrake, wheel, and 3 pedals..and the timing of it all ..what a pain in the ass. i cant even complete all the steps when moving so i tried stationary for a while
i found some more pics of updates i completed on the car so I will post em. im trying to keep the updates in order as to when i actually did em but its hard to remember
Honestly, don't get too discouraged. It's all about the seat time that'll get you where you want to be. You can watch all the videos you want but nothing comes close to practice. Practice makes perfect. The videos are just helpful hints.
Coolant fixes continued...kinda(im still backtracking)
Went to the junkYard and found some gold! to me at least..im getting my aux fan working finally. the plan was to fix it so i have A/C but its sept now and im just gonna fix the fan and hold off on a/c till next year
here was part of the problem..i found this after i unwrapped a bunch of electrical tape..thanks po! although i noticed that this was a design flaw by bmw..almost all the jy wires were in the same ripped condition in the EXACT some spot.lol
This one was golden...and had a different, better design. shouldnt tear apart again
and then i was done....
So a few weeks ago I went ahead and ordered a resistor for my aux fan since it wouldnt turn on. I was very lazy and didnt want to take shit apart to reach it but it turns out the tiny little screws were rusted so i didnt have to mess with em. Instead I just cut the wires and relocated the new resistor...about 30min later the fan was working...
old...
and the new one..re located. for now it works. if anyone sees something wrong with the placement say something..if u can even see it. i didnt feel like taking the grill back off.haha
....the thing is tho, now it is ALWAYS working.lol it stays on low if the car is on, just warming up, and when at operating temp. Last thing left on the list to replace would be the temp sensor that plugs into the radiator. So ill be ordering that tonight.
Should i get the e36 one?
keep the m20 a little cooler or should i just order the one for the m20..dont wanna throw anything to funny at it. I remember hearing someone on the fourm say the "early motronic" doesnt like different temperatures but that was in reference to the t-stat i believe.
What do u guys think? i hope to order it tonight btw
Oh yea so when i first got the car I parked it at work which is on a slight hill, and i felt it start to roll and then the parking brake caught. It was pretty weak feeling so i left it in gear also..Since i had never dealt with parking brakes i took it to a shop down the street..asked them to adjust em and if there was a proble what was it?
ebrakes are pretty important for what i want to do with the car. I knew the left ebrake wasnt engaging but i thought the line may have been bad. I told the mechanics & the shop said they adjusted it and said i needed new ebrake shoes! I asked how much installed and they said over $200. i laughed and asked how much for just the part and i believe it came to under $40! (mind you, this is mid june im talking about)
So i buy it..Great..so a week later its cool enough to withstand the heat of the garage and i start installing. They kept telling me i needed a special bmw tool to release the springs but 2 needle noses worked just great!
Right side went on great but when i got to the left i couldnt even get the damn rotor off the hub..telling me 2 things, they sure as hell didnt take it off when they "adjusted" my ebrakes and "saw nothing else wrong" and reaffirming why i dont take my car to other ppl. theyre LAZY
after breaking a hammer i got the rotor off the left side.haha
The brake shoes had definitely seen theyre day. as soon as i pulled em off the brakes were crumbling apart a little...
So like i said, the right side went on fine and i slipped the rotor back on. When i finished the left side the rotor REFUSED to go on. At first I started blaming myself cause ive never done this and I thought i fucked it up...buuuuut after further investigating and understanding how the brakes work i found it. EUREKA!!!
The hinge thingy was seized up with rust sooo bad that the left ebrake was never FULLY disengaged. causing the new ones to be spread out a little 2 much once instaled. heres pics of the piece..sry im typing so much! its the bottom piece.
so after realizing the left side was too tight i then didnt know how the hell to move on to fixing it. so i left the ebrake in the right side for the time being...
It wasnt until I had to replace my RTA that things came together for me. When the bolt snapped in the old one, I had to go to the JY and pick up a new one. I called and they pulled it for me, and i picked it up. I put it in my trunk not even paying attention. When I got home I matched it up to the other one and was super happy..they gave me more than what i needed...they went ahead and left that small hinge piece on the hub...they just cut the ebrake line and left it connected
so when i did that I also had a functional Ebrake FOR FREE things have a funny way of working themselves out sometimes..did a little adjustment of the cables last week. its working great!
oh yea and then i had the rear sway tabs re welded. this time at midas. i wanted a more secure/cleaner weld
here she is at midas
So i was getting a wheel alignment finally at a friends shop and asked him if he could check my check engine light since the bulb was blown. It actually wasnt checked since i owned the car. I got codes:
29- road speed signal
28- oxygen sensor
I dont know what the hell road speed signal means but i replaced the 02 sensor. the report receipt says 7/23
So after trying and trying to take off the 02 sensor I finally got word that i would have to torch the threads/exhaust pipe til red and that would allow the 02 sensor to come out. I tried spraying it with liquid wrench before and after driving..it moved a bit then it got stuck HARD. The torch trick worked so now im happy.
old (left), new (right) and i got the one that plugs in from blunttech. after hearing various opinions i decided i didnt want to chance faulty readings from splicing the wires
that torch was a damn good investment!
But does anyone know what "road-speed signal" refers to?
Its funny, the short shift kit was the first thing i ordered when I got the car in april. Ive always wanted to install one in my own car since its what you use the most. And i HHHAAAAATTTEEE how long the stock throw it..im tall so my seat is back a bit. (zero room for anyone to sit behind me) And because of my long legs it made throwing into 5th difficult sometimes. Id have to lean forward so finally i moved my seat up.
Until last night...I finally installed that bitch
At first i tried it by myself and the bitch clip wouldnt come off..that was the story for the next 2 attempts with 2 different ppl. Yesterday I finally figured it out buut stil had soo many problems. Everyone kept telling me to wait until i did my clutch and dropped the tranny, but i dont listen. I also dont need a clutch. I plan on clutch kicking this one to its grave..and as i upgrade power ill upgrade the clutch & flywheel.
Well making a long story short i ended up with extra parts. I have a shield around my flex guibo that made things very difficult...anyone know a way around this thing?
since that was in the way i couldnt change the piece held in by a pin..this guy
The other extra piece is the rubber bushing where the bitch clip is..that medal rod seen here (below) has a bushing in it but the one sent to me is an OVAL shape..a 12ton press my neighbor had wouldnt get it to go in. there must be another special tool that compresses this bitch while pushing it in...idk
oval bushing
BUT i am extremely happy with my new reduced throw. soo much better...and not notchy like some ssk's. i actually didnt like the uuc when i felt it at a car meet
oh im selling these headers..they were never installed
$150
and these tinted tails. i got pulled over for em. in MD your not supposed to have tinted tails. at 4pm theyre a problem i guess. stupid.
$100..there are previous pics of em installed. i loved em. i just dont need extra fed attention
Good progress for not being mechanically inclined until gettin the beamer man!! Welcome to the E30 obsession!!
thanks burh..i just checked out your build..i wanna learn how to do all that myself someday. it saves soo much money and u know some guy isnt cutting corners.
i will be getting more serious with the engine bay and preparing the motor for turbo this winter!
So theres 3 bolts facing me and 3 nuts facing me.
the bolts attach the guibo to the driveshaft..then once the guibo and shaft are bolted together...they slide into the shield & bolt to the tranny by the nuts facing me. thats correct right??
from my research and a very timely thread under the driveline section of the forum ive figured it out. I think
also got this pic form the thread..
While trying to install the SSK i thought I could pop out the driveshaft to install a bushing..I started loosening THE BOLTS (above pic) but as soon as I broke em all free realized there was a nut behind the shield between the tranny. I couldnt get to those so i drove the car.
Now a bolt is missing. :crazy:
Im guessing if i torque wrench the nuts i can pull the driveshaft out. Is it that simple?
If so how do I hold the bolts behind it from rotating and putting myself in the same predicament??
Any help is GREATLY appreciate! thanks
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