The 1986 325iX -3.0L Stroker - Now up and Running!

[CorvallisBMW]

Wow, sounds like it could have been a lot worse. i'm glad you were able to get it put back together! Good luck on getting her all tuned in.

[nando]

try a 1k resistor to pin 17 of the C101, to ground.

[ForcedFirebird]

Hey Pete, yeah the bolt worked its way loose and caused the belt to strip and jump some teeth. About to put the head back on maybe this week/weekend. I need to trouble shoot why the ABS light comes on for the brakes. I think it has bad ABS sensors. Also need to find out why the heater fan is not working at all. I checked the resistor, it looks good, and the fuses should be right. Other than that just buttoning up loose ends.

Also, what does this plug go to? This picture taken from strictlyeta says it powers the obc. How do I hook it up to the motronic 1.0 car harness? I already tapped two wires, one for the tach and one for the econometer (still not working)

http://www.strictlyeta.net/technical/328i_6.html

I have already done this: http://www.strictlyeta.net/technical/328i_8.html

You can leave those unplugged for an early model. I have done several m1.3 swaps and never plugged those in.

try a 1k resistor to pin 17 of the C101, to ground.

What does this do? I had a mystery ABS light on in the 86 when everything checked out.

[nando]

it only applies to the ix, other E30s don't have a C101 pin 17

[downforce22]

I was reading pin 20 goes to the ABS on the ix? Would my late model wiring harness be different than the early model one it came with stock that I replaced?

What would the resistor accomplish, nando?

[Pabst-90IX]

Congrats awesome build man! i am starting to piece together a similar build for my ix. Where in the denver area did you get your crank seal made? im looking for a good machine shop to help where needed. Also didnt see what rods you ended up using?
Thanks and best of luck with the motronic 1.3 switch im trying to decide what direction to take in regards to engine management myself

[downforce22]

Thanks! I looked at a shop and planned on using the hub adapter but they wanted to charge $200+ to machine it down because it is a hardened steel. I knew for that kind of money I might as well buy the one from the stroker kits from metric mechanic (theirs was like $225). I ended up searching around and pming a few people and found one from a forums member for something like $50. It was worth it as it fit well and I sealed it in place for the oil seal.

The rods were with the pistons that the previous owner had bought. Besides being 135mm, forged, and the H-beam I have no clue where they came from. They could be the eagle rods, or ross, or something else but the rods and pistons are MUCH lighter than the stock rods/pistons.

As for management I like the motronic 1.3 as it is easy to use and diagnose. I think a few bulbs are burnt out so the stomp test hasn't worked. It has been plug and play and the sensors are now on the front of the engine rather than the bellhousing. I like the idea of the miller WAR chip/maf but am worried about its turbo capabilities. I have heard mixed reviews and with a turbo the maf really should be pull through which involves figuring out how to relocate it. It would be nicer if I could datalog with it but that is a different story. I have thought about megasquirt but there have been some horror stories, I don't have a laptop to tune it, and I don't like the idea of chopping up my harness so the PNP unit sounds nice for the price.

It would be neat to see what you have planned and what your power goals are since you are local.

[nando]

I was reading pin 20 goes to the ABS on the ix? Would my late model wiring harness be different than the early model one it came with stock that I replaced?

What would the resistor accomplish, nando?

it's pin 17. pin 20 is usually not used but on late cars it's 12v.

it makes your ABS work. :p

[SkiFree]

Updates? Hope all is moving along.

Side note, what size and condition were the euro pistons?

[downforce22]

Updates? Hope all is moving along.

Side note, what size and condition were the euro pistons?

Unfortunately, no. After I rebuilt the head (decked 0.005 in, new seals, valves lapped and cleaned) and installed it, it is still blowing some smoke out the back, oil it seems. At this point I am frustrated and worried that the damage is somewhere in the bottom end. It could be the intake and vent tube I suppose. I need to do a compression test to see the true issues, but I am currently working in Denver temporarily and the car is in Colorado Springs.

The euro pistons are regular m20b25 size, 84mm bore, 135mm rods, the only difference is that they have a 10 mm longer skirt and the compression height is different resulting in a 9.7:1 CR. Mine are not perfect but should be plenty usable. I had them up for sale but am actually contemplating keeping them in case I ever needed to rebuild a 325e and could make a potent stroker setup. Compression should be right around 10.4 but the skirts may need some trimming.

[King Mufasa]

Unfortunately, no. After I rebuilt the head (decked 0.005 in, new seals, valves lapped and cleaned) and installed it, it is still blowing some smoke out the back, oil it seems. At this point I am frustrated and worried that the damage is somewhere in the bottom end. It could be the intake and vent tube I suppose. I need to do a compression test to see the true issues, but I am currently working in Denver temporarily and the car is in Colorado Springs.

The euro pistons are regular m20b25 size, 84mm bore, 135mm rods, the only difference is that they have a 10 mm longer skirt and the compression height is different resulting in a 9.7:1 CR. Mine are not perfect but should be plenty usable. I had them up for sale but am actually contemplating keeping them in case I ever needed to rebuild a 325e and could make a potent stroker setup. Compression should be right around 10.4 but the skirts may need some trimming.

Did you forget to break the rebuilt motor in first? Happened to me with my build on my high compresion m52

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tBD-rFP7q9c

[downforce22]

I was on hiatus from the car working in denver and the car was in colorado springs. I finally got a job back in town and finally got around to doing a compression test.

The numbers

175
170
170
165
175
180

That shows they are all pretty much within spec. Could I have a vacuum leak somewhere sucking up oil into the combustion chamber?

[ForcedFirebird]

You need a leak down test. Poor ring seating, bad valve guides/seals, scored cylinder walls all can show good on a compression test.

[whodwho]

Individually yes any of those can be a good number, but together no, 165-180 is way too much difference to make for a healthy motor.

Not to say that is your oil burning problem but it is a problem, did you have the throttle open and crank it the same number of revs?

"still blowing some smoke out the back, oil it seems"

black, white-quick to dissipate, or blueish and lingering?

on accel or decel?

[ForcedFirebird]

on accel or decel?

This is actually very important for diag.