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Kamotors E30-Turbo to ITB M20

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    Originally posted by ForcedFirebird View Post
    Correct. The m20 and m42 etc also use the same as m50nv and tu, just with the mounting tab clocked to a different location.

    Kam, it's hard to say with the plastic sensors, since some of the aftermarket ones are all plastic, the OEM ones have metal mounting tabs and a metal sleeve on the end of them.

    Best way is to test resistance. You should see 580-ish ohms across two of the pins to the sensor. The m30 and m20 use the same ECU with a different chip in them, the crank sensors will also hold the same values.

    Are you using the sensor that was in your m20, or did that go with your old motor?

    Finally I am fairly certain the hall sensor would not even function at all without the 5v reference.
    Its the cps that came with the m30. I still have my m20 cps somewhere. Wouldn't the car run bad if its a cps issue?


    7speedshop.com

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      Not always. I have had them run good, then act like a rev limiter, run good with a random miss/backfire, or not run at all with bad/failing CPS's.

      The ohm test will tell you what's up. As you are checking the resistance, wiggle the wire near the sensor, sometimes they become partially detached inside the sensor.
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        so kind of annoyed with this new setup.

        Problem#1-my driveshaft was making a scraping noise, jacked it up and checked and it doesnt hit anything but the guibo makes squeaking noises as it rotates. noise later went away after driving somehow.

        Problem#2- expansion tank started overflowing although tuner studio confirmed I was only at 200degrees. I believe this was because it was possibly overfilled.

        Problem #3- HEAT, things are getting Incredibly hot under the hood.
        if i ever get stuck in stop and go traffic it takes miles on the freeway to cool it back down. I have the hood tilted to help vent but its not making it any better, once its heat soaked there is no way to cool it off other than lots of freeway.

        I cant touch anything under the hood after a drive, My air filter gets scalding hot, IATs are 100+ after its been heat soaked from just normal driving. I used to be able to touch my intake mani. on the M20 and it was nice and cool now on the M30 its insanely hot.

        Radiator its self seems to actually get to the point where its too hot to cool even at freeway speeds.

        Something else I noticed, If I drive it around and boost a bit, coolant temp actually goes down at the same time methanol is injected.


        for around an hour of driving my coolant stays pretty steady at 180f which is perfect, and then if I ever get stuck in traffic and it gets to 200+ and it takes forever to cool off even on the freeway.


        7speedshop.com

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          Need more fan


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            There are two things from what I see in the pics.

            1. Wrap your DP and wastegate pipe, will make a huge difference.

            2. Your IAT's are high because of your intercooling piping setup. With the intake piping routed over the engine it's absorbing all of the radiating heat coming off the radiator and engine.

            I would reconsider flipping the TB to the other side.
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              functional hood vents?
              Simon
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                Do you have the stock thermostat?
                That runs too hot for a turbo car.

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                  Should just remove the hood. :D

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                    Originally posted by Good & Tight View Post
                    There are two things from what I see in the pics.



                    1. Wrap your DP and wastegate pipe, will make a huge difference.



                    2. Your IAT's are high because of your intercooling piping setup. With the intake piping routed over the engine it's absorbing all of the radiating heat coming off the radiator and engine.



                    I would reconsider flipping the TB to the other side.

                    This also flipping the TB will eliminate a lot of piping making It run cooler. It's gonna be kind of expensive but we'll worth it. Probably what I'll end up doing. Unless a alpina manifold magically falls in my lap.


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                    1989 325is l 1984 euro 320i l 1970 2002 Racecar
                    1991 318i 4dr slick top


                    Euro spec 320i/Alpina B6 3.5 project(the never ending saga)
                    Vintage race car revival (2002 content)
                    Mtech 2 turbo restoration
                    Brilliantrot slick top "build"

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                      are you running water or coolant?

                      I still think there's a bleed issue here.
                      cars beep boop

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                        From what I've seen he raised the hood a little so air is able to go in and vent out of the back of the hood
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                          Originally posted by LowR3V'in View Post
                          Do you have the stock thermostat?
                          That runs too hot for a turbo car.
                          71c thermostat

                          Originally posted by kronus View Post
                          are you running water or coolant?

                          I still think there's a bleed issue here.
                          Running water, water wetter, and 20% antifreeze.

                          no air bubbles, and it can run cool for around an hour it just eventually reaches a point where the entire engine bay is heatsoaked and only the freeway can get it back down.


                          7speedshop.com

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                            Looks great man.

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                              looks great,
                              cutting, all the grill vents open may help get a little more airflow to the radiator.

                              you can also buy this for 5 bucks at home depot,
                              1 kit is enough to do an e30 radiator.
                              the idea is to help seal all the airflow from escaping around the radiator.
                              and seal it to the core support.
                              every little bit helps.


                              the gap I'm referring too

                              apply product, its adhesive backed on one side

                              you can also do the top between the radiator bracket


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