Kamotors E30-Turbo to ITB M20

[kamotors]

Video w/ the new setup.

[kamotors]

OK finally got it tuned on alpha n to the point where I can drive it anywhere, at any temp, and as hard as I want. never excessively cranks and idles rock solid. Runs clean, easy to daily in stop and go and lots of fun in the twisties. However I hate the downrev with the kooks race muffler it sounds like ultra beehive diarrhea rasp between 5k to 3k on the decel.


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[Coyote_ar]

current look is spot on, allthough i liked the clear spoiler.

[Javier h]

I like the contrast better

Have you ever considered painting your flares?

[kamotors]

Getting close, discovered my injector dead time changed during my switch to alpha n. So retune in the morning to see if it'll be more forgiving to sudden throttle increase like it was in speed density.



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[kamotors]

Have you ever considered painting your flares?

Ya they were red but I decided I liked the contrast/rugged look more

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[Reichart12]

Very impressive work getting the tuning done like that. Once I get my e30 back together I would like to go back through my tune and do it up better than before.

[2mAn]

Have you ever considered painting your flares?

[kamotors]

Street tuning, lots of datalogs, use same stretch of road for pulls, get to see how car reacts to different situations, how the car acts heat soaked, how it acts at high elevation, daily driver mannerisms etc. I enjoy tuning this way. My elevations
varys from around 4500ft to 8k. I live at around 5300ft. Auto x at 4500ft and my canyon runs can go up to 8000ft elevation. Setting up barometric correction and getting it spot on requires going to the different elevations and doing pulls. Even before my last actual dyno run I did 3 to 4 street tunes to make sure it was close to spot on.

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[Coyote_ar]

you are still doing all this tunning with a butt dyno?

[kamotors]

OK so with the help of whodwho got the car pretty close to dialed in.

Current issues are that it goes a bit lean when coming off a stop(easy fix)
and that if I go WOT under 4krpm from cruising it will go too rich. I've been adjusting the map and TPS AE graph and its helping but the problem is still there.
the car is completely driveable and I trust it to go any where it just has those 2 issues stopping me from being able to auto-x it right now.

[kamotors]

ok so up and driving around on alpha N now. Sadly wasnt able to get too much driving in and I essentially started from scratch (to the point where it could hardly get out of the driveway). So most of this table is just numbers acting as place holders while I get datalogs and drive around. I'd say I've only reached maybe 25% of the map so far.

excited to see how it transforms as I datalog and "fill in the blanks". ran pretty rich at WOT and throttle response is quite a bit worse now for small inputs but itll get dialed in as I drive.
alphan by kamotors@y, on Flickr

[kamotors]

That is why SD really doesn't do well on ITB's (at least without a hybrid MAF setup). There are just too many pulses and sine waves for it to be stable. now if you were to put a MAF in front of the plenum, it would react much better. I never believed it until I stuck a vacuum gauge on a single ITB cylinder, behind the throttle plate and watched the vacuum bounce between ~2" and 11".

What is your KPA at idle? I can't see it being much below 75 at all, unless in deceleration. With SD and ITB, you probably don't even need <50kpa on your maps (well maybe start them at 0 then 50 for the first two values). All those blocks between 0kpa and 75kpa are useless. You have a lot of resolution wasted on 25-75kpa, and why your map looks like a cliff at 80kpa. Really VE, fuel, or spark shouldn't have abrupt changes like your post above.

It idles at 50-55kpa actually. Has a very nice stable idle. But yeah everything below that is a huge waste. I'm probably just going to bite the bullet and do alpha n tonight. I have to start from scratch because I lost all my old tunes with my Last laptop.

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[digger]

full TPS mode works really good when you have a good consistent TPS and the right load steps e.g. 0,1,3,7,14, or something along those lines then start into bigger steps etc

You might be able to get a good MAP tune if you rescale the voltages to use more of the load increments and add a restrictor into the signal tube to dampen the pulses, when i had MAP on mine for a short period it was the light loads that were erratic not the WOT. i never added a damper but i've seen the restrictors do a really good job of averaging the vacuum signal for doing carb sync with the dial gauges

[ForcedFirebird]

That is why SD really doesn't do well on ITB's (at least without a hybrid MAF setup). There are just too many pulses and sine waves for it to be stable. now if you were to put a MAF in front of the plenum, it would react much better. I never believed it until I stuck a vacuum gauge on a single ITB cylinder, behind the throttle plate and watched the vacuum bounce between ~2" and 11".

What is your KPA at idle? I can't see it being much below 75 at all, unless in deceleration. With SD and ITB, you probably don't even need <50kpa on your maps (well maybe start them at 0 then 50 for the first two values). All those blocks between 0kpa and 75kpa are useless. You have a lot of resolution wasted on 25-75kpa, and why your map looks like a cliff at 80kpa. Really VE, fuel, or spark shouldn't have abrupt changes like your post above.