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    #91


    I guess these are for adjusting the "throttle by pass" flow?




    This weighs a ton :O


    Interesting stuff must be done to fit eveything together..


    Then I bought an E39 530i fuel filter (with a 3,5 bar regulator) so I can make "returnless" fuel line. OK, the picture is what it is, but fuel lines should go something like this:
    Last edited by petrolhead; 03-12-2014, 12:56 PM.

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      #92
      No progress here, boss! I've been repairing a friend's 316i so we'd have something to drive to the E30-meet @ Muurame, Finland . And I've been welding a 1967 Monaco :O

      Pics of the 316i reviving if anyone's interested.. http://petrolhead.kuvat.fi/kuvat/BMW+316i+4d/

      Well I did touch my own project a bit.. I checked to see if the throttles collide with something when head is mounted to block.

      Alternator must be turned all the way down so it doesn't touch the TPS. I'll get a shorter V-belt and save weight .
      I bought S14 fuel rail and injectors. I tested a 318i (M10) old 'n used stock fuel pump. It produces ~160 litres per hour against 3,7 bar pressure.. which is way more than my power target's max fuel consumption. So no point in buying a more powerful pump.

      ..Aand I bought supplies for an adapter. Namely some aluminium plate & fancy screws.

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        #93
        Bought an air filter box, from an E36 325i.


        DIY thin wall 80mm pipe to replace air mass meter.


        S14 injectors and fuel rail arrived. I'll have to figure out a way to plug up the pressure regulator's hole. I'd rather not weld it shut, so I can go back to a normal fuel system if a "returnless" line doesn't work.


        I bought a Bosch 0280122001 potentiometer type TPS to replace the original which only has idle/WOT switches. Need to make an adapter for it also.

        Higher pressure cap for expansion tank. Nuts for 51mm front struts.


        I did this just to see if I can. Oxy-acetylene, anvil and a hammer :). Anyway, 14,5mm rear stabilizer modified so that I can use ball joint-type droplinks.


        One mounting hole cut off of the TB flange, water outlet shortened so it won't collide with TPS. The F-shaped water outlet will be welded on to the adapter.


        Coolant outlet has a mismatch at the same spot where it makes a sharp 90 degree turn.. Did some grinding to it. Can't hurt coolant flow can it? :)
        Last edited by petrolhead; 06-14-2014, 02:16 PM.

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          #94
          Beautiful. Want ITBs too... I have ones from wrecked Hayabusa, hope I will have money for install them on my M10. :)

          318i M10 '87

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            #95
            Old reinforcement welds that I'd forgotten to paint. Now rusty as hell. Nice job scrubbing them. Now painted :)


            Attempted body repairs under attempted paint job..




            Originally posted by Mirek E. View Post
            Beautiful. Want ITBs too... I have ones from wrecked Hayabusa, hope I will have money for install them on my M10.
            Yep, having a set of ITBs isn't the end of spending money on them. With S14 items a fuel rail, throttle linkage, adjustment instructions, repair instructions, spare parts etc. already exist. That's my reason for using them. Plus the plenum and snorkels are proper items if you ask me. Volume of the plenum and it's inlet hole (100mm) are so big that air velocity will be lowish. I believe it'll help even distribution of air between cylinders. When you only have four cylinders it's important to make them all work for a living and have even filling/mixture.

            I happened to find complete repair&adjustment instructions for S14/S38 TB's :)
            Last edited by petrolhead; 06-23-2014, 07:33 AM.

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              #96
              I absolutely love this thread! Great work!
              Originally posted by LJ851
              kingston is the play by play announcer for this thread.
              ‘Tis by the grace of God that my cars run!

              Originally posted by unloadedak
              #teamross
              Siobhan's Build Thread - UPDATED!

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                #97
                Originally posted by kingston View Post
                I absolutely love this thread! Great work!
                Thanks. Kind words always bring motivation.
                This took me a whole weekend. Scraping rust, grinding down old welds, cutting bits, sanding.. Then a coat of primer. Not 100% happy with end result but I can live with it.







                Last edited by petrolhead; 06-23-2014, 12:47 AM.

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                  #98
                  The amount of rust repairs in here is staggering...bravo, sir bravo.
                  ~ Puch Cafe. ~ Do business? feedback ~ Check out my leather company ~

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                  Current cars:
                  ~ '87 325 M30B35 swap
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                    #99

                    Replacing this in itself would be a quick job. However, every point where it's welded on, is RUSTED. f**k.


                    ...Fast forward to many hours of work later: Checking with fenders If everything is about where they should..




                    Then put it on with panel adhesive and a few welds.

                    Took apart the diff. Clutch plates, dog plates, etc all surfaces seemed to be in order:





                    Thinking of ditching this shim and getting a third friction plate-dog plate pair to replace it:
                    Last edited by petrolhead; 06-29-2014, 01:20 PM.

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                      More attempted repairs, under attempted paint work CLICK !

                      I got some oil paint (4,99€ :) ) to see if it can be used to check tooth contact pattern:

                      ^Here tested on a junk 168 diff.

                      Hopefully this collection of shims is enough to find right tension for side bearings:

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                        I'll be watching to see what ideas I can steal from you. My car is probably around 1100kg, but I have an aluminum M52 with S52 cams so I make a good amount of power to support the extra weight I have over you. My car started life as a M10 318
                        Simon
                        Current Cars:
                        -1966 Lotus Elan
                        -1986 German Car
                        -2006 Volkswagen Jetta TDI

                        Make R3V Great Again -2020

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                          Originally posted by 2mAn View Post
                          I'll be watching to see what ideas I can steal from you. My car is probably around 1100kg, but I have an aluminum M52 with S52 cams so I make a good amount of power to support the extra weight I have over you. My car started life as a M10 318
                          Well, a 316 shell weighs the same as a 325iX, so end weight depends only of what you put in the car.

                          Weight and weight distribution are major considerations in this car. Hence, no 6 cylinders or turbos. Less weight means I can achieve the same grip with narrowed tyres/wheels -which in turn save weight :D. Light front end with sensible width rubber means I can put in a fairly quick unassisted steering without it being too heavy. Only way for really good steering feel I think.


                          Grinding/cutting the last aluminium nut off of the struts..




                          Not the next thing on my "to do list", but.. I felt like doing this :):




                          Sill reinforcement. All fit under floor lining and cabrio sill covering:






                          Last edited by petrolhead; 09-13-2014, 02:33 AM.

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                            Bump. Someone sell me the swivel joints that go between steering axle and rack. Must be from a power assisted rack.

                            -Jarno

                            EDIT: Finally managed to find one and fit everything together.
                            Last edited by petrolhead; 09-06-2014, 11:06 PM.

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                              Slow progress..
                              Bought a transmisssion support for the box, M3 item. Sport Getrag has it's mounting points differently than regular boxes.. I'll have to fabricate bushes also. Stock M3 parts are too soft. Aftermarket items don't look convincing.


                              Mounting points for steering support done. That bar is from an E30 touring.


                              Test fitting dashboard to se that it fits with the support:


                              Sill/floor/ reinforcement done and lining fitted (well, needs small adjustments..)


                              -Sorry for the crappy cell phone pictures.
                              Last edited by petrolhead; 09-14-2014, 08:56 AM.

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                                Just read the whole thread. Great work!

                                I wish I had the metal/fab skills you do!

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