14 years - 1991 325ix, Stroker/5-Speed (N52 swap?)

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  • stonea
    replied
    Originally posted by nando
    yeah I think the hubs stick out an extra 1/2" on the ix. so you would need a 12mm spacer in the rear to equalize that out.
    Ironically I have all of the measurements for the RWD hub and rotor written down for comparison somewhere, I just never thought about actually using it.

    Originally posted by Bimmer_man
    I want more power out of my ix but I really don't want to go turbo. Really never liked the turbo thing on my cars. Just a personal preference. So that leaves one hell of an m20 build or swap.

    I'm leaning more to a swap cause it's more power, fuel economy, no timing belt worry, and not a whole lot of extra weight.
    As someone who has looked into this swap quiet a bit I would suggest stroking. I looked into the M54, S54, Euro S50, S52, S38, M30 and in the end I'm probably going to stick with the M20, why? Mostly costs and time. Personally I've put a lot of money into the M20 set up in the past year (new sensors, new AC compressor, Alternator, PS pump, half shafts) but on top of that the money it would take to swap it didn't make sense to me. I could finish up my exterior and interior and more projects for what I was budgeting for the swap (and you always go over budget on these projects). If I get a decent job and 10-20 years down the line my stroker still isn't enough power then I'll revisit the situation. But if you're still serious read the 24v swap knowledge thread back to front several times. I think I've read it close to 15 times by now. Its definitely not for the faint of heart or budget friendly. Even when its all said and done the only person we know of that has successfully done the swap not using the frakenpan is Nisse.

    As for your reasons for swapping it; you'll never make the money back off of fuel economy from the amount its going to cost to do this swap. I get 21 mpg in my ix and I get 26 mpg in my M54 Z3. I've never understood the timing belt thing. After you do it twice it doesn't take long to do it. Also every 100,000 miles you have to change the water pump anyways so you'll be inconvenienced for an afternoon every 50,000 miles. Also the M20 is the lightest 6 cylinder engine you can get except for the M54 or N52. Even then I've heard the M54's weight savings isn't crazy over the M20. Everyone is so quick to swap the engine to make power, but you can get a decent amount of fun and power out of these old M20's.

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  • Northern
    replied
    Originally posted by nando
    Yes it will.

    I have an custom ix getrag with a 24v bellhousing, but the only difference is the extra 10 degrees of rotation to the passenger side. if you don't have an ix, then use the 6 speed that comes with the engine.
    You've probably already covered this, but how are you going to account for the 10 degree offset with the 24v bellhousing vs the non offset ix pan/diff/driveshaft?

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  • Bimmer_man
    replied
    My car is an ix. Dose the 10 degrees matter that much? If so it's something for me to look into. I'm just curious on the whole set up. I'm going to sound a bit like a dick but in going to watch how you're set up pans out and see about maybe doing something myself.

    I want more power out of my ix but I really don't want to go turbo. Really never liked the turbo thing on my cars. Just a personal preference. So that leaves one hell of an m20 build or swap.

    I'm leaning more to a swap cause it's more power, fuel economy, no timing belt worry, and not a whole lot of extra weight.

    BTW what car did your n52 come from? I noticed that some cars for more powerful versions of the same engine even though it has the same engine code.

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  • nando
    replied
    yeah I think the hubs stick out an extra 1/2" on the ix. so you would need a 12mm spacer in the rear to equalize that out.

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  • stonea
    replied
    I've spent nights thinking about it and never thought about using the RWD hub .___. That simplifies it a lot. Thanks for the insight!

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  • nando
    replied
    why are the rears impossible?

    the only real difference is the hubs. it would be easy enough to use a RWD hub and BBK in the rear. The main reason there's a difference at all is because the hub sticks out a bit more, all you really need is a spacer to fix that.

    but, I'm not really thinking much about that at the moment. the reality is, the car is going to weigh slightly less than it does now. The brakes I have are more than adequate - as long as I don't have to switch to a manual setup or a tiny little booster. :p

    the biggest benefit IMO to a BBK is cheaper consumables and less weight. The car can't stop any faster than the tires can grip.

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  • stonea
    replied
    You mentioned a bbk down the line, any ideas on that? I looked into it and the fronts are obviously easy, but there rears are impossible. The only thing I could think of is a 2 piece rotor.

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  • nando
    replied
    Yes it will.

    I have an custom ix getrag with a 24v bellhousing, but the only difference is the extra 10 degrees of rotation to the passenger side. if you don't have an ix, then use the 6 speed that comes with the engine.
    Last edited by nando; 02-13-2016, 08:19 AM.

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  • Bimmer_man
    replied
    I'm not sure if this has been brought up but, I'm curious will the n52 engine mate to the e30 getrag? I'm guessing no but had to ask .

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  • nando
    replied
    I can probably borrow one for some stuff. The main thing i want to weld is the engine mount brackets to the frame rails.

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  • Kershaw
    replied
    Time to buy one. Basically mandatory for your level of modding. Nice progress.

    A welder will be the second purchase if my garage ever gets started. A lift the first, lol.

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  • nando
    replied
    yeah, the alignment is looking pretty good.. I didn't have it sitting in the right place last night (it was late, I moved it before taking the picture by accident). But the two holes around the passenger side shaft line up pretty much perfectly:





    Picture makes it seem more out of alignment than reality. I measured 10" from the center of the shaft to the mating face of the block on the stock ix pan. On the N52 pan with the two bolts holding it down (I only had to ream them out a little to fit the larger aluminum bolts), I'm measuring 10 1/2". I'm pretty sure I can deal with 1/2" just by positioning the engine back a little bit. Actually I think this will help me because it looked really tight between the front of the engine and the radiator.

    I'm thinking the AWD N52 oil pan isn't that great of a place to start. The RWD pan looks a lot simpler, less cutting is required. When I pull it I will know for sure - here's the AWD pan for reference:



    BTW, the old iron blocks are so ridiculously heavy in comparison to the new aluminum/magnesium designs. The S52 block has to be around 90lbs - I should weigh it on the bathroom scale. Pretty sure the N52 block is around 50lbs. The M20 isn't much lighter than the S52 either..



    The angle isn't quite right of course (what is it, 20 degrees vs 30 degrees?) but I have a plan for that. I have to mock it up with the diff/trans/transfercase anyway. I'll have to see if I can make some sort of jig like nomansland92 did - naturally, I don't own a welder..

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  • nando
    replied
    I lent out my spare ix oil pan to nomansland92 - he's basically doing the opposite thing as me. In return I got the cut out portion of his ix pan. It's actually really helpful - I realized that 2 of the holes on the passenger side actually line up with the holes in the block, and it's almost in the perfect spot! So it's totally doable.



    At some point I'll start cutting into a pan. I've got an AWD N52 pan, and a RWD pan. Not sure what will be easier to start from at this point, but at least I have a pretty good feel for where to line this sucker up.

    actually the only thing I'm missing to make a complete mock up is a front diff. I know somebody said they had a broken one I could borrow but I can't remember who that was..

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  • nando
    replied
    I borrowed a stand from my stepdad - eventually, I'll need a hoist though. Trying to avoid having one take up space in my garage until I need it though lol.

    experimented a bit with cam timing. I should be able to retard the intake cam 10 degrees - that would give 60-130 degrees of intake cam adjustment (S54 is 70-130 degrees in comparison). That should allow the extension of the power band a bit higher up, even with the stock cam.

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  • wazzu70
    replied
    Too bad I dont check the forums much anymore. I have a cherry picker and an engine stand I would have lent to you. Let me know if you need to borrow the engine hoist at some point.

    Love the N52 route you are taking!

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