Originally posted by phreshkid
View Post
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
the Aluminum Monster. a 318 with a special 24v
Collapse
X
-
OK, heres a bunch of pics of what I'm dealing with and what I got done today. Its a former rollcage made by Autopower. Oceanside Motorsports chopped it out and CMG sat on it for a little while. I picked it up from him last week.
SO, heres what I got. A complete roll bar with some chopped ends on it. The plan is to totally remove the chopped ends and have the roll bar welded in. Later the plan would be to add back the front half to make it a full cage, but while its still technically a street car, the car will get just the roll bar.
rollbar01 by 2mAn
rollbar02 by 2mAn
rollbar03 by 2mAn
rollbar04 by 2mAn
And here we go!... Started with the cutoff wheel to get it as close to the original hoop.
rollbar05 by 2mAn
rollbar06 by 2mAn
and heres the scrap pieces that were cut off
rollbar09 by 2mAn
and now its time to grind it all off and make it as smooth as possible with the grinder. I can make it smoother and, as you can see, the whole thing will get a fresh coat of white paint once its all prepped and ready.
rollbar07 by 2mAn
rollbar08 by 2mAn
rollbar10 by 2mAn
rollbar12 by 2mAn
Overall Im pretty happy with how things came out. None of the welds that are important were touched and the scrap is all gone.
Round 2 is going to be getting the bases ready for welding, and I plan on building plinth boxes and finally finding someone to weld it in. I can weld but I also want to make sure it gets welded in properly
Edit: tomorrow I will be installing the Motorsport Hardware studs. Another update coming soonSimon
Current Cars:
-1999 996.1 911 4/98 3.8L 6-Speed, 21st Century Beetle
Make R3V Great Again -2020
Comment
-
Originally posted by IronJoe View PostLooks good Simon!
So today was a quick one, but I managed to pull the old spark plugs out to see exactly what Im dealing with and what they look like. I planned on checking the gap, but as you'll see that wasnt possible. I will be replacing these very soon. I also tightened down the valvecover bolts as they were fairly loose on several of them. Hopefully this will kill the burnt oil smell from the gasket leaking on the exhaust manifolds. Anyways, heres the spark plugs
They were torqued down SUPER hard...
old_spark_plugs1 by 2mAn
ughh... platinum +4... really???
old_spark_plugs2 by 2mAn
Couldnt get a good picture with the part # on it, but they are NGK BKR6EQUP
old_spark_plugs3 by 2mAn
So here we are, Motorsport Hardware 78mm studs, said to used for anything up to 20mm spacers. I have 15mm on the back and 10mm in the front, or was it 20 in the back and 15 in the front?.. haha I dont remember now! Regardless, here we are
wheel_studs_ready by 2mAn
Very easy to install, here we are all done and ready to put the wheel back on
wheel_studs_installed by 2mAn
And here it is all done. Easy and totally worth it
wheels_studs_done1 by 2mAnSimon
Current Cars:
-1999 996.1 911 4/98 3.8L 6-Speed, 21st Century Beetle
Make R3V Great Again -2020
Comment
-
Studs are probably one of my favorite easy E30 mods.
I was really happy with the BKR6E coppers I had. Not a fan of any of the long life sparkplug crap. I'm going to give the one-step-colder version of those a shot with the turbo.Originally posted by priapismMy girl don't know shit, but she bakes a mean cupcake.Originally posted by shamesonUsually it's best not to know how much money you have into your e30
Comment
-
Originally posted by Northern View PostStuds are probably one of my favorite easy E30 mods.
I was really happy with the BKR6E coppers I had. Not a fan of any of the long life sparkplug crap. I'm going to give the one-step-colder version of those a shot with the turbo.Simon
Current Cars:
-1999 996.1 911 4/98 3.8L 6-Speed, 21st Century Beetle
Make R3V Great Again -2020
Comment
-
Originally posted by 2mAn View PostOK, heres a bunch of pics of what I'm dealing with and what I got done today. Its a former rollcage made by Autopower. Oceanside Motorsports chopped it out and CMG sat on it for a little while. I picked it up from him last week.
SO, heres what I got. A complete roll bar with some chopped ends on it. The plan is to totally remove the chopped ends and have the roll bar welded in. Later the plan would be to add back the front half to make it a full cage, but while its still technically a street car, the car will get just the roll bar.
And here we go!... Started with the cutoff wheel to get it as close to the original hoop.
and heres the scrap pieces that were cut off
and now its time to grind it all off and make it as smooth as possible with the grinder. I can make it smoother and, as you can see, the whole thing will get a fresh coat of white paint once its all prepped and ready.
Overall Im pretty happy with how things came out. None of the welds that are important were touched and the scrap is all gone.
Round 2 is going to be getting the bases ready for welding, and I plan on building plinth boxes and finally finding someone to weld it in. I can weld but I also want to make sure it gets welded in properly
Edit: tomorrow I will be installing the Motorsport Hardware studs. Another update coming soonTrack Car Build:http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=365614
Comment
-
Originally posted by 2mAn View PostAre those coppers the original ones? Did you run those on your M52 or something else. I really want to get the OEM ones
No, I thought the original ones were either BKR6EK (Extended Projected Tip, Dual Ground Electrodes) or BKR6EQUP (Projected Tip, 4 Ground Electrodes, Platinum Tipped Fine Wire Center Electrode)
I ran the BKR6E's (Projected Tip, V-Power (V-Grooved Center Electrode))
I don't understand the point of multi-ground spark plugs. NGK says "the spark continually jumps over to a different earth electrode. In doing so, the wear is distributed to up to four earth electrodes and the service life is extended" But from my understanding, its not the ground that typically wears, so why bother? The spark isn't going to continually jump to a different electrode either, it's going to jump the path of least resistance, which seems like it would be the same ground anyway.
The other argument is if you snap a ground off, the plug is still good. Screw that, I want a misfire if a tip comes off, so I can hopefully have the brains to notice and fish it out before it does too much damage.
The V-Power center electrode sounds just as gimmicky. I doubt you can go wrong either way though, and realistically the probability of a ground snapping off isn't really worth worrying about.
The only significant difference is that copper is a better conductor than platinum or iridium, but fouls much faster. I don't mind changing plugs fairly frequently so I chose the coppers for this car.Originally posted by priapismMy girl don't know shit, but she bakes a mean cupcake.Originally posted by shamesonUsually it's best not to know how much money you have into your e30
Comment
-
Originally posted by thestein1016 View PostDepending on how close the main bar is to the roof, you're going to have a hard time getting a torch in there for 360 penetration if you weld in the plinths and do this in two stages. Why not fab everything at once?
Originally posted by Northern View Post[/SIZE]
No, I thought the original ones were[SIZE=2] either BKR6EK (Extended Projected Tip, Dual Ground Electrodes) or BKR6EQUP (Projected Tip, 4 Ground Electrodes, Platinum Tipped Fine Wire Center Electrode)
I ran the BKR6E's (Projected Tip, V-Power (V-Grooved Center Electrode))Simon
Current Cars:
-1999 996.1 911 4/98 3.8L 6-Speed, 21st Century Beetle
Make R3V Great Again -2020
Comment
-
Originally posted by 2mAn View PostI was looking at it again yesterday and Im not sure there is enough space to get a legit plinth box under the hoop, especially with the sunroof and headliner still in the car. Its still technically a street car so I dont want to put a full cage in it until its no longer a street car, so thats why the two step process
So I guess the plugs in the car are OEM ones. I never thought I would see a +4 plug be OEM. Im going to replace these plugs with something else though, Im like you, where I dont mind replacing a plug more often. I will probably buy the Coppers you mentioned.
You'll have to cut holes in your roof all over to weld though and then have to have someone weld the rood back together and paint while not making it look like a wet noodle from cutting material out and then welding it back in. I would seriously consider just doing it all at once.
Comment
-
Originally posted by kronus View Postpro cage builder did a class at our shop and says that it's not uncommon for him to do the inaccessible side of the weld through the gap in the accessible side.
you can also trim the main hoop legs to fit boxes under it.
Thats brilliant.
Comment
-
Simon, I would def take some time and measurements before welding in the cage, especially if u are planning on keeping the headliner and sunroof. The last thing you want is the main hoop to low, and your halo the same height. Nothing worse than your head/helmet hitting tubes.Track Car Build:http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=365614
Comment
Comment