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Bullet Ride's M20 ITB Project: I can go with the flow...

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  • E30_Pare
    replied
    do some pulls without a hood pretty please. Want to see those trumpets flexin

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  • bmwandhonda
    replied
    Originally posted by Bullet Ride View Post
    I've got an external mic. I can probably run it into the engine bay and see how it sounds.
    Yes pleasssseee do :)

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  • ApexGoblin
    replied
    Yes please that would be awesome!

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  • Bullet Ride
    replied
    Originally posted by ApexGoblin View Post
    put that go pro INSIDE the engine bay lol I wanna hear that throttle response XP
    I've got an external mic. I can probably run it into the engine bay and see how it sounds.

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  • DER E30
    replied
    Originally posted by ApexGoblin View Post
    put that go pro INSIDE the engine bay lol I wanna hear that throttle response XP
    It sounds sooo good!!!!:up:

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  • ApexGoblin
    replied
    put that go pro INSIDE the engine bay lol I wanna hear that throttle response XP

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  • Bullet Ride
    replied
    Here are a couple of sound clips...


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  • petrolhead
    replied
    Originally posted by Bullet Ride View Post

    I've got an E21 that I'm going to be starting to work on soon, so I'd be interested to see what you're doing with your M10
    -Dbilas 300 deg/10,5mm cam, 46/38 valves, hopefully over 7000 rpm reliably, 2036cc. Lighten and balance parts. Megasquirt. 262 close ratio box. Random steel header for now. Click my signature, there it is.

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  • Bullet Ride
    replied
    Originally posted by petrolhead View Post
    I read through this. Things like throttle adjustment /synchronization, adjusting the vacuum(s) at idle, and idle adjustment/idle control come to mind. Those throttles don't seem to have any adjustable bypass channels or holes. I don't doubt that you've thought about all that, but I'd be interested to read about it.
    That's a lot of work you're putting into these. I'm trying to make S14 throttles work on an M10, which is simpler but even that takes "some effort". Sure they're not dirt cheap, but I'll just have need to follow the factory repair manual to get everything adjusted correctly (and in the right order).
    There was some discussion about vacuum for brake booster. For example, S14 has pipes for that on TBs 3&4, and that one direction valve is branched/doubled so cyl 3-4 can't interfere with eachother. Sorry for my english, hope this isn't gibberish.

    Cheers, Jarno.
    I wrote a little bit last night about how I synced the throttles. In order to get it perfect I will need to get a couple of vacuum gauges. Idle is set with a single screw on my throttle linkage, and there is no idle control. If I wanted to do idle control I would need to have a manifold connected to all of the throttles that is being fed by an idle control valve. It's doable, but I don't drive my car all year long, only during the warm months so I can get away without having an ICV.

    I've got an E21 that I'm going to be starting to work on soon, so I'd be interested to see what you're doing with your M10

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  • petrolhead
    replied
    I read through this. Things like throttle adjustment /synchronization, adjusting the vacuum(s) at idle, and idle adjustment/idle control come to mind. Those throttles don't seem to have any adjustable bypass channels or holes. I don't doubt that you've thought about all that, but I'd be interested to read about it.
    That's a lot of work you're putting into these. I'm trying to make S14 throttles work on an M10, which is simpler but even that takes "some effort". Sure they're not dirt cheap, but I'll just have need to follow the factory repair manual to get everything adjusted correctly (and in the right order).
    There was some discussion about vacuum for brake booster. For example, S14 has pipes for that on TBs 3&4, and that one direction valve is branched/doubled so cyl 3-4 can't interfere with eachother. Sorry for my english, hope this isn't gibberish.

    Cheers, Jarno.
    Last edited by petrolhead; 05-14-2014, 07:35 AM.

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  • LJ851
    replied
    Originally posted by Bullet Ride View Post
    Like I said...


    Sorry, i missed that.

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  • Bullet Ride
    replied
    Originally posted by LJ851 View Post
    Whats wrong with that TPS ?

    Almost all motorcycles are alphaN so it should work fine?
    Like I said, the TPS reads perfect when I have the car on but not running. As soon as the car is running the TPS signal gets noisy (the TPS gauge on my laptop screen is not stable). It's an electrical issue that needs to be sorted out.

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  • LJ851
    replied
    Whats wrong with that TPS ?

    Almost all motorcycles are alphaN so it should work fine?

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  • Bullet Ride
    replied
    Originally posted by digger View Post
    tried to get MAP running on mine and it did work but Alpha_N worked sooo much better. mine never made huge vacuum anyway at idle
    That's the thing, I'd need to get my TPS sorted out first to be able to use alpha-n. I'd have to do some research to see if there are any other options, but there isn't much room for a TPS any bigger than the one that came on the throttle bodies...




    I'm going to fix my alternator first. Then I'll try a separate harness.
    In the mean time the MAP sensor seems to be adequate.

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  • digger
    replied
    tried to get MAP running on mine and it did work but Alpha_N worked sooo much better. mine never made huge vacuum anyway at idle

    i tried a few TPS's and ended up using a generic one which was a new version of what i had been using since 2007. the new one was noticeably more stable than the used one and im very happy with the signal now. i think it is a wabash brand its worth about 100.

    i have a common mini plenum with vacuum hoses to each individual runner for idle control and fuel pressure, seems to work as good as what it was before

    im taking vacuum signal from two runners for the booster. it seems a little better than the single that the dbilas manifold utilised maybe not quite as good as the original setup at low rpm but does the job.

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