Panici's '87 325is E30 - Boosted In Bronze

[Panici]

lots of good work, keep it up!

Thanks!

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Another wash:










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I changed the oil last week.
Running some Dino 20w50 for now (Castrol IIRC), at least for a few (reduced interval) changes.


Also got tired of the lack of music, so I decided to try and make sense of how the previous owner had the stereo wired.

The crappy Sony headunit that was in the car when I bought it, had four pairs of wires running to the rear of the car, to the factory amp connector. They were crimped onto the factory speaker wires from there.

Unfortunately the factory amp was long gone. I had already stripped out the aftermarket wiring that was running from the headunit to the rear, so I set about using the factory wiring to run from the "headunit" to the amp connector.

Soldered and later heatshrunk the connections in the rear.
Interestingly enough, all four speakers share a common ground wire from the front of the car. It was originally intended to drive a low level signal to the factory amp, but in this case I'm using it to carry speaker-level current for all four speakers. This is definitely a bottleneck.




Then upfront, I did a quick and dirty job of wiring in a hefty 10 amp, 12v -> 24v step up DC-DC regulator along with a small Class-D amplifier board. These are both jammed behind the faceplate (on top of the climate control unit).

I am running both left (and both right) speakers in parallel right now, and I get the amp cutting out / bad distortion at medium volumes. I think the factory speakers are low impedance and in parallel are driving the amp down too low.

Anyways, I did a quick job of mounting a power switch and a 3.5mm aux jack beside my VDO gauge.

This setup is temporary until I get my other gauges installed, then I will probably hide the power and input switches, and potentially add balance and fade potentiometers.

I may also add a twin Class-D amp if I'm taxing the existing amp too much and that is the cause of my cut-outs. It's just as likely that there is a bad connection somewhere, as I did try to reuse as much of the (crimped) wiring that was left from the Sony HU, rather then cutting more off the factory harness.

When the other two VDO gauges go in, I'll probably be redoing all of the stereo wiring with fresh stuff, soldering all the connections as I go.

For now, I have more music then I did before!





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08/17/15 Update

After putting about 2000KM on the car since the trans swap, I am comfortable enough saying that the clutch is broken in. I no longer get clutch chatter when slowly reversing either.

I gave it a good wheelspin launch the other day, and then proceeded to chirp both the 1-2 AND 2-3 shift. :D

The car is slowly turning into what I originally envisioned. Sporty when I want it, but still able to kick back, recline the sport seats, and cruise down the highway and relax.


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09/01/15 Update

E30 is still bringing a smile to my face whenever I drive it.
I changed the plugs today using a set of Bosch Super Plus (7909)

Here is a picture of the old plugs, mileage unknown. Sorry for the poor cellphone quality.


I was careful to clean out the plug recesses with compressed air, multiple times, before I removed the plugs.
I used antisieze and a small torque wrench to reassemble.
Car seems to idle a little better and has less hesitation under 2000rpm.

[Thizzelle]

lots of good work, keep it up!

[Panici]

Nice! :up:

I'm pretty certain i can hear the exhaust blow but I'm sure you will get that sorted!

I agree with the manual box! makes it so much more enjoyable doesn't it?!

In those videos the exhaust was still straight piped!

I did get the muffler welded on, but I didn't use any sealant around the new gaskets for the "catback" section. So I have a leak there which I need to fix.



I tightened my driveshaft collar nut, and made sure the CSB was preloaded properly.
The vibration is still there, but not as bad. I suspect a combination of old rear diff bushings, old subframe bushings, and the driveshaft u-joints with north of 320k KM on them from my parts car.

If I can hold off on dropping the rear subframe until next year that would be ideal. I just want to drive the car for a while. If the vibration gets worse I'll worry about it sooner.

I'm about half way through the break-in of the new clutch at this point. I can't wait to give it the 'ol hard 1-2 shift when it's ready! Also, I've noticed my highway fuel economy has gone down. Probably because I'm spinning 3000rpm at 100kph (60mph). Got to love those 3.73 rear gears!


I finally gave the car a good washing by hand. It brought out all of the imperfections, but the paint is still decent for 28 years old!






















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07/31/15
Took apart the "catback" connection and reinstalled gaskets using red high heat RTV. Letting it cure overnight, hopefully this fixes the exhaust leak at the connection.

Also changed the rear differential fluid, using Redline 75W140 (has limited slip additive in it already)

[cypriotgeeza]

Nice! :up:

I'm pretty certain i can hear the exhaust blow but I'm sure you will get that sorted!

I agree with the manual box! makes it so much more enjoyable doesn't it?!

[Panici]

I got the exhaust welded up today.
I think I have a leak at the connection though. I didn't use any liquid sealant on the new gaskets, so maybe that will help.

Here's a video of the drive to the exhaust shop, still running straight exhaust at this point. Video doesn't do the loudness justice. I was taking it easy, breaking in the new clutch!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZyZ-_w_zNRk

Also today, I made the first decent length highway drive since the E30 has been on the road this summer. I definitely need an alignment. I never did get one when the H&R sports went on, and now I've got the E30M3 offset CABs as well. It feels like there is a dead area in the center of the steering right now.

I fully enjoyed the drive, the car is SO much better with a manual box!

Car also needs a good cleaning outside. I went through a touchless carwash but that barely took any of the buildup off. I'm definitely getting a car cover for this winter.

EDIT: Noticed I'm getting a vibration sometimes when starting in 1st or (more often) in reverse. I think I forgot to tighten my driveshaft collar nut. I'll look at that tomorrow.

[Panici]

Drove around a little today. Car is WAY too loud with straight pipes, gave me a headache after 20 minutes or so. I also was paranoid the entire time that I'd be pulled over.
Going tomorrow to get the muffler put on.

Here's a few pictures from today.
I put the center console back in, and also cut a hole in the 325e air dam for the oil cooler. (pictures of air dam hole can be seen a few posts down on this page)

[Panici]

Finished the swap today!

Garagistic sent me another set of Delrin shift carrier bushings, because the first set didn't fit. This delayed my swap by a week. Turns out, the set he sent the 2nd time STILL didn't fit. I didn't want to wait for anything else, so I took one of the first set and turned it into a thin shim to fill the gap.

Took it for a drive around the block. So far everything works except the reverse lights. I don't think I ever checked if they worked on the parts car this trans is from, so possibly the reverse light switch is bad.

I still have to put the center console back in and sort the exhaust. Also plug the few holes in the bellhousing.

I'm excited to drive around tomorrow and give it a well needed wash!


Here's a video of the idle with the straight pipes.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hd-QA-AJ2Bc

[Panici]

Transmission Swap Cont'd

I haven't updated in a bit, but the swap is almost done!

Currently stuck waiting on a new shifter bushing, as the part sent to me didn't fit my transmission properly (see pic below)

Here are a few pictures of some of the work.



Clutch and pressure plate mounted.




Cleaned up and painted used manual trans crossmember.




Trans bolted up. This was a PITA, even with the jack I rigged up. Would have been easier with another pair of strong hands, although I did enlist my sister's help.




Difference in lengths. Original metal shifter VS replacement.




Shifter bushings that are too thin.




Sheared rubber motor mount on the passenger side. Probably all of the engine jacking without always loosening motor mounts.

Pulled the one from my parts car (which is date stamped as '91) and put it on after cleaning it up.





I also finished the clutch plumbing today. Believe it or not, to mount the supply line elbow to the master cyl, I had to remove the master from the car, which meant removing the hard line and everything. What a pain. My sister helped me bleed the system afterwards.


Oh, I also got the starter wired, the intake elbow and airbox back in, and shot a coat of paint on one of the (rusty) exhaust heat shields. Put new ends on the reverse switch wiring as well.

[Panici]

Transmission swap continued.

I've been busy with other things for the past few weeks. I did get a little work done on the E30 though.


Short bolts (16mm?) for blocking off the old plate style shift carrier. Installed with Curil K2.




Home made clutch stop. Installed slave cyl. Made adapter for brake light switch.






Made a rolling cart for a motorcycle jack we have. Going to use to raise trans.



Removed the entire Automatic harness. Car is now wired like a factory 5-speed.

https://www.genuinebimmer.com/e30-5-speed-swap---wiring.html

Brake line as a template for pipe bending.








Also bent up and installed the clutch hard line. I didn't have a template to follow, so I winged it. Looking at it now I could have done a better job if I bent in three dimensions!


Installed the lightened 325e flywheel with new bolts.




A note on the gall/spacer plate for the flywheel bolts. Although the spacer ring for the automatic transmission looks similar, the auto spacer is thicker (and thus would have less thread engagement for the flywheel bolts). I almost installed the thicker auto spacer by accident, luckily I realized before I had put any bolts in.

[Panici]

Replaced the trans input shaft seal today.

My G260 has the two piece guide tube.
The bentley manual said to only remove the "outer" 6 bolts, but I found that I wasn't able to press the new seal in as there was a lip. I ended up having to take apart the two piece assembly to drive the new seal in.

It might have been possible to just remove the inner 4 bolts, but I would have had to work around the input shaft when driving in the new seal.

Sealed everything back up with Curil T, and replaced the plastic pivot pin with a new one while I was in there.

I was going to assemble throwout bearing today, but I'm not sure which grease to use:

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=360242

[url=https://flic.kr/p/217GvwQ]

[Panici]

Did a few things today.

Replaced the CSB on the 5-speed driveshaft. Unfortunately I destroyed one of the caps taking the old CSB off. I was going to buy a new one, but they're over $20!

I decided to take apart the Auto driveshaft and use the cap from that. I disassembled the CSB and cut the bearing off. If you've ever wondered what is inside of a CSB, here you go!






I replaced the output shaft seal on the G260 with an official BMW seal. I used Curil K2 on the splines, on the threads, and behind the 32mm nut. I also set the new seal a little deeper into the trans.
My lock plate didn't fit very well. I'm not super concerned, as the lock plate wasn't even originally bent into the grooves when I took it apart.

Rather then leave it off completely, I did a bit of a hackjob with some JB Weld. The nut is torqued to ~110ft.lbs so it probably isn't going anywhere.




I got the manual pedal box in the car. Proper number of pedals now!
I still need to install the clutch master & slave cyls.




I scraped off some more of the undercoating on the sideskirts. Then I went to town with a screwdriver to see the extent of the rust. Driver's sideskirt was trapping water.

I shot some Eastwood rust paint on the bad spots afterwords. I forgot to take pictures of that. Honestly it's a temporary job, I don't expect it to last with zero prep work. But it's better then before with the trapped water and exposed metal.

[Panici]

Front LCA replacement + drop hats: Day 3

Mounted both new Lemfoerder LCAs.
Passenger side balljoint was bad, I decided to do both sides at the same time.







Tried in vein to get the lollipops onto the LCAs. I even went as far as grinding down the rough edges on the LCAs. Maybe it's an issue with the Lemfoerder E30 M3 offset CABs?

I decided to build a tool to help me out. (Shown here on the old LCA)



After much struggling using just dishsoap+water, I wasn't able to get the driver's side fully seated, and hadn't even attempted the passenger side yet.

I took the lollipop back off, and sanded down the rubber bushing a little (with a dremel). Combined with some marine grease, I was able to get the driver and passenger side lollipops mounted and the car back on the ground.

Check out the tool after I struggled with the driver's side.




Car is back on the ground (for now). ~4-3/4" clearance under the oilpan.
Should be 0.62"-0.82" lower then before.












Look what finally came in the mail this morning (from ebay). I'll be back at my parents house on Wednesday afternoon and I can install the new input+output shaft seals on the Getrag 260 and get my swap back on the road!

[Panici]

Front LCA replacement + drop hats: Day 2

Although I worked for most of the afternoon, I didn't get a lot done. I was already pretty sore from all the work yesterday, and by the end of today I could barely walk upstairs!


I started by tackling the passenger side lollypop. Not wanting to waste time, I immediately went for the sawzall. Unfortunately I wasn't watching the depth on the opposite side, and I nicked the edge. Oh well, not a big deal.

On the plus side, the bushing came right out without issue using a set of vicegrips.




I then decided to paint both of the lollypops. Too bad I didn't decide to do it before I installed the first bushing.
I knocked all the loose dirt/undercoating off with an improvised substitute for a bench grinder.
Then I shot them with some POR15 degreaser. I decided to skip the POR15 metal prep, not knowing how it would affect the rubber bushing.
I finished with two coats of Eastwood rust paint.

[url=https://flic.kr/p/CwHUWD]








I also shot some paint on the underside of the passenger side spring perch. I was tired at this point so my prep was really lazy. I did use POR15 degreaser, but I'm pretty sure there was still some dirt/undercoating on there when I painted. I'm sure I'll have it apart again at some point (probably for wheel bearings) and I'll do a better job then.


I installed the e90 drophat and thinner spring pad. Then I spent over an hour beating the new E30 M3 bushing into the lollypop. Even split a wood block in half with the 9lb sledge I was using!





Bushing was winning for a little while. Split this wood block in half.


But I finally got the best of it!




I pulled out the Auto pedalbox, and installed the clutch slave grommets in the firewall.




I finished for the day by installing the new shifter joint. Unfortunately it looks like it's built with a slight oval. I assumed the shape of my old one was because of wear, but it looks like the assembly comes like that :( Too bad I bought a new one, it was expensive. I could have reused the old one with just a replacement sponge.

[Panici]

Very Nice thread man! :up:

I'm so glad to see you found a decent shell and have carried over your enthusiasm and hard work into this one!

I Look forward to some more updates!! 8)

Thanks :)
Ask and you shall receive!

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Front LCA replacement + drop hats: Day 1

I worked hard on the car today.

Mostly finished the driver side LCA swap. Part way through the passenger side.

I'm also swapping to e90 drophats and thinner (3mm - 318i) upper spring pads as I go. (stock is 9mm)

I still need to mount the lollypops when the car is ready to go back on the ground. The instructions say to make sure the car is sitting at ride height quickly (within 30 minutes) so the bushings can set when the dish soap lube dries.

What a PITA getting the old bushings out of the lollypop, and pressing in the offset M3 bushing. I got it done with a combination of two sledge hammers, a vice (annoyingly not permanently mounted to anything), a dremel, a sawzall, a piece of PCV pipe, a propane torch, and various pieces of wood and cast iron. I wish I had a press, it would have been a simple job.
I still have the other side to do tomorrow.


On the driver's side I was just following a DIY guide I had printed last year to swap springs/shocks, before changing the LCA. It's quite a pain to work with spring compressors and such under the car. Took more time then necessary.

On the passenger side, I tried something different and started by separating the strut assembly from the LCA. I was then able to completely remove the strut assembly as one piece, without compressing the spring or anything! I'll clean it up and swap the e90 hat and thin spring pad tomorrow in the garage, rather then in the driveway.

After the strut was out, I loosened the engine mount enough to get a socket on the old LCA to subframe bolt, and took it off with the aid of 5 or so 1/2" extensions, a pickle fork and a small sledgehammer.
Note that the pickle fork destroyed the boot on the subframe-to-LCA balljoint. Not a big deal for me as I'm replacing both LCAs. But if for some reason you're planning on reusing the same LCAs, you'll need to find a less destructive method to seperate the LCA from the subframe.

Then with the aid of some fire I got the lollypop off, ready to fight with it tomorrow to get the old bushing out.

[cypriotgeeza]

Very Nice thread man! :up:

I'm so glad to see you found a decent shell and have carried over your enthusiasm and hard work into this one!

I Look forward to some more updates!! 8)