Spring break was car repair time for me, and now it's over, way too short.
The subframe bushings were really corroded to the body. Thanks a lot BMW, it's not like anti-seize existed in 1990 or anything.
My removal tool was a 5/8" bolt with notches cut in the end of it, so it would self-tap into the aluminum.
Then, using extensions (didn't have a punch long enough or sacrificial rod strong enough) went ape on it with a 3lb sledge and beat them out. They left aluminum fragments in the holes, which took about an hour of scraping and picking to remove. That was a serious pain.
The subframe fought me every step of the way. The emergency brake cables were also corroded into the body, I also had to remove the driveshaft to get it out of the subframe tunnel, because it refused to collapse at the splines. Note the subframe bushing washers, covered in corrosion and fused to the centers, I heated them up and persuaded them off with a hammer. Thanks again for using that anti-seize, BMW.
The threads on the passenger side brake line were seized up, so some serious galling took place. Couldn't locate a spare in a timely manner so I just bought a 30", 3/6", M10x1 bubble flare brake line at napa and bent it up to fit. Good as new and cheaper than a bubble flare tool.
Press? What press? I can't afford a press. These are proper kludged subframe bushing removal tools. Heat the subframe with the torch until bubbles of rubber start coming up around the bushing, then whack it out with a hammer.
Kludged TAB removal tool, also torch-assisted.
The leaky axle stub.
It won't be leaking any more.
The new bushings, installed. Yes, the subframe bushing is upside-down in this picture, I realized it and switched it around before raising the subframe. I was a little unsure of the correct orientation because the pictures on the website were a little unclear, but verified that the thick section goes on top.
Here you can see the coated stainless steel brake lines. I haven't had a chance to install the front lines yet so the improvement isn't drastic.
When I installed these, the mounting plate wouldn't line up, and I was concerned about just cranking down on the subframe nut until the bushings squished enough for the plate to fit since they're so stiff. I contacted the people at Condor and they said that's the way to do it, so I cranked away with the big ratchet.
Bushing installed, with anti-seize.
I also fixed my worsening oil leak, and as far as I can tell my engine is now leak free, which is really nice. The steering rack still leaks, though, and I can't afford to upgrade it to one of the Z3 racks at this time so I'm going to just replace it then do that later. The leak was coming from the oil filter housing, the o-ring was hard and squared off, but the gasket was fine.
Installed a new o-ring and cleaned the mating surfaces.
Cleaned up, sprayed the new gasket with copper spray and re-assembled. No more leaks!
The car handles much better now, with bushings that aren't soft and almost separating and new sway bar links. It really feels like a new car compared to when I bought it, aside from my worn out steering rack. The condor bushings are really stiff, and transmit more road noise and harshness, but I have stock shocks and springs so it's barely noticeable. We'll see how it is with some stiffer suspension and better struts. What is noticeable is the diff noise. I recommend these bushings to anyone who wants better handling and a more unitary feeling car, as long as you can tolerate some added noise. I will probably pull the back seat and carpet, strip out the stock noise dampening and lay some dynamat. I like having a quiet car.
On the agenda: custom AC line, AC flush and fill, steering rack replacement, LSD installation (as soon as I get one), and bigger, wider wheels with better tires (mine suck, really bad).
The subframe bushings were really corroded to the body. Thanks a lot BMW, it's not like anti-seize existed in 1990 or anything.
My removal tool was a 5/8" bolt with notches cut in the end of it, so it would self-tap into the aluminum.
Then, using extensions (didn't have a punch long enough or sacrificial rod strong enough) went ape on it with a 3lb sledge and beat them out. They left aluminum fragments in the holes, which took about an hour of scraping and picking to remove. That was a serious pain.
The subframe fought me every step of the way. The emergency brake cables were also corroded into the body, I also had to remove the driveshaft to get it out of the subframe tunnel, because it refused to collapse at the splines. Note the subframe bushing washers, covered in corrosion and fused to the centers, I heated them up and persuaded them off with a hammer. Thanks again for using that anti-seize, BMW.
The threads on the passenger side brake line were seized up, so some serious galling took place. Couldn't locate a spare in a timely manner so I just bought a 30", 3/6", M10x1 bubble flare brake line at napa and bent it up to fit. Good as new and cheaper than a bubble flare tool.
Press? What press? I can't afford a press. These are proper kludged subframe bushing removal tools. Heat the subframe with the torch until bubbles of rubber start coming up around the bushing, then whack it out with a hammer.
Kludged TAB removal tool, also torch-assisted.
The leaky axle stub.
It won't be leaking any more.
The new bushings, installed. Yes, the subframe bushing is upside-down in this picture, I realized it and switched it around before raising the subframe. I was a little unsure of the correct orientation because the pictures on the website were a little unclear, but verified that the thick section goes on top.
Here you can see the coated stainless steel brake lines. I haven't had a chance to install the front lines yet so the improvement isn't drastic.
When I installed these, the mounting plate wouldn't line up, and I was concerned about just cranking down on the subframe nut until the bushings squished enough for the plate to fit since they're so stiff. I contacted the people at Condor and they said that's the way to do it, so I cranked away with the big ratchet.
Bushing installed, with anti-seize.
I also fixed my worsening oil leak, and as far as I can tell my engine is now leak free, which is really nice. The steering rack still leaks, though, and I can't afford to upgrade it to one of the Z3 racks at this time so I'm going to just replace it then do that later. The leak was coming from the oil filter housing, the o-ring was hard and squared off, but the gasket was fine.
Installed a new o-ring and cleaned the mating surfaces.
Cleaned up, sprayed the new gasket with copper spray and re-assembled. No more leaks!
The car handles much better now, with bushings that aren't soft and almost separating and new sway bar links. It really feels like a new car compared to when I bought it, aside from my worn out steering rack. The condor bushings are really stiff, and transmit more road noise and harshness, but I have stock shocks and springs so it's barely noticeable. We'll see how it is with some stiffer suspension and better struts. What is noticeable is the diff noise. I recommend these bushings to anyone who wants better handling and a more unitary feeling car, as long as you can tolerate some added noise. I will probably pull the back seat and carpet, strip out the stock noise dampening and lay some dynamat. I like having a quiet car.
On the agenda: custom AC line, AC flush and fill, steering rack replacement, LSD installation (as soon as I get one), and bigger, wider wheels with better tires (mine suck, really bad).
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