Bronzit E30 - OBDII S52 shaved bay - weekend/autox toy - Journey

**MaxBell** · 09-01-2016, 08:51 AM

Those LEDs are really cool. I'd love to see what's possible in the rear tail lights.

**Jaker** · 09-01-2016, 10:55 AM

I had the Polymatrix "E"s on my car for a really long time. I too had the squeal of death with cold daily driving efforts. I just recently changed to Ferodo DS2500s. This is a popular autocross compound for many different cars. I have not been able to drive the car with the new pads yet. It's currently under the knife. Should be on the road in the next couple days.

**Sh3rpak!ng** · 09-02-2016, 06:51 AM

Originally posted by MatRacer

Each time I look here, I'm just amazed!

have you tried these spring spring yet? How is the ride with this pretty high stiffnesses?

Thanks man! yes, I've been driving for 2 weeks or so now and they feel GREAT, I did not expect to feel such a difference in general driving. It's definitely smoother than before, and the stiffer rear springs made the rear feel more "tight" and composed. It's commonplace to have ~100lb difference F/R due to the rear spring/shock/trailing arm geometry. I have yet to autox it like this, but I am attending an event on the 18th.

Originally posted by MaxBell

Those LEDs are really cool. I'd love to see what's possible in the rear tail lights.

Thanks! I think I'll be leaving the rear lights alone for now. The regular bulbs work well enough for me :D

Originally posted by Jaker

I had the Polymatrix "E"s on my car for a really long time. I too had the squeal of death with cold daily driving efforts. I just recently changed to Ferodo DS2500s. This is a popular autocross compound for many different cars. I have not been able to drive the car with the new pads yet. It's currently under the knife. Should be on the road in the next couple days.

After more research I read many people complaining of the same thing

I'll take a look at those pads, haven't heard of them before. I'm assuming they fit the wilwood calipers? Are they streetable? I'll be checking back with you in a few days to get your opinion. I've been thinking about the hps or wilwood BP-10 pads for the front to daily/autox, and/or swap in the Es at the autox. I do want more cold bite for the street than the BP-20s provide.

**Sh3rpak!ng** · 09-02-2016, 08:55 AM

Originally posted by Jaker

I had the Polymatrix "E"s on my car for a really long time. I too had the squeal of death with cold daily driving efforts. I just recently changed to Ferodo DS2500s. This is a popular autocross compound for many different cars. I have not been able to drive the car with the new pads yet. It's currently under the knife. Should be on the road in the next couple days.

Looks like the FPR504 is the correct pad shape for the wilwood dynapro caliper with bridge bolt? And FRP504H is the ferodo PN for the DS2500 pad?

**Jaker** · 09-05-2016, 06:39 PM

I went looking for what caliper you're using but 50 pages is a lot of digging. I have the forged Dynalite 4 piston 120-6818 which is supposed to use the #7112 pad. Ferodo had no direct fit for that shape. I bought the FPR502 which fit the caliper and the pin location, and I "massaged" it slightly with the angle grinder and a 4 1/2" cut off wheel to give the inner radius that the 7112 has.

No racing impressions yet, but daily driving its quiet and stops quite nicely. I only have 1 day on the pads so far though.

**Sh3rpak!ng** · 09-06-2016, 06:29 AM

Originally posted by Jaker

I went looking for what caliper you're using but 50 pages is a lot of digging. I have the forged Dynalite 4 piston 120-6818 which is supposed to use the #7112 pad. Ferodo had no direct fit for that shape. I bought the FPR502 which fit the caliper and the pin location, and I "massaged" it slightly with the angle grinder and a 4 1/2" cut off wheel to give the inner radius that the 7112 has.

No racing impressions yet, but daily driving its quiet and stops quite nicely. I only have 1 day on the pads so far though.

Your calipers are very similar to mine. Looks like yours have a c-pin, and mine have a special clip and bridge bolt. So slightly different but more or less the same pad shape/size. Mine use the 7812 pad shape.

Looking at ferodos website, they list the PN FRP502 for the Dynalite c/pin - Th. 12.4mm (what I think you have) and the PN FRP504 for the Dynalite b/bolt - Th. 12.4mm (what I have). Interesting you say you still had to adjust it a little, but as long as you got it to fit I guess that's all that matters.

I am very glad to hear the early positive review though. They're not really expensive either.

**Sh3rpak!ng** · 09-06-2016, 01:14 PM

Went for a drive with some locals via the monthly neptunes cruise. We match up the cruise/meet with the supercar sunday marque days, meet at SS, drive, and grab brunch. Always fun especially with a good group.

Beer to match the car?

Started prepping the core support for reinforcement.

Welded plates over the front

Shaped and tacked the plates for the bottom

And finished. It's damn strong now. I can lift the car from that bottom lip without any discernible flex to the core support. Now I feel comfortable bolting my skid plate back onto it. At this point, it would've made more sense to have gone the rear sump, tubed subframe, and relocated swaybar route.. oh well. Next time.

Then I got really annoyed as I was looking for a particular screw I knew I had somewhere in this pile. So I dumped it all out of the cubby onto the bench and organized it. OCD.

So much better. I always hated rummaging around with a flashlight for these things.

Before I paint this piece, I need to cut out some sections and make some modifications in preparation for a big intercooler to sit behind it. It'll be very tight, but preliminary measuring has me believing it'll fit. I want the top of the intercooler to be no higher than the top of the bumper, and bottom to be flush with the bottom of the valence. With some cutting of the bottom edge of the bumper, and a big chunk taken out of the valence, I believe I will be able to fit roughly a 3"x10-11"x25-28" intercooler with side exits. I am trying to keep it roughly the same size as the original intercooler for this kit which is 3"x10.5"x24" core. You can kinda see a rough idea of where I plan to cut.

I also plan to mount the PS cooler directly behind the bumper after I cut holes in it like I did before

**glnr13** · 09-06-2016, 01:22 PM

looks good charlie

**2mAn** · 09-06-2016, 01:33 PM

I really hope we get a good group of E30s together for the autocross on the 18th. I also hope that I will have a seat to sit in so I can join you guys

**Sh3rpak!ng** · 09-06-2016, 01:42 PM

Originally posted by glnr13

looks good charlie

Thanks Glen! Missed you sunday morning!

Originally posted by 2mAn

I really hope we get a good group of E30s together for the autocross on the 18th. I also hope that I will have a seat to sit in so I can join you guys

Did you sign up? I was going to do it when I got home Friday, then got an email saying the event was full literally minutes before I got home

I emailed and left a message on their site asking to be wait listed but haven't heard back :(

**2mAn** · 09-06-2016, 01:54 PM

Nope, dammit....

**Sh3rpak!ng** · 09-09-2016, 07:32 AM

Ordered the Ferodo DS2500 pn FRP504H which is supposed to be for the wilwood dynalite with bridge bolt here

Also ordered the fittings and hose to finish the PS setup now that I finalized positioning of everything.

Made my own bridge bolt and spacer for the calipers. I bought what I thought was the correct kit from wilwood way back when I bought the calipers, but it wasn't right and now wilwood does not have a PN for the bridge bolt kit on their page for these calipers. Really not complicated to make it myself, it's just a long allen head bolt with a piece of aluminum tube cut to the right size in the middle. When I was bleeding brakes last and had a friend pumping them for me I saw that the caliper flexes quite a bit without the bridge bolt.

Finished welding/modding the lower opening in the valence. Came out nice! I used some scraps from the center section that was cut out to match the contour of the edges where the old cross pieces were cut from the sides and bottom.

I enlisted the help of some friends to start sanding the hood, fenders, bumpers, and valence to prepare for paint finally!!!

Had to sand down quite a bit in some spots where the paint cracked and found tree rings of the hood's life... apparently its been painted a few times! But as far as I can tell, its straight which is what matters.

**2mAn** · 09-09-2016, 07:49 AM

Hurry up and get this thing nice and shiny

**badwella** · 09-09-2016, 07:55 AM

That's a great idea with that core support reinforcement. Definitely going to do that to mine.

Aside from the outside sections, why didn't you use a single piece for the center?

**Sh3rpak!ng** · 09-09-2016, 08:15 AM

Originally posted by 2mAn

Hurry up and get this thing nice and shiny

the deadline is Friday since I have a good college friend and car enthusiast visiting, plus the event on Saturday

Originally posted by badwella

That's a great idea with that core support reinforcement. Definitely going to do that to mine.

Aside from the outside sections, why didn't you use a single piece for the center?

Because if I used a single piece, it would only be tying into the metal of the core support to the edges, and not any part of the metal behind the plate which I felt kinda "wasted" the metal behind it. Sectioning it spreads the "attachment" points all throughout the metal of the core support and fully integrates the reinforcement utilizing the strength of the original core support in addition to the plate reinforcement. Hope that made sense. Also probably total overkill. But now it's bomb proof :D

If I were to do this again, I would've just custom rebuilt most of the core support with tube or something which would've been stronger and also would've taken up less space, leaving more room for intercooler/oil coolers/thick radiator/fan

Bronzit E30 - OBDII S52 shaved bay - weekend/autox toy - Journey

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