Bronzit E30 - OBDII S52 shaved bay - weekend/autox toy - Journey

[Sh3rpak!ng]

Still needs a tune ;)
And the lifter tick is normal. You need to overfill oil slightly for autox

Read between the lines... I want to get a hotter cam to go along with a tune ;) which gives me a full blown reason to pull the cams to get to the lifters, change my valve cover gasket which is slow leaking, sneak in the arp studs one at a time, AND add an AN fitting to the VC to plumb the custom catch can I also didn't mention I have an aem wideband/gauge on my bench to aid the tuning process :firehop: It's finally happening!! If anything, I'll skip the regrind and do everything else. I still have enough little projects to justify the full endeavor. I've been really keen on getting your tune in the car for quite a while!

And I did have the oil overfilled. Didn't help so I'll go through all the lifters just for peace of mind since they'll basically be in my lap while I do all of this.


And somewhere within all this stuff, I need to paint my bumpers, valence and maybe the fenders and hood. That shit's been killing me every time I look at it.

[2mAn]

Looking forward to V2.0 exhaust setup. glad I could help. you know Im just giving you a hard time about the Bronzit, but it would help if the paint stuff was done. Listen to me talking about cosmetics ... I dont even know who I am anymore

[Sh3rpak!ng]

Looking forward to V2.0 exhaust setup. glad I could help. you know Im just giving you a hard time about the Bronzit, but it would help if the paint stuff was done. Listen to me talking about cosmetics ... I dont even know who I am anymore

Hahaha you know that phrase "its a slippery slope"? I think you're slipping down it pretty fast.

Its always fun when a car drives much better than it looks, butttt I definitely prefer when the car looks really good, and drives EVEN better

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[Sh3rpak!ng]

Got a little dirty in the bay after the last autox. That drizzling rain was annoying. Oh well. It's meant to be driven and get dirty.





Acquired a wideband and pod





Some electrical connectors to finish off the front harness. More of these on the way.





Pulled this custom catch can made by saikou michi out of my parts stash for the e36 since I won't use it there anymore. Unfortunately I had it made to fit the e36 so the brackets/sight glass/fittings aren't in the ideal places. Not sure if I can make it work or not.





Also pulled out a set of ARP studs. These will go in :)





And lastly, an item I have been dying to get my hands on for a long long time. A set of euro s50b32 headers :devil: They were already reworked to fit the e30 bay too! Not 100% sure if I will use them. It'll come down to whatever is appropriately sized for supercharged power. I also have the set of headers off the e36 - raceland supersprint euro replicas (which are larger than the raceland US ss reps).

[Sh3rpak!ng]

Got the last pieces of the puzzle in a big box from tischer BMW. Brake ducts, some random plastic fasteners, a new driver wheel well splash guard and the last of the electrical connectors. Believe it or not, those wires and connectors were over $100..... :( I did a lot of research, and they are all made specifically for BMW and only available through them







And no week is complete without a little surprise from the e30. It's like a slightly dumb, but lovable and loyal dog; pees on the carpet every once in a while, but you still love him to death. The return spring on the clutch pedal slipped out of place and smashed the plastic elbow connecting the clutch fluid feed line to the clutch master which spilled a lot of fluid into the driver footwell. Closer inspection of the return spring shows that the shaft bent


Here you see the spring jammed against the fluid line.





And that's the end of the line with the broken half of the connector

[2mAn]

dammit! so no driving tonight?

[Sh3rpak!ng]

dammit! so no driving tonight?

Don't think so, unless I can get the parts from BMA today (doubt it). I have a feelibg that clutch return spring will be special order.

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[2mAn]

dont rush it, get it done right. the roads arent going anywhere

[Sh3rpak!ng]

dont rush it, get it done right. the roads arent going anywhere

Yea the clutch return spring is special order, and ~$80 ouch!!! I'm going to try to fix mine

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[potatomash]

Your hidden ABS pump is genius, I just welded up plates in my bay and was just going to put it in stock location but not after seeing yours! Did you manage to suss all the bleeding issues/trapped air?

[Sh3rpak!ng]

Your hidden ABS pump is genius, I just welded up plates in my bay and was just going to put it in stock location but not after seeing yours! Did you manage to suss all the bleeding issues/trapped air?

Yes, seems the pump was never part of the issue. Further research and testing supported that the abs pump is "open" at it's resting state and can't trap air. I think there was air in the MC when I first installed it (or somehow it was bad) since I didn't bench bleed it first. After swapping MCs the mushy pedal was gone. Now I'm just fine tuning the manual setup.

[s14brent]

Changed the MC yet again to a 20/20 MC which believe it or not was listed on realoem right under the PN for the original 17/22 MC. F

wish i saw this post sooner. i just bled the brakes on my car tonight since scrapping the idea of using a 750il mc. I'm running manual brakes so i need the third port. (the one on the bottom). is this the part no for future reference? 34311157206 - thanks!

[Sh3rpak!ng]

wish i saw this post sooner. i just bled the brakes on my car tonight since scrapping the idea of using a 750il mc. I'm running manual brakes so i need the third port. (the one on the bottom). is this the part no for future reference? 34311157206 - thanks!

I used this number: 34311154918 for the 20/20mm

The number you posted (34311157206 ) is the original 22/17mm

[Sh3rpak!ng]

Made some progress.

Bled the brakes again. Got some good bubbles out of every corner (I knew it needed it since I rushed bleeding after swapping the MC). Also installed the HP+ rear pads. I read somewhere that the rotor should either be new or refinished before installing these pads - that true? (is that true for any brake pads?) Regardless, brakes feel better! When I put some pressure into them, they really stop hard :) and it's very easy to modulate.

Also started installing the wideband gauge.

[Sh3rpak!ng]

Some updates.

Wideband is installed and working nicely. Though what should've been a simple plug and play had its hiccups. First, I had welded a bung ages ago in anticipation, but used a huge plug to close it in the meantime which had like a 25mm head on it with very narrow flats to get a wrench on. It was nearly impossible to loosen it with such a huge wrench and no space but I managed after like an hour of swearing wriggling around on my back... then tried to tread the sensor to find the hole wasn't big enough I tested fitment with an old narrow band sensor which has a smaller sensor head. So I wound up having to pull that section of exhaust anyway enlarged the hole a touch, and reinstalled it all good :) The rest was easy since I installed the ignition switched fuse box under the dash. Took me far longer to trim the base of the gauge pod to fit against the dash than it took to wire it up. I passed the wideband harness through the ECU grommet, behind the dash, to the aux fusebox. Easy.


Bung that needed to be enlarged. You can barely see the edge of the pipe that was sticking out... it was like .5mm too small





Made a bracket to mount the aux fusebox and ground strip since the double sided tape was failing (I knew I should've done this from the beginning....) Love the mig welder :) and then I noticed I never closed the valve on the tank of C25 after I last used it so what was nearly a full bottle is now nearly empty :-x cue Dwight's voice calling me an idiot.





Got a new bluetooth obd2 scanner since my old one died. I had it a few years. This one works well and is smaller too.







Aux fusebox with plenty of additional ports :)





Here's the view from the driver seat. Now I finally have all the gauges I planned on from the beginning. And I know there are gauge pod options to stick them in the vents, or down low, but I prefer to have them in my relative line of sight, and they do not block sight of the road and also keep my vents functional, so at least I can get some heat in the "winter".





Also finally started to do the 2nd round hid retrofit. This time I've got morimoto mini v7 projectors and the latest v2 retrofit kit from squared. The projectors are quite a step up from the 6.0s. Quality is definitely improved, as is the overall fit and finish. Haven't had a chance to experience them at night yet though. The new 2.0 squared kit is top notch as well. Fit like a glove.





Projector assembled, ready to drop in to the modified housing.





I'll be attending the July 30 autox with scca in irvine. Hoping to get a few items ticked off before then: clean and undercoat the front wheel wells where I welded, install the fender liners, finish the front wiring harness, refurbish the euro trim, paint the bumpers and valence, maybe fenders and maybe maybe the hood.