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86 eta 5.0 swap...

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    Originally posted by varg View Post
    Bummer. Does it hit the head or just the valve cover?
    Valve cover, would hit the valves underneath too, even with stock valves. Probably would just touch the head as well, couldn't get very far with it in place, thankfully only secured it with 2 nuts.

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      Is there any benefit to making the driveshaft 2 piece? The E30V8 instructions say a 1 piece shaft can't be removed/installed easily, I'm wondering if it's worth it/possible to have the driveshaft shop keep the stock split location.

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        Meanwhile, got this on the way, thanks to Mykk540i/6.

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          Hit the junkyard, grabbed a starter and a set of GM LS truck coils.

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            Upper intake is painted.

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              Originally posted by Elysian View Post
              Valve cover, would hit the valves underneath too, even with stock valves. Probably would just touch the head as well, couldn't get very far with it in place, thankfully only secured it with 2 nuts.
              Good to know. Looks like I'll be doing further research on manual brakes.

              IG @turbovarg
              '91 318is, M20 turbo
              [CoTM: 4-18]
              '94 525iT slicktop, M50B30 + S362SX-E, 600WHP DD or bust
              - updated 3-17

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                Originally posted by varg View Post
                Good to know. Looks like I'll be doing further research on manual brakes.
                What about hydraulic?

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                  Had time for real minor stuff yesterday. Grabbed a pair of 7/16-14 set screws, a 7/16-14 tap, and plugged the two vacuum lines that interfere with my valve covers. Didn't need them anyways, but used red Loctite, just in case I ever did need them again.



                  Also picked up a PCV grommet. Need to finish up the wiring on top of the motor and start putting the intake manifold on. Not sure which direction I'll be bolting the manifold on, any input is welcome.
                  Last edited by Elysian; 07-25-2018, 05:48 AM.

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                    Added AT LEAST 40hp today.

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                      Great seeing it come together! Keep up the good work

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                        Fuel rail came in, started putting it together to see if the intake fits. It doesn't, but it won't be hard to fit, the fuel rail is just barely touching the bottom of the manifold in one spot. Plenty of meat to clearance there.

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                          Fuel rail came in, started putting it together to see if the intake fits. It doesn't, but it won't be hard to fit, the fuel rail is just barely touching the bottom of the manifold in one spot. Plenty of meat to clearance there.

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                            Got most of the wiring done. Need to wire up the TPS and idle control, drill/tap for the idle air temp sender, and mount the alternator to include that wiring. Coming along nicely.

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                              Originally posted by Elysian View Post
                              What about hydraulic?
                              Expensive! For the money I'd rather get an aftermarket pedal box with 3 separate masters. Current plan is a smaller bore master cylinder and altering the pedal ratio.

                              IG @turbovarg
                              '91 318is, M20 turbo
                              [CoTM: 4-18]
                              '94 525iT slicktop, M50B30 + S362SX-E, 600WHP DD or bust
                              - updated 3-17

                              Comment


                                Originally posted by varg View Post
                                Expensive! For the money I'd rather get an aftermarket pedal box with 3 separate masters. Current plan is a smaller bore master cylinder and altering the pedal ratio.
                                What's expensive about it? Ford used hydraulic brake boosters in the Mustang, can find the setup in just about any junkyard. GM also used them quite often. You'd probably still have to move it up or over to clear the valve covers, but doesn't seem too expensive to me.

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