*!Build of the year candidate!* Strange PNW Build: E30+Volvo

[lukeADE335i]

Once the 5 pot goes in, it's going to have people scratching their heads at shows for sure!

Great work Adam. Looking forward to seeing how the dash ends up.

[adam.nonis]

Mock up front clip thanks to Zephyr! Get this propped up and use it to mock up all the components for the swap ahead of time to ease the swap into the Amazon.

[adam.nonis]

A little more dash work. Trimmed down the interface plates, added spacers to accommodate upholstery materials and a bit of air so they don’t squeak or anything.



Regular resin



Add thixotropic



More work tomorrow before work maybe

[adam.nonis]

*!Build of the year candidate!* Strange PNW Build: E30+Volvo

(SOLD)

DIY ITB Starting point $150

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?share_fid=17284&share_tid=425750&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Er3vlimited%2Ecom%2Fboard%2Fshowthread%2Ephp%3Ft%3D425750&share_type=t

[LateFan]

I wound up with the engine I will eventually swap into the Amazon. It’s the same engine as in the Ford Focus RS. Good for 300hp out of the box.

I had no idea this was the same as the Volvo white block. Crazy. That was when Ford temporarily owned Volvo?

Where in Seattle do you send your Volvo bits for machining?

Alodine is a conversion coating for aluminum that is used in the aircraft industry. It’s sort of like anodizing in that it converts the surface of the aluminum to resist corrosion.

This is what alodine looks like. Usually parts are soaked in it, and I’d probably need to use a spray bottle and spray the main setup.

I like it. If you soak a head or block in it, what happens with the machined surfaces? Do the clearances change, need to be re-cut?

[adam.nonis]

I had no idea this was the same as the Volvo white block. Crazy. That was when Ford temporarily owned Volvo?



Where in Seattle do you send your Volvo bits for machining?

Shhhhhhhh.... Ford Focus RS sounds way more impressive.

I took the head to Action Machine in Shoreline and they were awesome to work with.

I like it. If you soak a head or block in it, what happens with the machined surfaces? Do the clearances change, need to be re-cut?

I’m sure it will since it’s a conversion material (sort of like anodizing). That’s why I’m going to try and spray it on with a spray bottle and see what it does (with the engine assembled).

[LateFan]

haha, right...shhhh!

Seems like I was told long ago the white block head needs to have a bolted on jig to keep it flat while machining, so it sounded like it needed someone who knew those engines.


I'm always frustrated when cleaning / degreasing aluminum blocks or valve covers and getting the black staining in the aluminum. Maybe I need to learn to be patient with Dawn and a brass toothbrush!

[adam.nonis]

*!Build of the year candidate!* Strange PNW Build: E30+Volvo

haha, right...shhhh!



Seems like I was told long ago the white block head needs to have a bolted on jig to keep it flat while machining, so it sounded like it needed someone who knew those engines.





I'm always frustrated when cleaning / degreasing aluminum blocks or valve covers and getting the black staining in the aluminum. Maybe I need to learn to be patient with Dawn and a brass toothbrush!

I’m not sure what kind of jig they could bolt to from the cam side. They were familiar with the head, the fact that the RNC uses solid lifters, the OEM head gasket composition, etc. I feel they’re solid.

Yeah, I’m going to have to scrub deeper before this block is ready for action.

[adam.nonis]

Took some time this morning and on lunch to take measurements as best I can. The depth measurements are accurate. The inner surface of the two bellhousings are just “best I can” measurements. I scribed every inch going in (then two more at half inch in the Getrag).



Then I broke out the trust old “large scale” MDF calipers



Took a bunch of measurements



Converted the measurements to 2D CAD



Overlaid the two



Looks like the M20 throw out bearing contact surface will line right up with the B5254T clutch fingers.



I won’t be able to set final depth until the clutch slave cylinder shows up to measure resting depth. If my math/understanding is right, if I put a spacer between the flywheel and pressure plate that is the thickness of the clutch disk minus frictions (at least to the rivets) than tighten the pressure plate down, the finger height should be the maximum “stack height” and should be where the throw out bearing surface rest depth is. Correct? (Does that even make sense)

[adam.nonis]

Always love getting a box-full-o-parts!

[LateFan]

[ATTACH]123605[/ATTACH]

[adam.nonis]

Some more dash work. I didn’t place the ribs exactly right (protrusion wise), but it’ll be good enough. I plan on adding a “chrome” (polished aluminum) strip between the top and bottom half. Black top, red bottom.

Reference:





Now for the foam



And roughed to shape



Next I’ll resin coat it to make it a bit more rigid, then start filling.

[parkerbink]

Wow.

Speechless I am.

[oekundar]

What don’t you do? Well done sir!!!


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[Fsnow]

I dont really know what the hell is going on here , but i like it. Keep up the good work !!