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S14b23 Drivetrain overhaul and concours restoration.

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  • Jordan
    replied
    Todays big project was building out the throttle bodies, which was a royal paint in my ass, mainly because I blew them apart so fast and failed to pay much attention or take useful pictures... whoops.

    Scoured the internet for a bit and found a few helpful photos along with the ETK that helped me get it all back together right.



    A reminder or from where we've come...






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  • Jordan
    replied
    Normally 100% I would stagger the splices, but the jacket they are retracted into is large enough diameter to fit them all so its of no matter.

    Built out the power steering pump this evening with a ZF reseal kit.





    and to show just how far its come.

    Last edited by Jordan; 12-22-2018, 09:53 PM.

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  • moatilliatta
    replied
    Originally posted by Jordan View Post

    You can gap the splices 1/2'' or so if you have enough material so you don't have one big lump of splices in one spot.

    I've been enjoying these E30 Revival threads!

    Hmm, an early car?

    Leave a comment:


  • Jordan
    replied
    Originally posted by SkiFree View Post
    I'm most impressed by the combination of speed AND quality. I firmly believe that anyone (given enough effort) can do a project either quickly or with high-quality workmanship. To pull off both at the same time is impressive. It means you have built a great network of guys who share the same fastidious attention that you do, which is NOT easy.

    Love the pictures.
    ....and this is all being worked as a side job, outside of this I spend about 50-55 hours a week at the shop conducting normal business.

    I'm really happy with how this project is coming along, and the owner seems so as well.

    Originally posted by Melon View Post
    You zinc played the grounding strap.
    I wasn't really sure how well that would come out but it looked bad before so I tossed it in to see. Came out OK, but I'll probably run some heavy duty heat shrink over the braided portion.

    This evening was build a diff night. Earlier in the day I soaked the case and carrier in the ultrasonic cleaner at work for an hour to get it sparkling clean inside and out. Given that this diff only has 40k on it and the bearings feel butter smooth we decided to leave them alone. Same with the clutches. I did test the break away torque of the clutches before teardown and found them above spec so that is that.

    All of the components laid out, except the pinion shaft seal which I somehow overlooked ordering...



    New OES side cover seals pressed in



    Carrier suspended in the housing between both side covers with the back cover ready to go on (new bushing pressed in last week)




    and all done



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  • Melon
    replied
    You zinc played the grounding strap.

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  • SkiFree
    replied
    I'm most impressed by the combination of speed AND quality. I firmly believe that anyone (given enough effort) can do a project either quickly or with high-quality workmanship. To pull off both at the same time is impressive. It means you have built a great network of guys who share the same fastidious attention that you do, which is NOT easy.

    Love the pictures.

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  • TeXJ
    replied
    I'd have no clue on where it went lol

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  • Jordan
    replied
    All of the hardware came back from plating today. Turned out very nice for 31 year old rusty crap.




    I shall be able to start reassembling some of the vapor honed parts now that I have hardware. Now if I could just remember where everything went, that's the trick.

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  • AndrewBird
    replied
    Heat shrink tubing would be a close match. Would make it easy to slip on as well.

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  • Melon
    replied
    Originally posted by Jordan View Post
    The original!

    If you heat one section with a heat gun it becomes soft and supple so you can easily force the non heated section inside the hot section.

    Once cooled its pretty well fixed in place.
    Good to know! Those look fantastic.

    I'm looking to replace the loom on mine for the oil pressure sensor wire running in front of the timing belt, it's old and cracked, I don't believe I can coax any more life out of it.

    Aftermarket ones are corrugated stuff, or the weave, both are acceptable, but far from oem.

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  • LJ851
    replied
    Originally posted by Jordan View Post
    If you heat one section with a heat gun it becomes soft and supple so you can easily force the non heated section inside the hot section.

    That's what she said.

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  • Jordan
    replied
    The original!

    If you heat one section with a heat gun it becomes soft and supple so you can easily force the non heated section inside the hot section.

    Once cooled its pretty well fixed in place.

    Leave a comment:


  • Melon
    replied
    What are you using for the rubber wire loom. I can't find anything aftermarket that matches that.

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  • Jordan
    replied
    Picked up a harness snippet from a 325e parts car over at my buddy Thad's house today, a few wire colors vary but the AFM and Barometric Pressure Sensor connectors are the same. Carefully spliced it into the M3 harness to repair the lopped off section and pulled it back onto itself for as close to a seamless repair as practical.



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  • TimeMachinE30
    replied
    Damn, here in MD.

    Very cool.

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