My 2002's resurrection - 56k go die

[Ray Smoodiver]

Moulded turbo spoiler? Man that is trick

[Turf1600]

Looking good man. FYI that thing is 10x nicer than my 72 was...

[backtrail69]

I may have to steal that rear spoiler idea from you. I have a turbo front airdam and a ACS widebody for my car and I need some kind of rear spoiler as well. Molded looks CLEAN.

[Justin B]

Cool! Any of this stuff I'm doing is just how I want it, and nothing else. I don't mind at all if anybody else thinks it's cool and wants to imitate it. It's nice to know other people think it looks good too! Just about to head out into the garage and see what kind of stuff I can catch on fire. (Undercoating ignites pretty easy)

[Justin B]

Alright, quickie mid day update here while I take a break. Camera batteries were about to die anyway so they'll charge and I can resume taking pictorz of my progress.

Pictures of my unintentionally perfect dolly -



Roughed out landing plates. I have a similar set for the driver side. The inboard ones shy away from the transmission tunnel a little so I'll either box them with some extra metal, or heat them up and bend them flush with the tunnel. The latter only requires a little more work to cut/grind the bars that will go between them in order to meet the bent metals' contour. Not sure which way I'll go with that yet.



First weld, and my camera battery started complaining -



How the car sits in the garage currently. It's a tight fit but there's just enough room to work on it. When I replace the nose, I have plenty of room to push it out of the garage door (5' or so) before the dolly wheels fall onto the driveway. The front two wheels have brakes on them anyway though.

[clavinZERO]

hella nice welds... like a row of coins flopped over.

[Justin B]

'Nother quick update. The first plate is fully welded on, inboard side, halfway welded on. I'll do the same to the driver side and maybe the rear plates before I decide whether or not I'll box or bend the inside plates. Bending seems a lot easier, but the cross bars would probably be a little trickier...
Anyway-
Welds would have been titties all the way around except I pushed my luck a little bit and the seam sealer packed down between two metals decided to catch fire and contaminated the shielding gas a little on the back side. It's still solid as hell, though.

Tacked on inboard side. It's welded along the backside now, and the rear half of the bottom edge. I'm leaving it that way for now to decide what to do later...

Here's an idea of what's going between them. There will be rear plates as well, but I wanted the front ones in first as they sort of dictate the minimum height possible (due to the bump in the floor right below). It's made from 1x1 L stock going side to side held together with two lengths of 1x1 square tubing.

[golde30]

sweet, git er done for Bfest09!!

[Justin B]

I'd be happy if I have the bodywork done by then man! Shit needs WORK. I plan on taking classes at Indian Valley College this semester (if I can get in, classes start on the 20th and I haven't even enrolled yet...) for bodywork and painting, so that should give me a leg up on how to do some of the more tedious stuff.

Aside from bodywork, which would be AMAZING if I could get done in a month or two, the whole thing needs to get painted, and rebuilt. Still a lot of test fitting and things to do before it's road worthy :)

Besides that, I need to design an entirely new wiring schematic for the entire car. No wires left, and what was left, which you can see in previous pages, was torn out. Shit was no good.

I'm putting the fuse panel somewhere in the car, perhaps the glove box or on the pass side of the console, and welding shut the original 12-fuse fusebox hole in the engine bay.

[Justin B]

Oh and FWIW, the driver side plates are welded on now as well. I was crowded into the driver side rear passenger foot well area so the ease of getting a good angle on the MIG gun was a little harder. Top weld came out nice again, everything else solid as a rock, but just not as pretty. The inside one however I did burn through the tunnel in one spot though, so the weld going up it is by far the least photogenic. It's somewhat smooth, though a little more bulbous towards the back due to extra weld metal to fill in the hole. I have no problems trusting the strength of the weld though, shit is stout.

[Justin B]

Before I weld the rear plates on, I might cut out the rusty area of the pass side front drain hole and patch in a piece from some scrap floor pan I have from my rusted out, RIP, white 02 that started this whole M20 business.

[craz azn]

One question, where did you get the fiberglass hood and trunk from? They look awesome! I wouldn't mind a set for my project '02. How much did they run?

?

[Justin B]

Sorry, I must have missed that question, from way back...whenever :)

I got it from one of the infamous COOP group buy's. This one in particular occured in 2004. IIRC, it was something like $1000 for both the hood and trunk lid.

I forget the actual manufacturer, but they're out of SoCal. I've heard that they will continue to make more of them, and that at least the CF ones are supposedly cheaper now than when they were initially produced for the group buy. I'd assume that the fiberglass ones are in the same boat. I'll have to do some searcing on the '2002FAQ message board to find out the manufacturer, but I'll do that tonight and get back to you in this thread.

[Mot]

Looking good justin. Glad to see your making progress on it again.

[Justin B]

I got curious, so I went in search of it early -

This is what you are looking for... http://www.americaninternationalraci...259246&page=56

Still about $1025 for a fiberglass set, but available individually. Come to think of it, it was more like $1200 in the GB, but whatever it was, that's what it now.