Labor of love from Australia - Malachtgrun convertible running restoration

[Tzantushka]

Update with some pics from the rear bumper refit.
Quick and easy job when the bumper is straight.

Firstly, the diagram in Real OEM shows different fixing arrangements for the bumper end caps.
Plus it's not really clear.

Plastic end cap is attached to the bumper by 2x phillips head screws per side (#25).
The diagram shows a hex head.

The bumper end cap shows two options:

A) A hex head screw & short rubber hose as a seal (#17 & #18)

B) A hex net, spacer, rubber washer , flat washer and hex bolt (#24, 23, 22, 21 & 20)

Mine had neither.
Just a simple hex head screw and speed nut clipped into the bumper end cap.

Note the different length screws.
Left = shorter = screwed through the quarter panel from inside the trunk.
Right = longer = screwed through the rear section of the wheel arch



Firstly, gave the inside of the bumper a spray with Penetrol.
It's a great product to defend against moisture & rust and dries to a flexible film.
Kinda like the cosmoline style coating the factory applied to prevent corrosion.



Protect the bumper with rolled-up towels ready for fitting.



With the bracket already attached to the bumper, offer the bumper up and hand tighten the nuts bracket nuts from inside the trunk.

For the sides. no need to remove the trunk lining - I assume the Germans thought about access to the screws?
Use a screwdriver to help locate & centre the bumper sides.



Pro tip...
Use a magnetised socket or bit of Plasti Tackon the hex head.
The left over self-adhesive (from the spoiler) also help keep things dust and water tight.





Loosely tighten while you get the bumper alignment right...



This socket & extension combination gives good access to the bumper bracket nut up near the rear muffler



More jiggling and tightening to even the gaps and centre the bumper...
- bumper to rear brackets
- rear brackets to body
- bumper sides & end caps



It actually came up really well!




Plus a shiny new boot roundel.



Finally the clean rear trunk liner.



Which had a few repairs done with shoe glue and duct tape to keep things together for another 30+ years.



The re-chromed bumper, new end cap, refurbished spoiler, polished taillights and paint correction really lifts the back of the car.
FINALLY the front and back are looking great and water tight.

[Tzantushka]

Well, decided to take the car to work on Friday last week to give it a bit of run.
It was cold winter's day (7 deg C) so I cranked the heater.

Hmm, what's that sweet coolant smell.
As it turn out the heater core is weeping and I have a coolant leak in the heater feed line.
90% of the hoses are original - so they are due.

But checked the expansion tank when cold and it was VERY low - almost empty!
Lucky, but what the?
Why didn't the coolant level sensor light-up in the check panel?

Er... I see. No float.



Apart from the water pump & expansion tank cap everything is original.
Cooling system refresh is overdue.

I already have a new expansion tank & have parts coming in from Denmark, USA & Australia:
- Behr heater core & new heater valve
- Radiator, heater, throttle body hoses & throttle body gasket
- Coolant tank level sensor
- BMW blue coolant

Going to be a fun few evenings.

[luckybk]

you have to pull the dash for the heater core right?

[Tzantushka]

you have to pull the dash for the heater core right?

Thankfully no.

As it's a RHD car, lots of room to work with :)

[Geezus]

This is turning out great. I love that color on it. is that an OEM paint option?

[Tzantushka]

This is turning out great. I love that color on it. is that an OEM paint option?

Thx!

Yep, it's 205 Malachitgrün Metallic (Malachite green).
Understand not offered in the USA - but as a rest of world option.
And not commonly found.

I like to say it's a German Racing Green!

[evandael]

I love the color but I even more love your detailed nature. Great work and great documentation.. I'll be bookmarking this thread for my own cabrio 'running restoration'!

[2mAn]

This has been a great thread. Love the care this car is getting.

What are the "long term" plans for this thing?

[Baur_Hour]

Love the detailed progress!! Car is looking great.
I'm about to do a heater core replacement on mine too - chilly Tassie winter means I have taken the car out a grand total of one time this winter.🥶🥶🥶

[Baur_Hour]

Love the detailed progress!! Car is looking great.
I'm about to do a heater core replacement on mine too - chilly Tassie winter means I have taken the car out a grand total of one time this winter.🥶🥶🥶

[Tzantushka]

This has been a great thread. Love the care this car is getting.

What are the "long term" plans for this thing?

Thx for stopping by.
Long term plans?

Honestly, they've changed a few times.
With a 320i you always feel a bit inadequate... Would love to put a M20B25 or even a stroker.
But being a convertible it's more a of a cruiser.

And the way prices are going for these cars (e.g. as seen on BaT) I'm partial to keeping it as original as possible and neat as possible.
It's never going to be a concours queen and I don't have the $$ nor time nor space for a back to shell resto.

So now I'm going to make it nice, neat & original and enjoy the hell out of it.

[Tzantushka]

Love the detailed progress!! Car is looking great.
I'm about to do a heater core replacement on mine too - chilly Tassie winter means I have taken the car out a grand total of one time this winter.🥶🥶🥶

Yep, I'll drive it once or twice a week - but need that heater for sure.

[Tzantushka]

While I'm waiting for the heater & cooling system parts to arrive, I painted the LH side sill to match the RH side (which was done several months ago in SEM trim black).

Given I had to mask off part of the car and already had the paint out - why not dress-up the windshield rubber lock strip?

I have the chrome lock strip that has turned a crappy yellow & black colour after all these years.
Eventually I'll need a new windshield, but for the moment I don't really fancy spending $$$ to buy a lock strip or the hassle to install it.

With some leftover brown paper, masking was really easy.
Tape over & trim around the lock strip with a knife.
A quick rub with 500 grit, wipe down with wax & grease remover and 3 coats.

Before



During



After





But it's better than before.
In fact, the satin black doesn't look too bad.

Yes, the purists would be in horror - mixing shadow line with chrome...
I'll get a chrome lock strip when the glass eventually needs replacing.

[econti]

Looks better black IMO

[Tzantushka]

Looks better black IMO

Every time I walk past I tend to agree more with you :)


Further update...
The cooling system refresh started with a number of places – dead level sensor, leaking throttle body coolant gasket, 30+ year old hoses, and a weepy heater core.
The heater core was more involved than I thought.
I won’t bother doing a write-up as others have described it much better than I could.

RHD for the win - Lots of room to work with!

But I will share a few helpful tips & observations along the way:

1. Plastic sheet & duct tape
Underneath the heater box acts as a ‘bib’ for the eventual spillage of coolant when you disconnect the heater core.
Pop a bath towel on the sheet to absorb the coolant and it won't leak thru the towel.
Leave the sheet in place for reassembly, in case you drop the square nuts when reassembling things.
Murphy’s law means the nut will slide down behind the carpet or down the plastic heater ducts under the carpet.
(the ones that directs air to the back seat footwell if you have them)






2. Replacement heater control valve
Is much bigger and JUST fits.
Rather than spending the mega $$$ to buy a new one – if I had my time again, I’d disassemble and replace the o-rings.




3. Behr AM heater core isn’t as good as the Behr OE one
I ended up getting a Hella Behr version made in China from FCP Euro.
Came with a self-adhesive foam trim – but had to re-use the foam block from the old heater core.
New heater core is thinner but fits into the housing OK



And the fins are flimsy (flat) compared to OE (zig-zag)




4. Cleaning tips
Antibacterial wipes - fantastic for wiping down the inner section of the heater box
Small brush vacuum attachment - If you have A/C this is you can vacuum the crud without damaging the evaporator core.
Check the A/C condensation drain rubber and heater core drain rubber is not blocked and drains into the transmission tunnel hump.