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    #31
    Congrats on your first Track day and continual sorting of you're E30!

    You can get New superseded Bosch Gen III Injectors

    https://www.fiveomotorsport.com/0280...3-bmw-m70-m73/
    Last edited by moatilliatta; 02-11-2021, 08:47 AM.

    I was up above it, Now I'm down in it ~ Entropy - A Build thread.
    @Zakspeed_US

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      #32
      Originally posted by moatilliatta View Post
      Congrats on your first Track day and continual sorting of you're E30!

      You get get New superseded Bosch Gen III Injectors

      https://www.fiveomotorsport.com/0280...3-bmw-m70-m73/
      Track day was a ton of fun. Sorting not so much. I looked at going back to stock-spec injectors but wasn’t sure how it would effect how it runs. I know it runs good with what it has, so I just stuck with a rebuild kit for those for $20 vs a new set of injectors

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        #33
        A good track day is just the reward of good sorting and prep! :)

        The only hypothetical issue that I can think of is that better atomization of gen III 4 pintal could cause a leaner burn.

        We did have to richen up the a tune in a Racecar, but no AFR log on stock injectors before hand.

        But it would save from dropping pintal caps into the intake.

        I was up above it, Now I'm down in it ~ Entropy - A Build thread.
        @Zakspeed_US

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          #34
          What's the craziest thing you have found in an engine?
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          I knew that the injector cap was hiding in there, but I would have never suspected that a hose clamp would be waiting in cylinder #6 along with it. Initially I thought that it fell in there when I pulled the intake manifold off, but the injector cap was resting against it along with discoloration from heat and years of grime. I was and still am in shock at how the engine has survived. I've beat on in for the past three years and took it to the track on possibly the hottest day of the year last year. Who knows how long it has actually been in there.

          Back to the project. I pulled to intake manifold off to remove the injector cap pictured above and save the other five from falling in as well. Removal was actually pretty easy thanks to the following thread and video:
          **DIY tips and tricks for intake manifold and valve adjustment - R3VLimited Forums
          E30 Intake Manifold Removal and Refinish - Wrinkle Finish - YouTube

          The oil return tube spring was so gritty that it actually held itself in place once I pushed it down. Turning the manifold counter-clockwise once it is past the small studs helps clear the coolant hose so you can pull it the rest of the way off the one extended stud. The hardest part of all of it was removing the stuck on gasket material. That process took just as long as removing and installing the manifold.
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          The rebuilt (again) injectors were installed on the bench this time to ensure no caps fell off. Much easier.

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          Oil return o-ring has seen better days and is probably the cause of all the wetness on that side on the engine so that was replaced along with the bottom side.
          Everything went back together smoothly. Car took a while to clear up but it's running good again. Good enough to take to the track but that will have to wait now. This was a big lesson on "If it's not broke, don't fix it". I've always been that type of guy even sometimes a "If it's broke but still works, don't fix it". I guess I need to go back to my old ways.

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            #35
            This past weekend, I took the car to Carolina Motorsports Park for a track day. I've been wanting to drive here for a while as I think it's a good learning experience before I get to Road Atlanta eventually. It's a lot more technical than Roebling and a lot more punishing on the brakes but a very fun track to drive. The day started off slow but after the first two sessions I got placed into the fastest group in the class. The event was still Lead/Follow with the instructor due to COVID protocols. My group consisted of me, A newer 1LE Camaro, newer M5 and 2018 911. I was easily outgunned on the straights but I held my own through the corners. The car did extremely well and I learned that keeping the oil level above full by ~1/4 to 1/2 qt keeps the oil pressure nice and high. Next on the list of modifications will likely be spacers for the rear and some race springs. These sport springs let the car roll so much. This does help me feel the weight transfer in the car but it is extremely exaggerated with this setup.
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            The bumper came loose after the first hard session. I think It's time to paint the plastic bumper and put it on.
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            The video is the first lap I actually got to push the car. Unfortunately the memory card maxed out at the end of the lap and the progress I made throughout the day was missed.


            Last edited by GSU_ENGR; 03-30-2021, 07:57 AM.

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              #36
              Looking smooth!

              Does your visor keep coming down? Best practice is to keep it down.

              I was up above it, Now I'm down in it ~ Entropy - A Build thread.
              @Zakspeed_US

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                #37
                Originally posted by moatilliatta View Post
                Looking smooth!

                Does your visor keep coming down? Best practice is to keep it down.
                In the video yes, I didn’t realize how much I kept pushing it up until I watched it back. I borrowed some anti-fog spray after that session and left it down for the rest of the day.

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                  #38
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                  Purchased some FK racing springs after the last track day to improve the handling. They are used FK springs in pretty good shape. Install went pretty smooth other than the left rear which was a battle due to the exhaust not allowing the trailing arm to drop enough to get the old spring out. My thought process might have been flawed though. Now the car is substantially lower in the front and now I have increased the odds of crushing my oil pan substantially. So a new UUC skid plate was ordered as soon as the car got parked from the test drive. This car is slowly turning more into a track car than street car but that's ok.
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                  Before
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                  After
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                  There was a lot of rake initially but the rear has since settled. Getting in and out of the driveway involves a lot of scraping on the exhaust, so that needs to be addressed. But I'm happy with the look and feel of the springs. Now to see how they really do on track in two weeks.

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                    #39
                    Coming along very nicely! I’m enjoying the progress
                    Simon
                    Current Cars:
                    -1999 996.1 911 4/98 3.8L 6-Speed, 21st Century Beetle

                    Make R3V Great Again -2020

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                      #40
                      If the rear is loose, you can try removing or putting thinner spring pads in the back. Looks like a lot of rake.

                      Excited to see how it does!

                      I was up above it, Now I'm down in it ~ Entropy - A Build thread.
                      @Zakspeed_US

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                        #41
                        Dude, this thread is getting me excited. I am currently dreaming about my long-time-bucket-list first track day sometime within the next few months once my car is ready and your experience got me looking forward to it even more. I can't wait. I like all the progress you've made on yours and it has me wondering if I should research the oil pan baffle and crank scraper route for mine.

                        One thing that I hate to break to you though, your life would've been 100 times easier with the steering coupler replacement had you pounded a stubby flathead screwdriver into each slit of the splined portions of the coupler to expand them a bit, it's why they're there in the first place. It's still a bit tricky, but it makes sliding them on and off worlds easier. You can also loosen the big nut on the steering column just above the pedals inside the car and get some movement in the steering shaft that way. I can only imagine how shitty that must have been without spreading them haha. Just for future reference in case you ever need to pull it off again but are dreading the process. I've done it twice in the past month on two different E30's without even having to touch the steering rack mounting bolts or tie rods. Anyways, keep it up and get more track days in!
                        Last edited by CubbyChowder; 03-27-2021, 07:53 PM.


                        --Roundie Revival 2.0 - 1973 BMW 2002 Build Thread--
                        --Golden Boy E30 Build Thread-- (sold)

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                          #42
                          Originally posted by CubbyChowder View Post
                          Dude, this thread is getting me excited. I am currently dreaming about my long-time-bucket-list first track day sometime within the next few months once my car is ready and your experience got me looking forward to it even more. I can't wait. I like all the progress you've made on yours and it has me wondering if I should research the oil pan baffle and crank scraper route for mine.

                          One thing that I hate to break to you though, your life would've been 100 times easier with the steering coupler replacement had you pounded a stubby flathead screwdriver into each slit of the splined portions of the coupler to expand them a bit, it's why they're there in the first place. It's still a bit tricky, but it makes sliding them on and off worlds easier. You can also loosen the big nut on the steering column just above the pedals inside the car and get some movement in the steering shaft that way. I can only imagine how shitty that must have been without spreading them haha. Just for future reference in case you ever need to pull it off again but are dreading the process. I've done it twice in the past month on two different E30's without even having to touch the steering rack mounting bolts or tie rods. Anyways, keep it up and get more track days in!
                          I didn't think a baffle and scraper was necessary until I saw what happens to the oil pressure on track. It is absolutely necessary if you plan on tracking your car. If you just want to do one track day and be done (you won't), then don't worry about it. The biggest issue is the oil deprivation in long sweeping left handers and even some right handers. I saw a massive drop in pressure and ordered the baffle and scraper as soon as I got home and it's unbelievable how the car holds oil pressure now. Also, you need to run about at least 1/4 quart above the full line on the dipstick. Some SpecE30 guys run a full quart over. But research your track you plan on going to to see how tough the left handers are and that will determine if you need the parts before you go. But definitely get the car out there, it was the best decision I've made.

                          I can't remember if I tried the screwdriver trick but I'm pretty sure that I did and the SOB was still a pain.

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                            #43
                            Originally posted by moatilliatta View Post
                            If the rear is loose, you can try removing or putting thinner spring pads in the back. Looks like a lot of rake.

                            Excited to see how it does!
                            The pad removal is a good point. I am worried that the car wont make it out of the driveway if it gets any lower. So I'll be taking it to a friend's house to make a better tab that brings the exhaust up and then I will take the pads off.

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                              #44
                              I have a couple questions for the more experienced.
                              1. While taking everything apart and do my pre-track inspection, the brake pad backing was flaking off. I assume this is just due to high heat in the pad during the last event. Is this correct? If so, would brake ducts be the best recommendation? Pads are Hawk HP plus
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                              2. With lowering the car as much as I did with the race springs, should I be running adjustable sway bar end links?

                              Thanks.

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                                #45
                                You'll eventually get past the Limit of HP+. Which doesn't take to long if you keep at it. Then could look at HT-10 or a PFC pad. The PFC 08 is a great long lasting pad that inst too aggressive, IE street tires.

                                Maybe eventually go less aggressive on rear pads depending on driving style.

                                A lot of spec E30 run no ducts. But varies on track.. Advanceautofab makes a brake duct kit, AAF. With a "Spec E30" Prepped car I've got away with using the 2 outer lower duct holes on the early damn. Little trickery to put together. I have P/N for the ducts if you go that route.

                                Maybe able to make just a air deflector like Porsche use if you just need a little extra.

                                What fluid are you using? Did you get brake fade?

                                I wouldn't worry to much about adjustable links until you go coil overs and trying to corner balance the car.

                                I was up above it, Now I'm down in it ~ Entropy - A Build thread.
                                @Zakspeed_US

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