Originally posted by mjweimer
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And down the rabbit hole I went. It appears that boiled linseed oil is the ticket, and requires little prep. Helps seal the porous paint, as well as exposed metal.
Originally posted by e30austin
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Got her back from alignment today and took the car for a shake down. The powerflex rear subframe bushings were a bad move- NHV went up quite a bit, but the reduce in flex is noticeable.
The rear end is very crashy. I have the rear 5"x2.25" GC springs/adjusters as high as they'll go and the car is crashing over even the smallest bump. I suspect shocks are out of travel, but would still like to get the rear end higher, so perhaps a 6"x2.25" rear spring is in order, and potentially Mustang Konis.
The good is that the front end feels excellent with the GCs and E36 rack and centered E36 CABs. I wanted to see how the camber plates aligned out and found this....... only two bolts in the camber plates. Wondering what went wrong to require so much adjustment. Perhaps something in the plate is assembled incorrectly? Pretty sure two bolts per plate isn't going to cut it. I could see three, but two..... no way that adjustment is going to hold.
The other positive is that my rear fender roll worked well, and there is no rubbing!

Rear end still slammed after adjusting the rear all of the way up

Oh, and in the process of sealing up the cabin I found my wiper issue. These three ground wires (that you can see by accelerator pedal linkage on the left) were exposed and touching the pedal box when driving, causing the wipers to actuate/spray. Sealed them up, and problem solved! Have an ignition tumbler rebuild on order as well as the two firewall plugs for the locations shown below, but BMW NA is taking their time on orders at the moment. The firewall grommet was mostly removed causing a ton of water ingress, so I was able to get that reinstalled as well. The heater valve failed, too, so am going to steal a few seals from mr EDC Matthew and rebuild the one on the car.

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