OFFICIAL Land Rover thread.

[LateFan]

Here's what I want! A FOUR door, Heritage green, white-topped, manual, 4 cyl, 110 for sale. I thought the Heritage models were all D90s, I've never seen a 110. The last handful of Defenders off the production line got one of four trim packages as collectors items. The Heritage was an old school pale green with steel wheels, painted grills, and galvanized bumpers. They look a lot like old Series LR's.

https://www.my.na/product/10093/land-rover-defender-heritage-limited-edition-collectors-item/

850,000 Namibian dollars is $54,000. Too bad if you brought it here they'd seize it.

I like it. Paint the wheels LR white and get rid of the side steps.



Heritage models -

[LateFan]

Motor Trend comparo of Defender and Jeep Rubicon - just specs to specs, no actual testing yet. Interesting - digital vs analog.

https://www.motortrend.com/news/2020...ngler-rubicon/

For the James Bond stunt, it says all they did was add a roll cage inside.
https://www.motoring.com.au/new-land...rashed-122898/

What is a loaded semi doing in a dry riverbed full of sand? Or maybe that's the only flat place to drive...? Funny, these are the press cars out in Africa.
https://www.motoring.com.au/new-land...ruckie-123192/

EDIT - Video here......

https://www.facebook.com/624763317/videos/10157275698008318/

[LateFan]

The new Defenders are being tested by journalists in Namibia in Africa. They can't release any driving information until the end of March per some marketing timing agreement with LR.

I'm not fully endorsing this new one yet, and I don't like to sound like a fanboi, but there are some things I think will be impressive when actual testing gets published. I read that they are over 10 times stiffer than the old Defender, and 3 times stiffer than any body on frame vehicle they've ever produced. They took their newest aluminum chassis design, which will be shared with some new Discoveries I think, and beefed it up for stiffness, strength, and durability. The subframes are way heavier, control arms, everything. The body control and traction control for crawling around are impressive, and locking diffs. It'll cruise though 3 feet of water. It has skid plates. It can lift itself up to over 11" of clearance. I saw a video of one teeter-tottering on opposite corner tires, and the doors opened and shut like on flat ground. No twist.

They'll never cut into the market share of Toyota in out of the way places, but there apparently is a simpler, coil spring version for sale in third world markets. You can order a base model with steel wheels and Duratrac tires and fabric seats (but...for 50 grand).

There's no way to really compare the old and new, it's not apples to apples. The old ones are 50's, 60's tech - essentially a tractor like a Unimog. The new one is a mass produced, highway-comfortable, capable off-roader with quiet and safety.

So, we'll see. It'll be interesting to see real off-road tests by the magazines. Still a really expensive car though. I saw some new spy shots of the new Bronco yesterday, and it looks fairly small and no nonsense. Not sure which engines - I assume a turbo 4. The Defender has a bunch of engines around the world, but I think we'll get a 4 and a straight 6 in the US.



I think the exterior cargo box is silly. Maybe useful..?

[LateFan]

[LateFan]

[mrsleeve]

OHHH I Didnt know the control arm was "hollow" on the underside, I assumed there was a flat bit of steel boxed across the bottom, (if you mentioned that I must have missed that part) that would not have allowed semi easy access to cut that SOB out. You defiantly did the right thing, and I would have likey done it the very same way, or maybe used a wizz wheel cutter. Great job and glad to see you got it all handled this weekend and everything thing went well

[LateFan]

5 pics per post it says.......






Shiny new bolt. Nut appears to be the oval self-locking type. We cranked it on with the impact. Book says 184 ft-lbs, so we were close with our Harbor Fright. Buttered the sleeve and the bolt with anti-seize.


This...is what you need.



It was fun to put the fuses back in and fire it up. It pumps up quick! Usually more rear first, then the fronts level up. The compressor went off in a couple of minutes, and that's from completely empty. It used to run for a few blocks after you warmed it up. So that strut had to be leaking, and it's hard to find because the bellows folds down over itself, and often covers up the leak and pushes it shut. And you don't drive around in high mode with the struts extended - I think at 25 or 30 it automatically lowers back to normal height.

If it starts to droop in a week, we'll be pissed.

[LateFan]

The rear side...ZING!

The forward side...thin-sliced roast beef!


The short bit of bolt head fell out of here, but the rest is bonded for good.



Just for fun, we pounded on this bolt with a big punch and a sledge to see if we might have broken the bond - zero movement. It was never coming out.

[LateFan]

Turned out pretty easy. Generic DeWalt rental sawzall, with my Diablo carbide tipped blade.

We only had it high enough to take off the wheel, and then collapsed the suspension, so we couldn't raise it higher safely. That meant we couldn't hold the saw horizontally and get at the bushing and push down. I had to be on my back with my left forearm pushing up on the blade and my right middle finder hooked in the trigger upside down.

Zip zip, went right through.

I didn't want to bugger up the welded and machined bosses on his control arms, so I pushed the blade tight to the strut and cut all the way through the steel bushing and bolt together. Took the paint off the blade, but no discernible wear on the teeth.

Control arm looking straight up. Forward is up in the pic. CV boot not far away, so careful with heat.



Forward side of bushing much narrower.


Bolt head recessed in arm.


Nice tidy mushroom.


That's a rust drip of PB after days of soaking. No movement at all.

[mrsleeve]

good deal that makes its much easier, and less of a PIA.

post up what you did to get freed up, I am always intrested on how people solve stuff like this to file away for future use if need be

[LateFan]

Not trying to save it. New bolt and nut on the way.

[mrsleeve]

Also can you get a new bolt relatively easily it may be worth cutting mashing and buggering up a 10 dollar bolt to get it out with less frustration than trying to keep it serviceable, as you have heat treated it and likely removed some or all of its spec'd strength as a critical suspension component fastener

[mrsleeve]

Ahhh gotcha, on the bolt type, I know just what you are talking about. The press will work once the inner bushing sleeve gets bound up against the inner edge of the control arms smaller hole. You may have to break the system down and reheat once you get it lose from the rubber part and then continue on with the press, A traditional C-Clamp will not generate the needed force, that C- Style press should capable of 10-12+ tons of clamping force if you push your luck with a 2 foot breaker bar applying the torque, that would be dangerous though and I highly doubt it would take that much to get it to budge with a liberal enough application of the heat. You could also try to get the bolt good and hot then rapid quenching the bolt shaft while under tension from the press (or big C clamp if thats all you have access to, with the sleeve of the bushing pushed up against the inside of the control arm. The rapid contraction associated with the cooling of the bolt shaft and even moderate tension might get to dis bond as well. You might have to get a bit more heat on the situation than propane can generate, Mapp gas is a good home gamers alternative to an oxy fuel rig, but that might be what it takes to get things up to the temps needed fast enough before you heat soak everything else as well.

As to hammer on hammer, it transfers the force of the hammer blow, but dampens the sudden impact forces that is the main cause of the deformation of what ever your whacking, as the hammer in the middle takes the impact force and just transfers it to the stuck bolt. Think about the balls on string when you pull one back and let it go, and hits the other 5 and the one on the other end is the only one, that moves, same idea. Wear some impact rated glasses when whacking hardened steel together its dangerous as it can fragment, do you have 4lb brass mallet? My 1st go to for anything like this is my 4lb brass mallet

[LateFan]

Propane.

Bolt head changing color.

Both sides of bushing smoking. Just trying to expand and contract the bolt so it'll suck in some PB.

Doesn't do you any good to get the bushing out - the steel sleeve won't come through the control arm. The bolt ø is exactly the control arm hole size for alignment accuracy.

Threads are not ruined. There is about an inch and a half of necked-down bolt end much smaller than the threads. Hex shape. I can sacrifice that end. Even just started on loose, the nut is over an inch back from the end - you can't hammer on it. I read about hammer on hammer technique - not sure why that has any effect unless you can't hit a bolt square.

I've seen c clamp solutions - it doesn't feel like anything would be able to "push" it apart. I just saw a video of a LR shop where they couldn't get these same size bolts out of the control arm bushings with air hammers or anything. They cut the legs of the control arm off (1/4" steel) with a disk cutter so they could get the cutter wheel on the bolt and cut it.

[mrsleeve]

Define torched? Like a propane or mapp gas, or do you have a oxy fuel rig? Mapp might get it hot enough to get the rubber bushing to weaken enough to allow you drive it out with a hammer.


Since it sounds like you have destroyed the end of the bolt with a hammer ( when whacking a bolt with a hammer more than a couple times leave the nut on it threaded to just flush so it protects the threads). from the control arm photo, is there a bit of a lip on the bottom side of the control arm like there is on the top? If so cut the mashed up end of the bolt off as square as you can, go rent a the biggest bushing press you can find (looks like a really beefed up C-Clamp) POUR THE HEAT TO IT get it red if you can, then use the press to get the bolt shank started moving, (since the head side of the bolt is in a recess on the other side it should be enough to get broke lose) and then you should be able to drive it the rest of the way out with a big ass drift punch.

Bushing press for reference
https://www.amazon.com/OrionMotorTec...1632307&sr=8-2