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Hey guys. I have a set of Old Man Emu (ARB) Hydro Charger Sport shocks that will fit Trucks and 4Runners from '86-'95. Part numbers- front 60072 rear 60065. Low miles that were all highway miles.
$200 shipped in the states http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/pts/5767575383.html
That's a good deal. Any interest in splitting them up? I need a set of fronts.
The very rough around the edges, bulletproof DD. 2001 4.7l Automatic Access cab Toyota Tundra. I sometimes fight the urge to ditch it and pick up something more engaging to drive, but I invest too much of my income to justify spending the money on an M5/M3/etc. yet.
Plus it snows, and I have no fear in the winter, no matter how much snow falls. Plus it hauls a loaded car trailer pretty well, and I do a lot of home upgrades and this hauls lots of lumber/materials with ease.
Plus 2, like I said earlier even with 285k miles, and a very obvious history of being severely abused most of its life, this thing is bulletproof. Ice cold winter starts early in the AM don't phase it one bit. Full trust in this vehicle, which is big to me. If anyone is thinking of getting one, do it. Will not regret it.
Inspector said the frame had rusted through at the right rear control arm mount. I didn't believe him, because I've looked the truck over and didn't see anything past surface spots here and there. How could it be rotted through in one area?
Well, I was proved wrong. Sounds like it's common to since it's so close to the muffler. Other side is solid.
Oh well, it was an excuse to go buy the rest of my welding supplies (already have the welder.). Working on it tonight, cut the exhaust on the front side of the muffler and it swung out of the way to give me room. I'm in the middle of cutting away the thin stuff. I bought a 3x48" sheet of 1/8" steel.
Plan is to cut a piece to fit in flush with the frame, then slap another on top of it with overhang. I bought some rustoleum cold galvanizing spray and black paint. Figure I'll also throw some undercoating on top of it all.
My only concern is what to do about the inside where I won't be able to spray?
Part of me wants to just not worry about it, I know that if it rusts out once it will happen again and I'll be right back at it in 5 years.
No E30 Club
Originally posted by MrBurgundy
Anyways, mustangs are gay and mini vans are faster than your car, you just have to deal with that.
Well this has been a long night. I'm actually surprised how well it turned out, I've never had good luck with flux core Mig in the past. Then again the last time I mig welded with the stuff I really had no clue what I was doing.
On with the show, letting it cool now then paint. They aren't the prettiest, but I wasn't about to spend the money right now on a tank for gas shielding. I'm confident in it.
No E30 Club
Originally posted by MrBurgundy
Anyways, mustangs are gay and mini vans are faster than your car, you just have to deal with that.
When you get it cut open, take the hose to it and blow out all the dirt you can and wire brush (by hand) all the lose scale you can get off. POR 15 as much as you can, but staying back away from where you will be welding (bad fumes) , and then coat as much of the inside of the frame as you can with Fluid film. For where you will be welding 3M makes a weld though primer you can use to cover the last little bit close to the weld area on the inside and inside of the filler plate. . The weldable primer is very expensive though IIRC last time I bought a can it was like 40 bucks and does not go
very far.
If there is a factory drain/access hole somewhere close by you can for go a lot of the prep stuff, and just clean it up really good, and hose the shit out of the inner part of the frame and new filler with fluid film when you are all done..... Or just say to hell with it fix it as best you can, and worry about it when it comes back (do you think you will still have it when it comes back?)
Edit: You had it fixed by the time I got my response typed up lol. I would not worry about it too much, looks like you have much better sucess, but you had a little more meat to deal with gluing to than I did..... Looks like a solid repair to me
Originally posted by Fusion
If a car is the epitome of freedom, than an electric car is house arrest with your wife titty fucking your next door neighbor.
The American Republic will endure until the day Congress discovers that it can bribe the public with the public's money. -Alexis de Tocqueville
The Desire to Save Humanity is Always a False Front for the Urge to Rule it- H. L. Mencken
Necessity is the plea for every infringement of human freedom. It is the argument of tyrants.
William Pitt-
Yea I figured screw it an went to town lol. Cut out a decent chunk and cleaned out inside the frame as best I could. Even inside the frame on the outer side there wasn't any rust. It was literally this one spot, kind of makes me want to replace the muffler with a resonator to give a little more clearance.
There's enough holes in the frame in the area I can definitely spray some of the galvanizer in there and follow up with a coating. I'll look into the fluid film.
I honestly don't know if I'll have it when this resurfaces. The whole family has fallen in love with it, We'll probably use it until it's not realistic to repair anymore. I honestly don't see why I couldnt get it to 500k at this point though.
No E30 Club
Originally posted by MrBurgundy
Anyways, mustangs are gay and mini vans are faster than your car, you just have to deal with that.
Fluid Film is kinda pricey but is available everywhere, and not toxic shit, its mostly Sheeps wool oil, very sticky and lasts on the outside of my frames for a winter season for the most part, other than very high wear areas. I apply once in Oct/Nov and run till high wear areas dont look greasy anymore and take a "warm" winter afternoon to crawl under shit hose and power wash and reapply normally sometime in feb on DD's. I do wash my rigs down once a week or every day if wet salty/chloride exposure is bad or have driven a lot that day.
Takes about 3 cans per rig for me average to get decent coverage
Originally posted by Fusion
If a car is the epitome of freedom, than an electric car is house arrest with your wife titty fucking your next door neighbor.
The American Republic will endure until the day Congress discovers that it can bribe the public with the public's money. -Alexis de Tocqueville
The Desire to Save Humanity is Always a False Front for the Urge to Rule it- H. L. Mencken
Necessity is the plea for every infringement of human freedom. It is the argument of tyrants.
William Pitt-
The very rough around the edges, bulletproof DD. 2001 4.7l Automatic Access cab Toyota Tundra. I sometimes fight the urge to ditch it and pick up something more engaging to drive, but I invest too much of my income to justify spending the money on an M5/M3/etc. yet.
Plus it snows, and I have no fear in the winter, no matter how much snow falls. Plus it hauls a loaded car trailer pretty well, and I do a lot of home upgrades and this hauls lots of lumber/materials with ease.
Plus 2, like I said earlier even with 285k miles, and a very obvious history of being severely abused most of its life, this thing is bulletproof. Ice cold winter starts early in the AM don't phase it one bit. Full trust in this vehicle, which is big to me. If anyone is thinking of getting one, do it. Will not regret it.
Still looks pretty good from 20 feet out! I picked up a 13' Tundra this year. It's been great so far. I'd like to keep it for the long run so hopefully it stays as reliable as yours has been.
Still looks pretty good from 20 feet out! I picked up a 13' Tundra this year. It's been great so far. I'd like to keep it for the long run so hopefully it stays as reliable as yours has been.
Thanks! I may upload a pic from the rear and of the bed. That's where the abuse really shows!
This goes without saying, but take good care of it and it'll have your back for quite a while!
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