s50 in an e30 - track application

[jstam]

I'm gearing up for an engine swap in the e30 - if I'm dropping an s50 in, what else should I be doing to the motor while it's out and I have access?

I'm looking for some guidance on modest improvements that will address the reliability, durability etc. for what will be some DD but mostly track use. I'm not looking for huge HP gains (or maybe none). I'm not building the car for a specific class - just reliable HP is what I'm looking for.

I imagine things like baffled oil pan, etc. are key. What else?

[gp.plus]

Make sure you use a sealant like rtv along with the oil pan gasket when you swap pans, don't just rely on the gasket, especially if it's victor reinz. Just clean the motor up real good and maybe put new orings on the injectors. If the rear main seal is not leaking don't mess with it, if you do get the new style that has the white plastic insert to help with installation.

[nrubenstein]

On an S50, change the valve retainers if you're serious about track use. Most S50s were built with weak retainers that are prone to failing, resulting in a dropped valve and a trashed engine.

[markseven]

Metal or composite impellar'd water pump.

Tack weld or safety wire the oil pump nut.

IIRC, the metal thermo housing, too.

Urethane motor and trans mounts

Pusher fan fo sho. Under threshold braking the engine will move a lil.

[alisjack770]

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[Charlie]

Most people will tell you not to play the "while you're in there" game. Just make sure the engine's well sorted and inspect anything else that is broken/may soon break (steering rack, etc) that is easier to access with the engine out.

Who's gonna tell you that?

If the engine is out of the car, do everything. All the seals, fluids, little hoses, plastic intake shit, etc. Hell of a lot easier to do these things while it's on a stand vs stuck in the car.

He's gonna be swapping the oil pan anyway, so definetly go with a baffled part, do the water pump, do all the rear little hoses, get the main seal, etc.

-Charlie

[nando]

vivek = facepalm.jpg

[nrubenstein]

Who's gonna tell you that?

If the engine is out of the car, do everything. All the seals, fluids, little hoses, plastic intake shit, etc. Hell of a lot easier to do these things while it's on a stand vs stuck in the car.

He's gonna be swapping the oil pan anyway, so definetly go with a baffled part, do the water pump, do all the rear little hoses, get the main seal, etc.

-Charlie

If the main seal isn't leaking, don't touch it. If it is, well, it'll probably still leak after you change it, but it will probably be better.

[E30Pedia]

double check the VTEC before installing.

Or even better, triple check it.



Useless post was useless. :|

[ForcedFirebird]

If the main seal isn't leaking, don't touch it. If it is, well, it'll probably still leak after you change it, but it will probably be better.

lol.

Yeah, there are tricks to get them to seal, even though there's a grove worn in the metals, but it's tough dealing with parts that have miles on them.

[Wh33lhop]

On an S50, change the valve retainers if you're serious about track use. Most S50s were built with weak retainers that are prone to failing, resulting in a dropped valve and a trashed engine.

If you have a 9/95 S50 or before they have the old retainers. 10/95 and above have the good ones already.

Unfortunately it is not a particularly trivial job to do in any sense, either. :(

[ForcedFirebird]

If you have a 9/95 S50 or before they have the old retainers. 10/95 and above have the good ones already.

Unfortunately it is not a particularly trivial job to do in any sense, either. :(

It's a pain, but can be done without pulling the head. I have stuffed rope in the spark plug holes, then rotated the engine to hold the valves up, then you can work from the top. When done, rotate the engine back a bit and pull the rope out.

[nrubenstein]

If you have a 9/95 S50 or before they have the old retainers. 10/95 and above have the good ones already.

Unfortunately it is not a particularly trivial job to do in any sense, either. :(

Recently, the general consensus in the racing community has been that the official date may not be correct. Pretty much, if they haven't been changed and you care about the motor, you should change them.

Also, instead of a rope, you can pressurize the cylinders with air to keep the valves closed.

[ForcedFirebird]

Also, instead of a rope, you can pressurize the cylinders with air to keep the valves closed.

That works too, but prefer the rope in case you need to hold one for a length of time. Would suck to lose pressure for whatever reason and watch the valve fall into the chamber.

[robgoesvroom]

vivek = facepalm.jpg