I did some research awile back and found a lot of se30 guys saying bimmerworld's are the best.
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Originally posted by redrocket328 View PostI have had great experiences with my brake cooling ducts when it comes to stopping power on track but havent noticed it to help with the cracking of my rotors.
I run a SpecE30 and end up changing rotors every few weekends.
If you track an E30, you're going to eat up rotors. Luckily, they are cheap. The stock brake setup is damn good at slowing down close to 3000 pounds of German steel from triple digit speeds, but it comes at a price, and that is chewing up rotors.
Don't bother with more expensive rotors, you're just pissin' money away. Most racers just buy the cheap ones, and carry an extra set (at less than $100 for a front pair, it's one of the cheaper spares you probably have for an E30.)1991 325i MT2 Touring (JDM bro)
2016 Ford Flex
2011 Audi A3 - wife's other German car
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I'll just reiterate that these aren't the stock e30 rotors I'm dealing with. These are 2-piece Wilwood rotors. The process to switch rotors on the hat isn't quite as simple as pulling a 1 piece rotor off the hub and chucking it in the trash.
I think the HD Wilwood rotor has a better chance of being worth the investment than something in stock e30 fitment.S50'd
Originally posted by TDE30What is this faggy shit I have happened upon?Originally posted by slammin.e28I can always live in a M3. Can't M3 a house.
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Originally posted by dsm2002 View PostAre these the Wilwood 11.75 x 1.25" 8x7" BCD rotors? Just to let you know there are possible alternatives. PFC, Hawk and AP racing all have rotors in this size. AP racing may not be suitable as the spigot diameter is 6.42" compared to Wilwood's 6.38". I am not sure about the PFCs or, Hawks.
Wilwood's have a reputation for cracking. Some of their pre-bedded versions are better.S50'd
Originally posted by TDE30What is this faggy shit I have happened upon?Originally posted by slammin.e28I can always live in a M3. Can't M3 a house.
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Originally posted by Lof8 View Post^you're probably right. I would just prefer they last even longer. :)
Perhaps just upgrading the rears would be enough? How long are your races? Or is this a hpde car
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now FreeOBD1 M54/M52TU swap as a M50b25
Z4 non powered steering rack fits e30
Euro e46 2005/6 320d 6mt gearbox into E30 with M20 hardy and beck 1985 327s engine
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Current word on the street with the E36 guys is not enough heat can be harder on rotors than too much. What pads are you running?'89 325is S50 Track Montser
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What pads are you running?
What temperatures are your rotors reaching? If you don't know I would suggest putting some temperature indicating paint in the rotors to find out.
You could have a pad compound that is really hard on rotor. Ducting won't help.
You could have rotor rings with "poor" metallurgy. I doubt this is the case with massive. Ducting may or may not help.
Your rotor temps may be too high, as indicated by the temperature paint. In this case ducting may help. I say may because I'm still not convinced of the correlation between rotor cracking and ducting. My understanding is that the cyclic high temperature events cause the cracking and adding ducting will not change the delta.
Your rotor For an S50 swapped e30 10-12hrs of track time may be all you can get. I certainly applaud and understand trying to get more out of your equipment. The past two years I have been racing on a college student budget and needed to push my equipment life to the limit... sometimes not working out for me though haha.
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Are they "cracking" or are the "heat checking?"
10 hours seems pretty poor either way. You don't drag the brakes do you? IE use them much longer than necessary?
I thought I was doing pretty well until a different instructor drove my car with me a few weeks ago, I saw how much further I could compress the braking zone.Need parts now? Need them cheap? steve@blunttech.com
Chief Sales Officer, Midwest Division—Blunt Tech Industries
www.gutenparts.com
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