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Who Sells the Best Brake Duct Plates/Kits?

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    #16
    I did some research awile back and found a lot of se30 guys saying bimmerworld's are the best.

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      #17
      Originally posted by redrocket328 View Post
      I have had great experiences with my brake cooling ducts when it comes to stopping power on track but havent noticed it to help with the cracking of my rotors.

      I run a SpecE30 and end up changing rotors every few weekends.
      This..

      If you track an E30, you're going to eat up rotors. Luckily, they are cheap. The stock brake setup is damn good at slowing down close to 3000 pounds of German steel from triple digit speeds, but it comes at a price, and that is chewing up rotors.

      Don't bother with more expensive rotors, you're just pissin' money away. Most racers just buy the cheap ones, and carry an extra set (at less than $100 for a front pair, it's one of the cheaper spares you probably have for an E30.)
      1991 325i MT2 Touring (JDM bro)
      2016 Ford Flex
      2011 Audi A3 - wife's other German car

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        #18
        Last rotors i bought were like 15$ a piece, dont bother with the expensive stuff. Also Bimmerworld backing plates.
        -Build http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=295277

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          #19
          I'll just reiterate that these aren't the stock e30 rotors I'm dealing with. These are 2-piece Wilwood rotors. The process to switch rotors on the hat isn't quite as simple as pulling a 1 piece rotor off the hub and chucking it in the trash.

          I think the HD Wilwood rotor has a better chance of being worth the investment than something in stock e30 fitment.
          S50'd

          Originally posted by TDE30
          What is this faggy shit I have happened upon?
          Originally posted by slammin.e28
          I can always live in a M3. Can't M3 a house.

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            #20
            Originally posted by dsm2002 View Post
            Are these the Wilwood 11.75 x 1.25" 8x7" BCD rotors? Just to let you know there are possible alternatives. PFC, Hawk and AP racing all have rotors in this size. AP racing may not be suitable as the spigot diameter is 6.42" compared to Wilwood's 6.38". I am not sure about the PFCs or, Hawks.

            Wilwood's have a reputation for cracking. Some of their pre-bedded versions are better.
            I will look into this.
            S50'd

            Originally posted by TDE30
            What is this faggy shit I have happened upon?
            Originally posted by slammin.e28
            I can always live in a M3. Can't M3 a house.

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              #21
              Not sure how Massive Sport Kit gets read as stock brakes.
              Originally posted by priapism
              My girl don't know shit, but she bakes a mean cupcake.
              Originally posted by shameson
              Usually it's best not to know how much money you have into your e30

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                #22
                Getting 10-12 hours track time out of a $60 set of rotors seems pretty good to me. You could always try the HD's and if you find they aren't worth the extra money just switch back.

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                  #23
                  ^you're probably right. I would just prefer they last even longer. :)
                  S50'd

                  Originally posted by TDE30
                  What is this faggy shit I have happened upon?
                  Originally posted by slammin.e28
                  I can always live in a M3. Can't M3 a house.

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                    #24
                    Originally posted by Lof8 View Post
                    ^you're probably right. I would just prefer they last even longer. :)
                    How much weight/power and how large speed differential corners do you have to deal with?

                    Perhaps just upgrading the rears would be enough? How long are your races? Or is this a hpde car





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                    OBD1 M54/M52TU swap as a M50b25

                    Z4 non powered steering rack fits e30



                    Euro e46 2005/6 320d 6mt gearbox into E30 with M20 hardy and beck 1985 327s engine

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                      #25

                      PO had put these on my car.

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                        #26
                        Current word on the street with the E36 guys is not enough heat can be harder on rotors than too much. What pads are you running?
                        '89 325is S50 Track Montser
                        '04 X5 Daily/Tow Vehicle

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                          #27
                          How about water spray like the V8's used to run?

                          heh

                          t
                          now, sometimes I just mess with people. It's more entertaining that way. george graves

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                            #28
                            Oh, and I used the Mason Engineering plates. Shimmed them to get them a little closer,
                            but they fit well and work just fine.

                            t
                            now, sometimes I just mess with people. It's more entertaining that way. george graves

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                              #29
                              What pads are you running?

                              What temperatures are your rotors reaching? If you don't know I would suggest putting some temperature indicating paint in the rotors to find out.

                              You could have a pad compound that is really hard on rotor. Ducting won't help.

                              You could have rotor rings with "poor" metallurgy. I doubt this is the case with massive. Ducting may or may not help.

                              Your rotor temps may be too high, as indicated by the temperature paint. In this case ducting may help. I say may because I'm still not convinced of the correlation between rotor cracking and ducting. My understanding is that the cyclic high temperature events cause the cracking and adding ducting will not change the delta.

                              Your rotor For an S50 swapped e30 10-12hrs of track time may be all you can get. I certainly applaud and understand trying to get more out of your equipment. The past two years I have been racing on a college student budget and needed to push my equipment life to the limit... sometimes not working out for me though haha.

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                                #30
                                Are they "cracking" or are the "heat checking?"

                                10 hours seems pretty poor either way. You don't drag the brakes do you? IE use them much longer than necessary?

                                I thought I was doing pretty well until a different instructor drove my car with me a few weeks ago, I saw how much further I could compress the braking zone.
                                Need parts now? Need them cheap? steve@blunttech.com
                                Chief Sales Officer, Midwest Division—Blunt Tech Industries

                                www.gutenparts.com
                                One stop shopping for NEW, USED and EURO PARTS!

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