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Dirty - no, but if the contact points are fuzzy/black that would create a running and maybe starting issue.
I remember long time ago sanding them down, which cleared up some hesitation and idle problems before buying a new one.
Wish I just went wasted spark.
This I had fuzzy black on my points. It seemed to run better after I cleaned the points.
Soon I will be removing my rear subframe to install sub & trailing arm bushings, and welding in the camber/toe kit. What other service items do you recommend I tackle with the subframe out? What reinforcements do you suggest I weld in there?
Soon I will be removing my rear subframe to install sub & trailing arm bushings, and welding in the camber/toe kit. What other service items do you recommend I tackle with the subframe out? What reinforcements do you suggest I weld in there?
Soon I will be removing my rear subframe to install sub & trailing arm bushings, and welding in the camber/toe kit. What other service items do you recommend I tackle with the subframe out? What reinforcements do you suggest I weld in there?
You can do the weld on trailing-arm reinforcements too from Garagistic. Maybe the SS brake lines located above the subframe that are impossible to replace without lowering the subframe.
I have those x2 SS lines if you'd like to purchase them and hold off on buying all x6 (~$100)
Already did SS lines with the subframe in. It was fun.
The I.E. sway bar kit says with their billet tabs, no welding is needed. Charlie, what did you do for yours?
I have the IE swaybars as well, the rear sway bar mounts are billet and reinforced by design, but the tabs on the trailing arm are not and I'd recommend reinforcing. You can make your own... not hard. Just a small triangle with a hole in the middle
Cool little trinket, as for the battery tray hole...Well we all know e30's get better with age...rust just lightens up the car for max attack in the twisties :rofl:
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