Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

SoCal General Chat

Collapse
This is a sticky topic.
X
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Originally posted by efficient View Post
    Do you guys believe that a dirty distributor cap and rotor will cause a long crank and shut off the car?
    I had that happen when I was m20. Very worn cap and rotor caused long crank and the car died a few times randomly. New cap and rotor did the trick.

    Sent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk
    '89 325i OBD2 S52 BUILD THREAD
    Shadetree30

    Comment


      Anyone going to FYF?
      Current Collection: 1990 325is // 1987 325i Vert // 2003 525i 5spd // 1985 380SL // 1992 Ranger 5spd // 2005 Avalanche // 2024 Honda Grom SP // 2024 Yamaha XSR700 // 2024 Jeep Gladiator Rubicon

      Comment


        Originally posted by ak- View Post
        Dirty - no, but if the contact points are fuzzy/black that would create a running and maybe starting issue.
        I remember long time ago sanding them down, which cleared up some hesitation and idle problems before buying a new one.
        Wish I just went wasted spark.
        This I had fuzzy black on my points. It seemed to run better after I cleaned the points.
        Originally posted by Sh3rpak!ng View Post
        I had that happen when I was m20. Very worn cap and rotor caused long crank and the car died a few times randomly. New cap and rotor did the trick.

        Sent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk
        So far hasn't turned off on me yet.

        Comment


          Make sure if you replace them you buy either Bosch or Bremi. I've had multiple issues/failures using junk parts store caps.

          -NICK

          Comment


            Suspension!

            Soon I will be removing my rear subframe to install sub & trailing arm bushings, and welding in the camber/toe kit. What other service items do you recommend I tackle with the subframe out? What reinforcements do you suggest I weld in there?

            Currently building a badass coffee table
            Random stuff on insta @kevanromero

            Comment


              Originally posted by Chilezen View Post
              Suspension!

              Soon I will be removing my rear subframe to install sub & trailing arm bushings, and welding in the camber/toe kit. What other service items do you recommend I tackle with the subframe out? What reinforcements do you suggest I weld in there?
              Swaybar tabs

              Sent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk
              '89 325i OBD2 S52 BUILD THREAD
              Shadetree30

              Comment


                Originally posted by Chilezen View Post
                Suspension!

                Soon I will be removing my rear subframe to install sub & trailing arm bushings, and welding in the camber/toe kit. What other service items do you recommend I tackle with the subframe out? What reinforcements do you suggest I weld in there?
                You can do the weld on trailing-arm reinforcements too from Garagistic. Maybe the SS brake lines located above the subframe that are impossible to replace without lowering the subframe.
                I have those x2 SS lines if you'd like to purchase them and hold off on buying all x6 (~$100)
                Last edited by ak-; 08-27-2016, 12:28 PM.

                1991 325iS turbo

                Comment


                  Definitely do that brake line above/behind the subframe
                  sigpic

                  Comment


                    Already did SS lines with the subframe in. It was fun.

                    The I.E. sway bar kit says with their billet tabs, no welding is needed. Charlie, what did you do for yours?

                    Currently building a badass coffee table
                    Random stuff on insta @kevanromero

                    Comment


                      Originally posted by Chilezen View Post
                      Already did SS lines with the subframe in. It was fun.

                      The I.E. sway bar kit says with their billet tabs, no welding is needed. Charlie, what did you do for yours?
                      I have the IE swaybars as well, the rear sway bar mounts are billet and reinforced by design, but the tabs on the trailing arm are not and I'd recommend reinforcing. You can make your own... not hard. Just a small triangle with a hole in the middle

                      Sent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk
                      '89 325i OBD2 S52 BUILD THREAD
                      Shadetree30

                      Comment


                        Was swapping batteries today...

                        ...and HELLOOOO



                        Also found this expansion tank of some sort..?





                        realoem shows it goes connected to the battery but it wasn't. Do any of you have this lol
                        FS: Plug n Play Second Trunk Light !
                        My Parts for Sale Thread~

                        x 1984 325e 2.7i ~ CastroMotorsport Built x Daily Driven

                        Comment


                          Vent battery gases out the bottom
                          "I'd probably take the E30 M3 in this case just because I love that little car, and how tanky that inline 6 is." - thecj

                          85 323i M TECH 1 S52 - ALPINEWEISS/SCHWARZE
                          88 M3 - LACHSSILBER/SCHWARZE
                          89 M3 - ALPINEWEISS II/M TECH CLOTH-ALCANTARA
                          91 M TECHNIC CABRIO TURBO - MACAOBLAU/M TECH CLOTH-LEATHER

                          Comment


                            Originally posted by reelizmpro View Post
                            Vent battery gases out the bottom
                            Is it required to have one installed ? My 89 325is didn't have a hole for an expansion tank.
                            FS: Plug n Play Second Trunk Light !
                            My Parts for Sale Thread~

                            x 1984 325e 2.7i ~ CastroMotorsport Built x Daily Driven

                            Comment


                              Well not if u have a sealed agm battery that doesn't vent gases. Otherwise u should use it or the tray will rust.
                              "I'd probably take the E30 M3 in this case just because I love that little car, and how tanky that inline 6 is." - thecj

                              85 323i M TECH 1 S52 - ALPINEWEISS/SCHWARZE
                              88 M3 - LACHSSILBER/SCHWARZE
                              89 M3 - ALPINEWEISS II/M TECH CLOTH-ALCANTARA
                              91 M TECHNIC CABRIO TURBO - MACAOBLAU/M TECH CLOTH-LEATHER

                              Comment


                                Cool little trinket, as for the battery tray hole...Well we all know e30's get better with age...rust just lightens up the car for max attack in the twisties :rofl:

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X