Originally posted by prisonerofdoom83
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Originally posted by Chilezen View PostSo how 'bout those earthquakes, huh?
Woot! Working on some parts from a junkyard trip earlier, whole garage rattling.
That shakealert thing is pretty cool, they did this countdown on tv and we watched our lights start swaying when it hit 0.
Also - Sun Valley had an ‘85 525e, oil pan was there but I wasn’t sure if that’s the one folks need for the 24v swap so left it.
Ezekiel 25:17Current flame: E30 318iS Alpinweiss II slicktop / LSD - Joanne
The old man: 1970 2002 Polaris(ish) slicktop / rat rod - Wallace
The ex: E92 335i 6MT M-Sport - Betty
The heavy: 2001 4Runner SR5 Sport (3rd Gen) - Fred
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I've been watching the news, seems like this could get serious.91' 318is 90' 325is
Originally posted by SonnyBuy the E30s, they ain't gonna last long
E30 can make you, E30 can break you
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“There’s a 5% chance that this could be followed by an even larger quake,” said USGS seismologist Robert Graves, also speaking at a news conference Friday. -latimes.
so i guess the first one was foreshock and this one was the real earthquake and smaller aftershocks might follow. if they got a 7.5 or something that would be crazy.
What's the fake news saying? i don't watch that shit are they saying this could be the end of the world or what.
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Originally posted by LowR3V'in View Post“There’s a 5% chance that this could be followed by an even larger quake,” said USGS seismologist Robert Graves, also speaking at a news conference Friday. -latimes.
so i guess the first one was foreshock and this one was the real earthquake and smaller aftershocks might follow. if they got a 7.5 or something that would be crazy.
What's the fake news saying? i don't watch that shit are they saying this could be the end of the world or what.91' 318is 90' 325is
Originally posted by SonnyBuy the E30s, they ain't gonna last long
E30 can make you, E30 can break you
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Yes, the price tag on today’s Nice Price or Crack Pipe custom E30 could be considered eye watering, but could its custom build and fat turbo make it a real eye opener?
Awesome job BimmerHeads: "Replaced motor with freshly rebuilt M20B25. All work carried out at BimmerHeads in Santa Clarita CA." - CL Ad
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Sup guys, I've been trying to start a turbo m20 build and was wondering if anyone can provide direct input and point me in the right direction.
I know the immediate response is gonna be along the lines of "use the search", but it's not that I can't find any info. It's moreso that there's way too much information. There are so many variations and versions of this build that I'm just overwhelmed when trying to figure out the best approach
Hoping someone can provide some guidance here.
Goals / Notes:
~m20 block ( I know 24v swaps are much easier etc but would like to keep the stock core in the car for sentiment's sake. My build direction has always been OEM+)
~Would like to bump up the displacement slightly (2.7-2.8 range) for lower CR but have seen several build versions where there was contact interference depending on the parts installed
~Aiming for 300-350hp range with the ability to turn up if ever needed. This will be my DD though so I'm not trying to do anything to crazy in terms of power
~Is there a way to maintain the 6500 redline despite an increased displacement?
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Check out KAmotors he's a member here and has a website called ka motors. He sells turbo kits, maybe take a look for inspiration91' 318is 90' 325is
Originally posted by SonnyBuy the E30s, they ain't gonna last long
E30 can make you, E30 can break you
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24v actually wouldn't be easier, that's one of the reasons people prefer to turbo the M20.
~Would like to bump up the displacement slightly (2.7-2.8 range) for lower CR
Easily achievable with the correct crank. Custom pistons are preferred because the lighter the better, but you don't have to bore it out to achieve the larger displacement; it just helps if you do decide. I don't have the answer as to which OEM pistons are the correct ones though.
For the most part, no matter what, this will be an interference engine (as it was designed from the factory), so don't be frightened by that aspect; you'll have to either trust your research or physically assemble the motor and spin it over by hand (with putty inside) to confirm clearance.
Don't lower the C:R. Don't. The engine is fine the way it is, you'll make it much worse off-boost and it won't be worth it. Build the engine around that.
~Aiming for 300-350hp range with the ability to turn up if ever needed. This will be my DD though
Since this is a DD, I wouldn't even consider 350whp. The M20 is pretty tough but there's no need to stress the thing out and compromise driveability. I agree with the KA Motors turbo kit recommendation. Read up on his site.
~Is there a way to maintain the 6500 redline despite an increased displacement?
Upgrade the rocker arms, use an oil cooler, keep up the maintenance.
Build something small, learn it inside and out, get used to it, and then upgrade later. Depends how long you want to keep the car though. The simpler it is, the easier it is to fix when it inevitably breaks.
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Originally posted by LowR3V'in View Posti saw a naked guy running around probably on bath salts in westminster/garden grove and
got hit by a honda going at least 45mph. no news of it from last sunday.
Originally posted by Chilezen View PostI hope the Honda's okay
Originally posted by Chilezen View Post24v actually wouldn't be easier, that's one of the reasons people prefer to turbo the M20.
~Would like to bump up the displacement slightly (2.7-2.8 range) for lower CR
Easily achievable with the correct crank. Custom pistons are preferred because the lighter the better, but you don't have to bore it out to achieve the larger displacement; it just helps if you do decide. I don't have the answer as to which OEM pistons are the correct ones though.
For the most part, no matter what, this will be an interference engine (as it was designed from the factory), so don't be frightened by that aspect; you'll have to either trust your research or physically assemble the motor and spin it over by hand (with putty inside) to confirm clearance.
Don't lower the C:R. Don't. The engine is fine the way it is, you'll make it much worse off-boost and it won't be worth it. Build the engine around that.
~Aiming for 300-350hp range with the ability to turn up if ever needed. This will be my DD though
Since this is a DD, I wouldn't even consider 350whp. The M20 is pretty tough but there's no need to stress the thing out and compromise driveability. I agree with the KA Motors turbo kit recommendation. Read up on his site.
~Is there a way to maintain the 6500 redline despite an increased displacement?
Upgrade the rocker arms, use an oil cooler, keep up the maintenance.
Build something small, learn it inside and out, get used to it, and then upgrade later. Depends how long you want to keep the car though. The simpler it is, the easier it is to fix when it inevitably breaks.@IRON-E30 aka Edwin:D
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