I wonder what a 50k cage would look like
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NOR-CAL General Chat.
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i have "big brakes" as e36/z3 bits are about the same size as e30m3 brakes.
with porterfield r4s pads and no ABS i can lock up my BFG 225s quite easily.
probably not the best investment i've made in my car, but hey, it looks great with e36 susp + e38 weaves.past:
1989 325is (learner shitbox)
1986 325e (turbo dorito)
1991 318ic (5-lug ITB)
1985 323i baur
current:
1995 M3 (suspension, 17x9/255-40, borla)
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Originally posted by Cabriolet View Postno dude. a 50k car build. not a 50k cage
But even than I dont think youd need to blow 50k on your car for a cage and true coils in the back, even if you had some one ells do the work.
It doesnt cost 50k to build an actual e30 race car like a spec e30 car and true rear coils would bolt right into one of those cars no problem. It aint rocket surgery ;)
Fun fact. You can run Mini Couper true coils in the back of a 2002. Bolt right in. From the new Minis not the old ones.sigpic
"The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten."
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2k for a car
9k for coilovers
5k for cage
10k for engine/drive train
5k for paint
1k wheels
2k exhaust
1.5k race seats
1k race interior trim
1k for misc stuff
3k brakes
39k ish range. so maybe not 50k, unless you pay people to do the work for you. or you get an s54 in there.
and before you get all BS not worth derp. keep in mind, if you can dump 10k into a suspension you can afford the rest of the stuff on the list. but chances are you are like the rest of us and cant afford. so there's 0 value for getting anything better than the cheap 2k GC setup.
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NOR-CAL General Chat.
I still don't see why people drop even $5k+ on just coils /struts.
I've driven/rode in both systems (GC and "high end"), and they both handle great; sure the high end was slightly better, but not something that would constitute dropping an extra $4k for
$1k for wheels is being pretty generous; most likely you'd have 2-3 sets valued at at least $700-$1500 each (with tires of course)
Like I've said before: I thought people were crazy when they told me they were $40k+ into their e30. Doing the math myself, I'm surprised they aren't more sunk. So many cool parts, so little cash
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Ok I see. Your talking about rebuilding a car from scratch.
I dont even think many people on this forum would actually need or be able to fully use that suspension. I know I dont come close to touching the potential of my set up and I have maybe 2.5-3k in my suspension.sigpic
"The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten."
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So I got the rear brakes and calipers done, it was quite the bitch as I snapped one of the caliper bolts off into the caliper bracket. But I got another slide bolt from autozone and got it fixed.
Also got the 3.25 LSD in. Yippee. Front brakes and rotors will be done on my next day off.
Also are the only places to adjust the e-brake cables in the car and behind the rear rotors? I've been told there's a way to do it with the rotors still mounted on the car. I derped and didn't adjust it with the rotors off and now it's a little to tight, might run a wee bit as well but I haven't heard anything thus far.
Also my car was missing the clips that go on the outside of the caliper, is this very detrimental?
I've never done brakes before so I'm still learning as I go.
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Originally posted by oliver.r View PostYou don't need the rattle clip, I don't run them in the front because style 5s.
It's relatively quick to take the rotor off and adjust the ebrake
Originally posted by phreshkid View Postcan someone please help Spencer with his brakes?
I don't even know him, but I fear for his life.
even with just the rear rotors and pads i can notice more stopping power.
my old rotors were pretty torched but my pads still had a lot of life.
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