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    Originally posted by Mediumrarechicken View Post
    I bought the MH studs and they were coated in this nasty ass white shit. It was sticky and all in the threads. For spending 100 bucks on 16 studs they shouldn't have shit on them.
    Definitely an anti corrosive, since they probably came over on a slow boat from China.
    '72 2002 pickup | '88 M5 | '89 330is | '89 M3 | '01 Z3M | '11 328xi-t

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      Not that this helps now,
      but I have found that, with Turner studs and 15mm spacers,
      I have to retorque wheels after the brakes warm up.
      Just the first time, but if I've had the
      wheels off, they'll be noticably loose....

      It was worse when I had 2 stacked spacers.

      t
      now, sometimes I just mess with people. It's more entertaining that way. george graves

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        As a habit I always retourque my wheels after the first drive or two. Mostly out of paranoia :P
        '89 Schwarz E30 M3 Cabriolet Build

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          Originally posted by IronJoe View Post
          As a habit I always retourque my wheels after the first drive or two. Mostly out of paranoia :P
          i take the torque wrench with me when i go for the test drive after doing anything with lugnuts

          but shit can come loose really fast at highway speeds and ruin your day.

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            I carry an old school needle type torque wrench with a 17 on it at all times, too easy not to.


            Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
            i love bmws

            Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.

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              I had done a 15 mile run on the wheels the night before, and the studs weren't new or anything, they had all been torqued down before.
              Hank Ahrens
              1984 Alpine Coupe
              1978 911sc

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                Torque wrench in my trunk always. 8mm spacers and after mounting need to torque again after short drive.

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                  My stupid car doesn't fire up after it's been driven, go to the store and the dumbass doesn't fire up. I have spark and smell fuel after I crank it. I've forgotten how much fuel it takes to blow out the spark out of the plugs, but I'm sure the fuel system isn't capable of anything near that.

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                    OK, the car with the rest of the manual swap bits in Spokane was crushed before it ever got to their computer.

                    So, I'm in need of a resurface-able, early (84-85) eta single-mass flywheel, and the pedal box. We have most everything else.

                    We can come get it maybe, or I'll send a self-addressed, stamped envelope and you can mail it to MT.

                    Any out there floating around in your garages?
                    Thanks -

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                      Originally posted by Mediumrarechicken View Post
                      My stupid car doesn't fire up after it's been driven, go to the store and the dumbass doesn't fire up. I have spark and smell fuel after I crank it. I've forgotten how much fuel it takes to blow out the spark out of the plugs, but I'm sure the fuel system isn't capable of anything near that.
                      Fuel pressure regulator, most likely, or a weak/dying fuel pump.
                      '72 2002 pickup | '88 M5 | '89 330is | '89 M3 | '01 Z3M | '11 328xi-t

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                        Or fuel filter


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                          Originally posted by Austin! View Post
                          Fuel pressure regulator, most likely, or a weak/dying fuel pump.
                          Yeah that's what I'm thinking too

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                            ....
                            Last edited by Mediumrarechicken; 08-11-2017, 06:21 PM.

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                              Anyone want to buy a full manual swap?


                              Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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                                Anyone got a CRAP drivers side front fender I can have for FREE and/or even borrow? Got a friend painting a car soon, so I'm sneaking my fender in there and need something temporarily? In summary, CRAP, but FREE! :)

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